Today, I would like to introduce COMOLI.
I was really looking forward to this Spring/Summer COMOLI season.
I think that some people have the impression that COMOLI makes things with a slightly beautiful nuance as a brand image, but that's not the case at all.
Of course, the line-up of clothes that these brands have continued to include, such as Komori shirts and Tyroken coats, are also in the collection, but that's not all.
Exactly one year ago, during the spring/summer season, I wore a striped blouson and coveralls, and during the 22AW season, I wore a wool moleskin work shirt.
What I'm going to introduce to you today.
I think it's quite masculine.
Also, the mood of the COMOLI brand is in the air.
That's the shirt.
linen dot shirt jacket
As the name suggests, this shirt is made of 100% linen with dots printed on it.
It's called a shirt jacket, but depending on the season, it can be a shirt or a shirt jacket.
as an impression. I think it depends on the application.
Let me introduce you.
First, the base fabric.
As mentioned above, it's 100% linen.
The texture is plain weave.
I haven't asked which country the fabric is from, so I don't know, but I think this touch is quite rare these days.
Since it is plain weave linen, it is almost not see-through, so it is a relatively thick linen thread.
However, when it comes to plain weave of thick linen thread, something like a “linen canvas” comes to mind, but that is not the case at all.
This is probably because the dough is loosened with a tumbler or something during the dough stage. It may be different.
Well, I haven't heard it, so I don't know the details.
Then, the surface of the fabric is scratched and "raised".
If you look at the photo, you can see the texture of the fabric with short fluff throughout.
After that, a small dot print.
Partly because the surface is fuzzy, the print of small dots is not evenly placed on the surface, and dark and light areas are scattered.
I think this is an important aim of Mr. Komori of COMOLI.
That's why the appearance is completely different depending on the parts of the clothes.
Here is a photo of the left sleeve.
This is the right sleeve.
If you put the two side by side,
Do you understand? ?
The density of the dot print is different on the left and right sleeves.
Of course, this difference is different for each one.
I think that's the big thing with this shirt.
It's happening in all parts.
So it might have a bit of a patchwork feel to it.
Well, when you actually wear it, I don't think you can really tell because the dots are so small.
However, the dots on this slightly brushed 100 linen fabric definitely add to the vibe of this shirt.
As for the shape of the shirt, the collar is designed with a single collar that does not have a base collar.
I wouldn't go so far as to call it an open collar, but it's best to wear it with the top button open.
The shape of the collar is also handsome.
Instead of a straight collar, it draws a curve and has a sharp point at the tip of the collar.
The wool moleskin shirt that appeared in the autumn/winter season had a similar upper collar.
Well, this COMOLI shirt also has a cool stitch work.
Do you understand?
The needle movement is quite fine, and the surface of the fabric has a bulge that contains fluff, so the stitches are buried.
I think this will improve with repeated washings.
And it's not just the collar, but other sewing parts.
This is the point.
This is unique to COMOLI.
I don't think you can see it at all in the picture because the needle movement of the winding stitch is too fine.
I still think that COMOLI is the best brand in Japan at present.
I wonder if people in Tokyo are sewing circles again this time?
Before, Mr. Komori from COMOLI told me that he asks a "roll sewing craftsman" who does all the winding sewing alone in the mountains of Tokyo to sew the shirts and the like.
The 100% linen fabric this time is incredibly difficult to sew, but it is beautifully sewn in various places.
The part that continues from the side body to the inner sleeve, and the armhole with strong roundness.
And the joint between the front body and the back body.
"Real" winding stitching everywhere.
Normally, even for fabrics that are difficult to sew like this, if you try to sew a roll, you will basting it once, joining it together, and then adding a double-needle chain stitch to make it look like a "rolling stitch". I think most of the brands are
However, no matter where you look at this, it has genuine winding stitching.
Rolling stitches without basting with this soft fabric...
Yaba Yaba Yaba.
Neither the armholes nor the stitching of the front and back bodies have any basting.
Perfect "real" winding stitch.
Of course, the fact that this is a "real" rolled stitch also benefits the person who picks up and wears this shirt.
The coming seasons are spring and summer, and with that, it's easy to sweat.
Well, if you like clothes like this, I'm sure you're thinking about washing them before wearing them.
In such a case, since it is a genuine one-shot rolled stitch, the rolled stitches will be buried in the plain weave linen fabric after repeated washings, and natural seam shrinkage will occur.
Then you get a nice seam puckering.
So, if you continue to wear it, there will be areas where the seam puckering hits and areas where it doesn't hit, and the fluff in the hit points is removed, gloss is born, and further ahead, it gradually withers. It's the reason why a whitish world is waiting for you.
Wearing and washing causes natural and natural changes in clothes.
It is the sewing specification of the winding seam that you can fully feel it.
The seam area will undergo such a natural change, and it is quite possible that the overall dot print will gradually become thinner from the frequently rubbed areas.
If you do that, you can see that it will become a shirt with more depth.
It's not a shirt that you can simply enjoy changing like rigid jeans, but it's a shirt that has a feeling of wearing that is unique to COMOLI's clothes for the spring and summer seasons. this.
So, if you like the way it looks, I think it's a shirt that makes you want to wear it in the spring and summer because it's comfortable and comfortable to wear.
Those of you who own COMOLI's spring/summer clothes may understand, but the texture of the fabric is "dry" to match not only the temperature but also the high humidity in Japan.
The same is true for the linen fabric this time.
The plain weave allows air to pass through easily, and although it is soft, it is somewhat rough and dry.
This is important for staying comfortable during the spring and summer seasons in Japan.
Mr. Komori of COMOLI always considers comfort when wearing such clothes very important.
So, if you wear it comfortably and wash it from time to time, by the time you realize it, it will become a shirt with a very deep expression.
That's what Mr. Komori of COMOLI is aiming for with this shirt. I think so
By the way, the button is a matte water buffalo button.
Looking at the fabric and sewing specifications of this shirt, I think there is still a lot of "blank space".
As you wear it, you can expect it to become even closer to the wearer as it changes.
As for the texture of linen, it's not the type of linen that has fine wrinkles, but the type that has large wrinkles.
Still, it's plain weave and doesn't feel like it's high density, so I think it's going to be a pleasant breeze to pass through.
There is also a print, and on the back side, the dot fabric is placed only on the front cover.
This shirt does not have a back yoke.
There are no cuff openings on the cuffs.
It is best to have the sleeves rolled up and worn.
There is also a seasonal pattern, so it is a shirt that you can expect a lot of changes from here.
I think it gives a very masculine impression, and I think it's good for people who like this sort of thing.
I'm 167cm tall, weighed 53kg for the last few days and wear size 1.
I think the size is a little roomy.
It has a square hem, a boxy silhouette without a waist shape, and the cuffs are slightly roomier so that they can be rolled up.
But, well, I don't think you need to go down in size just because of that.
I wonder if COMOLI's usual size choice is fine.
It doesn't show up very well, but it goes well with my uniform, the Araki Yuu Knickerbockers.
The dots don't look strangely flashy when worn, and I think it sets a pretty good mood.
Well, it's a matter of taste.
If you like it, please take a look.