I'm letting you know COTTLE.
Yesterday belongs to the series "UNIFORM FOR LIVING"
We introduced GOLDEN WHEAT FIELD CORDUROY.
Another collection today.
"SenkohSuiu" ＝ "incense (flashing) green rain"
In this "SenkohSuiu", I express the unexpected encounters and beauty in life through visual and tactile sensations.
A collection that embodies materials by incorporating craft-like art elements.
And "LEAF VEIN" in it.
"LEAF VEIN" = "leaf vein"
A single leaf is delicately and intricately meticulously detailed and stretched out.
The LEAF VEIN collection expresses this with COTTLE's original fabrics and construction of clothes.
When we held an order event one year ago last year, we mainly developed this LEAF VEIN collection.
A little before the event a year ago, I had COTTLE make a LEAF VEIN TAILOR MADE SHIRT for myself.
More than a year has passed since then.
I wrote about it on my blog the other day, but I feel that the quality of the fabric and the shirt is so screamingly wonderful.
Even after wearing it for a year, I still feel the beauty of this shirt over time.
Not to mention the meticulous design, specifications, and details, this fabric expresses the veins of the leaves.
I would like to introduce this to everyone again and see it.
COTTLE's TAILOR MADE SHIRT that I keep wearing super frequently.
Not sure how many times it was worn.
The number of times of washing is numerous.
After one year of such things, I feel that I have become more like a "living creature".
I mean that in a very good way.
The material stands out, the stage against the skin has changed, and the unique power of "LEAF VEIN fabric" can be felt directly.
Thread blown out than new.
Threads made from materials selected by COTTLE from all over the world are popping out generously.
Characteristic "kintsugi button".
Then, "Hardman's Hemp" and "Raw Silk" emerged like leaf veins.
These two materials create the depth of the fabric that is not flat.
This has been highlighted by passing the water over and over again.
From now on, I expect that LEAF VEIN will continue to show us its peculiar "beautification over time".
Original "LEAF VEIN" fabric made by Kaneta Orimono.
Kaneta-san always takes great care to create fabric that will last for 100 years, so when I think about it, it's only been 100 years since I've worn it.
As you continue to use it, the color of the natural dye "FERMENTATION" will fade, but COTTLE will re-dye it, so you can layer new natural dyes on top of the faded color over time. It might be good.
That's why the TAILOR MADE SHIRT that I'm still wearing is just starting.
The fabric woven by Kaneta Orimono, who weaves this fabric, is very special.
Kaneta makes full use of the shuttle loom, which produces narrow fabrics at the raw fabric stage.
For that reason, when a brand produces clothes, it is very difficult to "convenience" to use the fabric when placing the pattern of the clothes. not something to do.
That's why Kaneta pursues the quality of the fabric and pursues the creation of a super special fabric of a class that no other weaver can weave.
Therefore, the price of the fabric is high, and it is something that cannot be easily mastered by any clothing brand.
However, on the other hand, Kaneta's fabrics have a wonderful texture that cannot be found anywhere else in the world.
A collection that began with Kaneta's expression of "LEAF VEIN".
First of all, let me introduce you to the mix ratio of the fabric.
"37% hemp, 33% cotton, 30% silk"
Ultra materials containing "30% or more" of each material.
On top of that, the quality of raw materials is endless.
The technology of Kaneta Orimono, which Japan boasts, and the aesthetics of Mr. Watanabe of COTTLE were combined with each other, and after repeated research, it was completed.
COTTLE aims for "texture, texture, comfort, strength, and beauty when dyed".
And when you touch the linen fabric of the horse merchant coat from 100 years ago, you can feel the luster and density, and the moist feeling on your skin.
Even after such a long period of time, we create a "plain fabric" that has a "raw feeling".
It is in "plain" that the essence that cannot be deceived appears.
In order to achieve this, Mr. Watanabe of COTTLE found that a combination of "hemp, cotton, and silk" was the best, based on his experience so far, and repeated trial production with these three materials.
That's how "LEAF VEIN" was completed.
First, "hemp", which accounts for the largest percentage.
In the first place, hemp is a material that is very suitable for the hot and humid climate of Japan.
In addition, it gives the fabric a beautiful natural knot pattern and firmness, which is the goal of "LEAF VEIN".
But COTTLE's hemp is not just any hemp.
Hemp spun by a company called Hardmans, which specializes in linen.
Due to its high quality, it is said that it is also called "Rolls Royce of linen".
"Hardman's Hemp" made by a spinning company with that know-how.
Linen and hemp are made from the stems of plants, so they generally have much thicker fibers than cotton, which uses fluff.
However, if you use it well, it will create a unique pattern and a unique firmness.
At the prototype stage of the fabric, they used thick hemp thread, but it was not what COTTLE was aiming for.
After repeated prototyping and searching, I finally arrived at "Hardman's Hemp", which is an ultra-fine count among the "100 count" hemp.
The "100th hardman's hemp" is said to be of considerable rarity value.
In addition, Hardman's has a title of "Gold Label" for very thin hemp threads of 60 count or more.
Therefore, the hemp used by COTTLE is "Gold Label No. 100 Hardman's Hemp".
It is said that such raw materials cannot be produced unless there are overwhelmingly high-quality raw materials that have been carefully selected from all over the world, and high spinning technology is not combined.
The "100 count single yarn hardman's hemp" is placed on the weft.
The next most common material is cotton.
The cotton is called "Ultimate Pima Organic", just like the corduroy fabric I introduced yesterday.
It is extra-long staple cotton, and is a variety called specialty cotton cultivated by Mr. Dorsey Alvarez in New Mexico, USA.
Organic is one of the organic cotton varieties cultivated by organic farming without using any pesticides.
The United States has a large share of cotton cultivation in the world, but its center is upland cotton.
It is widely distributed around the world, but Ultimate Pima is said to be a variety that takes longer than the Upland variety , with a cultivation period of one month throughout the year, and a less rational harvest.
Cotton produced by Mr. Dorsey Alvarez, who spends a lot of time and effort.
The characteristics of Ultimate Pima are that it is cultivated in the highlands of New Mexico, where the temperature difference is large, and the fiber has firmness and elasticity, and its tough and beautiful appearance is maintained for a very long time.
According to Mr. Watanabe of COTTLE, some other organic cottons are just delicate, and those kinds of cotton tend to get saggy and hard as they are worn and used. be.
Ultimate Pima is a super-excellent cotton that has the ability to maintain quality with very little deterioration, and the characteristics of "beautification over time" that COTTLE pursues.
The "Ultimate Pima 80 count two-ply yarn" is placed in the warp.
And finally, the third material with a mixed ratio.
"silk". This is also used for the warp threads.
It is said that silk was an indispensable material in order to create the luster and texture of the fabric that Cottlee idealized.
Furthermore, in order to compensate for the coolness of the 100-count Hardman's hemp that is woven into the weft and the feeling of coldness in winter, silk protein with high moisture retention was necessary.
However, the silk is not silk spun yarn or silk spun yarn with unevenness, but "raw silk" with a strong silk luster.
"Raw silk" is the thread that the silkworm spits out from its mouth to become a chrysalis.
Then it completely covers your body.
It is called a cocoon ball, and silk fiber is made from the cocoon ball.
The cocoon ball is made up of threads spewed out from the mouth of the silkworm, so it is placed in hot water and gradually loosened.
A single fiber clump slowly dissolves in the hot water, like a brush.While gently unraveling, it finds the starting point of the fiber and takes out a single long "silk fiber".
The length of the extracted silk fiber is said to be astonishingly "1500m" long.
In the first place, all fibers are roughly divided into
・Short fiber = span
・Long fiber = filament
There are two types, but among natural fibers, silk is the only "filament".
A filament is a single long fiber that continues without interruption, and all other natural fibers are classified as "short fibers = spun".
On the other hand, most of the synthetic fibers are long filaments.
It is an image of spraying from a mouthpiece like a shower, using a solvent such as polymer or monomer as a raw material. chemical fiber.
That's why the fibers continue on and on.
Therefore, it becomes a long fiber.
Natural fibers such as cotton, wool, and linen are all fluff, body hair, and plant stems, and because they are short fibers, they cannot be used as threads unless they are spun.
However, silk is the only natural fiber that can be used as a filament.
Because it is 1500m.
Such raw silk is also a very Japanese thread and has been used in Japanese clothing since ancient times.
Kimono and obi.
The beauty of kimono fabrics is unique to Japan, and there is a beauty that can only be found in it.
However, such raw silk is originally woven by hand.
This is because the fibers are so delicate that they tend to break during weaving.
However, as mentioned above, the weaving of this fabric this time was done by Mr. Kaneta.
Woven on a "shuttle loom".
A low-power loom that creates selvedges on both ends of the so-called "selvage" fabric. Also known as an old-fashioned loom.
This is a loom with a structure similar to hand-weaving, but it has a special power compared to hand-weaving.
Weaving "raw silk" with a "shuttle loom" is quite a hurdle.
It's still unspun yarn, and it's sometimes called thin and delicate fiber.
The fineness of raw silk used in COTTLE LEAF VEIN is "21d/8".
In other words,
8 strands of 21 denier raw silk.
The notation "denier" is only used for silk, which is the only filament fiber among natural fibers.
Other natural fibers are spun yarns of short fibers, so they are written as "count".
That "denier" is...
1 denier is 9000m long and weighs 1g.
The raw silk this time is 9000m long and weighs 21g.
That is "21 denier".
The notation "denier" means that the larger the number, the thicker the thread.
Contrary to the "count" used for short fibers, the larger the number, the "thinner" the yarn.
Denier and count are confusing, but they are opposite concepts.
So, if you convert 21 denier to "British cotton count" that expresses the fineness of cotton, it will be "253 count".
It seems that it is normally impossible to weave such a fine thread with a shuttle loom.
Therefore, in order to increase the strength, 8 pieces of 21d raw silk are attached.
8 strands of 253 count raw silk.
253/8 = 31.625
In other words, roughly "the 32nd bundle of raw silk" is completed.
As a result, when it becomes a fabric, it will not lose to the existence of Hardman's Hemp and Ultimate Pima, and will lead to the utilization of all the characteristics of each of the three types of materials.
However, in the process of weaving until the fabric is completed, the thin raw thread breaks during weaving.
Mr. Kaneta's craftsmen were always attached to the loom, and it seems that every time the raw silk was cut, it had to be spliced by hand.
Every time the raw silk runs out, the loom is stopped, the threads are tied by hand, and the threads are woven again.
This process is the fusion of "handicraft" and "industrial products" that COTTLE is aiming for, and even if it takes time and money, we absolutely cannot compromise on fabrics.
The fabric produced by COTTLE and Kaneta Orimono.
This is the fabric of LEAF VEIN, a wonderful quality that can be said to be a "solitary existence" that will impress everyone when you see it, touch it, wear it, and wear it for a long time. .
"100 Count Single Yarn Hardman's Hemp Weft"
"80-count two-ply Ultimate Pima warp"
"21d/8 raw silk warp"
Everything is beautifully and wonderfully proportioned and woven.
Ultimate Pima with ivory tint on raw silk that shines conspicuously even when viewed under a microscope.
Hardman's Hemp runs thin and straight from the back.
Even if you enlarge it, there are never many fabrics that look this neat and beautiful.
All of the above three materials have their meanings, and it is this combination that allows us to arrive at the astonishing "LEAF VEIN" fabric.
The visual expression, its texture, and the power of each of the three materials.
I don't think it's possible to come across such a vector and this level of fabric outside of COTTLE.
COTTLE's SenkohSuiu using fabric of such quality
Using that fabric, COTTLE's "thought" and "hands" are further added and completed.
And about staining and models.
Genuine indigo dyeing. The three types of fibers create a difference in shade.
Silk dyes darkly, Ultimate Pima dyes like heather, and hemp dyes glossy while leaving a core.
These three densities give the fabric a vein-like appearance.
Persimmon juice mordant. A dye made by fermenting persimmon juice using traditional methods.
Uses purified odorless persimmon juice. The unique hardness that covers the surface softens and adapts to your body every time you wear it.
Mordanting (closer to black) and dark tones to evoke the soil and trunk of plants.
"AUTHENTIC INDIGO + KAKISHIBU"
COTTLE black that cannot be expressed with chemical black.
Layer the real indigo dyeing and layer the persimmon tannin.
A black that pursues depth by overlapping colors.
Anyway, dyeing takes time and effort.
The color of the undyed fabric itself.
The shape is a pullover called CHAPEL SHIRT.
The fabric is used horizontally.
Therefore, the selvage of the shuttle loom is placed on the hem.
AUTHENTIC INDIGO, VERDURE INDIGO, AKANE dyed by hand painting on unbleached.
It expresses the three primary colors, random reflections of light, and the state of fermentation with an expression that seeps into the fabric.
The shape is TAILOR MADE SHIRT.
A shirt with a single collar without a base collar, hand-stitched cuffs, piped old mustache pongee on the armholes, and sleeves with sleeves.
The fabric is also used horizontally.
Cut off the hem.
Deep green with an original recipe that combines genuine indigo dye and domestically produced dead stock indigo.
As with AUTHENTIC INDIGO, each of the three types of fiber is dyed differently, creating a unique depth.
The shape is TAILOR MADE SHIRT as before.
"TAILOR MADE PANTS"
These are Virtua Indigo pants as before.
These pants have a slim form, and the interior is decorated with a mustache pongee marbelt and spectacular details.
"TAILOR MADE PANTS"
Same as TAILOR MADE PANTS, KAKISHIBU BLACK ZEN JACKET.
It can be used as a stand collar or a tailored collar.
Similar to the corduroy ZEN JACKET introduced yesterday, the original pattern shoulder structure line.
Original hemp cotton lining.
Cupra on sleeve lining.
Linen piping and Odaiba tailoring.
And specifications that have been generously handed inside and out.
No matter where you look, you can instantly feel how elaborate it is.
This is a jacket that really reflects the hand sewing method of our own atelier.
"AUTHENTIC INDIGO + KAKISHIBU"
This dyed ZEN JACKET has a tremendous aura.
No matter where you look at the dyeing, the structure of the clothes, this is the most special piece of COTTLE jacket.
Like the GOLDEN WHEAT FIELD CORDUROY introduced yesterday, the price of the LEAF VEIN collection varies depending on the dyeing.
So, if you are interested, please take a look after considering the color and price.
A reversible indigo-dyed coat.
It's a single layer, so it's a thin coat that you can enjoy on both sides.
Here is the other side.
Piping of mustache pongee is applied everywhere, and of course the pocket can be used on both sides.
And this side is a specification that the dyeing is switched for each part.
These are Gurkha pants that have more volume than the previous TAILOR MADE PANTS.
FERMENTATION which means fermentation.
It was the same with yesterday's corduroy, and it's the same with this LEAF VEIN, but basically, unless it's the middle of winter and you can't stand the cold, pants will hit your feet directly.
When that happens, the comfort of both corduroy and LEAF VEIN is extraordinary.
It is also characterized by a very fine touch.
New style long shirt (real indigo dyeing) and Gurkha pants.
A setup of ZEN JACKET and TAILOR MADE PANTS.
Hand stitching that expresses "leaf veins" everywhere and "hazashi" stitching on the back of the collar.
All hand stitch work done in the atelier.
Organic details like this are also characteristic of LEAF VEIN.
Here is a reversible coat.
Worn on the back.
There are models that are not posted on today's blog, so I think LEAF VEIN has more models than GOLDEN WHEAT FILED CORDUROY in terms of lineup.
This LEAF VEIN can also be produced in all colors with all lineups.
At present, clothes from COTTLE are lined up only three days a year.
Thinking about it, I don't think there is such a brand, but that's why the production is limited and everything is made in the atelier.
Each piece is a very thick piece of clothing.
The price is reasonable, so the hurdle is higher than other domestic brands, but those who get it will definitely feel more than that.
Please see the real thing and experience COTTLE, which makes clothes of world-class quality in Kojima, the mecca of denim.
On the 3rd (Sat), we are looking forward to seeing Mr. Shiiki, who always stands at the store, and everyone.