We are often asked this question by customers who visit our store, and I think it is a word that can be asked at any store, not just our store.
"Are you affected by Corona?"
This word.
I think that each person who asks this question has their own true intentions, but most of them seem to be questions out of simple curiosity.
It doesn't mean that I want you to quit anymore, and it doesn't mean that I have a disgust for that word.
However, the reality is that many of those questions are asked in such a way that they feel like "Did the number of customers decrease?"
And in fact, our store is messed up with the impact of Corona.
It's just that it's the ′′ impact ′′ of corona, and it doesn't mean that the number of customers who can come to the store has decreased.
Since the pandemic two years ago, its "effects" have been positive and negative.
I also thought about the management method, and as a result, it worked positively for me.
Sometimes I cried because it was painful and frustrating.
However, the brands we carry entrust their products to us, and we have a responsibility to keep them, and thanks to our customers who support us on a daily basis, we are able to operate like this.
However, the current situation in the clothing industry is that most of the people in the upstream, such as sewing factories and weavers, are being negatively affected.
In the first place, as a matter of course, the apparel industry can be broadly classified into three stages: upstream, midstream, and downstream.
・Kawakami → Yarn shops, weavers, sewing businesses, etc. close to raw materials
・Kawanaka → Brands/manufacturers, distributors, etc.
・Downstream → retail stores
The structure is roughly like this.
Over the past two years, I have heard many times about closures, closures, dissolutions, etc., and it has had a huge impact on the upstream of the Japanese clothing industry.
Then, it spreads to the next stage in the middle of the process, and things like delivery delays and production failures occur.
And that extends to downstream retailers.
No longer will anyone be “unaffected” in this era of the coronavirus pandemic.
However, I would like you to know through "Yamauchi" what kind of things actually happen due to the "influence" of the clothing industry.
Yamauchi, who we carry in our store, thinks that this brand has elements of both upstream and midstream, as I mentioned earlier.
Mr. Yamauchi actually sews it himself.
Mr. Yamauchi is earnestly aiming to preserve the proper techniques of the Japanese industry by creating clothes as a brand.
That's why each piece of Yamauchi's clothes comes with a "sewing artist tag" with the sewer's name on it.
The sewing industry has been active in Japan for a long time, but the number of people who work in the industry has decreased dramatically compared to its heyday.
There are many reasons for that, but first of all, the industry is wage work.
In other words, only the number of clothes sewn will be income.
However, as I briefly touched on in this blog before, manufacturers and brands have fallen into a cycle in which it is difficult to create enough quantities to make the sewing industry prosperous.
I think that is also the responsibility of the retail store that sells it, and to put it roughly, the circle of the clothing industry has collapsed 10 or 20 years ago.
Until then, it was under the surface, but I hear that it has become exposed due to this coronavirus.
Mr. Yamauchi of Yamauchi has been making clothes with the intention of improving it somehow.
Last summer was the epitome of that.
I don't know if I should say this, but one day, out of the blue, a package arrived from Mr. Yamauchi.
Inside is a free-cut hard-twisted punch T-shirt.
Moreover, the white that should not have been made at that time.
There is no delivery note that should always be attached.
However, in the enclosed paper, Mr. Yamauchi's thoughts and a message that he would give it were written.
What I mean by that is that I want to cheer up and encourage the retail store with the T-shirt, and I want to hand over the work to the factory that sewed the T-shirt.
As I said earlier, sewing factories earn their income from wages, so if they don't sew something all the time, they won't be able to make a profit.
In the case of a weaver, if you don't weave the fabric all the time, you won't make any money.
The people who sew Yamauchi have wonderful skills, but at that time, the number of productions decreased significantly due to the spread of the coronavirus, and it seems that the number of sewing jobs has decreased significantly.
In order to somehow fill the gap, Mr. Yamauchi bought the fabrics of Hakudaisho Ono and handed them over to the sewing factory.
The total number of T-shirts made with free-cut, hard-twisted punch was about 80, and they were distributed free of charge to owners and buyers of Yamauchi's clothing stores.
Give jobs to factories and give away the finished product for free to encourage retailers.
I don't think it's a "job" that anyone can do. this.
And, as you probably already know, today I'm going to introduce Yamauchi's clothes.
Well, Yamauchi doesn't have a collection for the 2021AW season, but what I'm introducing today is not from this season.
In last year's spring/summer collection or autumn/winter collection, the store handling the brand made an order.
The brand manufactures the quantity according to the order.
However, it is clothes that were refused to receive at the time of delivery.
Cash flow is going to be tough, but you should know that in advance.
Canceled at the time of delivery.
It is neat clothes made by weavers and seamstresses over a long period of time.
However, clothes that have lost their place to go.
I think that Yamauchi's clothes are not just "clothes", but also have the property of "voting to evaluate engineers".
Well, it's not limited to Yamauchi, but Yamauchi's current clothes are particularly strong in that aspect.
That's why I think we should see the light of day through our shop for a piece of clothing that has accumulated that technology.
And I think that the people who get the clothes should use them a lot.
That's why I bought the clothes.
There are two types of shirts to introduce today.
Yamauchi
Salted cotton linen shirt (with feather collar)
face material _ COTTON 50%, LINEN 50%
linning material _ COTTON 55%, CUPRO 45%
color _ GRAY KHAKI
size_2,3,4,5
A shirt that symbolizes Yamauchi's quality.
Full lining on a salt-shrinked outer material.
It's a shirt that surpasses shirts with bag stitching and piping.
with collar and
Yamauchi
Salt-shrunk cotton linen shirt (no feather collar)
face material _ COTTON 50%, LINEN 50%
linning material _ COTTON 55%, CUPRO 45%
color _ GRAY KHAKI
size_2,3,4,5
A unique shape with no collar and no collar.
Yamauchi's salt-condensing process is performed by manually immersing each piece of fabric used for one garment in salt-condensing liquid.
In today's world, the mainstream salt-shrinking process is spraying on a large piece of fabric and only processing the surface.
In that case, the texture of the salt shrinkage disappears after washing and wearing, so it becomes a temporary salt shrinkage.
But this is done by hand and carefully processed.
As a result, the original amount of material has shrunk significantly, and the amount of outer material used is equivalent to 2.5 garments in the usual standard length.
The theory is that the gap between the warp and weft threads disappears due to the large shrinkage of the original fabric, and as a result of the threads squeezing each other, they become bumpy and wrinkled.
And as a gift of manual salt shrinkage, the depth of color is also mentioned.
Among natural fibers, cotton and linen, which are classified as vegetable fibers, have the problem that they cannot be dyed deeply with dyes due to their nature.
On the other hand, animal fibers, which are also natural fibers, are mainly composed of protein amino acids, and have a very high affinity with dyes, making it possible to create deep colors.
That's why you often see deep colors in wool fabrics, but there aren't many deep colors in cotton or linen.
In the theory of dyeing method.
However, Yamauchi's salt-shrinking process not only shrinks the fabric, but also allows the dye component to react with the salt-shrinking liquid, creating shades that are impossible to achieve with ordinary vegetable fiber fabrics.
This GRAY KHAKI and OLIVE and AZUKI, which are currently available at our store, have the same theory, so it is a color that is difficult to exist in other cotton and linen fabrics.
Moreover, the color does not fade easily with normal washing.
Well, at my level, once washing 100 or 200 times becomes the norm, you'll be able to enjoy the natural fading caused by washing.
As I mentioned in my blog the other day, the stitches on this shirt are barely exposed on the front.
The texture of the fabric is strong, so the overall appearance of the clothes is not overly strong.
Collar and bodice joints,
The shoulder lines and back yoke are all sewn together or sewn together invisibly.
The appearance of the fabric with a depth that was bumpy.
and fine fine twill weave.
The stitches visible from the front are the buttonholes and cuffs,
This is it.
The rest is only the hem of the bodice.
However, the back of the shirt has a very strange sewing specification.
Shoulders and arms treated with 55% cotton, 45% cupro twill lining.
This is it.
It's no longer the back of the shirt, and it's a parade of processing that you can't think of as an armhole with a strong roundness.
Piping that continues from the processing of two sleeves to the opening and closing of sword rags.
The edge stitch of the presser is also sewn without any distortion.
This is not a level that anyone who sews shirts can do.
It's a great sewing technique.
And by carefully piping it in this way, it feels soft against the skin, and as a result, the durability of the clothes is greatly improved.
Top stitch on the back of the front body.
very well organized
Cotton cupra twill lining that feels good on the skin.
The stitching on the side of the body is also this needle movement.
The pitch is clearly visible when compared with the fine texture of the fabric.
The sizing is by no means loose, but it's a shirt that fits your body three-dimensionally.
This three-dimensional feeling is surprising.
The design does not feel cramped even though it is not a large size.
So this is a 3 or 4 year old salt shrink cotton linen shirt that I happen to be wearing today.
This is what I picked up in the morning without thinking.
This is not something that was in the collection, but a saxophone blue that is as close to white as possible for the first time I made it as if it was a special order.
I think I have about 3 more at home.
This series. too comfortable.
I think I've washed it at least 300 times already. This color really. Not full at all.
After washing it so far, it was originally a light tone, but it has become a light color like before the salt shrinking process.
The dough on the front becomes soft like a marshmallow and has a lot of swelling.
Wearable marshmallows.
But the wrinkles of salt shrinkage that won't disappear.
Yamauchi's brand name is taken.
Well, this kind of clothes looks best if you use it this much.
Yamauchi
Hybrid cotton shirt (with feather collar)
material_COTTON 100%
color _ KHAKI
size_2,3,4
Yamauchi
Hybrid Cotton Shirt (Stand)
material_COTTON 100%
color _ KHAKI
size_2,3,4
And this too.
As the name suggests, this shirt is made of cotton, but the fabric looks and feels like you wouldn't think so.
Although it is a thin thread (80 count single thread), it is a fabric that is woven with an ultra-high density.
This is a weaving shop in Hamamatsu, Shizuoka Prefecture, and the fabric is Fukuda Orimono.
It seems that it is difficult to weave such high density without the most advanced looms in Europe.
Moreover, it seems that the hurdle is quite high to introduce the loom.
That's why Mr. Yamauchi said that even in Japan, only Fukuda Orimono could achieve that level.
It's just super high density, and it seems that it can't be dyed with normal cotton fabric dyeing methods because the dye doesn't get inside.
So, it seems that the ultra-powered high-temperature and high-pressure press is used to press the color into the cotton, which is not usually done on cotton.
A very special fabric.
So, I was thinking of using a microscope, but for some reason I couldn't do it today, so I rubbed my face and looked at the texture.
When you touch the fabric, I don't think there are many people who think it's 100% cotton.
It has a surface like nylon 100 and a little cashmere. I don't have cashmere.
Outside of Yamauchi, it's a fabric in an unexperienced zone.
Also, unlike the salt-shrinking shirt, this shirt has many exposed stitches on the front.
I think that you can feel Yamauchi's sewing technique abundantly on the front.
Placket.
The placket is a special wing specification.
The width of the placket itself is a few millimeters narrower than that of Shirt Theory, and on top of that, there are crackling edge stitches.
So, rational processing that suppresses the extra opening of the placket with kandome.
Although it looks modest, it is packed with techniques.
The hem of the front body and the back body have a slightly different shape and are cut differently.
The hem is three rolls.
It has black pearl buttons, but the fly placket hides it.
Round cuffs with truncated corners.
Two sleeves of course.
There are wrinkles like puckering in the seams, but this is because the fabric is the fabric and the pitch of the sewing is also pitch.
On the contrary, it may be good because you can wear it without worrying about wrinkles.
The stitching is so fine that the fabric can hold it, but you can imagine the fabric making a gurgling sound every time the needle passes through the fabric.
The color is KHAKI, which is a straight military color, but the texture of the fabric that feels overwhelming on the skin and the outstanding sewing pitch create a unique atmosphere, so please enjoy it.
Also, although I didn't take a picture of it, Mr. Yamauchi had a black one in stock for the gallery shop, so I asked him to send it all together.
Well, there is quite a bias in size when it comes to black.
At our store, Yamauchi's clothes are absolutely necessary for a clothing store, and we believe that wearing Yamauchi's products will definitely affect our customers.
It's a straight word, but I always think that you can feel the depth of clothes that you don't just wear.
Please take a look at Yamauchi's shirt.
