MOTHER HAND artisan sweater


MOTHER HAND artisan was announced.


We will be selling it tomorrow, November 6th (Sunday).




As I mentioned a little in the previous blog, "home hand flat knitting machine".


This is tremendous, tremendous, endless, and distinctive.




When today's grandparents and grandparents were still young.

It was something that sometimes existed in Japanese households during those times.

That is the "household hand flat knitting machine."



Nowadays, there are very few such machines in existence, and even if there are, there are very few people who can actually operate them.



Of course, even if you look around the world, there are very few people who use home hand flat knitting machines to create brands.


There are "industrial" hand flat knitting machines. But it's not for industrial use.

Because it's for home use.

This is important.




Mr. Nagai says that they are doing things that would never be possible for industrial use.

Various things.


It's numbing.

That kind of.



At the same time, we make full use of home hand knitting machines to produce products based on extremely original knitting theory.




Well, I'm not talking about its rarity, but rather the fact that it's a huge benefit to those who get it.



This, I promise.



Because I already have countless pieces of MOTHER HAND artisan knitwear at home.



This is necessary for my wardrobe life.

So, let me tell everyone.




So, let me introduce you.



This time, there are two materials.



One is ultra material which is super paradise.



The other is the golden ratio material, which is the foundation of the entire brand.


Those are two things.



MOTHER HAND artisan MONS - 1


MOTHER HAND artisan
MONS (crew neck)



material_SILK 62%,MOHAIR 38%

color_WHITE

size_2,4,6

MOTHER HAND artisan DINANT BLACK - 1

MOTHER HAND artisan
DINANT (mock neck)



material_SILK 62%,MOHAIR 38%

color_BLACK

size_2,4,6

MOTHER HAND artisan DINANT APPLE - 1


MOTHER HAND artisan
DINANT (mock neck)



material_SILK 62%,MOHAIR 38%

color_APPLE

size_2,4,6




First, this.



A super new material never seen before.



Completely original by MOTHER HAND artisan.



In everyday life, when we think of sweaters, we tend to think of wool or, nowadays, cashmere.


Of course I think that's very good.

However, this is different.



Silk and mohair.



62% silk.

38% mohair.



As for mohair, Turkey, South Africa, and the United States are said to be the three major producing regions of mohair in the world, but it looks like they use super fine kid mohair from South Africa.




And the silk is not the "silk spinning" silk that the brand has used in the spring and summer seasons, but is one step above that.

It is made of "Kito" silk.



And it's not farmed domestic silkworms, but raw silk from wild silkworms.




At this point, it's crazy.





Nowadays, I think most of the silk on the market comes from domestic silkworms, but wild silkworms produced "in nature" are extremely rare.



After all, silk that has been kneaded in nature and created in the wild has more potential than silk that has been artificially protected.




Then, it undergoes a process called "refining" to become "raw silk".




For the first time in my life, I encountered something called "raw silk knitting."



That too at this level.




Well, in the first place, silk is made from the cocoons of silkworms, and there is a lot of information about it, but the silk thread we are talking about is made from "refined" cocoons.




It seems that a lot of people in the fabric and textile industry read this blog, so if I write properly, I use ``fibroin'' which has been refined to remove the ``sericin''.


This is called "raw silk" here. I think it's also called "silk thread."



These fibers are the only long fibers (filaments) among natural fibers.


Silk yarn is made by cutting it into short lengths and spinning it.



Furthermore, a by-product of silk spinning is "silk spun pongee thread".



The silk that is the raw material for this knit is ``dyed'' in its fiber state, so a substance called ``sericin'' has been removed.



When I wore MOTHER HAND artisan's 100 silk spun knit, I was very impressed, but the silk spun yarn is a step above the "raw silk" quality.



The unique fiber properties of silk give it a crisp feel, and it is also said to be very durable.




Mr. Nagai's wife told me that if you pull a single thin thread of silk spinning, it will snap off, but with raw silk, it is so strong that if you pull its fibers, your hand will break. yes.



Well, the smoothness of the silk surface is at a screaming level.



Well, the worst of all. I hope you think so. This knit.

MOTHER HAND artisan DINANT APPLE - 2

This time, I would like to introduce the color APPLE because it is the easiest to understand the structure of the thread.



First, the red color is mohair thread. The whitish thread is raw silk.



And surprisingly, both of those threads are 3PLY with 3 twists.


That is kounen.



In other words, three silk threads and three mohair threads are twisted together to form a thread.



yes. One thread is made up of a total of 6 threads.



Therefore, the thread itself is thick and the knitting structure is very clearly visible.



This thread is MOTHER HAND artisan's original thread.



Raw silk boasts amazing ``hygroscopicity,'' and mohair boasts overwhelming ``warmth retention.'' This knit "moisturizes and keeps warm."



The ``warmth'' you experience from this combination is unmatched by wool. Super surprising. It's seriously so warm.

MOTHER HAND artisan DINANT APPLE - 3

The same goes for the weight of this knitted fabric.



It's considerably heavier than the MOTHER HAND artisan sweaters we've been selling so far.



However, this seems to be unique to MOTHER HAND artisan.




That's because it uses "mohair".


I think you'll understand if you give me some kind of image,

All knits that contain mohair have a ``sweet'' texture, don't they?

All mohair knits are lightweight.




This is a characteristic of the fiber itself, but if you don't knit it carefully, the mohair thread will get caught in the knitting machine.


Therefore, due to its physical properties, only knits with moderate density can be knitted.

What is mohair?




However, that only applies to mass-produced "industrial" machines.



MOTHER HAND artisan is a "household hand flat knitting machine".


If you use a home hand flat knitting machine, you can knit super-dense knits using mohair.

Just,,, with ``force skills''.




Mr. Nagai's wife uses a manual horizontal knitting machine to knit the knits, and after knitting the fabric in two or three rows, she "pulls it by hand."

Then, they proceed with the knitting carefully and carefully, using their "skill and strength" to avoid getting caught in the knitting machine.



That's why this series of sweaters is made from a new material, and apparently you can wear one in one day.

Number of production.

Apparently it takes a lot of physical energy to knit one outfit a day.


My hands are going to be in trouble. .



Moreover, in addition to that, this knit is amazing.



Knitted using MOTHER HAND artisan's original knitting theory.

MOTHER HAND artisan DINANT APPLE - 4


this. This is the shape when expanded.



The width of the armpit and the width of the hem are completely different.



The width is roomy, but the hem width is narrow.



It's not like the ribs are changed, and the fabric doesn't pile up all over the place, so I think you'll find it very advantageous.



I think this makes the pants fit very well.

MOTHER HAND artisan DINANT APPLE - 5


And the "shoulder angle" that falls diagonally, which is normally impossible for sweaters.



If you compare it with your own knitwear, I don't think there are any that have such a steep angle from the neck to the shoulders when laid flat.




Knits are made up of each stitch of knitted fabric connected one by one.


With cut-and-sew, after knitting, the pattern is placed on the fabric, cut, and sewn together, making it possible to create a round shape that matches the pattern.


But sweaters like this don't have to be cut.


In the first place, all the eyes of knitted fabrics are formed "straight".

Then, the number of stitches is increased or decreased in each location as the stitches are knitted.

These are called "increasing" and "reducing".




Since the shape is created by the increase and decrease of the eyes, it is difficult to make a sweater that matches the roundness of the upper body.



That's why I don't think there is a sweater with a steep angle from the neck to the shoulders like in the photo above.

MOTHER HAND artisan DINANT APPLE - 6

This shows the height from the point where the "reduction" of the shoulder begins to the neck.



The far right end of the horizontal axis is the end of the tapered body.



From there, extend the black line horizontally until it meets the edge of the neck, matching the grain of the ground.



This will give you a good idea of ​​the height around your shoulders and neck.




This is the first time I've seen a sweater with such a high neckline from the tapered armholes.

This shoulder area is super dangerous.




It is a knit that is extremely difficult to knit normally, but in order to form the shoulder area, you need to knit these four things: - Increase stitches - Reduce stitches - Pull downwards - Create shoulder height In addition to that, everything has to be done at the same time.



A spectacular process. Well, it's just that when worn, it gives the wearer great benefits.



I don't know of any other sweater that creates the look and outline of the shoulders.

MOTHER HAND artisan DINANT APPLE - 7

That's why, when you lay it flat, mysterious wrinkles appear that I've never seen on knitwear.

MOTHER HAND artisan DINANT APPLE - 8



Even when placed in a natural state, three-dimensional wrinkles appear on the shoulders and armpits.

MOTHER HAND artisan DINANT APPLE - 9


In addition to that, this curve of the body.



I'm glad that people have high expectations for the shape of this sweater.



Take your breath away.

MOTHER HAND artisan DINANT APPLE - 10


And here's a side view of this sweater.



Look at the sleeves.



The shoulder width of the armhole and the width of the cuffs are completely different, aren't they?


This has important elements hidden inside the sleeve.

MOTHER HAND artisan DINANT APPLE - 11



There are "increasing" and "reducing" sections in various parts of this sweater.



MOTHER HAND artisan DINANT APPLE - 12

The eyes are rapidly decreasing from the armhole to the cuff.

However, although the inside of the sleeve of a normal sweater looks like this, there is a "seam" called linking in the part that actually touches the skin.



That's why there is a seam allowance on the inside of the sleeves of most sweaters, creating a loose fit.



However, MOTHER HAND artisan sweater...

MOTHER HAND artisan DINANT APPLE - 13

There is "nothing" inside the sleeve that touches the skin.


This is a super comfortable design made with super techniques.



Whether you wear it over a T-shirt or a tank top, there's nothing to worry about.

The material feels great against the skin, but that's not the only thing.

The sweaters made by Mr. and Mrs. Nagai.



There are no negative things to worry about, and this sweater is comfortable to wear over and over again.

MOTHER HAND artisan DINANT APPLE - 14



There are no ribbed transitions on the neck, cuffs, or hem of the sweater.



This is also one of the characteristics that Mr. and Mrs. Nagai create.



Of course, the edges of the fabric are treated properly to prevent them from fraying, but this causes "curling" which takes advantage of the characteristics of knitted fabric.

MOTHER HAND artisan DINANT APPLE - 15


There are no seams on the back of the neck, cuffs, or hem.

MOTHER HAND artisan DINANT APPLE - 15


MOTHER HAND artisan DINANT APPLE - 16



It is designed to have no "seams" to the utmost.

This is an incredible, amazing thing.




It can only be used for sweaters made with a "home hand flat knitting machine" and not industrially produced.



It's still there. "Sewing".



I'm planning to have my husband, Daisaku Nagai, demonstrate this sweater at the store tomorrow.



The sewing areas are "all hand sewn".

MOTHER HAND artisan DINANT APPLE - 17



This is the back.

MOTHER HAND artisan DINANT APPLE - 18



armhole.

MOTHER HAND artisan DINANT APPLE - 19

this. Can you see it?

MOTHER HAND artisan DINANT APPLE - 20


Body side.



The sewing areas for this sweater are the armholes and the sides of the body.




However, with normal knits, the areas that need to be sewn are straight lines, but this new series is made up of only curved lines.




For straight lines, you can use a tool called a linking sewing machine, but for curved lines, you can't use that tool.



Therefore, everything is hand sewn.





It is a "full hand knit" that is knitted on a hand weft knitting machine and sewn by hand.

This new series.




Moreover, sewing the armholes was extremely difficult.




The reason is that the size of the armholes on the body side and the armholes on the sleeve side are different.





All clothes have larger armholes on the sleeves to allow the shoulders to move, but when it comes to hand-sewn knits, it's extremely difficult.


While counting each stitch in the armholes of the body and sleeves, carefully sew together the large sleeve stitches.




It takes a lot of time and is an endless process.



Mr. Nagai of MOTHER HAND artisan said that full hand knitting is "the world of mathematics".




I'll have you demonstrate this process tomorrow.


This is a very important process for MOTHER HAND artisan knitting.

MOTHER HAND artisan MONS - 2




MOTHER HAND artisan DINANT BLACK - 2

There are three types that use this material.



Raw silk and mohair are the same color, WHITE and BLACK.




Although the thread color is the same, the fibers look different.


Silk is highly reflective and mohair looks matte in comparison.



Even with the same color, there is enough contrast.




As for the coloring, which was named APPLE, as mentioned above, the silk and mohair are yarns of different colors, and because they were intertwisted, I had no idea how the finished product would look.





That's why I wanted to create a sweater that was made from materials that no one had ever experienced before, had an unknown coloring, and that there were no other sweaters in the world that could stand up to the same standards.




Well, the color itself is red, but because of the material, it feels like a super luxurious red.




It may be difficult for everyone to wear it, but since it is a new material for the brand, we aimed to create a sweater that cannot be replaced.

MOTHER HAND artisan DINANT APPLE - 21



And this. I also really like and wear APPLE.


The overall balance is more voluminous than previous MOTHER HAND artisan sweaters.



I'm wearing the smallest size 2.

MOTHER HAND artisan DINANT APPLE - 22



This outline when you raise your arm.


It's very tapered.





I have this width, but surprisingly, I tried wearing a pretty sharp jacket (Yak wool tailored jacket custom made by Yamauchi two years ago) over this knit, and it didn't feel too bulky. .




So, I don't think you need to worry about that at all if you have a voluminous outerwear.




Also, if you're sensitive to cold, I think this will be a great ally for your innerwear in the middle of winter.




Because it has incredible heat retention ability.





Well, normally I should wash what I'm wearing too.

Until it goes on sale, with due diligence. However, this time I couldn't wash it due to family circumstances.




If I came home late at night and woke up my sleeping child, she would get really angry.

seriously.



Always a ninja at home.

Tiptoe.





So, I asked Mr. Nagai what would happen if I washed it.



Then, surprisingly, there was almost no shrinkage.



Originally, after the sweater was completed, Mr. Nagai washed it and finished it with an iron, so it doesn't shrink even after washing.




However, the texture definitely expands when washed.




That's why I'm looking forward to washing it too. during the day.

MOTHER HAND artisan MONS - 3




MOTHER HAND artisan MONS - 4

White crew neck type.

MOTHER HAND artisan DINANT BLACK - 3


MOTHER HAND artisan DINANT BLACK - 4


Mock neck type black.




Some people may have the impression that mohair is prickly, but I don't think this material has anything to do with that.




I think the texture is even better than cashmere.



Well, I think you'll understand once you try it on.


MOTHER HAND artisan GENT - 1


MOTHER HAND artisan
GENT

material _ SUPER FINE WOOL SUPER100s 75%,ANGORA 25%

color_VERDE

fit _ PLUS FIT

size_3,4,5,6




And this.


This is a golden ratio, wool and angora model that is the foundation of all MOTHER HAND artisan.




The size range for this one is different from the silk and mohair ones mentioned earlier.


This time, I set the minimum size to 3 and the maximum size to 6.

The image is S, M, L, XL.

MOTHER HAND artisan GENT - 2



Compared to the previous silk mohair, this one feels thinner.


However, when you wash it, it undergoes a surprising transformation.



This is MOTHER HAND artisan's golden ratio egg.


MOTHER HAND artisan GENT - 3



There are no seams on the back of the neck due to switching. That's why the hit is so flat.

MOTHER HAND artisan GENT - 4


Reduction on the inside of the sleeve.

MOTHER HAND artisan GENT - 5


There are no seams on the inside of the sleeves either.

MOTHER HAND artisan GENT - 6


The hem is also curled.

MOTHER HAND artisan GENT - 7


This one is thinner, so I think it feels more like a cut-and-sew item.


Well, I'm wearing a sweater.




As you wash it, it becomes more and more clogged and feels like it's shrinking, increasing its thickness and ability to retain heat.




I've been introducing GENT on this blog for many years, so I hope you'll take a look there.

MOTHER HAND artisan - 1




MOTHER HAND artisan - 2




MOTHER HAND artisan - 3



All MOTHER HAND artisan sweaters come with a hang tag with washing instructions.




Anyone can wash their clothes properly if they follow these instructions.


Well, when I get to the point where I own as many MOTHER HAND artisans as I do, I end up throwing them in the washing machine.



It's a sweater that changes in a much more positive way when you wash it and use it, rather than when it was new.



I would be happy if you could see it.




I'll be waiting for you tomorrow with Mr. and Mrs. Nagai.

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