The other day, I was finally able to introduce Yamauchi for the first time this year.
It will continue from here little by little.
It's not too soon though.
This time, I will introduce short-sleeved shirts and pants.
Yamauchi
Rayon Silk Cupra Short Sleeve Shirt
material _ RAYON 63%, CUPRO 34%, SILK 3%
color_BLACK
size_3,4,5
Following the striped long-sleeved shirt that I introduced the other day, it is a short-sleeved shirt.
As mentioned above, the blend ratio is rayon, cupra, and silk.
I talked a little bit about it in the blog the other day, but it is the fabric of a weaver who specializes in cupra, which Mr. Yamauchi has been working with since the last collection.
Fabric made by Watanabe Textile in Fujiyoshida City, Yamanashi Prefecture.
Fujiyoshida City is Japan's largest producer of cupra.
Watanabe Textile is run by Mr. Watanabe.
A person who makes silk ties in Fujiyoshida City has visited us before, and I heard from the customer that there are a lot of "Mr. Watanabe" in that area.
That person was Mr. Watanabe.
This time, the fabric used in Yamauchi was woven by Watanabe Textile, but in our store, amachi. also uses Watanabe Textile's fabric.
Watanabe Textile also made the striped fabric for the bespoke Dusk Shirts with amachi., which was released the other day.
You are very good at cupra, and you make fabrics with transcendence and originality that make the most of that material.
Watanabe Textile.
And so is Yamauchi's shirt this time.
I think that cupra is used for the lining of JKT, but it is actually an expensive fabric, and I think that it is rare to see cupra lining unless it is high-priced clothes nowadays.
It's a very suitable fiber for Japan, and I think it's a great advantage, especially in this season when people wear light clothes.
today's shirt.
Unlike the so-called cupra 100 that looks pretty smooth, it is a fabric that feels a little whitish and has a heavy luster.
There is also a trade-off with the blend ratio, and when held in the hand, it is not "quite lightweight", but I think it is suitable for summer.
It has a heavy and heavy look, but the drape also works well to complete the style of "adult Han summer black". this.
The table of this fabric.
All 3 types of fibers have strong reflective properties, so please allow them to be a little difficult to see.
Cupra is placed on the warp.
Watanabe Textile is a weaving shop that makes the most of the material characteristics of cupra and combines it with other fibers to create clothes that can only be experienced here and cannot be seen.
That's why I think it's characteristic that the combination of the weft threads creates an overwhelming feeling while placing the ultra-fine cupra on the warp threads.
In terms of this fabric, the weft is a mixture of rayon and spun silk.
and twill weave.
In the photograph of the microscope, the cupra of the warp looks the smoothest, and the thick threads running in the horizontal direction are the weft threads that are a blend of rayon and silk.
So, I'm going to take a step forward here, but this fabric is a type of twill of 3/1 (Sanichi).
There are various types of twill weave, such as 2/1 twill, but this is the first time I've seen this type of 3/1 twill.
At first, when I saw it with my naked eye, it looked like a twill weave, but I wasn't sure, so I didn't know.
But when I looked under the microscope, I could see why.
Normally, in the case of twill weave, the warp threads mostly appear on the surface.
"Sanichi no Aya" also has "one warp" straddling "three wefts". Normally.
This is the opposite.
"One weft thread" straddles "three warp threads".
Do you understand?
Such a thing.
When I asked Mr. Yamauchi, he said that there is another way to create an twill structure like this, and this is called "Yoko Aya".
On the other hand, normal twill is "vertical twill".
This is a fabric with more weft threads than warp threads and more cupra on the back.
As for this fabric, the blend rate is the blend rate, so it doesn't matter which side of the warp or weft comes in contact with the skin.
If this is not a weft twill, it will not have the look and feel of this fabric, and as a clothing store, I am proud to have analyzed and interpreted a considerable number of fabrics, but it was impossible to understand with the naked eye. I learned about the power of Japanese weavers who create fabrics with such depth.
Well, it's very comfortable to wear, it feels good on the skin, and the "black" appearance of this blend is also very unique.
It's dry, but it feels like it's wet.
I'm not wet.
The back side is more glossy because the warp cupra is more visible on the back side.
The table looks duller.
Unusually for shirts, genuine water buffalo buttons match the fabric.
A button with a matte surface.
A slightly larger horn with a diameter of 1.5 cm and a thickness of 2 mm.
And just like the previous shirt, this time also the front body is a set-in sleeve with just the shoulder.
On the other hand, the back is set with the shoulder line slightly lowered.
It's summer, so to give you a relaxed look.
Also, this short sleeve shirt has a back yoke.
The back yoke of the shirt is, so to speak, the one that uses the fabric in the horizontal direction.
The fabric I introduced before was striped, so the grain of the fabric was changed only at the yoke, and the back of the dress looked like stripes and borders, so there was no yoke.
And this shirt this time.
The sewing specifications are very well thought out.
Full of specifications that can make the most of the "summer" and the "potential of the fabric".
Also the front and back seams.
The front and back body, sleeves, and shoulders where the yoke intersects.
Also under the armpits where it is easy to get rough.
This is everywhere.
"Waribuku Sewing"
This is a specification to insert a stitch to hold the edge of the fabric after splitting the seam allowance on the back.
Therefore, when viewed from the front, there are stitches on both sides where the parts are joined.
Seen from the back,
Such a thing.
It looks like seam tape.
Even the three-dimensional design of the shoulders is made with such specifications because of the excellent skills of the seamstress.
If you look closely, you can see the seam allowance.
Super flat.
The seams are flat and the edges of the fabric are fixed with stitches, so the seams are very smooth and there is no irritation to the skin that can cause discomfort when worn.
Mr. Yamauchi of Yamauchi said that he wanted to try wearing it bare skin in the summer, and this is what he meant.
It's a short-sleeved shirt with a very well thought out structure that takes advantage of the fabric's properties.
Of course you can wash it at home.
I posted a picture of me wearing it on Instagram, so it would be nice if you could see me wearing it there, but it's a very well-made Yamauchi quality shirt.
If you wear short-sleeved shirts in the summer, take a look at this one.
We promise you a comfortable summer.
And this.
Yamauchi
High-density cotton voile weather / three-dimensional switching pants 2
material_COTTON 100%
color_GRAY
size_2,3,4
Although it is 100% cotton, these pants have a very strong atmosphere.
Mr. Yamauchi of Yamauchi has been making "three-dimensional switching pants", and this is Ver2.
The three-dimensional switching pants were a combination of small parts and had a rather narrow shape, but as the name suggests, in the existing pants world, it is a rare three-dimensional structure that does not make you feel cramped due to its thinness. But this is a version that adds a feeling of margin and space to it.
The fabric is 100% cotton as mentioned above.
The fabric is woven by a weaver named Furuhashi Orifu in Hamamatsu City, Shizuoka Prefecture.
According to Mr. Yamauchi, even in Japan, "thick-count, hard-twisted cotton" is the fabric that Furuhashi Orifu is most good at.
And this time, the pants are made with the same texture as it was woven, without any processing.
It's a thick cotton thread, so it's a little fuzzy, but the thread is strongly twisted and tightly tightened.
Normally, this type of fabric is more disordered, weakly twisted, and often has a lot of irregular fuzz, but this is one of the "cotton fabrics" that everyone has seen. very specialty.
I can nod that it is a thick twist.
The angle of inclination of the fibers is close to the lateral direction. relatively.
This fabric, which is woven in a plain weave with two colors of thread, is not particularly thick, but it is not a fabric that is limited to spring and summer, but rather a year-round pants.
Also, it's 100% cotton plain weave, but I think it's a touch that will surprise anyone. this.
Most of these things are stiff and too strong fabric, but this is not like that.
It has a supple core and is dry, but not completely dry.
The center of the fabric is wet.
I'm not wet.
It's the original oil that is peculiar to cotton fiber.
This is surely the first touch of the unexperienced zone.
Because it's this kind of fabric, I think that the old-fashioned analog way of getting along with it, which is to wear it and wash it, is the best way to bring out the fabric.
Straight firmness and firmness.
"That feeling" that you wear a lot and get familiar with your body.
100% cotton fabric used for pants. So this quality is a level that I haven't seen at all in the last few seasons.
It's a Yamauchi-esque place, but it has big wrinkles from washing.
You can feel the depth even in the cotton fabric.
Also, the three-dimensional switching pants 2 come with an elastic waistband and a drawcord that opens in the front.
Until now, Yamauchi's front-opening pants didn't have elastic or cords, but this time it's the first time.
It may be good for those who don't like easy pants that don't have a front opening.
If you tuck it in, belt it, and put something on it, it won't look like easy pants.
And the feature of the shape of these pants is the three-dimensional switching around the legs.
If you lay it flat, it will not fold neatly, and unnatural creases will form.
The front bulges slightly at the knee position, the back has a shape from the curve of the buttocks to the back of the knee, and from the back of the knee, it bulges naturally to match the roundness of the calf.
The shape of the knee position and the roundness of the front and back of the pants are rarely seen in ready-made pants.
Please be surprised not only by its wearing feeling, but also by its literal three-dimensional outline.
The front body and back body are formed by switching from the back yoke.
Furthermore, the back pocket that uses the switching of the yoke.
This is what it looks like from the side.
It is made round so that it can be wrapped from the back.
It's a single-ply pants with no lining, but as you can see, the details around the waist are well-equipped.
Of course, it is equipped with marbelts, excella zippers, and water buffalo buttons, but this is the button on the front.
I'm standing up like crazy.
After all, these pants are made of such a worn-out fabric.
No matter how strong the fabric is, if the fabric that builds it is broken, you can't even put it on and it's THE END.
Yamauchi's clothes are made in detail, but it's not just the beginning.
If it was just a spec match for the first squid tsui, I think it would be possible to do as much as you want with a certain brand, but Mr. Yamauchi, I'm not aiming for that.
By pouring the skill of hands firmly into clothes, it's comfortable to wear, clothes that you can't help but pick up. think.
It may be a few years after owning Yamauchi's clothes that will truly respond to those who pick them up and give them a true answer. In a way.
Back side appearance.
If you can see this, you may be able to continue wearing it with even more peace of mind.
This is the inside around the knee.
Overlock is often used for switching everywhere in these pants.
If you are very knowledgeable about clothes, you can guess that the thickness of the fabric on the back side is less likely to interfere with the front side by processing the edge of the fabric with an overlock.
If this is folded down, or if the sewing specifications are such that thickness appears where the fabric overlaps, it will have a large effect on the front.
Especially because it is a cotton fabric that is as solid as this.
I think overlock is the most suitable specification.
I do things that make sense according to the type of clothes, according to the fabric.
Looking at the picture alone, it looks like a stiff pair of pants, but it's not to that extent.
It's also easier to move than you can imagine.
These pants can be worn all year round, and if you get them, it would be best if you don't think too much about them and use them a lot.
Yamauchi's shirt and pants that I introduced today will go on sale from 12:00 on the 5th (Sat).
I'm planning to post it at the same time on the online store this time as well.
If you are hard to come to the store, I would be happy if you could see it.
