As posted on Instagram, there was a second delivery of NEAT's 2020SS.
Cotton Pique: The cotton pique material is, as the name suggests, 100% cotton. If you can see the model in stock on Instagram, that's fine.
Just the other day at our shop, we had NEAT's Mr. Nishino stand at the store under the title of "Inoue and Nishino", and in the current situation, fortunately, I feel that there are people who are paying attention.
But hey, there's a good reason for all the attention. It reflects NEAT's unique trouser aesthetic, and it's not just the silhouette that tends to be often talked about simply with pants. Of course, I think the goodness of the silhouette is a big attraction. The pattern of the pants has not changed since the brand started. Despite being a brand specializing in pants, there is no pattern change. Well, there are some individual differences.
As for the silhouette, I don't think I need to introduce it here, so I'll write about it separately. First appearance, Cotton Pique.
NEAT Cotton Pique
If you like old things like vintage wear and work wear, this fabric will appeal to you. It is characterized by vertical ridges.
The height of the ridges is smaller than that of corduroy. I think there are many people who have a vague understanding of picket fabric, even if they know it. According to the "Textile Dictionary", which I read about 500 million times when I was a student, Pique (France): Pique Thick and sturdy fabric with raised thick ridges and uneven patterns. It is also called "embossed weave". A type of double weave that creates ridges by joining the warp and weft threads together.
Originally it was a combed fabric with horizontal ridges, so the vertical ridges are sometimes called ``vertical pique'' to distinguish them, but now there are many cotton types and vertical ridges, and the ``Bedford cord'' of vertical ridges is also used. All of them are called picket, and there is no strict distinction. Also, wavy, rhombic, and other patterns with ridges are named Art Pique and Fancy Pique.
In other words, pique is a double weave.
A double weave is a thin piece of cloth that is attached to another thin piece of cloth with a binding thread. Strictly speaking, it's not an afterthought, so we weave them together at the same time.
I often hear that "bonding" is not a binding thread, but a bond that feels like it's stuck together, so it's bimyo. In other words, two pieces of fabric (fabric) are one piece of fabric. As the name suggests. So, there was the word "embossed weaving" in the super-excellent dictionary just now, right? When you understand the theory of it, you somehow know about pickets.
This is the fabric table.
I don't know, I don't know, each line (ridge) is there, isn't it? The ridges are made up of diagonal threads. So,
By the way, this is the back side. The front and back of the fabric look different, don't you think? Simply put, the structure of the fabric is different between the front and back.
This is super important.
The appearance of the picket is also involved, and the firmness of the fabric when worn and the feel of the skin are also very involved.
In other words, the front is a twill weave, and the back is a plain weave. So, when you say what's going on,,, Appearance.
MS. MS. It's an abbreviation for microscope.
This photo is an enlargement of the outer material with MS. I know a few things from this.・Density ・Thread type ・Fabric structure etc. In terms of this NEAT cotton picket, it is easy to understand that the outer material is a two-ply twill weave. In the right half of the photo, the thread that looks like a rope is the twill weave, and it is raised as a ridge. On the other hand, I think you can see the thread behind the lens in the left half. Somehow it feels like the thread is missing. This is the characteristic of embossed weaving.
Ignore the difference in brightness in the photo.
This is the back side of the same fabric. It's the side that touches your skin. You can see the thread running in the horizontal direction. This is the weft. By the way, it's a single thread. You can see some vertical warp threads on the right half, but what you can see from this photo is that the back side is plain weave.
Also, can you see that there is a thread in the back of the weft that runs horizontally on the left half? This part is the embossed weave of the twill weave that you saw in the enlarged photo of the table earlier. In other words, when you zoom in, you can see the structure of the fabric more. Then you can theoretically know what kind of characteristics this picket fabric has.
If you think about it simply, if there are ridges on the front, it feels like the back side that touches the skin also has unevenness. What happens if there are unevenness? Aside from whether it is good or bad, in terms of this fabric, the threads are floating on the opposite side of the embossed weave (back side), but the other parts where the warp and weft intersect are very dense and tightly woven. I'm doing it.
Moreover, since the warp threads are two-ply threads and the weave density is high, the ridges inevitably stand firm and the fabric has firmness. However, the back side has a flat texture of plain weave single yarn. That's why the inside is smooth against the skin, while the texture is clearly visible. Also, the twist of the two-ply twill weave on the front looks quite strong, so I think you can feel the luster. I think you'll understand this if you look at the real thing, but I don't think it's much for 100% cotton pants. Well, it actually depends on the degree of post-processing.
It's based on the original story, so it doesn't feel like a super high-end fabric, but it's perfect for daily use. let's go.
Ah, but the hem is probably not in time.
The outline of NEAT's trousers is clearly visible, and the stiff fabric feels nostalgic for those who used to wear vintage pants.
There are many variations, so take a look. Well then.