This time, the fabric was woven by Kaneta Orimono and the clothes were sewn by Fashion Izumi.
The material can truly be called "phantom cotton."
"Suvin Gold Supreme"
As I wrote in a previous blog, GIZA 45 is one of the best cottons in the world.
The material is exclusive to Europe and cannot be obtained in Japan.
Of course, there are some overseas fabrics that use GIZA 45, but they are not distributed to spinning companies or weaving shops in Japan.
On the other hand, the "Suvin Gold Supreme" we focused on this time is a cotton material that is monopolized by a certain Japanese spinning company, so it is only distributed in Japan.
However, the material is something that is not even made public even in the upstream clothing industry in Japan.
Although it is by far the finest, it is produced in very small quantities.
Such a transcendental specialty cotton.
I first learned about its existence over two years ago, but I never dreamed that I would be able to show off clothes made from such materials to you at our store.
If we were to tackle this issue, we would need a large batch to make it, but Kaneta Orimono, who sympathized with our ideas, bought a large amount of raw materials so that we could clear the high hurdle of producing a large batch. It was given to me.
I'm incredibly grateful.
To that end, we are now able to show you clothes made from this raw material, "Suvin Gold Supreme."
That's why, since it was such a special item, not just anyone could have it sewn.
Today, I would like to introduce the fiber called "Suvin Gold Supreme" and the fabric woven by Kaneta Orimono.
First of all, Subin cotton is a type of cotton that anyone who loves Japanese clothing has seen or heard about.
Among the many varieties of cotton that exist in the world, it ranks among the highest, and from a global perspective, it is a rare species.
In the first place, Suvin is said to be a cotton produced by humans who have self-pollinated and crossed the Sujata variety, which is native to India, and the St. Vincent variety, which is a Sea Island cotton.
Cotton is made from the fluff (cotton balls) of cotton flowers, and the length of the fibers varies depending on the variety, and is divided into the following categories based on the length of the fibers.
・Short fiber cotton (21mm or less)
・Medium fiber cotton (21mm to 28mm)
・Long-staple cotton (28mm~)
・Extra long cotton (35mm~)
It is commonly said that
"Extra-long staple cotton" refers to cotton with the longest fiber length, and among long-staple cotton, it is classified as long-staple cotton that is 35 mm or longer.
Under such circumstances, the Suvin variety is classified as the highest level of "ultra long cotton" among cottons, and is said to be particularly excellent among these.
Also, it seems that it takes a lot of time to grow this Suvin variety, and furthermore, the amount of fiber that can be obtained from a single cotton plant is small, and the number of producers of super long cotton is decreasing year by year.
Well, you can still see it on clothes in a reasonable price range in Japan.
In fact, it is said to be one of the best varieties in the world, and it is said that Japan imports 70% of the world's production.
That's why I watch it so much in Japan.
It doesn't feel special at all anymore. It feels normal.
But, even though Suvin is like that, here's what's important. What I just wrote isn't that important information. lol
Suvin has a "parent".
That is "Suvin Gold", which is said to be the first pick (first pick, second pick).
But you know, Suvin Gold also has parents.
"Suvin Gold Supreme".
Furthermore, and this is very important, all Suvin species...
In other words,
Parent "Suvin Gold Supreme"
Child "Suvin Gold"
In that order, the ``bad traits of the parents'' are inherited. To put it simply.
In other words, after "Suvin Gold Supreme", it will be completed in a degraded manner.
That's why this time, it's serious, serious, ultra, dangerous.
Actually, strictly speaking, the "first" beginning is "Suvin Gold Supreme", which is a combination of the aforementioned Sujata and St. Vincent, which deteriorates to Suvin Gold, and further deteriorates to Suvin. That's how it goes.
When you think about it like this, you start to think that the information on the internet is actually incorrect. It's true that they are related by blood, but the one that crosses into a hybrid is the "Suvin Gold Supreme". That's what it feels like.
The second generation of self-pollinated Suvin Gold Supreme is called Suvin Gold, and the third and subsequent generations are regular Suvin.
Of course it's a recessive gene.
Furthermore, according to Kaneta Orimono, there are other decisions regarding Suvin Gold Supreme and Suvin Gold in addition to this "generational classification."
When cotton grows, cotton balls are formed, and the cotton ball that germinates first in a single cotton plant has the best nutritional supply, and the quality of the first and second balls in the order of germination are superior. It's limited to what you have.
In other words, even if it is the first generation (parent) Suvin Gold Supreme, the third and subsequent cotton balls are classified as just Subin.
That's what this "Suvin Gold Supreme" is like.
Although it is originally from India, it is a raw material approved by the Indian government.
Therefore, this time, we will also display the certificate from the Indian government at the time of sale at the store.
And with that certificate...
Producer: A.Lakshmanan Santhalakshmi Mills India LLP
Harvest year: 2020
I was sent a proof that seemed very strict.
My heart trembles from deep within.
I'm super looking forward to it.
However, this raw material is not the only ingredient.
Kaneta Orimono designed the fabric in an amazing, unique way, and the result was something spectacular.
100% cotton of a quality that has never existed before.
That is this.
What, what, what, this time there are two types of Suvin Gold Supreme fabrics. lol
There are clear differences between the two types of fabrics listed above, and not just in color.
They are "plain weave" and "twill weave".
Plain weave is undyed.
The twill weave is colored.
Both are crazy. Moreover, the touch is completely different.
That's why I created each outfit with a completely different feel. lol
First, let's talk about undyed plain weave.
In the first place, as soon as I found out that Suvin Gold Supreme could be used, I thought that "undyed plain weave" would be better.
Since it is a hyper-special raw material, I thought that plain weave is the best because you can feel its texture the most and can continue to use it for a long time, so I conveyed this to Kaneta Orimono through the brand. Ta.
With that in mind, Kaneta Orimono did everything from the "thread design" onwards.
This is the main reason why it took more than two years from the start.
Mr. Kaneta spent about two years designing the thread.
Repeated "trial spinning" by the spinning company and Mr. Kaneta.
By repeatedly trying, trying, trying, Mr. Kaneta pursued the ideal appearance of the completed fabric, and developed it by pouring all of Kaneta Orimono's know-how to date.
After seeing DJA's ``GIZA 45 count 330'', which our store had previously sold, he set out to create something that would surpass it in Japan, or rather, with ``Kaneta Orimono''.
That's why this fabric is truly wonderful.
Let me explain about this "undyed plain weave" fabric. From here on out, it's my first time writing about this area on my blog, so some people may not be able to understand it, but if you read it carefully and understand it, I'm sure you'll be able to appreciate the wonders of fabrics. lol
First of all, my preference is "no dyeing".
In other words, the color is the same as the material itself.
Kaneta Orimono, who took this into consideration, chose not to include the "gas firing" process, which is normally required to bring out the solidity and luster of such fabrics.
"Gas grilling" involves passing the thread over a flame at high speed to remove any slightly fuzzy fibers from the thread.
However, if you use gas grilling, it will burn and technically the color will change slightly.
However, this makes it less likely that the fibers will become fluffy or shiny, but the company has thoroughly analyzed the number of twists that will maximize the shine of the fibers and minimize the fuzziness. It seems that he has poured almost two years into this project.
Mr. Kaneta thought of the "premises for twisting"...
``The angle of the fibers should be parallel to the thread.''
By doing so, the yarn can maximize its luster.
On top of that, they repeatedly verified that the number of twists when spinning the single yarn , known as ``pre-twisting,'' would best suppress fuzz in order to achieve luster.
The difficult part is that the yarn is twisted more strongly, and the stronger the twist, the less it becomes fluffy, but in this case the characteristics of the "strongly twisted yarn" will prevail, making it difficult to achieve the texture that Suvin Gold Supreme was aiming for.
It is a fiber with the finest fineness in the world.
While taking advantage of the characteristics of the fiber, he searched for just the right seasoning.
The thread that was created in this way is a wonderful thing.
The number of twists depends on the thickness (count) of the thread, so an index called the "twist coefficient" is used.
・Thread for textiles is 3.6 to 4.3
・The thread for knitting is 3.2 to 3.5
・Highly twisted yarn is 6 to 7 or more
Among these indicators, what we arrived at this time was a twist coefficient of 5.0, which does not belong anywhere else.
The yarn thus created is "Subingold Supreme Compact 85 count single yarn."
In most cases, single yarns are twisted in a direction called "Z twist," but as mentioned earlier, spinning single yarns is called "first twist."
Twisting this single yarn into double yarns is called "ply-twisting," but during ply-twisting, Mr. Kaneta was aiming to "make the angle of the fibers parallel to the yarn," so he decided to use Z-twisting. When spinning the fibers that are oriented in that direction into double-stranded yarn through ply twisting, the design was made by calculating how many turns it would take to bring the fibers to an angle parallel to the yarn .
It's already a crazy world.
The final twist is performed in the S direction this time , and how many turns are required to twist the two single yarns, which are originally suitable for Z twist , to make the fibers of the 85 count double yarn parallel to the yarn? This means that we have calculated whether it is possible.
Very professional. lol
And this part seems to be specifically confidential.
Well, I don't think anyone knows. lol
This was a relatively difficult task for Mr. Ota of Kaneta Orimono to say. That's what I was told.
Furthermore, before weaving the finished threads, all textiles go through a process called ``sizing''.
This is a process that allows the thread to pass through the loom as smoothly as possible, making it easier to finish weaving.
In that case, unless it's a large-scale company with thousands of meters of fabric, it seems that the process of ``separating the thread'' for every 1 kg is required.
Basically, unless it's a large lot, the yarn is divided into 1kg units, but Kaneta Orimono was particular about this as well.
It seems that every time you touch the thread, it causes a small amount of damage .
Unless you are an expert, it seems that it is almost unnoticeable, but since fuzz occurs, this time Suvin Gold Supreme has not "divided the thread" to reduce the chance of touching the thread as much as possible. Apparently, they glued it on without any trouble.
There is no machine shop in the industry that has thought this far through.
Because we are a weaving shop that handles this kind of work, I feel that there are things that only Kaneta Orimono can produce.
And the standards for "fabric weaving".
For me, the most appealing thing about Kaneta is the thick, high-density fabric.
However, up until now, Kaneta Orimono has had the impression that when it comes to plain-woven, high-density fabrics, they have woven them using slightly thicker threads.
However, this time, it is thin with an original design of 85 count double thread .
Therefore, in order to achieve Kaneta Orimono's strong touch, they took on the challenge of achieving a high density that exceeded previous limits.
Mr. Ota of Kaneta Orimono says,
``The more densely we weave, the more the performance becomes the opposite of luster and suppleness, but this is what we are most particular about, and we weave at a density that exceeds the previous limits. We believe that this is the point of weaving at our company, which shows how much the charm of fiber shines, and that it can be done anywhere just by using high-quality raw cotton.
Exactly as these words suggest, the fabric is wonderful.
Super high-density plain weave fabric in the same color as the Suvin Gold Supreme material.
Created by Kaneta Orimono with a focus on quality materials and weaving.
A fabric with a transcendent soul was born.
I have never come across a fabric like this before.
The fabric is wonderful.
Through making these clothes, I originally wanted to encounter the scenery.
An undyed plain weave made of cotton that can only be produced by Kaneta Orimono.
I was able to reach the one world I wanted to experience in my clothing life. I feel it through this fabric.
And one more thing.
Actually, at first I was only thinking about the "plain weave" that I introduced earlier.
Me and the designer.
Let's bring out the best parts of this "Suvin Gold Supreme" into clothing. That's why I asked Mr. Kaneta for "undyed high-density plain weave".
But, one day.
The designer we worked with this time said, ``It seems that Mr. Ota of Kaneta Orimono has some fabric that he was making as a prototype without telling us.LOL.''
"It will arrive tomorrow," he said.
There was a phone call.
Three days later, I planned to go to the atelier to discuss the shape of the clothes with the designer.
That day, at the designer's atelier, Kaneta Orimono met us with the fabric he had been making in secret.
The moment I saw this fabric, the moment I touched it...
A shock that made my whole body tremble.
What, what, what? . this is. . .
Things I've never seen or come across in my clothing life.
The incredible shine and softness of the fabric, as well as the astonishing smoothness.
I'm sure this will surprise everyone in the world.
A texture that cannot be achieved without the absolute potential of Suvin Gold Supreme.
However, Kaneta Orimono's technology has been poured into it without hesitation.
yes. Kaneta Orimono created a fabric designed to bring out the best in the Suvin Gold Supreme raw material using Kaneta's know-how, and presented it to the designer and me.
The moment I saw the absolute power of this fabric, I was captivated by Mr. Kaneta's presentation.
Look again. . .
The coloring that Kaneta Orimono made as a prototype, completed as a sample, and showed us was different, but in order to make the best use of this fabric, a certain designer and I decided to create a fabric with tens of thousands of dollars that the designer had. The final color was created by picking out the nuances you were looking for from the colors on the street.
"Amphora" = The color of pottery used in ancient Greece and Rome.
The coloring is a mixture of brown, pink, beige, and other shades.
What I was aiming for was a unique color that would create the mood of antique clothing years after the fabric was washed and used.
And even in the fuzz that occurs when you wash it, it still ``obviously shines''.
I created it with the image of a figure that would make people think, "Huh? What era and what kind of clothes is this??"
Yes, this twill fabric...
It is a fabric that gives off an "amazing shine."
In the first place, the reason why Kaneta Orimono created this kind of twill fabric was because they wanted to show off the performance of Suvin Gold Supreme.
On top of that, we created a fabric that maximizes the performance of this raw material.
The thread is "Svin Gold Supreme Compact 85", which is the same as the plain weave.
However, the thread design is completely different from plain weave.
The "twist coefficient" of the first twist to make a single yarn is apparently 3.04.
As mentioned earlier, the lowest value for knitwear is 3.2, which is even lower.
It's a very swollen thread.
Mr. Kaneta says that it is said that a thread with a coefficient of less than 3 cannot be made into yarn, so he designed the twist coefficient to be the lowest value that would allow it to be spun and maintain strength.
As for the twist, the looser the twist, the softer it is, the lighter it is, and the more it bulges out, making it easier for people to wear it.
However, if the strength and durability of the thread cannot be maintained, it will be a waste of money, so we decided on this value.
Based on the above coefficient of 3.04, this twill weave is also calculated so that the angle of the fibers is the same as the twist direction of the yarn, and is made into double yarns.
In the final twist to make this double yarn, since the first twist (single yarn) is twisted too loosely, the angle of the Z-direction fibers of the single yarn will inevitably become shallower , so the final twist should be done accordingly. It is said to be made of extremely soft twin yarn.
I think everyone can feel this the moment they touch it.
It seems that sweet-twisted yarns are becoming popular in the industry, and the common ones on the market are existing normal-twisted single yarns that are designed to be used anywhere, but are made sweeter only when ply-twisted. It seems that only methods are being used.
However, in such yarns, the angle of the fibers is not parallel to the yarn, so in order to create the best yarn, the number of twists must be adjusted from the previous stage of first twisting.
Although most of the spinning industry uses ready-made yarns, this time we heard from Mr. Kaneta, ``I was very happy to be able to make my own original yarn from pre-twisting.''
Plain weave fabrics were not subjected to "gas firing" because they wanted to achieve the same color as the material itself, but Kaneta Orimono apparently thought that twill fabrics would be dyed, and the twist Since it is a very sweet thread, gas grilling is a must.
During the gas firing, he removed the fuzz from the yarn, and after the gas firing, he repeatedly tried to prevent it from becoming fluffy and avoided touching the yarn.
Of course, they didn't "divide" it into 1kg units, which is done when gluing.
That's great. Whether it's plain weave or twill weave, they put great care into every step of the production process.
The luster, softness, and smoothness of the fabric is overwhelming, but it's not just the delicately twisted threads of this fabric, but the texture of the fabric that is also very interesting.
The fabric is barely transparent.
This design also feels very distinctive.
When choosing clothes on a daily basis, I feel that being see-through or not-see-through is quite important, right? Especially when it comes to clothes for the spring and summer seasons.
There is a theory behind this "transparent/not transparent".
Considering the prerequisites for the thread count used, how many threads can be used to completely cover a certain area without it being transparent?
It seems that there is such a thing.
There seems to be a theory that if you use Kaneta's original thread and create a design that is not see-through, you will be able to create a fabric with overwhelming luster and softness.
Therefore, this twill weave has a structure in which the flat surface is completely covered with "the limit number of threads that cannot be seen through."
However, this does not mean that the dough will be fluffy and thin at all.
I think the finished clothes have a solid feel that comes from deep within the fabric.
Well, I think you'll understand this once you see the real thing.
It's really amazing.
Moreover, this is achieved using a "shuttle loom".
The reason Mr. Kaneta continues to use older shuttle looms is that, as I wrote in a previous blog, shuttle looms have a narrow fabric width.
For this reason, in the mainstream high-speed looms such as air jet looms and rapier looms, the weft threads pass parallel to the fabric, whereas in older shuttle looms, due to the narrow width of the fabric, the weft threads pass diagonally to the fabric. It is said that a shuttle made of weft threads flies.
Because the weft threads pass diagonally, a bulge is created in the weft thread by the time the reed is pushed all the way into the weft thread, and the weft can be woven while maintaining this bulge.
Therefore, when looking at the completed twill fabric, the old shuttle loom was extremely suitable.
The plain weave fabric took about two years to spin, but the twill weave fabric also requires a lot of effort.
From here on, there is a comment from Mr. Ota of Kaneta Orimono, so if you are a super enthusiast, I think it will be interesting to read.
``Initially, I had a lot of trouble deciding between plain weave and twill weave, but once I was able to weave both types.
I couldn't decide on the final weaving, so I dyed it and finished it.
It was Aya. The luster, suppleness, and expression were superior to the plain weave I tried making with the same soft twist.
However, I had a lot of trouble getting through the meridians.
As for the warp threads, I was confused about the fabric design and chose a warp thread that could be used either way, so I felt that the fabric was slightly distorted.
Therefore, I took it off the loom, changed the threading method, and wove it again.
The warp is threaded through three points: a dropper that detects thread breakage, a heddle that opens the warp threads upward and downward, and finally a reed that pushes the weft threads through.
For the past few years, I have been very calculating when it comes to using the reed, and I have been using the reed as consciously as possible.
To put it simply, use a reed with a reed blade spacing that is close to the diameter of the thread, depending on the thread count.
The finer the reed, the better, but if it is finer than the diameter of the thread, the thread will not pass through, but it will not be possible to make a reed that is too fine.
It's like a struggle for balance.
It is the healds that are distorted.
For better or worse, the shuttle loom is a loom with no power, so the number of heddles that can be operated in one frame is limited. The number of heald frames is determined according to the total number of warp threads and the count, but it seems that safety was prioritized, so the number of heald frames was designed with a slightly larger number, and the fabric was slightly distorted due to the use of a large number of heald frames. Although it was a very time-consuming task, I fixed it without hesitation.
This area is something that cannot be seen by people who only design documents, such as industry-specific manufacturer wholesalers.
I think this is a feeling unique to our company as we are able to handle manufacturing and planning in-house.
This time, we aimed for the world's highest gloss, suppleness, and durability.
Two types of fabrics were woven this time.
Plain weave and twill weave fabrics, for example,
When it comes to plain weave, you can enjoy the natural flavor of the material with just a little salt and pepper.
I think that twill weaving means that you should season it well and enjoy it with the best taste. ”
The two types of fabrics mentioned above are "plain weave" and "twill weave", and both of them are made using the Suvin Gold Supreme material at its peak.
I think we have completed something that everyone can look forward to.
Please take a look at the real thing and be blown away.
Using these two types of fabrics, I made four types of clothes.
There is no other designer anywhere who could work together with me to create clothes of this level, and with whom I could work so closely together.
A Japanese designer that I am serious about and feel that I can be proud of to the world.
Well, if you've already seen Fashion Izumi's Mizude-san's Instagram, you'll know. lol
"nonnotte" Mr. Sugihara.
I believe that together with Mr. Sugihara, we were able to create extremely rich clothes.