I am happy to introduce these things to you.
As the title suggests, this is a "real", "real" tailored jacket.
In today's world, I think that the names and classifications of clothes that have a history long before we were born have become complicated, but many things and words have become ambiguous.
One of them is the word "tailor's tailoring".
Nowadays, it's no longer taken for granted that it's used as a product slogan, and even things that aren't are said to be that way.
I've always felt that way, and our store also started working with world-class creators, and by encountering "genuine" clothes and things in their fashion,
By touching the "genuine", I truly believe that I can't lie to myself or my customers.
Therefore, these days, it is a word that is only used for clothes that are really like that.
"Tailor".
Well, that's why it's important not to say "good clothes", but what you aim to create.
For example, at our store, the clothes of brands such as Araki Yuu and Yamauchi that generously put their hands and time into making their clothes are inherently wonderful.
However, when it comes to Araki Yuu, the essence is included in the details.
Well, the word "tailor" is flooding the world.
There are so many things that are easily called "tailor's tailoring" just for tailored collar jackets, both retailers and brands, but if that's true, there are so many craftsmen in Japan. is! I'm surprised, and I think it's completely a volunteer activity price even if I think about it in terms of price.
I think it's better to look at this first and then say that.
This is the "genuine".
A true tailored jacket.
Nobuyuki Matsui.
Nobuyuki Matsui
Tailored jacket
face material _ WOOL 90%, SILK 10%
linning material _CUPRO 100%
color_NAVY
size _ 2 (CASANOVA&CO limited sizing)
note _ Sashimi
price_ contact us
*Sold out
In the first place, Mr. Matsui of Nobuyuki Matsui makes clothes based on the theme of the season as a collection, and we also select and handle that lineup every season.
But Mr. Matsui doesn't stop there.
This is the essence of being a designer.
A designer who also has skills as a "tailor" craftsman.
Designers with such techniques are rare in the world.
And you can weave the fabric yourself using a loom.
In that case, I think there are only as many designers in the world as can be counted on two hands.
It's such a world class and special designer.
I already knew that Mr. Matsui was making clothes like this, and depending on the season, depending on the collection, there are jackets like this that have an art piece aspect.
But I've never dealt with it before.
However, someday, I wanted to make sure that the customers who see our clothes on a daily basis would come into contact with things from "this kind of world".
And this time, it's a reality.
However, when it comes to clothes like this, it's not something that anyone can make.
As for the options for production, you can ask Mr. Matsui, the designer of Nobuyuki Matsui, or you can have a tailor in his 60s who Mr. Matsui trusts make it.
Mr. Matsui also creates collections and works on clothes like this, but there are various time constraints such as presenting collections at Rakuten Fashion Week (Tokyo Fashion Week), so if Mr. Matsui is this person. I decided to ask Mr. Tailor to produce it.
But the coronavirus that spreads all over the world.
The 60 s craftsman is infected.
And it seems to have gotten worse.
From what I heard from Mr. Matsui at that time, his condition worsened until he was taken to the intensive care unit.
For me, of course, I can only pray for his recovery, and that is the only way I can do it.
But then recovered nicely.
And return.
It was a very happy event.
Tailored jackets that the skills of the tailor's craftsmen have been poured into.
A jacket that doesn't belong to anyone yet has only new margins.
This jacket has an incredible potential to fill that gap, or rather to accept its owner.
Most parts are hand sewn.
Not only the parts that make it soft to wear, but also the details that affect the appearance of the tailored jacket are all "hand-stitched".
On the other hand, machine sewing (machine sewing) is used in places where high durability is required without adversely affecting comfort.
Tailored jacket made in that way.
Because it is a true design, of course, the position of the sleeves is higher than the body, and the sleeve height is designed to make the sleeves appear rounded.
A firm shoulder pad is also included.
The sleeve height is the same as the suit.
The waist has a switch and darts for a beautiful shape.
The lapel has hand-stitched stars to prevent the stitches from appearing as much as possible.
Of course, the star is attached to the back of the neck.
It goes all the way to the hem of the front edge.
Of course, everything from the front body to the lapel and the back body of the shoulder is "made with real hair core".
In general, hair cores are never included in cheap jackets.
Normally, a fabric with an adhesive called fusible core is attached to the outer material.
But this is different.
Hair core, and moreover, sashimi.
What do you mean,
There is a shirt like this in the Nobuyuki Matsui collection.
Mr. Matsui, whose roots are in tailoring, always attaches great importance to the inner structure of clothes, and this shirt reveals the inner structure.
It is the "hair core" that looks beige.
It is made from woven wool and horse hair and has a firm texture.
Then, it is hand-stitched to the outer fabric in the shape of a katakana letter.
This is the "Hasashi" style of the "hair core".
This shirt has only one row of sashimi, but the tailored jacket introduced here has multiple rows of sashimi on the inside.
Moreover,
Like this from around the shoulders to the back.
This shirt has a design that is sewn directly onto the outer fabric with the motif of the invisible inner structure when making a tailored jacket made with a fur core.
Mr. Matsui thinks that through this shirt, he wants people to know the work of a real tailor and the internal structure of clothes.
Therefore, it would be nice if you could think of this tailored jacket as a version of the lapels, the front body down to the chest, and all the internal structures around the shoulders, which have a lot of stabs in the shirt I mentioned earlier.
If you zoom in on the back of the lapel, I think there are small dots that you can see.
The photos make it look like there are very few. smile
All of this is proof of sashimi.
And what are the benefits of this?
First of all, compared to a jacket with a fusible interlining, the feeling of the jacket riding on the shoulders and snuggling up to the chest when worn is markedly, exceptionally, completely different.
Even though it's ready-made, I think it's a comfort that many people have never experienced with ready-made clothes. This is great.
I am moved by the "moment" when I wear clothes.
This feeling is of this world.
And by wearing it and passing time, the familiarity with the owner is overwhelming.
This is a great benefit from hand-stitched sashimi.
If you use fusible interlining, the outer material and interlining will be stuck together with glue, so they will be fixed as they are.
However, in the case of hand-stitched sewing, there is a margin between the outer material and the interlining that is unique to hand-sewing, and it fits the wearer's body.
In addition, as the outer material and the interlining material rub against each other inside, the two naturally come together.
For that reason, despite the fit, when wearing it, there is a natural leeway and movement according to the movement.
I think there are people who make jackets to order, but I don't know how many custom-made jackets use hair cores and sashimi, but I'm sure that custom-made suits and bottoms will cost over 250,000 yen. I wonder if it will come
If the order is about 100,000 yen, I don't think there is a hair core and stabbing specification. Of course, it also depends on how much hand work and how much work is put into the whole thing.
Of course, the box pocket on the chest, which is also a part of the face, is also hand-sewn.
Cuffs with 4 rows of water buffalo horns made by Mr. Matsui.
Of course, it is a real face and has a beautiful frame.
Only 3 are open in the picture, but all 4 are open.
The lining is Nobuyuki Matsui's original cupra 100, the thickest in Japan.
Cupra 100 is usually thin, but this is a fabric that gives you a sense of security.
The brand even makes pants out of this Cupra 100 fabric. Very solid.
And this time, with special specifications.
As I mentioned earlier, the tailor craftsman had no choice but to give me a wonderful present because the designer couldn't make it on time as promised.
A water buffalo horn, a special button carved out by designer Mr. Matsui himself.
It is a beautifully polished button that draws a splendid molding beauty.
This level alone can be established as an object.
It comes with a button that is not normally possible.
And the buffalo horn's scorch button supports it on the back.
Even one back button is very expensive.
Well, Futsu is unlikely to be used with the back button and the power button.
A very beautiful looking jacket.
Takemoto is 174cm tall and weighs 55kg.
It's a thin body line, so there's still a margin, but I think it will fit properly even if you're a little more solid.
Ver. with a special button.
With this button, anyone can instantly recognize that it is not ordinary.
The arm swings forward naturally.
And the outline of the back that flows down softly and smoothly like an S-shape.
Wool and silk twill weave, brand original high-quality outer material, but its beauty stands out.
back view.
The shape of the waist also creates a line of the body without difficulty, and it is designed to be long enough to cover the buttocks.
And there is no complaint about the three-dimensional, rounded outline that rises from the shoulder to the neck.
great jacket.
This time, this Tailored Jacket includes the elements of an art piece that the designer cuts out the buttons from buffalo chunks. I asked them to combine various things such as very high quality.
Originally, the price would be around 300,000 yen, but this time it was unusual and we were the only wholesaler nationwide, so the price was impossible from the beginning. gave me
It's not something that everyone can wear, but I think it's rare to come across a jacket like this in your life, no matter how much you love clothes.
In the first place, it is not the level of clothes that are lined up in select shops.
However, as I wrote on this blog during AUBETT, as a person who deals with clothes, I want as many people as possible to know that "clothes can do so much". I believe that the power of clothes like this is tremendous.
Therefore, no matter how late the delivery was, it was important that this jacket was of proper quality at the store.
I would be very happy if you could experience the splendor of clothes through this Nobuyuki Matsui Tailored Jacket.
If you like clothes, I would appreciate it if you could take a look.
