Let me introduce you to a new brand today. "Tukir" "Ibis" This brand debuted in the 2021AW season. This is dangerous. It is a brand of Mr. Takka who is a weaver in Aichi prefecture. Bishu production area in Aichi Prefecture, which produces world-famous maison brand woolen fabrics. It is a major production area for woolen fabrics in Japan, and Takka, a weaver, has a base there. The fabric is made by making full use of the weaver's technology, plus the introduction of a new loom and making full use of the tremendous technology. And Mr. Seya from seya., who handles it at our store, collaborated on the design, and it is a brand in the form of a collaboration between Takka and seya. Well, to be honest, I was introduced in advance because I was going to do an exhibition, but I had no intention of handling it. I wasn't expecting much before actually seeing it. But, well, it was also a contact from Mr. Seya's side, and I went to the place where the exhibition was being held with a lighthearted feeling that I should just show my face. Then, I was shocked. My soul trembled, my heart trembled, I shuddered. In a blink of an eye, my heart was glued to my heart and I was immersed in watching and listening to what this Tukir was doing. Time flew by and I pushed my next appointment as hard as I could, and I ended up being significantly late. It's great to be able to introduce you to. To be clear, the fabric is super dangerous. It's super quality. Also, since it was the debut season, the entire lineup of the collection had only three types, but at our store, we narrowed down the order to only one of them. I think it's a lineup that you can feel the maximum of what this brand is doing. Oh yeah. Unisex. Rather, there are both men's and women's. So, if you are reading this blog, please recommend it to your wife or girlfriend. Tukir day dress material _ CASHMERE 54%, WOOL 46% color_UNDYED OFF WHITE size_TYPE 2 First of all. A pullover on a unique neck. And at first glance, the long length gives a nuance that you can't tell when the clothes are from. The fabric is 2/48 wool for the warp. 2/26 cashmere from Inner Mongolia for the weft. The weft cashmere is from Inner Mongolia, which is said to be the best quality in the world. Moreover, the cashmere yarn was collected seriously by Mr. Takka, who is a weaver. The cashmere fiber used is said to be 12 to 14 microns. Boasting the world's No. 1 thinness, "God's fiber" Vicuna's ultra-thin cashmere with momentum approaching 11.5 microns uses the finest cashmere fiber among the finest. Then, a bundle of cashmere fibers is spun with a weft thread of 26th count, which is thicker than the warp wool. This is important. And then this fabric. Both warp and weft are undyed. I touched on Nobuyuki Matsui's light melton fabric yesterday, but the power of non-dyeing is incredible. I think it's the same with human hair, but by dyeing or bleaching it, it's going to be more or less dry. The same can be said for animal fibers, so undyed means that you can feel the maximum potential of the fiber itself. So you can experience not only the warp, but also this wonderful level of cashmere touch. But if that's all it is, it's just clothes using good materials. But that's not the vector that Tukir is pointing at. brand concept. "Something that makes you feel old and enjoys getting old"
"Not only the charm of brand new clothes, but also how clothes change over time. The charm of different expressions after a few years."
"Changes in cloth and clothing over time, based on extensive research"
I don't usually introduce brand concepts, but Tukir is exactly this.
When new, it doesn't shine at all.
That should be true, even though it is such a high-quality material, at the exhibition venue, the laundry samples that Mr. Takka repeatedly washed the fabric were displayed in a row.
In other words, "Use it yourself and raise the material".
All clothes have a hand washing mark OK.
It's clothes with the idea that you wear everything, wash it repeatedly to bring out the potential of the material, and enjoy it for years to come.
That's why the score is low when it's brand new.
By washing it over and over again, the high-quality fabric transforms into an exquisite product.
So, at first, the fabric feels flat and flat.
As mentioned earlier, the warp is undyed wool, and the weft is cashmere yarn that is thicker than the wool.
With the warp as the base, the weft cashmere yarn expands little by little as it is washed, making it a shiromono that transforms into a masterpiece of comfort.
A fabric with a slight natural color unevenness little by little.
And the stitching is fine, or rather fine.
material _ WOOL 63%, SILK 37%
The previous one was a fabric that allows you to enjoy plenty of materials, but there is also this.
This is also very dangerous.
The fabric is "crepe".
A plain weave fabric made by combining single yarns of wool and silk, using a method called "cross-twisting".
It's called kounenshi.
what are you doing with it
Usually, indigo dyeing is done with vegetable fibers such as cotton, isn't it?
Among natural fibers, I think it is very rare to dye animal fibers with indigo.
In particular, I don't think any silk is dyed with indigo.
This is due to the characteristics of the indigo dye and the components of the silk fiber, and this combination is incompatible.
But you did it, Mr. Takka.
Indigo dyeing on silk.
However, this is not what I want to tell you.
There is nothing more to do from there.
Indigo dyed navy blue silk thread under the sun.
A miracle twisted yarn that has been exposed to the sun for two months to naturally fade its color.
two months. 2 months.
Rather than using the indigo dyeing of animal fibers as it is, which is rarely possible, we leave it to nature for two months.
I'm doing something outrageous.
Then, we weave the naturally faded indigo yarn as fabric, but usually weavers say that when weaving the indigo yarn, the color transfers to the loom, It seems to use a special "thing.
However, Mr. Takka didn't have a loom that could be used for indigo.
So it looks like it's new.
very beautiful blue.
I used slightly gray dyed yarn for the warp and miracle indigo faded yarn for the weft.
And after weaving it, it is washed, and the unique unevenness appears due to the difference in shrinkage between wool and silk.
It is unprecedented to create indigo dyeing that has been loved by designers and people involved in clothing all over the world.
This fading indigo type also shines by washing, just like undyed cashmere wool.
This one and the previous one are still very flat and thin when new.
It is so transparent that you can feel it when you wear it.
But that's what this fabric is for.
This is the first undyed cashmere and wool.
Wool on the warp.
The weft is cashmere.
I think you can see that there is a little gap.
And it can be seen that the weft cashmere thread is thicker than the warp thread.
As this is used, the weft thread expands more and more.
It's like a thread blossoming.
As a result, the eyes are gradually clogged, and the touch of the skin changes into a paradise.
When I zoomed in further, it was too thick and only the weft cashmere was visible on the screen.
I feel like the thread is expanding.
Cashmere is already puffy. That's what I'm saying.
The height of this potential is unbelievable.
I haven't seen a fabric with such a stretchy margin lately.
This is faded indigo.
Seriously view refor.
Ordinarily, crepe, which has a kimono-like look, is made by twisting the threads strongly, giving the fabric a slightly strong touch and a crisp texture, but this is different.
Even though it has a feeling of unevenness, it is very soft even though it is crepe.
As you can see, the twisted yarn has a little fluctuation.
Compared to the previous non-stained image, this is a more artistic organization at first.
Like a tug-of-war rope, two single yarns are twisted together to form a single yarn = two-ply yarn, but the sweeter and softer one is wool.
If anything, I think that the thread that is tightly twisted is silk. perhaps.
I haven't checked. But I'm sure it will. This feeling.
The cashmere from earlier gives me a sense of explosive swelling, but this one has the feeling that the strongly twisted silk quietly stands and plumps up.
Natural color written on the tag.
By the way, weaving is also an old loom Schonherr loom.
This loom is the closest in structure to hand weaving, and does not impair the texture of the fibers and threads.
This tag has some bad stuff written on it.
material _ CASHMERE 54%, WOOL 46%
color_UNDYED OFF WHITE
The previous TYPE 2 is for men, no, for Han, and this is for women.
As you can see, the length is longer.
material _ WOOL 63%, SILK 37%
This is also TYPE 1 for ladies.
Both TYPE 1 and TYPE 2 have a deep opening in the neck, but there is a button closure that hooks the loop to the button at the midpoint of the neck.
So it might be a good idea to button it up and let the collar flutter naturally.
TYPE 1 is quite long length.
Worn by Ohno in our store.
I think it's so cute. This TYPE 1.
So, I've been wearing this a lot lately too.
It was hot, so I left it for a while.
I've only washed it 3 times so far, but it still swelled up quite a bit.
After washing, the feeling of relaxation has increased.
It's thicker, and it's already incomparable to a new one, but I think it's completely from now on.
Because the exhibition sample was much more inflated.
It's a woven fabric, but I already wear it like a sweater.
There is a swelling that is different from knitwear.
This is a feeling that can only be experienced here.
Little by little, it became fuzzy, and the translucency I felt at first almost disappeared.
change so much.
Here's what my 3-washed fabric looks like under the microscope.
This is the new one I mentioned earlier.
I think you can see the three-dimensional effect of the thread and the tightness even after washing only 3 times.
This will be completely different after a year or three years.
I could tell that Mr. Takka, who makes this fabric, was thoroughly thinking about it.
I think it's good for those who like things that change positively from a brand new state to a completely different look, texture, and material. this.
This is what I washed.
It's a relatively large size.
But I think it's a bit different from simple fashion oversize.
It's a size balance setting that allows you to enjoy this fabric optimally.
I think that even if you are 180cm, you can get the desired margins.
Already sold out, Araki Yuu's Knickerbockers and PETROSOLAUM's side gore boots.
Well, the material is the material, and the process is also the process, so the price is also the price, but I think that if you go beyond that, you can feel a world that you haven't experienced.
It's lined up in the store from today, but if you like it, please take a look.