As we announced, we will be holding a COTTLE order event for 3 days from June 3rd (Sat) to 5th (Mon).
The last time was about a year ago, so this will be the second time.
COTTLE has an atelier in Kojima, Kurashiki City, Okayama Prefecture.
Kurashiki City prospered as a "town of folk art".
In the first place, "folk art" is an abbreviation of "folk art".
The term "folk crafts" refers to "items that the general public needs in their daily lives", and Kurashiki Folk Crafts Museum, where you can see such items from all over the world, is also located in Kurashiki. exist.
At COTTLE, we make clothes that cherish the idea of "folk art" very much.
Clothes as tools for living.
However, tools are not simply "used" as "tools".
I always think of clothes as "tools", but that "tool" can never be anything.
The idea that is cherished in "folk art" is that by using beautiful tools, you can be polished and live a beautiful life. something like.
I totally agree.
Precisely because it is made properly, there is always something that dwells in it, and you can feel the effect on the inside, not only when you wear it as clothes, but when you use it.
I think
Among them, the clothes made by COTTLE are exactly like that.
After a lot of research with weavers and dyeing factories, he creates them in his own atelier.
I think that you can feel something very special from the clothes of COTTLE.
A year ago, I actually wore the clothes for a year, and from the bottom of my heart, I feel the beauty that can only be felt from the clothes of COTTLE, so I proceeded to the second time this time.
At this order event, we will introduce two items from the COTTLE collection lineup.
・UNIFORM FOR LIVING ＝
・SenkohSuiu ＝ "Spark (flashing) green rain"
A collection so named.
And today, I will introduce the new line of "UNIFORM FOR LIVING".
"GOLDEN WHEAT FIELD CORDUROY"
Mainly, we use "Shankar Organic" cotton for the warp that is the base fabric.
Cotton called "Ultimate Pima Organic" is used for the pile part of the corduroy ridges.
The description says it is 100% cotton, but it seems that each is a blend with a ratio of 3 (longitudinal): 7 (latitudinal).
"COTTLE Original Corduroy", developed by COTTLE with Kaneta Orimono, is something that no one has ever experienced before.
Because it looks like a corduroy with thick ribs that I've seen before.
But it's just for looks.
In fact, it seems that corduroy does not exist in the world until the organization, loom, and process.
So when I actually saw it for the first time, I was incredibly excited.
I've never met anything like this before.
For the first time in a long time, it came up from the bottom of my heart. Well, it pops up once every few months. smile
In the first place, if you like clothes, I think that corduroy is a material that everyone has used and worn.
I think it's as true as denim.
That's just casual wear.
I think it's a fabric that I've used in my daily life.
In that sense, in COTTLE, corduroy is classified into a series called "UNIFORM FOR LIVING".
Tracing the origin of corduroy, it seems that there is a record that it was presented around the time of Louis XIV.
It's from the late 1600's to early 1700's.
A fabric that existed more than 400 years ago.
In those times, it may have been the clothes of kings, but in modern times, it is the most popular fabric among clothes that many people around the world recognize.
I think there are many people who don't understand the name of the fabric, such as poplin, but I think that the number of people who understand corduroy and denim will increase dramatically.
I think that's how much it's recognized and how much it's rooted in our lives as clothes.
COTLE "polished beautifully" such a corduroy.
at an incredible level.
And I am astonished.
So, I would be very happy if everyone could take a look and learn about it.
That's it.
"GOLDEN WHEAT FIELD CORDUROY"
"Golden Wheat Field"
please look.
This endlessly beautiful corduroy.
At COTTLE, it is important that undyed "off-white" allows you to experience the fabric itself to the fullest and that it is very beautiful.
The way the ridges stand, the density, the feel on the skin, the luster, and the fact that it will continue to change even more beautifully with continued use.
Corduroy of COTTLE where a revolution occurred in corduroy.
The above "skin touch" is very important, and if you subdivide it, "lightness" will also be important.
As I wrote a little bit the other day, corduroy is mostly made in China, and even domestically produced products are mostly ready-made.
I had heard about this from Mr. Ota of Kaneta Orimono before.
This is because there are more steps in the production process than other fabrics, and the cost and hurdles to develop it are extremely high.
Even more so if it is a small-lot production.
That's why most of the corduroys that most people, including myself, have seen so far are very similar.
One common feature is "weight".
Why?
An important part of corduroy.
"The part of the pile that forms the ridge".
This is done by cutting the thread and processing it.
However, if the density of the thread is too low, it will lose hair, which will quickly make it dry and make it look poor and full of hair.
Therefore, priority is given to making it with high density so that the hair does not fall out.
However, it is directly connected to the "weight" when worn.
When you see a corduroy dress with high ridges and dense pile, you may be worried about its "weight".
I'm always that
Even if you think they look good, they're all heavy.
I thought that was the characteristic of corduroy.
good corduroy = heavy
and.
Also, it's hard.
But, COTTLE's is completely different.
At the same time, the pile stands up, it's light, and it's so soft that you'll want to wrap your whole body in it, and it looks extremely luxurious.
Seriously, astonishment.
Look. Look again.
It's amazing. this.
The corduroy that COTTLE aimed at,
"Light, soft, shiny and durable 100% organic cotton authentic ribbed corduroy"
That means.
However, this "light, soft, lustrous, and durable" is not easy, and each of them creates "contradictions", so Mr. Ota of Kaneta Orimono said it was quite difficult. that's right.
When COTTLE developed corduroy, Mr. Ota thought about various corduroy theories.
Generally, corduroy is woven with high-speed looms such as "rapier looms" and "air-jet looms," which have a high weaving speed.
And it seems that it is less burden on the thread itself, and the production efficiency is greatly improved.
It seems that "corduroy woven with a shuttle loom" itself is very rare.
However, the corduroy that COTTLE aims for could only be achieved with a shuttle loom.
It is necessary to keep the weight so that the body does not feel the stress of the weight when worn as a set, as well as a single item of clothing.
When you think of corduroy, you probably think of autumn and winter, but for COTTLE, I wanted something light that you would want to wear all year round.
First of all, in order to obtain durability and luster, it is necessary to increase the number of threads and increase the density.
However, as I mentioned earlier, when the density is increased, the fabric naturally becomes "heavy and hard".
Pursuing "lightness and softness" reduces durability and luster.
In order to "coexist" this conflicting "pile retention" with technology, we developed an original structure in which only the pile part of the front ridge has a high density and the base structure has a "low density".
It seems that this was only possible with the shuttle loom.
The result is a fabric that looks like "authentic" corduroy, but is completely different.
A fabric that is closer to the "origin" of corduroy than vintage.
A special corduroy that has already existed over 100 years ago and is a familiar fabric that can be preserved for the next 100 years.
Then, I started by researching the dismantling of clothes and fabrics, and worked out the concept of prototypes and fabric structures, and tried many times to complete the product.
A corduroy material that does not exist anywhere else in the world, fulfilling the goals of COTTLE of "gloss, lightness, comfort and durability".
This should surprise you.
Here is the back side of the fabric.
On the back side, you can see the base of the corduroy.
The pile part that forms the ridges of corduroy is the "weft".
As mentioned earlier, "the weft is high density".
However, I think you can see the thickness and gaps of the thread in the base part shown in the above photo with the naked eye.
This gives it an amazing lightness.
And then coloring.
COTTLE comes in several color variations in addition to unstained production.
All the shades are "natural dyeing".
Let me introduce it.
"AUTHENTIC INDIGO"
This indigo dyeing is also the coloring that represents the brand.
Pure indigo dye without any chemical admixture.
In GOLDEN WHEAT FIELD CORDUROY, the colors are very vivid and combined with the height of the ridges, it achieves wonderful depth and further brilliance.
"ASAGI"
vivid light blue.
The density of the indigo dye is adjusted to create a blue that seems to pierce the sky.
As Mr. Watanabe from COTTLE said, corduroy has an image of skaters from California in the United States, so corduroy has a California-like mood.
However, it has a luxurious feel and aura that is unmatched.
For those of you who like bright colors, this might be a good choice.
Because this hue and luxury don't go together.
"HARVEST BROWN (mordant dye + 3 natural dyes = 4 colors in total)"
When COTTLE thought about this corduroy, we investigated its origin.
If you focus on "leaving it for 100 years", you will arrive at its origin.
A study of antique brown corduroy to create a unique hue that retains its beauty over time.
In order to achieve this, the corduroy is first mordant dyed, and on top of that, three colors of natural dyeing are applied separately to create an original recipe.
And then, a very dangerous brown dyed to confine a variety of color expressions and color changes "inside the ridges of the corduroy".
The color name is said to be "HARVEST" with the meaning that the GOLDEN WHEAT FIELD CORDUROY (golden wheat field) has reached a richness.
There are other color variations, but I haven't taken a photo of the enlarged fabric, so I'll explain it in words. smile
"MORDANT BLACK"
"Mordant" is the process of making the pigments of plants develop and fix on threads and cloth.
Basically, the dyed thread or cloth is mordant by soaking it in an aqueous solution of aluminum or iron, but at COTTLE, it seems that wood vinegar is used as a mordant.
In order to dye clothes darkly only with the mordant of wood vinegar, expensive wood vinegar is generously used.
Compared to chemical dyeing, it has a high potential to create "beautification over time".
"MORDANT INDIGO (mordant dye + real indigo dye) black indigo"
When the real indigo dyeing is performed, the rows of corduroy ridges shine brightly when exposed to the sunlight.
In order to express a color close to black with natural dyeing, mordant dyeing is layered on indigo dyeing.
Due to the ridges unique to corduroy, you can feel the depth and hue change depending on the viewing angle.
"AKANE"
Natural dyeing made from the roots of the madder tree.
This coloring is exactly California.
Bright pink with little bluish tint.
It is also intensely colored.
Next, I will introduce the line-up of clothes.
As for the fine details, it is best to talk about the details while looking at the actual product at the store.
As for the product photos, I think you can judge from the photos of the products provided by the brand, so please look at them and raise your expectations.
"CORDUROY ZEN JACKET"
"ZEN JACKET" that appears in LEAF VEIN of "SenkohSuiu".
The corduroy Ver. is also available.
I will introduce the LEAF VEIN tomorrow, but the details are a little different.
This corduroy has a collar shape, and the element of a coverall jacket is relatively strong.
COLOR_WHEAT ECRU
This is undyed unbleached.
Because of the bright color, you can clearly feel the strong ridges of the corduroy and the brilliance of the fabric.
COLOR_MORDANT INDIGO
This is a color ring in which mordant dyeing and real indigo dyeing are layered.
It is a natural black expressed by COTTLE.
A jacket designed to combine the essence of a coverall with an old-fashioned jacket.
A characteristic cut from the shoulder to the arm.
The width of the fabric for the shuttle loom is already narrow, so I usually don't cut it like this, but I designed the pattern with the best balance of COTTLE.
This creates a very distinctive and beautiful outline.
back.
Main face on the center vent.
If you make it natural, the grain of the arm will be slanted like a bias.
inside.
I think everyone will be convinced when they see this.
Original fabric lining with linen cord processing.
Of course, the button back is reinforced, and it is made in Odaiba.
At the same time, plenty of hand techniques that are not shown in the photo are generously poured into it.
COLOR _ HARVEST BROWN
This is HARVEST BROWN dyed in 4 colors.
It makes it more authentic.
It's just shining
Combining it with ZEN JACKET, I think it creates an even more classical old mood.
"CORDUROY GURHKA PANTS"
Gurkha pants.
The one-tuck length is designed for 9 minutes.
For the outline of the pants, it would be nice if you could see the wearing photo that will be posted later.
back.
It is a pocket specification of the shoulder bead.
So it looks simple on the surface.
But the way the craftsmanship is done is amazing.
If you can see the real thing, I think you'll want to wear it. smile
COLOR_ASAGI
I think you choose people, but I think it's pretty good for those who are addicted to it, ASAGI.
I think that the real thing in particular has a considerable mood.
COLOR_AUTHENTIC INDIGO
It's real indigo dyeing.
The real thing has great depth and brilliance.
COLOR_MORDANT BLACK
A mordant color of wood vinegar, which is produced by boiling charcoal or bamboo charcoal.
I think the charcoal color with its unique nuances is unique to natural dyeing.
COLOR _ HARVEST BROWN
It's pretty deep, isn't it? HARVEST BROWN is.
I feel the depth of the four colors in the original recipe.
"CORDUROY CHAMPETRE BOUQUET JACKET"
This is a unique jacket.
It has a mood closer to coveralls than ZEN JACKET, but it doesn't have the indigenous feel of coveralls at all.
It's in an old place, but very elegant.
I think the pocket cutting and sleeve specifications are very well done.
This is a single design.
The piping of the inner pocket is woven with the thread used in the "fishing net".
This is also a characteristic of the clothes of COTTLE.
COLOR_AKANE
intense color.
Akane.
COLOR_ASAGI
It's also pretty cool.
COLOR_MORDANT BLACK
As you can see in the photo, the cuffs have a large amount of facing, and the sleeves can be folded back to create a well-balanced jacket.
"CORDUROY AOR JACKET"
COLOR _ HARVEST BROWN
This jacket can be a stand collar or a tailor collar.
This jacket is also unlined.
I think that you can experience the lightness of the original corduroy.
However, because the fabric is fabric, it looks very solid.
COLOR_AUTHENTIC INDIGO
Tailored color style.
All colors are available for each clothing model.
In addition, the recipe differs depending on the coloring, and the number of dyeing processes is also different, so the price is also different.
For details, let me talk to you at the store.
"CORDUROY BUCKET HAT"
You can also order a hat.
Adjustable free size.
There are also color variations for each.
Also, I have a bag.
Finally wearing image.
I (height 167 cm, weight 53 kg) wears each, so please imagine it somehow.
"CORDUROY GURHKA PANTS"
I wear size 0.
The size is 4 sizes from 0 to 3.
For me, 0 pants is just the right size.
The jacket is size 0 or 1.
There is a one-tuck at the waist, and there is a lot of volume around the waist, so it is tapered.
"CORDUROY AOR JACKET"
"CORDUROY GURHKA PANTS"
AUTHENTIC INDIGO setup.
Do you understand?
The indigo-dyed corduroy fabric shines.
In addition to that, coloring from deep inside.
I think this is only happening with COTTLE original corduroy.
The "kintsugi button", which is a major feature of COTTLE, is also very useful.
"CORDUROY CHAMPETRE BOUQUET JACKET"
"CORDUROY GURHKA PANTS"
Each wears a sample size 2.
So it's a little bigger.
Even with this, the size of the pants is large, so I'm going to raise my waist and wear it. smile
But I think you can understand the mood of the fabric and the feel of the clothes.
So please give me some kind of image. in the image.
It's just that the corduroy level doesn't look good when you try it on.
During the period, we will prepare samples so that you can try each size, and we will make it possible for you to see all the colors.
If you place an order, it will be delivered approximately 3 months later.
Tomorrow, I will introduce LEAF VEIN of "SenkohSuiu".