Today I'd like to introduce you to Isabella Stafenelli, who I talked about the other day.
I think this is one of the most exquisite clothes in the world.
Clothes that reach the pinnacle of a certain realm of clothing.
The clothes are extremely complex, and there are limits to what I can introduce on my blog, but since the details of the clothes are not often seen in the world, I think it would be good if you could at least know a little bit about them.
Also, as the title of today's blog says, what has been delivered to our store this time is a lineup of clothes for the ``22 Fall/Winter''.
Since we are spending an extraordinary amount of money on clothes, the current delivery period is inevitable, but we are not sure when the next one will be.
I would appreciate it if you could face this time properly.
And I hope you can experience the amazing quality of the clothes.
First of all, this.
It is a hand-knitted knit.
A hand-knit version of a flight jacket with a Jack Kerouac motif.
The collar is hand-knitted, so it has a rounded and voluminous collar.
In my opinion, it looks like an old Cowichan sweater. Impressively.
However, what they are doing is amazing, and the concept of the shape of knits will be blown away.
Close-up of knitted fabric.
One thread made up of three threads.
In other words, the main body is woven with three threads.
However, there are only 4 colors.
white, red, blue, purple.
The color name is "feu".
It seems to mean "flame".
The knitted fabric that makes up this Jack Flight is anything but monotonous.
Body, placket, arms, collar, hem...
It is composed of a wide variety of knitting structures that change in various places.
Of course, this knitted fabric was designed by Isabella.
It is said that the people who knit it are grandmothers from the Aran Islands. lol
Although it is a three-strand knit, the stitches of the knitted fabric are extremely tight.
The weight is perfect, and the other side is not see-through at all.
I think this is a knitted fabric that requires a lot of force when knitting.
However, it is my grandmother who knits this knitted fabric to Isabella's design.
In the case of regular hand-knitted knits, the knitting craftsman usually creates the shape of the knit itself according to the design.
However, this is different.
Grandma makes “panels” of knitted fabric designed by Isabella.
After that, it is Isabella herself who transforms it into clothes.
In other words, what does it mean?
Knit fabrics differ from woven fabrics in that their shape is constructed from each individual stitch.
That's why I end up with "straight" clothes.
You can't curve the eyes of knitted fabric.
However, this hand-knitted knit is by Isabella Stefanelli.
“Panels” with a wide variety of knitted patterns that my grandmother knitted.
Using it, Isabella ``knits and connects'' the pieces.
It's not a matter of "sewing" them together.
We “knit” and connect them.
Isabella Stefanelli's transcendent three-dimensional forms are created by knitting and connecting pieces.
Furthermore, this knit is completely ``no sewing''. (Excluding button attachment.LOL)
In normal knitting, each part is knitted one by one, and then connected using a sewing process called linking.
However, this is not a panel-like knitted fabric that is sewn together.
The form of Isabella Stafenelli's clothes is knitted to create a three-dimensional shape that is all unified.
That's why knits make the human body look so three-dimensional, which is impossible with knits.
That's what Jack Flight is.
It's very difficult to understand in the photo.
If you follow the knitted fabric with your eyes, you will see that the shoulder design is a combination of set-in sleeves and raglan sleeves.
Furthermore, the bottom of the bottom of the armhole.
This part naturally goes inside the body.
This is the first time in my life that I have come across a knit item that has such a "form" when it is hanging.
Thinking about it theoretically, I didn't think something like this could happen.
But there is something that is actually happening right in front of my eyes.
Is this the level of Isabella Stefanelli's knitting? I was reminded of this as if a bullet had been fired into my head.
The front is fully open.
The placket of the body is not in a straight line.
As the knitting structure changes, there are some areas where the overlap becomes slightly deeper, creating an organic curve.
Both the placket and hem have a unique knitting structure.
Is there a traditional British Aran pattern on the sleeves? this.
The left and right sides are the same.
As mentioned earlier, there are no seams.
Well, strictly speaking, there is probably a seam, but is it sewn with the same thread as the main body of the knit?
Attaching the neck collar.
Maybe they are knitted together.
It's all the same thread now, so even if you look at it for tens of minutes or hours, you won't be able to tell.
Even if you follow it with your eyes, the structure of the knitted fabric is constantly changing, and you can't tell why.
This cannot be explained.
This is what makes it such an extremely complex structure.
Grilled buffalo and charred buttons.
As you can see, the thread used to attach the buttons is also made from the same wool as the thread used to knit the main body.
By the way, the buttonholes are not pre-drilled.
Spread out the knitted fabric and make holes. lol
This is unique to Isabella Stefanelli.
Waist pockets on the left and right front.
The pocket opening is made of sturdy knitted fabric.
And inside, you can see something dangerous.
The bag cloth for the pockets is hand-woven by Isabella.
And the way to attach the pocket bag cloth is also very dangerous.
Do you understand?
It is sewn with the same thread as the main body of the knit.
The part where the body and bag cloth are sewn together is a "feu color" thread.
However, the pocket bag cloth itself is sewn together using only the knitted blue thread.
I think this is because the hand-woven fabric has a blue tone.
The back of the pocket bag cloth is a regular bag cloth.
So, if you look here, it's easy to see the color of the sewing thread (strictly speaking, knitting thread).
The thread used to sew the bags together is blue, matching the hand-woven fabric.
Of course, it's hand sewn.
Jack Flight has a lot of volume as a whole because the knitted fabric itself has a lot of volume.
However, as I mentioned earlier, it has a three-dimensional shape that would be unimaginable with knitwear, so I think that the size M that we carry will be worn by everyone from my late 160cm to late 170cm. Masu.
A complex hand-knitted knit that takes a lot of time to understand the knitting pattern no matter where you look.
When you see it in person, you can easily imagine that it will last for many years to come, and I think it's unique to this knit that it has a weight and texture that gives you a tremendous sense of security.
With lavender flowers.
material _ COTTON,LINEN
Next is this.
The form William.
Actually, this is not something that existed in the collection.
These clothes were produced outside the collection by Isabella Stefanelli and shipped to Japan.
When I saw it, I wondered if a sample like this existed? I wondered.
Then, it was made outside of the collection. That's what a Japanese brand official said.
So, although it doesn't have much to do with the collection theme, I was so amazed by its construction that I wanted to carry it, so I decided to purchase it for this fall/winter edition.
As a result, this coat appeared in stores a little earlier than the fall/winter one I'm introducing today.
If you are a regular visitor to the store, you may have seen it before. this.
Also, we know that the materials are cotton and linen, but the detailed percentages of each are unknown.
But I think it's mostly cotton based.
I think it's around 6:4 or 7:3.
The fabric is Italian corduroy.
It is T-dye of "iron mordant".
Normal black tea dyeing produces a soft brown or beige color, but since iron is used as a mordant, this product has a unique "blackness".
A base fabric with very clear corduroy ridges.
As mentioned above, there is the iron mordant T-dye.
As you can see in the photo, the grain of the fabric is vertical, but the neck and placket are decorated with amazing things as usual.
At first glance, for the collar, placket, and pocket openings, it looks like the fabric near the edge of the fabric is used for the body, and the edge of the fabric is used for the placket, but that's not the case.
If you look at the transition areas at the neck and body edges, there are hand-stitched stitches all over them.
Left and right body edges, neck, pocket openings, everything.
The pocket openings are also lined with corduroy-based fabric.
If you look at the placket and the back of the neck, it looks like this.
Switching the ends.
The bodice is sewn with an incredibly strong thread from the German company Mara.
After that, the seams are hand sewn so that the seam allowances are flat.
Furthermore, the corduroy outer material is placed on the back of the neck to make it more flat around the neck.
This area also functions as a ``stand collar'', so it is unique to Isabella Stefanelli who does not use ``interlining'' or ``lining'', but to make the neck stand up, she double-layers corduroy on both sides. I'm doing it.
The installation is all hand sewn.
Do you understand?
This neck collar.
And the back of the pocket opening as well.
To prevent the pocket opening from sagging, the fabric is used vertically on the outside, but horizontally on the back of the opening to prevent it from stretching.
The installation is also hand sewn.
The buttonholes are also hand sewn.
Along with reinforcing cloth.
When you open your arms, the armholes are extremely small compared to the width of the body.
Regarding this William, the size is indicated as 3.
So, in terms of size, it feels like XS or S.
He must be around 160cm tall.
It feels just right to me.
That's why it has very small armholes.
However, the sleeves are large compared to the small armholes.
An incredible amount of sleeve fabric is folded in, creating gathers on the sleeve sides of the shoulders.
This allows the arms to move, creating an amazing form when worn.
Furthermore, hand stitching runs from the armhole to the inside of the pocket. . .
When you look at the back, you can clearly see what kind of stitching it is.
Darts enter from the armhole toward the inside of the pocket.
You can see it by looking at the back, but when you look at it from the front when wearing it, the darts are designed so that the starting point is hidden in the seam allowance of the armhole and the ending point is hidden inside the pocket.
These darts are also dangerous.
A great outline stands out.
Perfect corduroy ridges.
It's a slim, half-length cotton-based coat, but it's packed with amazing things.
Although the sizing is small, this coat promises a wonderful world for petite and slender people.
material _ WOOL 50%,LINEN 20%,SILK 20%,HEMP 10%
Amedeo jacket made of hand-woven fabric designed by Isabella.
Amedeo has become my uniform recently.
The hand-woven fabric.
Since this is a hand-woven garment, unlike the coat I mentioned earlier, the grain of the fabric is used horizontally, so when you consider that aspect, you can say it's the true essence of Isabella Stefanelli.
There are no buttons on the front.
The front is tied and fastened with Isabella's hand-dyed leather strap that runs through the back.
As for the fabric, it is hand-woven, so it comes from an organization designed by Isabella.
As I wrote earlier, this fabric is made up of four types of materials.
As for this fabric, as you can see in the photos below, the fabric is not only used on the side, but also on the inside.
The reason for this was that my mind was drawn to the complex appearance of the back, which seemed to be layered, rather than the surface, where four types of materials and even more types of thread could be clearly seen.
That's why I asked them to bring the extremely complicated back side to the front, and they produced it.
Amedeo's jacket has a lapel on the top collar, but I think it is difficult to process the edge of the lapel.
Because the grain of the ground is different between the upper collar and the body.
However, this is hand-sewn fabric.
I'm wearing machine-woven Amedeo, which is made from the same fabric with piping-like edges.
Do you understand?
The same threads that make up the fabric are "sewn in."
I've never seen these specifications on anyone other than Isabella Stefanelli, so I don't know what the specifications are, but it might be easier to understand if I say that the piping is made from the same thread as the main body.
This is the placket seen from the back.
As I said earlier, the back side is the actual front side, so you can clearly see the texture of the fabric.
Because the fabric is used ``horizontally'', the placket is cut, but the edges of the fabric are treated in a ``different way'' to prevent fraying using the same thread as the main body.
A brand that thoroughly incorporates "appropriate" details in every location.
Even if the lapel and placket have the same "fabric edge treatment," the specifications differ depending on the location.
Isabella Stefanelli is created by making the best specifications for each item.
Waist pockets on both sides of the front.
The opening of this pocket is formed by cutting a slit in the fabric.
However, the construction of the pockets is extremely sturdy.
The pocket opening is made of the same thread as the main body, making it hard.
Also, you can't really tell from the photo, but if you look closely, you'll see that there is a kandome made of the same thread near the tip of the thumb.
And the back.
Amazing pocket structure.
Do you understand?
The pockets are made of the same hand-woven fabric, and they're stuck together flat.
This has a pocket structure that was not available in the hand-woven fabrics for spring and summer that were previously available in stores.
This is the first time I've encountered such a shocking pocket.
Inside the hand-woven Amedeo, a pocket of hand-woven fabric is sewn flat to the body using the threads that make up the hand-woven fabric.
This is an amazing specification for anyone who sees it.
It's attached properly and firmly, so I think it can be used with confidence.
There are no seams on the sides.
Amedeo has a structure in which the switch is sewn flat at the center of the back.
Isabella's hand-dyed leather cord is threaded through it.
The fabric is used horizontally at the hem, so the fabric hem is placed.
This also applies to sleeves.
The neck of the back is made of hand-woven fabric, so the texture changes midway through.
Viewed diagonally from behind, you can already see how the sleeves are tucked inside the body, promising a great shape when worn.
Even if you open the sleeves slightly to the side, they still come out from inside the body.
The body and sleeves are integrated.
This is one important essence that will transport you to the world of Isabella Stefanelli when worn.
No matter how you look at the inside, it has a super flat structure.
Clothes are made in such a way that all processing is exposed without being hidden behind linings.
Even though they are ready-made clothes, anyone can create the shape that Isabella Stefanelli was aiming for as long as the size is right.
On top of that, he has an unusual body familiarity.
material_WOOL 80%,COTTON 20%
This is also a hand-woven fabric from Virginia.
A coat made of thick fabric that makes full use of the width of the fabric.
This is a very impressive Virginia.
A hand-woven fabric designed by Isabella called Starrise.
A wide variety of wool and cotton thicknesses and colors.
Fabrics with extremely intricate designs incorporate borders, stripes, rhombuses, etc. made of these threads.
Approximately 2cm of the same fabric is applied to the back of the neck with the vertical grain of the fabric selvedge, and sewn in by hand using the same thread as the main body so that it protrudes about 3mm from the front. is being processed.
The body is constructed by using a single large piece of fabric horizontally.
The front edge of the body is hand sewn using the same thread as the main body to prevent fraying.
For the sleeves, the fabric is used horizontally.
As with the hem of the body, place the fabric hem on the cuffs to make them flat.
Of course, since the fabric is used horizontally, the hem is also made with fabric hem.
Unsewn, flat hem.
The length of Virginia's coat is determined by the width of the fabric, so you are wearing a single piece of hand-woven fabric.
However, there is a world waiting for you that is very different from wearing a simple flat fabric.
Virginia is astonishing and has an extremely three-dimensional design.
When you unfold the sleeves without stress, they look like they stretch straight out to the side.
There are only three seams on the body that make up this Virginia coat.
Only the shoulder lines of both shoulders, the armholes, and the sleeves made of vertical fabric are shaped like cylinders.
However, there are extremely intricate details packed into just three sewing points.
When worn, the armholes look visually extremely small, and the sleeves perfectly contour to the arms.
A side view that gives you a glimpse of that when you hang it.
The Virginia coat shows off Isabella Stefanelli's ultimate draping and gives the wearer a rich feeling.
Of course, the pockets are made of the same hand-woven fabric and sewn flat, just like the Amedeo, and all the seams that make up the Virginia are also flat.
No matter where you look, there are clothes that will only surprise you.
However, rather than forcing it onto the wearer, all the details gently and softly envelop the wearer without discomfort.
It does not interfere with any thoughts and has a positive effect on the wearer's inner life.
I think that's the way we make clothes at Isabella Stefanelli.
A coat made from British herringbone tweed.
This Charles coat is one of Isabella Stefanelli's coats, with the shoulder line set inward.
As mentioned earlier, Isabella Stefanelli's clothes do not use any ``interlining'' or ``lining,'' but Charles's round upper collar hugs the neck and stands out surprisingly well.
This is the only place I have left. I guess they look for the texture of the fabric and make the upper collar stand up. surely.
If it were a normal grain, I don't think it would be possible without interlining.
The front body has a deep seam and can be worn like this by buttoning up to the neck.
When the collar is pulled up, it looks so loose, but when you fold it back at the specified position, it fits perfectly against your neck.
Very flat collar.
Of course, the buttonholes are also hand sewn.
And, although it has a flap, it has a pocket that I have never seen before.
When you flip the flap, a magnificent world awaits you.
This specification is crazy.
The pocket opening is completely hand-sewn.
Various benefits arise when reinforcing, preventing stretch, wearing, and using.
And the inner pocket itself is sewn directly into the body, just like before.
When I went to his atelier in London, he was sewing pockets for this coat.
Isabella told me, ``This is what you ordered,'' so I had her show it to me.
Well, it took a lot of time to complete one pocket because it involved a lot of hand-sewing steps.
Charles, which we carry at our store, basically uses "split stitching" to join the main body.
This split stitch specification is the first I've seen at Isabella Stefanelli, but it has the longest length, is made of herringbone tweed, and the finished coat falls in a flowing manner, so it has the longest seam allowance. I think I chose split stitching because it gives a soft finish.
When you flip up the cuffs, the edges of which are hand-stitched, a split seam appears.
Very deep center vent.
However, this is not just folding a single piece of fabric.
The vent is made up of multiple pieces of fabric, making it a center vent that I have never seen before.
Reinforced tightly hand-sewn vents.
For the front alignment, I'm using the fabric lengthwise, so I'm using the edge of the fabric.
The buttons are really cool.
Thanks to the split stitching on the back, the shoulders look incredibly flat when worn.
I've never seen anything like this on a court.
It gives a great look to your shoulder line.
The hem is cut off.
This coat has a rich, flowing fabric and comes in a variety of colors, giving it a very elegant look.
This gold color is size S.
I think the appropriate size is for people whose height is around 160cm to early 170cm.
It depends on your physique.
color _ Seppia
This is Charles, similar to the coat from earlier.
It's just different colored fabric.
The specifications are basically the same, just the colors and sizes are different. Should be.
There may be other specifications that I'm not aware of.
Charles itself has a look that is close to the traditional British atmosphere, but this Seppia color gives it a classic look.
However, in reality, the fabric itself has a luxurious feel.
Even though it's such an earthy color, I think each strand of wool is shining from the back.
It's a herringbone tweed, so unlike Amedeo or Virginia, the fabric is vertical.
However, I can clearly see it in this color...
The grain of the ground on the back.
If you look at the center of the back, you can see that the herringbone pattern is integrated into one at the center of the back.
In other words, for the bag, the grain of the fabric is used diagonally.
I think this creates something that is more like a repulsion against gravity than the vertical grain of the ground, creating an extreme drape.
A parade of details that are rarely seen on other clothes.
This is clothing that you can learn from in your life, spiritually, academically, and culturally.
I think that is what Isabella creates.
Because of this, the hurdles to getting your hands on it may be high.
However, I think there's something about these clothes that you can always feel every time you go out wearing them.
Isabella has dedicated most of her life to making clothes.
As I wrote in my blog the other day, these clothes are very much about the designer himself.
Due to the physical production numbers of each piece, it is not something that everyone can wear, but I believe that there is definitely a value and reason to wear Isabella Stefanelli's clothes. Masu.
With this delivery, we have a year's worth of supplies for our store.
The season doesn't matter anymore, but if you find something that fits you, try it.
It's really a wonderful outfit.