Today, I would like to introduce Nobuyuki Matsui.
The things I'm going to introduce today are also extremely Nobuyuki Matsui.
Well, there are various brands in the world, but this level of clothing is unique to Mr. Matsui.
You can't make something like this easily.
Well, what I've accumulated so far, what I've cultivated is appearing.
It's that kind of clothes.
Tailored Jacket (Jacquard)
face material _ COTTON 42%, SILK 32%, WOOL 26%
partly material _ COTTON 100%
linning material _CUPRO 100%
this. tailored jacket.
This is a "real" tailored jacket.
Before starting the collection brand "Nobuyuki Matsui".
Mr. Matsui focused on making custom-made clothes.
Face one person and make clothes that match the person's body.
It is exactly the world of tailors.
Well, if anything, it's correct to say that someone who can create clothes "even" in the world of collections.
It seems that Mr. Matsui had many options at that time.
Do you want to continue living in the world of haute couture or start a collection brand?
Or do you want to work as a costume designer?
In other words, it is a way to create costumes for actors to wear on stage and in movies.
It seems that it was time to choose such a thing.
Well, there aren't many people like that.
Currently, only Isabella Stefanelli and Nobuyuki Matsui know about a brand that makes clothes in a six-month season, and who are "designers who can do it themselves" using traditional "hair cores". .
And maybe Jeffrey Bee Small.
Well, in the tailor world it's different.
But those people make a living out of it.
Conversely, I don't think it's about making clothes that match the season (collection). The world of Taylor.
That's why he's a very important person among the designers of brands all over Japan. Mr. Matsui.
And this tailored jacket is based on the collection theme "DROP".
Thread is dropping, isn't it?
Well, if you're interested, I think it's totally okay to have it cut. Originally, it is the darning thread and the core thread of the buttonhole to be cut.
Well, in order for the brand to express this collection, the thread that forms the buttonhole is stretched as it is, and the "state where things are naturally" is messed up, and it is a tailored product made with genuine specifications. It adds essence to the jacket.
It's not like it's serious.
Because it's real.
This tailored jacket.
As a clothing store, I have seen many different types of jackets.
However, when I was in my mid-twenties, when I was just starting out, there was a time when I thought of a jacket that wasn't a tailored jacket as a tailored jacket.
Those were, after all, jackets with tailored collars, lapels, and decent shoulders.
I thought it was a "tailored jacket".
However, I don't know how many years ago, Mr. Matsui from Nobuyuki Matsui put out his most famous "tailored jacket" for the first time in his collection.
I don't remember when it was, but it was in the basement of the Okachimachi building that I used as my atelier at the time.
And the names of the people before and after my appointment are amazing.
They were people everyone knew. Just by chance.
So, I asked Mr. Matsui of Nobuyuki Matsui to teach me what a "tailored jacket" is.
I still remember the feeling of that time vividly.
At that time, the feeling of the jacket on the upper body at the moment I put it on is completely different.
I'm out of my waist. I was so surprised.
What is this? The shock was wriggling inside the jacket that wrapped around my upper body. At that time, our shop didn't look like it does now, and I myself didn't know that kind of clothes.
So, for me, someday I want to be a store that can introduce such things. There was a time when I thought
It was exactly one year ago, during the autumn/winter season, that I purchased the first tailored jacket made by Mr. Matsui of Nobuyuki Matsui and was able to deliver it to the customer.
And this tailored jacket is from the same series.
The "genuine tailored jacket" that I think of is, of course, the design of the pattern.
The height of the top of the shoulder called the sodeyama, the method of attaching the sleeves, the use of the interlining, the shape, the switching, what is used for the invisible inside, and the sewing of the hands.
Of course, this Mr. Matsui's tailored jacket contains everything I think.
Seriously, if there were any other brand in Japan that made something of this level with original fabrics, their own patterns, sleeve heights, original hair cores, and hand-sewn stitches. teach me please.
Of course, if you're just doing that, even Shirot could do it if you put in the time.
But I think the technical level is completely different.
I think this is a very important piece of clothing even in Japan.
Since the clothes are at this level, there is a lot of "blank space" when they are brand new.
Also, although it is heavy, it feels very light.
This is strange.
At first, you will feel the unique feeling of wearing a brand new product that is not yet familiar with your body.
However, the fit and comfort of the clothes change little by little according to the body of the wearer. This is the area that can only be experienced with a jacket that has a "real hair core" and a "stabbing" around the chest and shoulders.
This time, the jacket that we are selling at our store is not made in a factory that divides labor, but is sewn by an old man who has been doing this job for decades and whom Mr. Matsui trusts. .
Tailored jackets made by Nobuyuki Matsui are only made by the craftsmen or Mr. Matsui himself.
When it comes to this level, it's something that no one can make.
As you can see, the buttonhole thread is extended and "dropped".
Of course it opens.
Front 1B. The front darts also have a waist shape, so they exist properly.
The waist shape is not as tight as in Italy.
And this fabric.
According to Mr. Matsui, he will never be able to make a brand again.
problem with the loom.
This is said to be a "Schonherr loom" for weaving wool, but it looks like a "Jacquard Schonherr loom" among Schonherr looms.
Jacquard has a more mass-produced and computer-based image now, but it seems that they are using a rather old loom this time.
Certainly, I have never heard of Schoenherr's jacquard.
You can feel the bulge of the fabric more than regular jacquard fabric. this.
There is a peculiar suppleness that you can definitely feel.
There are bumps and dents, but the fabric itself is flat.
But this definitely has the texture of the thread itself.
Also, it feels luxurious.
So, although the pattern is nostalgic, the fabric itself is extremely luxurious.
This tailored jacket is expensive if you look only at the price, but the quality of the clothes far exceeds that.
The way the hands are put in, the built-in items, the lining, and the fabric are appropriate for the name of the tailored jacket.
I think it's a silly thing that you can't quite see.
Also, yes. The length is a classic length that covers the buttocks, but the sleeves were originally set to be long.
That's why we have shortened the sleeve length by 3cm according to our specifications. I think there are quite a lot of people who apply.
If you are interested, please take a look.
face material _ SPANISH LAMB LEATHER
lining material _CUPRO 100%
As the name suggests, it is a leather jacket.
The leather is "Entrefino" lamb leather.
Don't you sometimes see entréfinorum?
For a good leather jacket.
However, the entréfinorum that Mr. Matsui is using this time has a texture that I have never encountered before.
Of course, it's soft and supple, and the texture of the leather is amazing, but you can feel that the core is firmly present from the depths of the depths of the leather.
Many of the entréfino types I've encountered so far are very soft, but this one still has that characteristic, but it's completely different. In a good way.
In order to use the high-quality side of the leather, the bag has a lot of stitches.
Also, it's the same as the tailored jacket I mentioned earlier, but I changed it so that the back looks very beautiful.
very well done
The front alignment is quite deep.
It has a collar with a lapel.
Blanket stitching on the shoulders.
It's Mr. Matsui's job.
Of course, this is also hand-stitched. It's hand sewn.
As mentioned earlier, there is a switch on the back, but this leather jacket has action pleats to make the movement of the arms as smooth as possible.
Even if it's not as rugged as the riders, I think it's possible to move properly while aiming for the stance of Nobuyuki Matsui.
The front button closure is designed to be fastened with a leather loop as you can see.
Also, the leather rope is "dropped" from the base of the front button.
The arms have a fair amount of forward swing, but it's not the casual-looking leather jacket you see these days.
After all, as I said earlier, I am a designer who creates genuine tailored jackets.
The beautiful appearance that is in that style is strong.
It's a very elegant leather jacket.
By the way, the cuffs are closed with hidden snap buttons.
The lining is an extremely thick lining at the limit of the original cupra 100.
I think this is very reassuring.
I think there are various types of leather jackets out there, but if anything, the world is mostly focused on classic motorcycle jackets.
It seems that the leather quality also made use of the scratches.
We have that kind of thing in our store, but I think of Nobuyuki Matsui's leather jacket as something that exists in a completely different place.
The quality of leather, detailed patterns, and sewing specifications are all included, and I think you will feel a special feeling.
No Collar Jacket
face material _ COTTON 42%, SILK 32%, WOOL 26%
partly material _ COTTON 100%
linning material _CUPRO 100%
And finally this.
This is a jacket that uses the same original Schonherr jacquard fabric as the tailored jacket introduced first.
The shape is very distinctive.
The width of the body and the shape of the arms give a very round impression.
I've never seen clothes with this kind of form, and I've never met them.
As the name suggests, this is a collarless jacket.
The neck has a wonderful round shape and is curvy and symmetrical so that it is beautiful no matter how many times you look at it.
The pattern of Nobuyuki Matsui's clothes is not the same on the left and right.
So, this neck and front match are amazing.
On the front, the original "hair core" that is built into the body and around the shoulders of the tailored jacket.
It is sewn on by a tailor's temporary fixing method.
Not only wool, but also a hair core with horsehair woven into it.
Hand sew it and sew it temporarily.
But look at this.
The waist pocket is a very thin double bead.
The original Schonherr jacquard and hair core are pierced.
Moreover, when the fabric is changed, the sewing specifications of both beads are also changed.
You can instantly sense that it is elaborate just by looking at it.
The opening of the cuffs has a strong curve like the front.
Mr. Matsui's clothes have too complicated patterns and it's really hard to understand.
Well, it's just that it's elaborate.
Switching is often used around the shoulders.
However, I don't feel the thickness of the back stitching due to the switching.
It works and draws high-level outlines.
And this is the inside.
It is a specification of Yabayaba.
Piping on the back of unlined.
Amazing back specifications.
This is also consistent with Nobuyuki Matsui's clothes.
Both the front and back have the color of Nobuyuki Matsui.
I think that many Japanese brands today cannot be identified without the brand name attached to the clothes, and it is inevitable that it will be distributed.
Clothes made by truly talented designers are completely different.
Nobuyuki Matsui's clothes are always Nobuyuki Matsui.
I always handle it, and I think so.
This is very rare.
Take a look at Nobuyuki Matsui.