Today, I'd like to introduce calmlence, which had its final delivery for Collection 003.
There are two items: a jacket and trousers that can be worn as a set.
These two items have a fabric mood that I haven't forgotten since I first saw them at the exhibition.
It made me realize Mr. Kumagai's amazing talent all over again.
And that talent truly shines when you actually wear them.
That's the kind of jacket and trousers these are.
calmlence
PEAKED LAPEL SACK COAT
material _ WOOL 56%,LINEN 39%,HEMP 5%
color _ DBRD
size _ 1,2,3
calmlence
PEAKED LAPEL SACK COAT
material _ WOOL 56%,LINEN 39%,HEMP 5%
color _ BLK
size _ 1,2,3
This is the jacket.
And
calmlence
TRIPLE PLEATED WIDE TAPERED TROUSER
material _ WOOL 56%,LINEN 39%,HEMP 5%
color _ DBRD
size _ 1,2,3
calmlence
TRIPLE PLEATED WIDE TAPERED TROUSER
material _ WOOL 56%,LINEN 39%,HEMP 5%
color _ BLK
size _ 1,2,3
These are the trousers.
Can you tell how incredibly cool they are?
The appearance of the jacket and trousers.
I was really looking forward to introducing these to you.
The jacket is a "new style" that makes its debut in the brand's collection.
The trousers are a signature piece that symbolizes calmlence.
And as I mentioned at the beginning, it's all about the fabric.
This is amazing.
The fiber composition is something you'd rarely encounter outside of calmlence.
・Wool (worsted) 56%
・Linen 39%
・Hemp 5%
That's the composition.
This.
An enlargement of the DBRD fabric.
An enlargement of the BLK fabric.
In both colorways, black worsted wool is used for the warp threads.
And for the weft threads,
DBRD uses dark bordeaux linen yarn.
BLK uses dark navy linen yarn.
The fabric is woven with these threads.
I think the enlarged photo of the DBRD fabric above makes it clear.
The black-looking threads are the worsted wool warp threads.
The weft threads are dark bordeaux linen.
The fabric structure is called "basketweave".
Basketweave is similar to plain weave, but the number of intersecting warp and weft threads is different.
If you look closely at the dark bordeaux linen threads, you might notice that two threads are arranged together, creating a "doubled" state.
The same applies to the warp threads.
If you look even closer, the fabric has a textured surface, with diagonal patterns emerging like diamonds.
A structure with diagonal, diamond-like patterns emerging.
According to Mr. Kumagai, if utilized effectively, the basketweave used in this original calmlence fabric allows the "threads to move" when washed.
Mr. Kumagai said there are two ways to make the fabric appear diagonal or diamond-shaped like this.
1: Designing the structure to be diagonal.
2: Designing a diamond-like pattern.
These two.
This time, it's a fabric "designed to be diagonal in structure."
Therefore, with the aim of "making the threads move" through washing, the fabric is put into a special washing machine during the finishing process to create distortion and movement in the fabric.
This highlights the diagonal structure, like a diamond, created by the design.
This original fabric by Mr. Kumagai utilizes the characteristics of "basketweave."
Furthermore...
The fiber content includes just 5% hemp.
This is also incredible.
Both the warp and weft threads are irregularly arranged blended yarns, combining "wool and hemp."
Moreover, when dyeing these wool-hemp blended yarns, a technique was used to "dye only the wool black" by leveraging the differences in fiber properties.
This means that in the enlarged fabric photos above, the "whitish threads" are undyed hemp.
The wool is dyed black, blending in with the worsted wool warp, while only the undyed hemp subtly peeks through.
This technique is a "kasuri" (ikat) expression that symbolizes Mr. Kumagai's skill.
DBRD and BLK.
While they have different expressions, they both exude a strong vintage feel.
They pair perfectly with the buffalo horn buttons used by calmlence.
For DBRD, where the warp and weft colors are distinctly different, the structure stands out, making it appear more prominent.
Within that, you'll find the "kasuri essence" of calmlence emerging here and there.
Calmlence fabrics are formed with multiple layers of Mr. Kumagai's magic, so they possess incredible depth. The more you look, the more you see.
BLK is made of "black wool" and "dark navy linen," after all.
It's completely different from simply creating a "black color."
Moreover, like DBRD, it contains kasuri threads.
And then there's the diagonal unevenness of the fabric created by its structure.
The actual product is an absolutely superb match of profoundness and depth.
This new style of jacket features peaked lapels with pointed tips.
Since a brass hook is hand-attached, it can also be worn as a stand-collar jacket.
It has three buttons at the front and round, externally attached pockets without corners.
It features high-set sleeves that are higher than the body, and a breast pocket.
Even though the fabric has a very strong presence, I believe this jacket, thanks to Mr. Kumagai's tailoring, also offers a soft and gentle feel.
There are two buttons on the cuffs.
When the sleeves are folded, the cotton-rayon twill lining stands out.
Back.
Like old European jackets, the seam between the front and back body is slid towards the back body.
It is said that this method makes the shoulder outline look neat and clean when viewed from the front while wearing it, as the fabric seam is not visible.
And the classic side vents.
Is it a rule that peaked lapel jackets have side vents?
I've forgotten such basic rules, but both peaked lapels and side vents are rarely seen these days.
Rather, I feel that both peaked lapels and side vents make jackets exhibit a "unique strength" more prominently than fishmouth or center-vented jackets.
Perhaps these kinds of clothes are no longer something that various designers can casually attempt anymore.
I think for this kind of clothing, the maker's sense, intuition, and skill truly matter. That's what I believe.
That's why I think it's difficult to create something truly stylish unless you're at Mr. Kumagai's level.
And the back.
Calmlence's lining is also incredibly cool.
The body lining is also original.
A very alluring floral jacquard fabric.
Since it's half-lined, areas without lining are finished with piping.
And the side vents are framed.
A sharply framed side vent with perfectly defined corners.
The inside also has a lot of hand-finished details, and the sleeve lining is also hand-stitched.
This allows for soft movement in the shoulders.
Also, the piped edge of the lining fabric is hand-stitched to the body.
This is to prevent the lining attachment stitches from interfering with the exterior of the garment.
And these parts were also sewn by hand.
Can you see the white thread?
When you look closely at the details of calmlence clothing, you'll find it's full of specifications that would now be considered inefficient.
The brand hasn't talked much about it, but when you wear and use clothes that have been made with such time and care, you can definitely feel the difference.
I think it's clothing that quietly tells that story.
The trousers have no waistband and feature three pleats at the front.
With three pleats at the front, the thigh width exceeds 40cm, giving it volume, but the hem tapers sharply.
This form embodies the incredibly moody aesthetic of calmlence.
And the compatibility with the fabric's atmosphere is exceptional.
High-backed with a V-shape.
It also comes with a brass cinch-back, and the pockets are asymmetrical.
Although the front has a lot of volume with three pleats, the hip area feels more compact compared to the front.
Also, the crotch line is far from ordinary.
I wonder how it's made; I might ask Mr. Kumagai next time. It's truly amazing.
These trousers combine volume and sharpness, and they show a magnificent change in expression depending on the wearer's movements.
Back.
This also has a half-lined specification.
Since the fabric has a considerable sense of weight, I think these pants are excellent for autumn and winter.
Even the inside of the pants has a good vibe.
When you lift the waistband lining, you'll find a folded, double-layered waistband core, as shown.
This provides a comfortable fit around the waist when wearing these voluminous trousers, and a sense of security as a result.
This detail is also one that Mr. Kumagai has repeatedly refined by wearing calmlence clothes himself and striving to create better products.
It seems that Mr. Kumagai places great importance on "how it physically feels when actually worn" as an element that speaks to the level of the brand's clothing.
Therefore, I believe that owners can wear calmlence clothing with great confidence.
Wearing.
I am 167cm tall and weigh 52kg, and I'm wearing size 1 for both.
As a reference, for those in the early 170cm range, size 1 would be appropriate, although this depends on your build.
For those in the mid-170cm range, size 2.
And for those around 180cm, perhaps size 3?
Well, if you're not already familiar with calmlence's sizing, please feel free to consult us with any questions.
The jacket has a strong classic element with shoulders that fit just right, providing an appropriate fit.
In contrast, the trousers feature a voluminous thigh from the three pleats at the waist.
And from there, a beautifully flowing tapered silhouette.
Even the back view has a mature, well-defined balance, wouldn't you agree?
Honestly, a bordeaux-like color is incredibly difficult to incorporate into clothing.
So, you probably wouldn't often come across a set-up in this color if you were searching for one.
While it's not a color that everyone finds easy to wear, I think it would be excellent for those who appreciate this kind of shade.
DBRD.
BLK.
BLK, as expected, exudes the calmlence vibe.
BLK transcends time.
Both colorways will look splendid in elegant settings, and I believe they will also harmonize wonderfully with strong- 분위기 (atmosphere) clothing when worn individually for everyday use.
Mr. Kumagai has been making clothes for over 30 years.
Calmlence creates clothing where everything, from fabric development to the final product, is strongly connected in a continuous flow.
I believe these are truly unique jackets and trousers.
As mentioned at the beginning, this concludes our calmlence Collection 003.
Something quite remarkable has appeared at the end, so if you're interested, please consider it.