Today, I would like to introduce you to EGRETIQUE pants.
There are two types: shorts for the hot and humid summer, and 100% wool trousers that can be used all year round.
EGRETIQUE is a brand from Yamaei Keori, a company located in Aichi Prefecture that weaves fabrics from various brands that we carry at our store.
In other words, it is a pants brand produced by a weaver with that name on its back.
I'm sure I'll be able to introduce a lot of things about Yamaei Keori soon, so I'll leave it for today and introduce two types of pants this time.
PLAIN LINEN SHORTS
First of all, this.
Although the name says "PLAIN LINEN", it does not mean "ordinary linen". not at all.
"PLAIN WEAVE" means "plain weave" in English, so it means "plain weave linen".
These shorts are made of 100% linen, which is completely out of the ordinary and extremely high quality.
A distinctive texture that can be seen even in photos.
These shorts are made by Yamaei Keori using linen, which is essential for summer in Japan, and are made with a very high quality fabric.
I think you'll see more linen fabrics in the spring and summer months, but I'm looking for linen that doesn't have a rough, rustic look, and on top of that, it doesn't look too luxurious.
We are a weaving shop that can make both crude and luxurious linen fabrics.
Because I understand and have created both, I am able to create something that is neither.
You can clearly see the texture of the fabric on the surface, but the thread itself is originally quite thin.
Some fabrics such as linen canvas are woven using "single yarn" thick linen thread, but this is not the case.
Uses "double thread".
Made of double linen yarn, it has a tight density, a textured surface, a shine that shines from the yarn, and a natural unevenness in the fiber properties.
And the dyeing called NAVY is not fabric dyeing but "thread dyeing".
Generally speaking, linen is dyed at the fabric stage or finished product, but this is a weaving shop that weaves special fabrics in woolen producing areas.
Like high quality worsted wool, it is yarn dyed.
That's why we achieved this texture.
These are dangerous shorts.
No matter how much I use it, there is no cheap color fading, and the more I use it, the more I can appreciate Yamaei's high level of quality.
Well, if you look at the photo, I think you'll get a sense of the charm of the fabric.
The waist is designed with elastic.
This is also the current common detail of EGRETIQUE.
There is a zipper on the front, so you can open and close it from there, but it will not open in the front.
Also, the elastic waistband doesn't stretch very easily, so there isn't much expansion or contraction.
Therefore, when putting on and taking off, I think it's best to choose a size that will slightly snag on your butt, and then choose a waist size that will fit just right.
But, for example, even if you choose the perfect size for your waist, the elastic material will allow it to stretch a little even when you eat a full meal, so I don't think you'll feel that tight.
The texture of the fabric is well-defined, yet has a high density that gives it a crackling feel.
There is one loop on the waistband.
As you can see, the pants don't have a lot of detail, but this is a brand that competes with the high quality of the fabric.
I don't have any photos of me wearing it, but in terms of length, it will probably fall just above the knee, or maybe just above the knee for some people.
Since they are about that length, they are not thin, but they are standard shorts that older men can often wear in the summer.
Square patch pocket.
As for the feel of the fabric, as mentioned earlier, it is made of twin threads and has quite a density, so it is not flimsy and thin.
As you use it, the wrinkles will not look like they've been snapped, but instead will have big, rounded, characteristic wrinkles.
This change in fabric is unique to high-quality linen fabric.
I don't think I've ever seen linen like this recently.
Of course, washing is also OK.
It has a high density and hardly shrinks even after washing. Mr. Yamada of Sanei Keori says that this fabric was developed about a year ago, and it is extremely stable not only when new, but even after continued use.
I think it will be a very strong ally during times when the scorching sun is pouring down.
Please experience this quality linen fabric that Yamaei Keori is proud of.
POPLIN WIDE TROUSER
100% wool pants. The color is navy.
I think you can find 100% wool NAVY pants anywhere, but these are unique to EGRETIQUE.
As the name suggests, the fabric is "POPLIN".
Poplin is often heard of as a 100% cotton shirt, but it is a plain weave fabric.
Cotton poplin, similar to shirt fabric, is generally made from thin threads and is thin and airy.
But this is 100 wool.
As for what kind of fabric it is, it is a plain weave structure like the linen shorts mentioned earlier.
However, this fabric has an extremely high warp density compared to the plain weave.
That is Yamaei Keori's "wool poplin".
I think most of NAVY's wool pants are made from a twill weave called "wool gabardine."
That's why slacks are generally made of fabric that has a strong loose feel.
But this is completely different.
The warp is "extremely dense" and "plain weave".
The 100% wool plain weave gives the fabric a firmer feel compared to twill gabardine.
However, while the fabric has a firmness to it, it also has an overwhelming warp density that creates drape.
The texture of the fabric is completely different from other 100% wool, and everyone can instantly feel it the moment they touch it.
This is unique to Yamaei Keori's wool poplin.
This is because the looms used by Yamaei Keori are amazing.
"Double-ended low-speed rapier loom".
This is dangerous.
Over the past few years, I've been to several weaving shops myself, and they're all of the highest quality weaving shops in Japan.
It is said that the structure is closest to handloom.
For plant fibers such as cotton, use a shuttle loom.
For animal fibers such as wool, use the Schonherr loom.
I thought this shuttle and Schonherr's oldest loom were the slowest.
And then, it wasn't.
Surprisingly, the double-ended low-speed rapier loom used by Yamaei Keori is by far the slowest loom I've ever seen.
This surprised me.
When I first saw it, I let out an "eh" sound.
It's extremely slow. That's it.
As a result, the texture of the fabric, the threads that make it up, and the swell of each individual thread are wonderful.
This allows raw materials to be utilized to an extraordinary level.
So, in addition to NAVY, which we carry at our store, the brand also had GREEN and bright-toned BROWN.
We want you to experience the texture of this fabric with the most authentic "NAVY Wool 100", which is available only at NAVY.
Enjoy the difference from other NAVY 100 wool pants.
The texture of the fabric is so fine that you can't really tell from the photo, but when you actually hold it in your hands, the difference is obvious.
By the way, the hem is semi-finished.
Therefore, hemming is necessary.
When it comes to the shape of the pants, there are only wide shapes that take advantage of the texture of this fabric.
On the brand side, this is only available in wide pants in order to take advantage of the characteristics of the fabric.
The specifications around the waist are similar to the previous shorts, with a zipper, but an elastic waistband that prevents the front from opening.
The previous pair of shorts had square patch pockets, but these have pockets on both sides.
The back is only half-lined in the front.
These pants are intended to be worn all year round.
The pocket bag cloth is cotton, but the backs of the knees are cupro.
Comes with a drawcord that feels quite heavy.
I think NAVY's 100% wool pants are authentic and belong to a genre that many people own, but this time, I would like you to experience something completely different, even though it looks in that category. Teru.
This is a fabric characteristic unique to Yamaei Keori.
Please take a look.