Today, let me introduce COMOLI for the first time in a while.
Like the tilt The authentics that we announced yesterday, COMOLI will be on sale at stores from 12:00 on Sunday, August 1st.
・Twisted Moku Work Shirt -BLUE-
・Denim 5P Pants -BLEACH-
・Product dye jacket -NAVY-
・Product dyed back strap pants -NAVY-
lineup from tomorrow.
Today, I would like to introduce denim 5P pants.
By the way, it's the same fabric as the denim I introduced in yesterday's blog, but the processing is different.
COMOLI
denim 5P pants
material_COTTON 100%
color_BLEACH
size_1,2
price _ \39,600-(tax included)
*Sold out
this jeans.
The base is the Levi Strauss 501XX, which reigns at the pinnacle of jeans, with a 38-inch waist.
Mr. Komori of COMOLI wanted to make it thicker, so the feature is that the thighs are larger than the waist compared to ordinary jeans.
this.
But that's not what I want to introduce this time.
Recently, I don't think I've seen many books or websites that describe things like jeans textbooks.
Maybe I just haven't seen it, but when I saw this COMOLI 5-pocket jeans this time, the specifications of Levi's 501XX model, which has been reigning for decades, have been detailed and abundantly installed. So let me introduce you to the specs.
I also write while reviving the memory of when I was a student at a jeans shop in Osaka 10 years ago.
I think those who understand will understand, but this denim is completely double X.
From the middle, it will be like watching a real double X lol
Denim fabric that has been bleached to the limit, although it will rarely come out in 501XX.
Selvage of course.
And the sewing is all yellow "cotton thread" except for the buttonhole.
A rivet for the reinforcement of the pocket mouth which Levi Strauss Corporation brought about a revolution in those days more than 100 years ago.
This rivet is a copper fabric stripped rivet.
It's not clear because it's processed, but there is a faint hit like a lightning bolt in the coin pocket that is born when you wear it from rigid.
This is a surprising part of COMOLI.
Selvage is not placed behind the coin pocket.
Normally, the original double X has a selvedge, but COMOLI does not.
There is also a rivet on the left pocket opening on the opposite side.
These rivets are attached with a special sewing machine, a powerful foot-operated sewing machine for attaching rivets and buttons. You have to be careful when hitting.
This is also an XX original feature, the front opening does not have a gap.
Wasn't Kandome coming from BIG E?
around the waist.
From here on out, the decisive details come into play when judging the original.
If this is vintage, you can tell it's a double X by looking here.
First, this.
Obi ends where the tuck button of the waist belt is attached.
The waist band is sewn on the upper side.
The lower side is sewn with a chain, but when the upper lockstitch reaches the edge of the waist belt, it goes down and reaches the fabric with the button fly (called take-out), then changes the angle and repeats it. It rises to the tuck button side.
This is called a V-stitch.
This is one of the specifications up to Double X.
However, one thing that came to my mind was that when reproducing the 501XX, the rising angle of the lockstitch, that is, the angle of the V stitch, is a little more gradual, so that the stitch goes up to the position where the tuck button is. is normal, but a V that has such a steep angle and is almost parallel is extremely rare. I feel like
I guess this is the angle of the original vintage that Mr. Komori of COMOLI used as a motif.
Jeans made by a Japanese vintage replica brand have a clearer V shape that is easier to understand.
This is it.
yes.
The opposite side of the waist band.
This is a transcendent maniac. I think that.
buttonhole.
You know, the current buttonhole sewing machine can't open this hole shape.
In general, I think that the shape of the flow eyelet is the center in modern times.
However, COMOLI's buttonholes have a teardrop shape, and the stitching width of the sewing machine is very thin.
This can only be done with an old buttonhole sewing machine, and I think there are not many factories that have this buttonhole sewing machine.
Pay attention to this.
When you fasten the button, it's hidden and you can't see it at all.
If this is suddenly a modern hall, it will cool down. I.
This is it.
Next is the back pocket.
Don't miss this place.
It looks normal at first glance, but
is it wrong.
double x.
If you look at the back side, there are two things that are not on the front.
"Hidden Kandome/Hidden Rivet"
This was the lifeline of Levi's Strauss, but at first, the rivets were exposed not only on the back but also on the front.
However, when the copper part is on the front, it will hurt various things when you sit down, so the rivets are built into this "hidden kandome/hidden rivet" specification.
It is an essential item when distinguishing vintage jeans.
In the case of jeans with this concealed specification, at the very beginning of sewing the jeans, the pocket openings are first punched with a Kandome sewing machine, then the rivets are made, and then the pockets are turned over. . sewing line.
I used to work at a sewing factory for a while and sewed, but in the case of this concealed specification, the pocket must be turned upside down at first and the rivets must be attached.
One day, while I was dazed, I came across a pair of jeans from a famous Japanese brand with the sewing specifications for this "hidden candome/hidden rivet", but I accidentally put them upside down. smile
Were you nervous at that time?
After that, I spent three hours working to remove the candome and rivets. smile
The back seam and the attachment of the back yoke are, of course, sewn with chain stitches at the height of the body.
I think this part is also sewn with cotton thread, and this feeling is a sewing machine made by Union Special. I don't know.
Anyway, sewing this roll is difficult.
At that time, it was widely used as work clothes, and I think that the production volume was important anyway. At the same time, I think that the winding specification, which allows you to process the edges of the fabric, was very useful, but I think that the number of people who can do this and the number of sewing machines that can do it are extremely decreasing these days.
I think there are still skilled people in Kojima and Fukuyama, and I think there are a lot of sewing machines, and I think the skills of those people are wonderful.
I practiced whenever I had time for the Union Special, but it was extremely difficult.
The left and right edges don't match up, and the bottom of the pants is round, so the roll collapses near the middle.
When it comes to products, it feels like a matter of course, but it's not.
and a belt loop.
The belt loops of COMOLI's jeans are slightly high in the center, making them "mid-high".
This is also common in modern jeans with flat belt loops, but the center is raised.
The implication of this specification is to prevent the cut of the stitch entering the belt loop.
It is a specification that prevents the thread from being worn out due to the high position of the fabric.
The inside seam is interlocked.
This is for sewing the inner thigh part, which has a long sewing distance, at once, and at the same time as processing the edge of the fabric, it connects the front body and the back body.
It can be said that it is a sewing specification peculiar to jeans.
The hem is a three-wound chain 8mm from the classical hem.
The outside seam is a selvedge split stitch, but here comes COMOLI's maniac.
In general, this type of selvedge denim is made by switching the color of the selvage at the edge of the fabric to make white and colored threads (usually red), but they are all the same color.
I think that "red ears" can be seen when rolled up, but I guess that's not the point. Aim.
This feeling.
Otherwise, I don't think I'd go out of my way to make my ears the same color.
Also, I think there are pros and cons to this for those who like it, but the selvage of the split stitch is not neatly split. smile
In terms of vintage, it feels like a really bad pair of jeans that the original owner didn't care about breaking the ears at all. In a good way.
The sewing of the split stitch of the outside seam is single (lockstitch).
Surprisingly.
Double X, was it a chain or a single?
Forgot.
Well, the purpose of this pair of jeans would be a shade that would never exist in a vintage 501XX.
The color of denim that has become a ridiculously light blue.
Therefore, there are considerable color unevenness and individual differences due to processing one by one.
Also, yes.
Due to the intense processing, some stitches have been cut from the new state like this.
We talked about this with Mr. Komori from COMOLI last season, and at our store, we accept COMOLI clothes in this condition.
The reason is what COMOLI is aiming for.
Mr. Komori of COMOLI is aiming for clothes that will become genuine second-hand clothes (vintage) in 50 years.
50 years from now, it will be lined up in second-hand clothing stores, just like vintage house brands are today.
Here, second-hand clothing stores are not brand-name second-hand clothing stores or simply second-hand clothing stores.
Of course, if there is a part of the garment that is not suitable for the customer, we cannot sell it to the customer, but if it is a well-established garment, we consider it OK and display it in the store.
In the photo above, the stitching at the edge of the pocket has been severed due to the intense processing, but it is also possible that it was sewn with cotton thread. Considering that, it's not bad.
I can think of it as a part that matches the mood of the clothes Mr. Komori is aiming for.
However, if the same thing happens with other brands we handle, we will immediately declare it defective or check with the brand.
It's not that it's special treatment because it's COMOLI, but the goal of COMOLI clothes that Mr. Komori aims for is "to be mistaken for second-hand clothes". But it's the same as old clothes.
At our store, we empathize with the clothes Mr. Komori of COMOLI thinks about and the clothes he actually makes.
These jeans will also go on sale tomorrow at 12:00 on Sunday, August 1st.
Please note that due to the intention of the brand, this product will only be sold in stores until next Friday.
