AUBETT, which we announced earlier, will start on the 18th (Saturday), and yesterday we introduced the brand's collection.
As we announced, this is the last season for AUBETT, which Mr. Sugihara is working on, but it will appear last.
AUBETT × CASANOVA&CO
This time it's a shirt.
Of course, you can wear it from now on, and because of the characteristics of the fabric, I think you can use it even in the hot summer.
As previously announced, this will be the last time Mr. Sugihara will be in the store as an AUBETT designer.
However, I wasn't thinking of making a so-called "bespoke order" for this timing.
As I told you yesterday, I made enough good things in the collection.
One day last summer, the AUBETT exhibition.
In addition to the lineup I announced yesterday, among the AUBETT clothes I've seen so far, there was a shirt that stood out.
It doesn't feel very normal, and it clearly has some peculiarities.
It might not be for everyone, but I was really drawn to it and couldn't forget that shirt.
The texture of the fabric, the construction of the draping, and the perfect compatibility with Araki Yuu's knickerbockers, which I always wear at the uniform level.
On top of that, it was a sunny summer day at the exhibition, so I tried wearing it outside for a while to see if I could wear it in the summer as well.
Then it will be cool even in summer. and.
That's why I submitted a certain amount to the brand at the time of ordering.
However, when I wore the collection sample and stood in front of the mirror, there was a small detail that Mr. Sugihara made that caught my attention.
That's what I was telling you at the time.
However, I liked the shirt so much that I didn't care about it, so as I said earlier, I ordered a suitable number.
Time passed from there, and one day I got a call from Mr. Sugihara.
Let's change the details of that shirt to my liking. It was a proposal contact to that effect.
From there, a fire ignited in my heart.
So, this time, as a result, I think I was able to change the quality of the shirts that originally existed in the collection in a more positive way.
What's more, after Mr. Sugihara told me the details that I liked, in order to further polish it, he performed draping again and remade it.
For that reason, we didn't think about special orders or exclusives from the beginning, but as a shop, we think that we have created something very good for our customers to see.
I'm a huge fan too.
Of course, the clothes will be released at this time, so they are perfect for the coming season.
If you don't want to move around actively under the scorching sun even in the summer, Momantai.
Furthermore, due to the characteristics of this material, it is suitable for innerwear in winter.
A true "all-year material". Impossibly excellent.
What's more, it's the original standard fabric of Mr. Sugihara and Mr. Weaver, but it seems that this fabric structure has been picked up by the textile industry around the world and has become the center of attention.
A special fabric of that level.
Well, since the shape has changed, I don't know how many people will use it as an inner layer. smile
AUBETT × CASANOVA&CO
LONG LENGTH SHIRTS
fabric _ Cotton x Summer Wool Felted Soccer
material _ WOOL 76%, COTTON 24%
A long-length shirt that makes full use of "draping".
My theme for the recent spring/summer season,
In hot weather, "You can wear it like a shirt, but it's not a regular shirt."
The simple and clear image is shaped with the best balance. this.
First, the fabric.
The expression of the fabric is not smooth, but very uneven.
This is an original fabric that Mr. Sugihara has been developing for many years with "Mitsuboshi Yen" in Gifu Prefecture.
I've heard about Mihoshi from Mr. Sugihara and other designers of various brands, but I've never been to a weaving shop.
Kaneta-san, Kuzuri-san, and Yamaei-san are the only weavers I have ever visited.
Shall we go next time?
Well, leave that alone
As mentioned above, this original fabric is 76% wool and 24% cotton.
The structure of the fabric is a "plain weave", although it is complicated enough that you can't understand it at all even if you look at the picture.
Those of you who know AUBETT may know, but this fabric has been pursued by Mr. Sugihara for the past few seasons.
In the fall/winter season of 2010, there was something similar with the same mix ratio.
But this time, it's completely different.
The fabric for the autumn/winter season of 2022 was a glen check made with five colors.
This time, the fabric was dyed at the thread stage with only one color from Mr. Sugihara's extremely detailed color sample.
However, the actual fabric looks like "two colors".
Due to the material characteristics of wool and cotton, fabrics that use the effect of not being the same even if they are dyed in the same color.
And this fabric, whether it looks like a pattern or a solid color, is all "patterned organization".
This is an unprecedented “application of glen check” that Mr. Sugihara and Mr. Samsung aimed for.
When Mr. Sugihara started the concept of this fabric, he wanted to express the "beauty that exists in the natural world" with the woven fabric.
It is the texture that humans find beautiful in animals that grow in harsh environments, such as ostriches and lizards.
There are various fabric processing to express such unevenness in the simplest way.
However, with simple fabric processing, the expression will inevitably look “mechanical”.
what it isn't.
He thought about it in various ways.
That's how he came up with the idea of "application of glen check".
Well, I don't think designers usually come up with such applications.
Mr. Sugihara is also a superhuman professional when it comes to fabrics.
The fabric called Glen Check is a structure that allows you to express the pattern by inserting "countless lines" with threads in a large lattice pattern.
Because it is possible to insert "infinite lines", there are variations that feel infinite.
Mr. Sugihara and Mr. Mitsuboshi Keito discussed this over and over again, deciding which line to put the cotton in, and which line to put the wool in.
And should they be arranged alternately or side by side? Mr. Sugihara repeated trial and error to find the best expression with the fabric he was aiming for.
As a result, we came up with the idea of arranging a “patterned structure” even in places that appear to be plain, and then performing “felling” on the fabric to make the most of the unique texture of this material.
It's a plain weave, but it's an organization that I've never seen before.
There are parts that have risen, and there are places that are no longer in focus.
However, as a result, it is very uneven, away from the skin, and the touch of the fabric is the best balance for the Japanese climate, and the fabric has a completely unique appearance that can only be found here.
The original fabric that was completed in that way.
I used it to guide me.
Let me introduce you to the details.
The one that existed as a collection sample also had a collar, but Mr. Sugihara once again adjusted the width of the collar and the position of the turn to match this shirt.
The shirt has a slightly stronger front neckline, so it has a one-piece collar that does not have a base collar.
Slightly deeper square patch pocket with flap on the front.
The shape of this pocket is also one of the points that I changed to my liking.
The one in the collection has a flap, but the shape of the patch pocket was different and it was attached to both breasts.
I thought about getting rid of the flap for this pocket, but at first it looked neat and looked good, but the more I used it, the more it popped open and floated.
The flap was necessary even in the sense of suppressing the opening of the pocket opening.
Also, when a patch pocket without a flap is placed on the chest, for example, when wearing a bangle, it gets caught in the pocket opening, and a sudden load is applied to the bangle, causing it to deform. There was
I always wear a DAN TOMIMATSU ENLINK series bangle, but I've experienced several times that it would get caught in the open chest patch pocket when I was raising and lowering my hand.
That's why the patch pocket on the chest of this kind of clothes needs a flap to prevent the pocket from opening.
Also, in the collection sample, there were pockets on both chests, but I felt that having both would make the work feel a little stronger.
However, if both of them were eliminated, it was thought that the length of the dress would make it look more like women's wear.
In that sense, it was best to have a visually sharp and deep square shape with sharp corners, which I like.
Also, I smoke, but I don't want to put it in my pants pocket.
Because the form around the waist of the pants collapses.
That's why I needed a place where I could fit my upper body even in the season when I wore light clothes.
Specifications that the attachment end of the flap is not visible.
The inside of the flap is also the outer material.
The inside fold of the patch pocket is not cut off, but is carefully overlocked to handle the edge of the fabric.
Special front button.
This is a button made from sugar cane.
They usually use water buffalo buttons for this type of clothing, but for the texture of this fabric, sugarcane buttons are best because they are matte and have a unique color.
It seems that it is a button that was warmed for this purpose.
The sleeves are designed with Mr. Sugihara's three-dimensional cutting, so if you lay them flat, they won't be flat.
A sleeve that becomes a mysterious shape.
Side view of the sleeve.
Triangular sleeves with shoulders as the apex and a bulging apex at the back.
Sometimes you see sleeves that swing forward. It's completely different from
And the swelling of the sleeves when viewed from the side, the volume is gathered at once at the cuffs.
The outline of this sleeve.
It's pretty silly.
It looks voluminous, but it's incredibly sharp.
I think this workmanship is currently the No. 1 arm for our 2023 Spring/Summer season.
And this cuff design.
I wanted to place the cuff button here for a long cuff with no stitching.
This is what I think is the best cuff shape so far.
By doing this, the cuffs spread along the back of the hand when worn.
A style that fits the structure of the human hand and makes the hand look the most elegant in my opinion.
By the way, the sleeves themselves are double sleeves to maintain the three-dimensional shape and create a natural cuff opening.
As a sewing specification, it is all lockstitched.
It's basically a fold-down stitch.
Only the inside of the aforementioned pocket is overlocked.
Bodice side, folded down.
Hem, tri-fold final sewing.
They put the letters CASANOVA&CO on it.
The same goes for armholes.
Depending on the fabric, there are shirts with overlocks here, but this shirt is folded down.
This specification also lends strength to the form around the shoulders.
Regarding the sewing thread, the upper thread (on the front side) is a thick 30 count thread, which is rare for shirts.
This thickness is commonly used for outerwear.
For shirts, a slightly thinner, 50-count sewing thread is usually used.
However, the details and design of this long shirt often follow from things other than shirts, so the sewing thread is also stitched with the thread used for outerwear.
This is pretty effective.
Because it looks completely different.
I am 167cm tall, weigh 53kg and wear a size 4.
Normally, I wear the smallest size for most clothes, not just AUBETT, but this is the middle size, size 4.
The reason for size 4 is that I want to experience the three-dimensional shape more than size 3. smile
That's why I have a size 3 ready, but it's only one.
This is for those who like tight fitting as much as possible and those who are smaller than me.
Basically, it would be nice if you could think of it as two sizes, size 4 and 5.
This molding beauty.
I don't know of any designer other than Mr. Sugihara who can produce such a form in a Japanese brand.
In our line-up, toogood and Isabella Stafanelli are close to this, or maybe they are directing a form in a similar direction.
I have never met anyone other than Mr. Sugihara among Japanese people.
This is in new condition.
However, new products have exceeded the level of satisfaction, but have not reached the emotional level.
Not here, ideally.
In the first place, I assume that this fabric will be washed and used 20 times, 30 times, and more.
If you do that, the goodness of the material and the potential of the fabric will be drawn out more and more.
Because Mr. Sugihara has repeatedly and repeatedly washed the fabric to prove it.
That's what the stereoscopic cutting is for.
For example, it is important to make clothes that are rounded by iron work instead of patterns, but it will be destroyed by washing.
On the other hand, if it is "formation with a pattern" using draping, the form will not change even if you wash it over and over.
So, if you get it, wash it once first.
Then your score will go up tremendously.
Since it's already fulled, the shrinkage rate is stable even if it contains wool, and by washing it, the fabric and form will match perfectly.
The photos from here are the actual production.
Look like you're licking your shirt.
I unlocked it a week ago.
I have already washed it twice.
"Depth of the fabric" and "design of draping" are matched at a high level, and everything is "integrated".
This is the clothes Mr. Sugihara makes.
Due to the difference in shrinkage ratio between wool and cotton, the expression of the fabric is greatly improved.
And the flowing outline that is created at a position away from the body.
The sleeves fit nicely inside the drape of the body.
And the target cuffs.
The outline spreads softly along the back of the hand.
Well, I have very short hands, so my hands are covered with cuffs, but for everyone else, the sleeves are designed to fit better.
Starting from the back yoke, the drapes behind Mr. Sugihara's design.
On the front, the armholes are hidden inside the body.
This is proof that all of the clothes are integrated, not just parts.
When you move your hands, everything is integrated, so the fabric moves along with your back and waist and follows you.
A few months from now, as long sleeves.
After that, just roll up the sleeves, open the front and put it on easily.
During the sweaty season, I think that by repeatedly washing it, you will be able to experience the quality of this shirt even more, both in terms of appearance and when you wear it.
As for the shrinkage due to washing, according to the shrinkage rate data taken by Mr. Sugihara, the shrinkage is 1cm in the vertical direction, and less than that in the horizontal direction.
I also measured the one that was actually washed twice and the new one, but the values were exactly the same.
Please see the information below.
<New size 4>
Shoulder width: 52cm
Sleeve length: 59.5cm
<size 4 after 2 washes>
Shoulder width: 52cm
Sleeve length: 58.5cm
It is the above numerical value.
That's why I think most people don't feel any shrinkage even after washing.
And this shirt.
¥37,000- (tax included ¥40,700-).
Mr. Sugihara, I think you offered it at a very good price.
When this kind of draping is done, considering the time taken, including the technique, what is put on is markedly different from usual, and the quality of the fabric is perfect.
However, I would like you to lower the hurdles as much as possible, learn about "drawing" and the "technique" of the weaver and experience it. It expresses what Mr. Sugihara is thinking.
As for clothes, I truly believe that we have created something that cannot be found anywhere else at this price.
I would appreciate it if you could consider it.
As we announced, we will be selling at the store from the 18th (Sat).
On the 18th (Saturday), together with Mr. Sugihara, we are looking forward to your visit.