As we announced the other day, the COTTLE "SenkohSuiu" ORDER EXHIBITION will be held for three days from the 21st (Sat) to the 23rd (Mon).
Today, let me introduce the lineup of the "LEAF VEIN" collection of "SenkohSuiu".
As we announced the other day, the fabric is an original made by Mr. Watanabe of COTTLE at Kaneta Orimono in Kakegawa City, Shizuoka Prefecture.
The warp yarns are "Ultimate Pima 80 count double yarn" and "21d/8 raw silk".
The weft is "100 count Hardman's hemp with gold label"
The three types of materials are made into fabric with a high-density twill weave.
The unevenness of the appearance, the brilliance of the fibers, the texture, the comfort of wearing, and the texture that includes all of them.
"LEAF VEIN" = A very wonderful fabric that expresses "leaf veins".
This fabric is common to all SenkohSuiu.
Based on that, Mr. Watanabe of COTTLE has taken it to an even more wonderful realm as clothes.
It's a wonderful collection.
A jacket named ZEN JACKET.
A tailor-made jacket that expresses the use of hand techniques, excellent machine sewing, cutting, and fabric usage without using interlining or shoulder pads.
"Hasashi" exposed on the surface.
In order to realize the ideal lapel shape, this sashimi can be placed on the back of the back collar or on the front, and can be used in a standing state or with the collar turned back.
The hand embroidery, which is not mechanical, also expresses the organic appearance of "leaf veins".
Also, the bodice, shoulders and sleeves have a very distinctive cut.
This is such a surprise.
It draws a nice outline even for people with various shoulders.
I'm 167cm tall, but my shoulders are well-developed, and my shoulder width alone is in the 180cm class.
Clothes that allow my shoulders to tolerate the shoulders of 99% of people in the world.
When viewed from the front, the arms look sharp, and when viewed from the side, the drape appears as if aimed at the top of the shoulder.
Smart and powerful coexist.
So, it looks like it, but when you choose the right size, the amount of movement of your arm.
Normally, this kind of jacket restricts the movement of the arms due to the height of the sleeves.
However, this COTTLE design is not that kind of range of motion.
Innovative without leaving too far from the classical realm, with an appropriate amount of room in the front and rear.
I'm super cool.
The outer material is the same material as previously announced, but the lining is 65% hemp and 35% cotton.
Supima cotton with 80 count single yarn for the warp.
The weft is bleached 50 count single yarn Blackland hemp.
The natural color of Blackland Hemp is said to be grayish.
That "back satin fabric".
Since it is back satin, there are many hemp surfaces on the surface of the lining.
It looks as good as the power of the outer material of ZEN JACKET.
However, because it is back satin, the back side is very smooth.
At COTTLE, we use the "front and back" of this back satin fabric for the lining depending on the type of clothes.
That is the installation in the flash state.
The lining of the sleeves is Cupra 100.
The edge of the outer cover is bordered with linen tape and tailored to Odaiba.
All button backs are reinforced with leather and of course handmade.
Still, "Ita buffalo" dyed buttons.
Of course, Honkiwa.
This is a dark green perfected with a unique formula to represent the color of the leaves.
A combination of "real indigo" and "dead stock indigo".
It seems that the indigo dyes that exist now are all made in China, but this was domestic indigo at the time when it was manufactured in Japan.
It's a completely original recipe, and it's a hybrid dyeing of indigo and dead stock indigo, so it seems that the color tends to change easily, but that's also unique to this color, so please look forward to it.
color _ KAKISHIBU BLACK
Only the hem and lining are cut off.
The place where the back processing is done properly and the place where there is fluctuation.
It's the balance that gives it a completely timeless mood.
Also, there are quite a lot of things that can't be seen in this picture.
color _ KAKISHIBU BLACK
Persimmon juice dyeing. To be precise, persimmon juice mordant.
Unripe green persimmons are crushed and squeezed to extract the juice.
A dye made using the old-fashioned method of aging and fermenting it for a year to create a persimmon tannin dye.
It seems that some persimmon tannin dyes have a very bad smell, but at COTTLE, it seems that they are using the ones that have been refined and made odorless.
In Japan, it is one of the dyes that is also used for fittings because it has the effect of becoming stronger the more you use it over the years.
Some old wood can last for 100 or 200 years.
Of course, I think that the quality of the wood used is also a factor, but it seems that some of them are colored with persimmon tannin.
When it comes to clothes, at first it feels crunchy and very hard, but when you wear it, it changes to a surprising softness.
However, due to the characteristics of the dye, it is very durable. At COTTLE, we aim for a color that is reminiscent of the color of the soil and the trunk. kana? Instead of using Kakishibu dye alone, we use a "mordant" to fix the color and create the desired brown shade.
TAILOR MADE PANTS
color _ KAKISHIBU BLACK
These pants are also dyed with "persimmon juice mordant" and can be worn under the ZEN JACKET.
At first, it's also very hard, but according to Mr. Watanabe of COTTLE, it melts and softens.
This is a unique advantage of natural dyes.
This trouser has quite a few stitching specifications that I haven't seen anywhere else.
I can't really tell from the photos.
How to put stitches from the carrying out to the front placket, how to process the back of the belt loop, how to put stitches to form the front one tuck.
This is another very well thought out and designed trouser.
In addition, hand-embroidered to represent the irregularities of the "leaf veins".
The waist has elastic, but it doesn't feel like easy pants.
Rather than the comfortable feeling of rubber, it feels like it stretches a little when you sit down.
On the back of the waist, the same back satin as before, and in addition, kimono fabric is sewn all around instead of the resin marbelt.
The fabric of this Marvel is said to be the fabric of antique 100% silk kimonos that Mr. Watanabe has liked and collected for a long time.
You can't see it when you put it on, but it's the Japanese aesthetic of subtraction.
Half back of cupra only in front.
TAILOR MADE PANTS
color _ AUTHENTIC INDIGO × KAKISHIBU
There are countless black clothes in the world, and there are so many that I am tired of seeing them, but this black is black that "no one has ever met."
COTTLE's "SenkohSuiu no Black".
After layering the real indigo dyeing, it is dyed thickly and thickly, and then dyed with persimmon tannin.
"Indigo dyeing + persimmon juice dyeing" Unprecedented, unprecedented, unprecedented black.
Is this the black Mr. Watanabe creates?
Super shock black color.
The dyeing method that everyone finds attractive is double.
As for the touch of the fabric, it's crunchy at first, just like Brown's persimmon mordant, but I feel that it's not just that.
I think the texture is slightly different from persimmon mordant. What does it feel like to touch it?
I don't think this can be experienced without this fabric.
According to Mr. Watanabe, this "indigo dye + persimmon juice dye" black color is strong at first, but if you keep wearing it and wash it, "blue" will come out from the back.
At first, from the surface of the persimmon tannin, the indigo dye gradually begins to peek out over time.
I think it's exactly what COTTLE thinks is a color that tells the story of "beautification over time".
The outline of this trouser is, as you can see, one-tucked and tapered.
The whole thing looks simple, such as the amount of hips, the rise, and the waist, but it's a well-made dimensional balance.
Unlike the clothes worn on the upper half of the body, pants tend to carry a lot of weight, and you can really feel how the fabric changes and adapts to it. i think it's the best.
TAILOR MADE SHIRT
And here is the shirt.
This time there are two variations of the shirt, but this is the only one with an open front.
As we have announced so far, we use super special fabrics, but at SenkohSuiu, the "use" of the fabrics varies depending on the type of clothes.
For example, in this shirt, the fabric is "horizontal". In other words, in the ZEN JACKET and TAILOR MADE PANTS mentioned earlier, the characteristic yarn knots of "Hardman's Hemp" appear in the horizontal direction. Because it is used for the weft. However, in this TAILOR MADE SHIRT, the Hardman's Hemp section appears vertically.
By using it horizontally, the high-density fabric is not too tight, and the vertical drape is created.
Body and arms.
Gathers on the back.
The cuffs are hand-stitched and folded.
In addition, the collar is designed with a single collar that does not have a base collar, but it has double stitches at narrow intervals that play the role of a base collar so that the collar can return to the desired location.
The hem of the bodice is cut off.
This is a coloring that represents "fermentation".
"AUTHENTIC INDIGO (real indigo dyeing)", "VERDURE INDIGO (real indigo dyeing + dead stock indigo)" and "madder dyeing" are hand-painted at the atelier using these three natural dyes on the unbleached base fabric. applied.
The hand-painted expression that seeps into the fabric expresses the three primary colors, the random shots of light, and the state of fermentation.
Of course, if you have an order, the way you enter will be different for each piece. Superb hand painting.
I also had this TAILOR MADE SHIRT FERMENTATION made.
Well, I asked for it at the very last minute, so I was finally able to wear it today. smile
I was really looking forward to it.
An overwhelming favourite.
Because it's amazing. Also this shirt.
TAILOR MADE SHIRT
AUTHENTIC INDIGO is "real indigo dyeing".
It is also used in the hand painting of FERMENTATION earlier.
After all, everyone has heard of indigo dyeing, but the level of depth is overwhelmingly different from denim indigo dyeing.
It's the same navy blue, but in a different dimension.
That's what Kaneta's fabric is made of, so people who like it may not be able to escape.
This shirt is a single layer with no lining.
One of the features of COTTLE is that a leather power button can be attached to the back of the button on a shirt like this.
And the brand name attached to all clothes.
This tag is also called "fantastic fabric", "white mustache".
I didn't know about this fabric until I came across COTTLE, but in the olden days, there was a fabric used by fishermen for kimonos where unintended knots popped out when we untied the "fishing net" and woven it. that's right.
The fabric was used as field clothes for private use.
"Higetsumugi" reflects the Japanese spirit of valuing things and using them up.
And based on the mustache, the words of Kichinosuke Tonomura, the first director of the Kurashiki Folk Crafts Museum, are written.
"Healthy and Lean, Serious and Not Boastful"
"Have wisdom and responsibility in manufacturing"
This is a word that the artists who create things in Kurashiki, a town of folk crafts, still cherish and inherit.
And COTTLE always cherishes that word and makes clothes very sincerely. It's a level of clothes that can't be produced otherwise.
That's why it's written on the white barley.
I feel that I am making clothes that surpass the realm of mere "fashion items" by facing the making of clothes, and I think that is exactly the point where such things are visibly manifested.
By the way, in this TAILOR MADE SHIRT, the armhole.
There are other things that have piping on the inside, but it is also "piping of mustache" that matches the coloring of the outer material.
I wonder if it's the rarest piping in the world. smile
Also, this shirt is basically sewn by a sewing machine, but as I mentioned earlier, there are hand stitches everywhere.
The sleeves are also attached later, and the sleeves and sides are not sewn together.
Well, it's all the same, but if you can see the actual product during the period, I think you'll understand.
And here is another shirt. chapel shirt.
The previous TAILOR MADE SHIRT had a front opening, but this is a pullover.
A shirt designed with "linear" details such as the edge of the neck, front pocket, cuffs, and hem line.
Of course, the pattern is three-dimensional, but the details of the shirt are intentionally made to look straight.
Also, like the previous TAILOR MADE SHIRT, the grain of the fabric is used horizontally. .
That's why it's not cut off, and the edges of the fabric are not sewn in three folds like regular shirts, so they're flat.
In addition to that, the fabric moves very lightly.
I think that the use of fabrics and the way of designing clothes can only be done by someone who can make clothes from start to finish by himself.
The more you look at LEAF VEIN clothes, the more you will be surprised by the details and the specs you've never seen before.
Of course, I think you can guess that I'm not just making avant-garde clothes.
This ECRU is "unstained".
In other words, it is a coloring that allows you to experience the quality of Kaneta's fabric without dyeing.
The dyeing done by Mr. Watanabe of COTTLE is also a tremendous variation, but for those who fell in love with this "LEAF VEIN fabric" this time, this non-dyeing is the best, the potential of the material, and the uniqueness of this fabric can be experienced.
It might be good for Kaneta Textile fans. smile
It is certain that you will rarely come across undyed fabrics that are such a power piece in the future.
I can already see it.
It would be nice if you could think that the real thing is 10 billion times higher than the photo.
Well, after all, FERMENTATION seemed to shine the most to me. smile
Please choose according to your preference.
color _ AUTHENTIC INDIGO × KAKISHIBU
And then there is the coat.
Furthermore, as the name suggests, it is "reversible".
"Hasashi" stitching on the back of the collar and hand stitching on the cuffs.
In addition to that, there is also hand embroidery that expresses "leaf veins".
The darts and tailoring from the waist to the chest are also beautifully formed.
Because it has the most volume in the entire lineup, it is also super packed with the power of the appearance that accompanies it.
Here is the back side.
All parts are switched with "Higetsumugi" piping.
And the button is also a water buffalo button with a different coloring from the table.
Furthermore, the pockets and back yoke are dyed differently from the base fabric.
Can you tell from the photo? Well, the actual thing is powerful.
This is an AUTHENTIC INDIGO, so it's an indigo dyeing type.
Because of the nature of the coat, there is a certain amount.
It's reversible and single layered, so it's light and comfortable to wear, but it looks heavy.
As for this reversible series, there is also a short type jacket.
As for the trousers, this GURHKA PANTS also exists together with the "TAILOR MADE PANTS" introduced at the beginning.
For the entire line-up,
・There are two kinds of jackets.
・There are two types of trousers.
・There are two kinds of shirts.
・The reversible series consists of coats and jackets.
It is a lineup of 8 types above.
In this blog, I will introduce all of them. smile
Because there is a "core thread" in the sewing thread of the buttonhole in the coloring of each clothes, and even the combination of "buttonhole stitch" and "core thread" is different depending on the dyeing.
It's not just the buttonhole color. It's a "combination" of the buttonhole stitch color and core thread color.
I gave up on introducing it on the blog because it was too detailed and full of ultra-maniac things.
Of course, at the store, you will be able to look at it as if you were licking it, and I will talk to you about it.
These trousers are designed to be thicker than the TAILOR MADE PANTS introduced earlier.
So, if you like something with a little more volume, this may be more suitable for you.
VERDURE INDIGO and AUTHENTIC INDIGO × KAKISHIBU are colors that you can only experience with COTTLE, but FERMENTATION is my favorite. smile
As I mentioned earlier, there are eight types of clothes in total.
And there are 6 types of color variations in total, including undyed ones.
It seems that only ZEN JACKET and TAILOR MADE PANTS cannot choose FERMENTATION, but after that, you can basically choose all dyes for all shapes.
Samples are prepared covering the whole so that size and all images are easy to make.
Also, for those who have ordered this time, I would like you to think that you will be able to hand it over around the end of July or the beginning of August.
It will be slightly back and forth depending on the dyeing.
There are 5 sizes (0, 1, 2, 3, 4) and 4 sizes (1, 2, 3, 4).
As a general size image, height 167 cm, weight 52 kg, bald, with a lot of beard, jacket 0, shirt 1, pants 0.
It depends on how you wear it.
COTTLE clothes are clothes that have the power to approach the heart of the wearer, rather than just looking outward.
I think that what Mr. Watanabe should express, what he wants to convey to everyone in the world through the clothes of COTLE, and what he believes in are very well included.
For that reason, Kaneta Orimono overcame extremely high hurdles to create the fabric.
Using that as a base, we finish custom-made clothes with our own hands at Kojima's atelier.
The way you approach, the way you put your hands, and the way you spend your time until the clothes are created is amazing.
Price is price, so I think there are some hurdles to getting your hands on it, but I'm sure you'll feel more than that.
Because it's that kind of clothes.
As I said a little bit the other day, there are people who can make clothes in this area that greatly surpasses what Mr. Watanabe makes, and in Okayama Prefecture, which is the production area for clothes.
I was so moved.
That's why I wanted to introduce it to everyone who comes to the store with my own hands.
And on the first day, the 21st (Saturday), Mr. Shiiki, who is always at our store, is not Mr. Watanabe from COTTLE.
I met a super personality, and he was standing in the store last month, and this time he will be there on the first day.
Mr. Watanabe introduced me to the COTTLE brand, and I got this opportunity.
There are countless clothing brands in the world, but I don't know of any other brand that is currently doing the same thing as COTTLE from the point of view of making clothes.
It's a limited period of only 3 days, but if you like it, I'm sure you'll be impressed if you can see it.
Please come and visit us.