MOTHER HAND artisan.
This is a knitwear brand created by Mr. and Mrs. Nagai in Kamiyama Town, Tokushima Prefecture, which is located deep in the mountains.
The first brands I bought were "Yamauchi" and "MOTHER HAND artisan."
There are two brands that I think of as the "gods of sewing" and the "gods of sweaters."
Looking back, MOTHER HAND artisan has also had various sweaters made and handled in the past.
This model is made of "75% wool and 25% angora", which is said to be the brand's golden ratio, and the model is made of "fleshed carpet".
I think all of them are amazing.
When we first started handling MOTHER HAND artisan, we were based in Belgium.
Now, as I mentioned earlier, we are making sweaters in Tokushima Prefecture that have not changed, or even improved.
This brand has very special characteristics.
The Nagai couple sometimes make their knits by themselves, but they make full use of what's known as a "home hand flat knitting machine."
I don't know of any other brand that uses a home hand flat knitting machine to make knits.
Although we don't carry it at our store, I often hear that Butner uses an "industrial hand flat knitting machine" in Japan.
However, that's because it's for "industrial use."
The products produced for household use and industrial use are completely different.
In terms of producing in large quantities, industrial machines are overwhelmingly superior, but the advantage of "household" hand flat knitting machines is that, as the name suggests, they were originally created for "household use." It seems that there is a high degree of freedom if used properly.
However, I don't know anyone else who can make full use of it.
Knitwear was originally something that was knitted at home, and from that origin, the home hand flat knitting machine was born as a tool that could be used at home.
However, that was a long time ago, and such tools are no longer manufactured today.
This is because the era of making things at home has changed dramatically to the era of industrial mass production.
Therefore, the machines that can currently produce knitwear are all large machines.
I think more and more innovative things are being born.
However, that's not the only appeal of MOTHER HAND artisan in my opinion.
The use of home-use hand flat knitting machines is just one of the brand's characteristics.
Using this technology and conducting research, we have created a sweater based on a completely different theory from ordinary knitwear.
That's why everything is so different from what's out there in the world.
This impresses me again every time it gets cold.
For me, I think this is an absolutely necessary sweater to live in the cold season.
And this time, our store CASANOVA&CO carries a total of three types of MOTHER HAND artisan sweaters.
One model is called GENT, which is made from 75% wool and 25% angora, which is the origin of the brand.
It's a mid-gauge sweater, and we're currently having it manufactured.
I remember asking for the color to be navy, which is as close to black as possible.
And the remaining two are what I will introduce today.
The material was first introduced by the brand last fall/winter.
This knit is made of a material blend of 62% silk and 38% mohair, giving it a heavy and dignified feel.
Last year, we had Mr. and Mrs. Nagai of MOTHER HAND artisan come to our store to take a look at this knitwear, and the people who visited us at that time knew a little more about the brand than usual. I think I got it.
And this year, there are two types of materials.
However, the shape is the same, only the color is different.
To begin with, this material was specially created by MOTHER HAND artisans using existing threads.
That's surprising though.
Silk is "raw silk".
What's more, it is made from natural silk called "Yasan".
I'm sure some people will be surprised just to hear that it's "raw silk made from wild silkworms."
I was shocked by that alone.
This mohair is super fine kid mohair from South Africa.
This silk and mohair are each made of three single threads and are intertwisted.
In other words, one thread used for knitting is a heavy thread, with a total of 6 threads: 3 silk and 3 mohair.
How warm is it that 62% of winter knits are made of silk?
Mohair knits are cold and prickly...
If you think so, no, no, no.
A crazy knit that doesn't feel uncomfortable at all.
In fact, mohair is said to have many times more heat retention than wool.
Raw silk boasts a high level of moisture absorption.
By combining these two into a heavy knitted fabric, we will bring you a sweater that has become a dangerous territory.
MOTHER HAND artisan
material _ SILK (wild silkworm silk) 62%, SUPER FINE KID MOHAIR 38%
MOTHER HAND artisan
material _ SILK (wild silkworm silk) 62%, SUPER FINE KID MOHAIR 38%
color _ SMOKY HONEY
These two colors that will be developed this time are special in color.
Until last season, I had Mr. Nagai of MOTHER HAND artisan select a color sample from a combination of silk and mohair and have it produced, but this time, Mr. Nagai told me to make it.
``Why don't you make something that Fukuda-kun likes?''
Is it good? ? Something like that.
Therefore, from among the vast range of colors available for silk and mohair, I envisioned the finished product in my head, and with advice from Mr. Nagai, I produced the coloring.
In my mind, I had decided to use two colors this time, so I was thinking of going for one with a dark tone and one with a light coloring.
On top of that, I aimed for something that wasn't outlandish, but had a nuance that I'd never seen before.
In particular, if you look at the color names, you might be able to get an idea, but there is one with the name "CASANOVA BROWN" on it.
Those are the colors that I was searching for, especially within myself.
When Mr. Nagai saw it, he said, ``It really sounds like CASANOVA (name of the store).'' I didn't know that, but apparently there was a song called CASANOVA BROWN, and I played that song as well. He named the color BROWN.
Well, from the beginning I had an image of brown, which is the kind of color I like, so I thought the name Mr. Nagai gave me was perfect, and I like it.
This is a color similar to the purple of the raw silk called PLUM.
The mohair thread is dark brown.
The color was created with the image of tightly packed silk peeking out from behind slightly hairy mohair.
Depending on the angle you look at it, it's purple.
Depending on the angle you look at it, it's brown.
I think this knit has a very unique mood and color scheme.
This is smoky honey.
The name is extremely cute.
However, it is a combination of gold-ish beige-ish silk and silver, or rather light gray-like mohair.
This is a beige or light-colored knit that is common during winter, and it definitely makes you look gentle.
That's why I wanted to choose a color that had that "strength" in it.
From a distance, it looks like oatmeal, but it's completely different.
I think this one also has a color that I've never seen before.
Next, let me introduce you to sweaters.
This time's model is a model called DINANT, and it's a sweater with a comfortable neck.
In the first place, all parts of MOTHER HAND artisan are completely different from normal knit making, so there are extremely few seams.
That's why the neck is also made of a different knitted fabric, but there are no sewing areas on the back either.
Therefore, the area that directly hits the neck is extremely flat.
In addition, the neck part is knitted all the way around and connected to the body.
And the shoulders.
This is a very big feature.
Normally, even when a sweater is laid flat like this, the sleeves from the neck to the armholes do not have the same angle as shown in the photo.
Unlike woven fabrics, knits are made by connecting straight knits.
That's why I think there are almost no sweaters in the world that talk about the material, but the shape.
To begin with, there is no such thing as a "pattern" for sweaters.
Therefore, one of their characteristics is that they can only be differentiated in terms of materials and decorative design.
Well, that's still enough.
However, for those of us who seek even greater comfort in clothing and a tool that connects the body and mind, the shape of the sweater itself is also a very important item.
please look at this photo.
The angle from the neck to the sleeves.
There is such a difference in height.
This difference is more than double that of a regular sweater.
This prevents your shoulders from becoming bulky when worn, and it is designed to create a beautiful outline of your shoulders.
However, it seems that there are very high hurdles to achieving this design.
At MOTHER HAND artisan, Mr. Nagai's wife uses a home hand flat knitting machine to knit the garments, and when knitting around the shoulders, she has to do four things at the same time.
They seem to be able to achieve this specification by doing the above at the same time.
Reduced stitches and increased stitches refer to stitches in knits.
As I said earlier, knits are constructed by connecting one stitch together, but the armholes and neck are each curved in shape, so we made sure to draw their outlines neatly. The number of eyes must be adjusted.
Next, pull it down.
First of all, I don't think there are heavy mohair sweaters out there, but I don't think there are that many.
The reason for this is said to be due to the structure of mohair fibers, which have a tendency for the surface of the fibers to get caught in the knitting machine.
Therefore, it seems to be more productive to design and shape a sweet mohair sweater.
In fact, it is said that mohair is a material that cannot be produced unless it is very elaborately woven.
That's why there aren't many mohair knits that are heavy and warm in the world.
I get the impression that many of them are light and just take advantage of the texture of mohair.
The last thing to consider is height.
This is an adjustment to raise the neck position relative to the armhole. . .
I wonder what it is. It's too technical so I don't understand. lol
Well, it's a sweater that's really tight around the shoulders. If you think so, that's fine.
I think those who own it will feel the benefits.
Next is the body.
The body has a little extra volume at the bust, but curves and tapers towards the hem.
There is plenty of room in the width, but I also used it as an inner layer in the middle of winter last year, and it didn't feel bulky at all when I wore it inside.
Personally, I don't wear loose-fitting outerwear, so I think the width design will be fine for most people.
As for the hem, it has a nice hem width.
Generally speaking, the hem ribs are often used to change the design, but I felt this was much more logical than that.
However, Mr. Nagai, who produces it, seems to have a very hard time, and the only sewing parts of this sweater are the left and right sides of the body and the left and right armholes.
However, the armholes are curved, and even the sides of the body are curved.
Therefore, it seems that everything has to be hand-sewn and linked together.
This amazing sweater...
Apparently, only one piece is produced per day.
It's hard to knit and hard to sew.
This is a "full hand sweater".
There are still some features.
There is no ribbing on the cuffs either.
There are two places on the cuffs where the number of stitches is reduced.
It fits well on the wrist.
If you look at the inside of the sleeve, you will notice that the stitches gradually decrease from the shoulder opening to the cuff.
Towards the middle of the sleeve, the stitches run from both sides towards the center.
With this, the number of eyes is gradually reduced and the width of the cuffs is adjusted to the best balance.
Normal sweaters have seams in this area, but with MOTHER HAND artisan, there are no such seams.
The inside of the sleeves are also a bit flat.
This eliminates the stiffness of the seams, making it really comfortable to wear.
Depending on the viewing angle and location, it looks purple or brown.
And the back.
Amazing armhole linking with hands.
As mentioned earlier, the body and sides are all linked by hand.
By the way, linking is a knitting term used when sewing knitted fabrics together.
Just looking at the back of this place, you can feel that there are so many things packed into it.
Well, I think there are still many things that I haven't written about on this blog, and that I haven't been taught by Mr. Nagai.
That person is amazing.
Ever since I met MOTHER HAND artisan, my concept of knitting has changed drastically, and through Mr. and Mrs. Nagai, my way of thinking about knitting has been radically improved.
The sweaters that the brand makes are Japanese-style "subtraction" clothing, but I think it's amazing that they are equipped with so many different features to make them look like this.
Because it's extremely sharp. This brand.
It's God. God.
That is MOTHER HAND artisan.
Amazing drape on the body.
Height 167cm, weight 51kg, size 2.
These two sizes are unisex sizes.
At our store, we carry 3 sizes: 2, 4, and 6, but the brand has 4 variations: 0, 2, 4, and 6.
This time, I thought about women and asked them to make 0, but Mr. Nagai stopped me.
2 is good for women too. That's it.
For women, a slightly larger size 2 seems to be the best balance.
So, I'm also a size 2, so everyone from women to petite men around 160cm tall are size 2.
4 for those in the 170cm age range.
Size 6 is recommended for those over 180cm.
The shape is characterized by a very wide size range, but of course the size you choose will depend on whether you want to wear a smaller size or a larger size, but please use the above as a guide.
This is CASANOVA BROWN.
Recently, IRIES HM's hat has changed and the jeans he is wearing are Hi Mi Tsu.
This one is also size 2.
MOTHER HAND artisan sweaters can be washed at home as part of regular care, so a hang tag with washing instructions is included this time as well.
Silk mohair knits do not shrink even after washing, so I think it is very easy to choose the right size.
It doesn't pill easily, and since it's made of silk, you don't have to worry about insect bites.If you use it and wash it repeatedly, I think you'll realize the full potential of this sweater.
Seriously, it's a sweater that you'll want to wear in the winter. It's quite warm.
I also put a lot of thought into the colors. lol
If you are interested, I would be happy if you could consider it.