As I announced a little the other day, the 2020AW season has started in earnest. Starting today.
So, let's start with Nobuyuki Matsui.
Although it is a brand based in Japan, it is a brand that has a very clear theme for each season and collects it.
Nobuyuki Matsui and amachi.
We have developed a collection that perfectly matches the theme of the season.
So, the 2020AW season has a different theme.
It makes me wonder where such a theme comes from.
Because the theme of each season is completely different.
The key to the 2020AW season is the fictitious character "Elliot Recomet".
Elliot is a person who will live in 2120, 100 years from now.
Elliott's occupational pattern and hobbies are important points.
Elliot-kun is a profession involved in AI development.
In other words, a person who faces a computer and creates that system.
Therefore, let alone the smartphone neck of modern people, the posture is abnormally bad due to the extreme "hunchback" due to facing the computer.
I can't help it, because I work hard at work.
My hobby is collecting vintage wear.
The inside of Elliott's closet is Nobuyuki Matsui's collection theme for the 2020AW season.
Also, the name "Elliott Recomet" is key, and the name Recomet came from a real person in France.
He was a person who told the story of the art work, and he was working as an art storyteller.
So Mr. Recomet, who was working as a "teller" to convey the background of the art work. I also mix that "Terror" with Nobuyuki Matsui's specialty "Tailor". Put simply.
Although there are things that look different from the clothes of the brand so far, it is a lineup of clothes that have been put into a lot of work.
Well, this is the first photo.
It's very much about the theme of the season.
old hunting coat
liner_ ORGANIC COTTON 93%, YAK 7%
this coat. It's a great coat.
It's quite a price, so some people may judge it there, but the actual amount is unavoidable.
Our store is also a big outerwear in the 20AW season.
Actually, there was a 300,000 yen ultra-large coat from The CLASIK, so I was going to introduce it triumphantly at a later date, but since you bought it today, I couldn't take a picture and I couldn't introduce it.
The CLASIK coat is the number one item in the brand's second season.
The front is cashmere and the back is from Winton wool SUPER160S, it was wonderful.
I digress, but this coat.
Outer fabric is 100% cotton. It is dyed with persimmon juice.
One of the traditional Japanese dyeing techniques.
This dyeing method is also used for things other than clothing, such as wood for fittings.
Such things are passed down from generation to generation and are treasured. A chest of drawers.
Well, I've never inherited a chest of drawers, so I don't know.
I think that such things may be handed down for 50 or 100 years, but it seems that the color of the wood dyed with persimmon tannin becomes darker year by year.
It seems that the strength is increasing, and the insect repellent, and the waterproof is also increasing.
such traditional techniques. It is a coat with the persimmon tannin dyed on the outer material.
That persimmon tannin. When it comes to how it is dyed, it's a mess.
Especially this fabric this time. It's taking me a lot of time. I feel faint.
It's not chemical dyeing. Because you face nature.
First, unripe persimmons and green persimmons are finely ground and crushed.
Squeeze the juice out of it and collect the blue juice.
put it to bed
By letting it rest, the blue juice will gradually turn brown.
put the dough in there. I'm going to dye it little by little.
And then wash.
After that, it is dried in the sun.
It usually takes more than a whole day just for this work.
One time with this.
I said that this is one time, but there is no way to dye it dark in this one turn.
I think I did that about 15 times.
However, 15 times of dyeing → washing → drying in the sun is also a sample.
Actually, I was told by Mr. Matsui that the sample would be dyed 15 times, but since the sample was seen in February, it looks like it was dyed in the summer.
Isn't it July now? So, if you count backwards and think about it, it means that you dyed it in winter.
In particular, natural dyes are greatly affected by the temperature, so I think you can imagine that it is more difficult to dye in winter than in summer.
Therefore, it seems that this persimmon tannin dyeing took two months longer than originally planned. Just dye it.
How hard is it?
I don't hear much about kakishibu dyeing these days, but it seems like it takes a lot of time and effort.
It is the cloth which was born after such a process.
So, Nobuyuki Matsui's clothes made with this fabric are from now (2020) to 100 years ago (1920),
In other words, it is set as antique clothes made 200 years before Elliott lived (2120).
The theme is 1920s work clothes, so I used persimmon tannin dyeing that gives the fabric a very strong feel.
It looks like it has really aged.
It's a fine twill weave fabric, but the repeated persimmon tannin dyeing gives it a very crisp look. Extremely hard.
This is because persimmon tannin clogs the fabric, and the strength of the fabric is greatly increased due to the characteristics of the dye.
Therefore, it has exceptional hardness. But I think people who like this sort of thing really like it.
If you've ever worn Selvage's crisp rigid jeans, I think you'll be able to imagine something similar.
It's a fabric that made me super excited.
See the proof later.
This coat has darts in multiple places.
Moreover, the knob darts on the surface.
This is a setting that after Elliot got this coat, he put darts in it according to his body shape (very stooped). Therefore, it is a dart that fits well when you wear it with your back rounded.
Commonly known as hunchback darts. However, the darts create a beautiful blank space not only when you wear them as usual, but also when you wear them as usual.
This shows how Mr. Matsui of Nobuyuki Matsui is very good at drawing clothes in tailoring.
Removable liner in cotton and yak wool. Easy to put on and take off with the snap button.
A copper zipper with a pull that looks like jewelry.
This is the lining.
The lining is also piping, and it is a liner specification that makes you doubt your eyes.
Contrary to the outer material, it is a soft liner that is gentle on the skin.
It's enough to install it in winter, warmth.
It's okay if you remove it in spring and autumn.
And this coat. There are some parts where the stitches are visible from the front, such as the darts and some specifications, but most of the stitches are hidden.
It's roughly an 8:2 ratio. Stitches are hidden.
Although it is a specification that can be seen in overseas alchi brands, the stitching is hidden, but the joints are very strong.
I rarely feel that way.
This fabric, this coat has a unique atmosphere.
*Size 2 is sold out.
This is the same old brie cheese dyed with persimmon tannin.
In other words, persimmon juice pants.
This is also a waist tuck with a strange specification. very strange
The back has a cinch.
Knee tucks and darts on flap pockets.
I think these pants are also very strong.
Just, but. That's not all.
Fabrics with such strength are very rare among Japanese brands.
Overseas brands that sew such fabrics with "generous work".
The specifications of Nobuyuki Matsui are
It's very detailed.
This fabric is already difficult to sew.
If you do it normally, the needle will break and it will not progress.
However, he overcomes the obstacles and goes to a new state.
On-parade of piping processing.
Specifications on the back that have been beautifully processed.
And since it is set as a work uniform made in 1920, it is sewn with winding stitches, which is rare for brands.
Well, at that time there was no such thing as piping in workwear.
Very well made pants.
The piping and winding specifications are the same as the previous coat.
Knee darts are back as usual.
The hem is also processed with a chain. I can't see it in this photo.
These are relatively high-waisted pants.
You can see the shape.
There is an atmosphere that makes it hard to believe that these pants are made by a Japanese brand.
At first, the fabric is so hard that you might not even be able to use your pocket.
But these pants.
Whenever I go to see a brand's collection, I go to Mr. Matsui's atelier instead of an exhibition.
So, I really like it. That's why we started selling them in stores from today, but as expected, there was a necessary work before arranging them.
drop into oneself.
I've never met this kind of persimmon tannin before.
These pants are so hard that at first you can hear the fabric rubbing just by walking.
The dyeing was not uniform, and there was already an unevenness like a hit from the beginning.
That's why I couldn't avoid it as a fashion lover, so I wore it anyway.
Then, although it's really unique, every time I put it on for the first time, the part where the hit came out was different.
On the day you put it on, the fabric changes day by day.
I've never seen such fabric before.
Moreover, this fabric will give off a more wonderful atmosphere than when it is brand new.
It has nothing to do with the heat of summer. no longer. Also, yes. Actually, these pants are exclusive to CASANOVA&Co. In extreme terms.
In other words, the samples in the collection were made in the length of foreign models for shooting.
However, Mr. Matsui told me to shorten the length when it became a product. It's long.
However, at that time Mr. Matsui was also wearing these persimmon tannin dyed pants. It had 2 rolls.
The pants Mr. Matsui was wearing were also samples, and they were the first length for overseas use.
When I saw it, I asked Mr. Matsui to make it the same length when making the order for our store.
The reason is that I thought that the strength and compatibility of this fabric would be better if it was rolled up rather than just the right length.
So this is the longest handling in Japan. I have 2 rolls.
But it's so good.
If you don't like it, it's fine if you hem it up.
So, this is what I've been wearing a lot lately.
I washed it once.
However, I like it so much that I wear it quite often.
It was engraved with it.
Gradually, I began to feel the changes that only persimmon tannin dyeing can bring, and I wonder if unevenness appeared, shadows were born, and depth increased.
I always roll 2 rolls, so there are roll-up marks on the hem.
Also, as I mentioned earlier, I felt like I was forced to use the pocket at first, but now it's cool.
I think it's a good analogy to say that I've become softer, or that I've come to listen to what I say. People who like this sort of thing will like it.
But what if there are only 3 sizes left?
Price is also price.
Well, I would appreciate it if you could actually see it.
material _ Deer Skin
At the event with Mr. Matsui held in April, he said that he would use "white tanned leather" as a new material from the 20AW season.
It's tabby shoes.
Overwhelming brilliance like leather diamonds.
Things don't shine. Story of Aura.
Differences in leather quality one by one due to super natural tanning.
Unique leather quality that only white tanned leather has.
We have used Italian leather for tabi shoes so far, but the price here is very different. And limited production.
However, when it comes to price, the price of leather is not even double the price of smooth leather and white tanned leather.
There is a much bigger cost difference, and it is a super rare leather.
When I went to Mr. Matsui's atelier, I heard about the limited number of legs, so I had him secure a few on the spot.
Available in 4 pairs only.
I've talked about white tanned leather many times before, so I'll leave it out.
This season's tabby shoes have no stitching, so you can feel the quality of the leather directly.
Enjoy the leather quality and change that you can't experience with normal leather.
As a way of socializing, it's best to have them wear it anyway. It's shoes.
I think some people are worried about the rain, but it's best to wear them without worrying about anything and feel the wildness of this leather.
It's been tanned for a long time, so the texture is very tight. However, in this regard, I would like you to regard the difference in leather quality of each pair as something unique to each pair, as leather is produced in confrontation with nature.
Please take a look if you like it.
Also, I'll be playing Araki Yuu tomorrow.