AUBETT of our store last season that we announced yesterday.
As I told you, it will start on the 18th (Sat).
All day on the 18th (Sat) and until the evening of the 19th (Sun).
Mr. Sugihara, the designer, will also be in the store, so whether you have met us before or for the first time, we hope you will look forward to visiting us.
And the “3D cutting” that I touched on yesterday.
"Three-dimensional cutting" itself is a technique used in the production process of several brands that we also carry.
Some brands go there to create the form of clothes.
However, this is very limited for Japanese brands.
Furthermore, what Mr. Sugihara is doing among them is completely different from the "drawing theory", completely unique way of thinking and method.
At the foundation of this is the creation of European women's clothing around the 1950s, which is based on the idea of creating drapes away from the body.
I wonder if this era can be compared to the era when the war ended and it was a spiritually rich era.
I think it was around the time when the culture of clothes was introduced into Japan.
It is not a body conscious type that emphasizes the lines of the body, but "attractive clothes" that make you feel beautiful and gorgeous even though you can't see the actual contours of your body.
However, at that time, there weren't as many variations of fabrics as there are today.
It was clearly a way of making clothes in a finite environment.
That seems to be on record.
If that is the case, why did you make the “difference” of clothes at that time?
That was the game with "clothes pattern".
It seems that such clothes making was most popular from the 1940s to the 1960s.
If you're a man, your options are even more limited than now, in short, the world of suits.
But back then, women didn't have the same restrictions as men's clothing.
The figures of women wearing Western-style clothes are reflected in black-and-white photographs that still remain today.
All of those clothes have a very beautiful form that you don't see very often these days.
It's a pattern technique.
However, the technique and the way of thinking were only in the "ladies' world".
It seems that he has been working for years and years to go to existing maisons that are known to everyone in the world, accumulate experience there, and further pursue in it.
And the technique that I accumulated and learned by myself.
The technology is designed by Mr. Sugihara, "created for men's" original draping.
one weekend day.
Even now, I continue to do draping every weekend.
A “transparent piece of cloth” that has almost no weight.
It seems that it is very important to use a thin cloth at this time.
If the fabric is thick, it will drape due to the weight of the fabric itself, which can be deceiving.
That's why Mr. Sugihara uses thin and light fabrics to make toiles over and over again.
The body that Mr. Sugihara has been using for a long time.
It's a rare body that realistically reproduces the details of the bones of the human body.
It seems that there are not many in particular with such a precise skeleton.
It's the body of a man.
Using that body, Mr. Sugihara gives a 3D cut, and what was just a flat, flimsy piece of cloth is given a shape in the blink of an eye.
Insert the scissors, pierce with pins, and match the outline of the male body.
And the splendid drape produced.
It is never excessive, but a splendid "formal beauty".
There is a “space” inside every piece of clothing that Mr. Sugihara makes.
The “space” is intended to be ready-made clothes that are made for unspecified people, but that anyone can wear them according to Mr. Sugihara’s “outline as designed”.
Humans come in many different body types, don't they?
And even for the same person, their physique changes in a complicated way in a single day.
Laughing, crying, getting angry,,, even if you eat rice, people change.
When a person laughs, the clothes he wears can laugh with him.
After eating rice, you can snuggle up to the change in the wearer's body shape in a true sense.
“People change a lot during the day, so it is very important that clothes change with them.”
It seems that he learned this from a very prestigious craftsman in Europe.
Mr. Sugihara uses three-dimensional cutting to create clothes that are close to the wearer.
It is designed so that the clothes follow the wearer.
I guess you could call it clothing that accompanies you.
It's both physically and mentally.
That's why new clothes have a lot of "mental blanks" when you first get them.
You can really feel that from the clothes Mr. Sugihara creates.
Sugihara designs "drapes" where "space" exists and is separated from the body.
The "space" and "drapes" created from Mr. Sugihara's ideas and techniques.
Something very close to that is said to have been applied to the clothes worn by women 60 to 80 years ago.
This is super inventive.
This is because, as a result, it has a very large and positive effect on the inside of the person who wears it.
For that reason, Mr. Sugihara's original "drawing".
By the way, with normal brands, when developing sizes, there is a central size, and grading is done by reducing or increasing the size from there.
But Mr. Sugihara is not like that.
It's not just a size pitch that changes dimensions, but all sizes are "drafted" to create a range of sizes.
I have never heard of such a brand.
That's why I'm a designer who spends a lot of time making all kinds of clothes.
I think that the concentration of each piece is extremely high.
First of all, today I would like to introduce the AUBETT collection that will start on the 18th (Sat).
Most of the items are men's, but there are some women's items as well, so I'd appreciate it if women could also take a look.
Regular color shirts that have been developed as the center of the brand lineup so far.
It's called oversize, but it's not an oversize that simply increases the dimension value.
It's for the reasons above.
It seems that the way to put stitches, the size of the back yoke, everything has a meaning.
Structure without stitches on the placket and collar.
However, the back yoke and shoulder line are stitched from the front.
This is also a necessary sewing specification that allows the designed outline to continue to appear with the help of stitching when worn for many years.
And this fabric, if you know AUBETT so far, you may have seen it, but it's called Heavy Broad.
It's super dense and super fine, and anyone who sees it, touches it, or wears it instantly feels that it's a strong, high-quality fabric.
Original fabric made by "Kaneta Textile".
Until now, we used Ultimate Pima Cotton as raw material, but from this season, we have changed the raw material to aim for more ideal.
Made from Indian extra long cotton.
And Kaneta-san is doing a splendid weaving and finishing.
There are no gaps at all, and the threads are tightly packed, super dense.
Yet, all parts are well-proportioned, there is no unevenness, and the beauty of the surface is amazing.
Well, it would be nice if there were comparison pictures. I didn't shoot that kind of thing.
Regular shirt fabrics don't look like this at all.
Also, even though it's super high density, it's not a stiff fabric.
It's dangerous to have freshly washed clothes that contain moisture.
It's supple and smooth when dry.
This fabric is a masterpiece.
And yet, the price of shirts has fallen more than ever. smile
By the chivalrous production of Mr. Sugihara and Mr. Kaneta.
I'm behind the times.
The color is only GRAY, which appeared for the first time this time.
All parts follow when you move your arm.
Rather than joining parts together, I just looked at the shape of the cloth and cut it three-dimensionally, and finally composed it into multiple pieces of fabric.
So the clothes all come together.
Gradually lower the
The armholes and sleeves are hidden inside the bodice.
When you lower your arms, the sleeves will come out from the inside of the bodice.
This is the "grown sleeve".
Not only the front, but also the back sleeves are turned inward.
And when worn, the drape for hiding the sleeves starts from the back yoke seam.
Mr. Sugihara's design matches the characteristics of Kaneta Orimono's fabrics.
Design and fabric properties are combined at the highest level.
2TUCK TAPERED PANTS
And first appearance.
pants of the same fabric.
When Kaneta's fabric comes to the lower body, it's already dangerous.
It feels great and feels super safe.
It's very comfortable in the hot season, and it's durable, so I think it will be used a lot.
Already, it looks like it feels good.
Made from high-quality raw materials, the fabric is ultra-dense, fine-textured, and durable. But it's the standard for shirt fabric, so it's incredibly comfortable in the summer.
In addition, with repeated washings, it changes more and more positively, and Mr. Ota of Kaneta Textile aims to create “fabric that lasts for 100 years”, so it is very durable.
Therefore, it is quite suitable for pants that are more stressful than tops.
If the same fabric is used for humans, pants will feel thinner than tops, so I think it's difficult to wear a shirt in the middle of summer, but when it comes to pants, it's not hard even in the middle of summer.
Regarding the "draping" that I mentioned earlier, Mr. Sugihara uses the original body of the lower body not only for the tops but also for the pants.
And even on T-shirts.
These pants also don't expose the body line of the lower body clearly, but they are designed to look very beautiful.
I think it's very rare in pants.
Even though it doesn't hit the lower body, it looks refreshing and beautiful.
Until now, I had never made pants with this fabric, but from the moment I went to the exhibition, I felt that everyone wanted to wear it.
That's why we only have AUBETT pants this season.
Everyone wear this.
That's how good it is.
SIDE VENTS S/S OVERSIZED SHIRTS
SIDE VENTS S/S OVERSIZED SHIRTS
There is also a shirt with short sleeves made from the same fabric.
As for long-sleeved shirts, I've been developing whitish shirts in the past season, and I thought I wouldn't wear pure white pants, so I only wore GRAY.
However, the white short-sleeved shirt was okay, so this is the only one with two colors.
The fabric is Kaneta's original fabric, just like the long-sleeve shirt and pants mentioned above.
As the name suggests, the characteristic side vents.
Rather than a slit, it is a vent specification with an elaborate design.
Kaneta's fabric is also used by Yamauchi and Araki Yuu, and the stitching really stands out.
And it makes the form of the molding shine even more.
It's a short-sleeved shirt, but I think it's pretty classy.
Well, it's still early in the season.
The back yoke is designed to be larger than the long sleeves.
And the sleeves are already hidden in the body from the hanging state.
The buttons on the shirt are all white pearl shells.
The best match with the natural shine of the fabric.
ZIP UP SHORT BLOUSON (WOMENS)
Kaneta's original fabric series.
I love this fabric so much that I still have it.
Next is WOMENS.
Short length cute zip blouson.
One size only.
Han people who read this blog.
Please recommend it to your wife or girlfriend.
Mr. Sugihara's "three-dimensional cutting", which I mentioned at the beginning, is based on traditional European women's clothing.
On the menswear side, I put in the essence of Han so that it doesn't go as far as women's.
However, it is women who can bring out the origin of the structure more strongly.
Shape of tucks and sleeves
Because it's Kaneta's fabric, it's possible to bring out the form clearly, but it also makes full use of various details.
Of course, it doesn't show your body line, but it's designed to make your body look sharp and beautiful.
COCOON SHIRT ONEPIECE (WOMENS)
A long dress with a cocoon silhouette.
While the short blouson mentioned earlier is 53.5cm in length, this one is 125cm in length (measured from the base of the collar).
Do you mean maxi length? It's quite long, but it can be worn by people between 150cm and 160cm.
It has a raglan fit on the shoulders, a bulging body, and a cocoon silhouette that tightens at the hem.
A common belt is attached from the bottom of the armhole.
The back is fully made of Kaneta's fabric without any stitching.
The front is fully open with button closure, so you can wear it like a shirt coat and tie the same fabric belt at the back, or you can wear it with all the buttons fastened.
Well, either way is fine.
The fabric has a sense of transparency, and because it's this gray, I think it's pretty cool to wear.
Please go to your wife or girlfriend.
COTTON × SUMMER WOOL PLAIN DOUBLE WEAVE
CUT AWAY FRONT JACKET
material _ WOOL 52%, COTTON 48% (flat double weave)
Next is this.
The biggest thing in AUBETT this season.
The fabric is, as stated, 52% wool and 48% cotton.
Even though it's called wool, it's not warm, but it's worsted.
The double weave of the plain weave structure.
As for the shape, it's a sharper image than the rusty red AUBETT JACKET that we sold in the past.
The shape of the hem that bounces outside the front is also quite sharp.
And this cutaway front jacket...
“Worsted river stitching”.
In other words, there is no interlining or lining.
And the fabric itself is super lightweight.
That is, that is,
It is a “river stitched jacket that can be worn even in summer”.
There are several types of double weave fabrics, but this is the "joint double" type.
In other words, there is a thread called a binding thread that connects two thin pieces of fabric.
As a result, due to the difference in shrinkage between wool and cotton, unevenness and shijiri like seersucker appear.
The lapel is the most complicated upper collar pinching type.
Recently, I've been seeing a lot of different brands, not just women's, but I think that "worsted river stitching" that can be worn until around summer is quite rare. hey.
It has good ventilation and is very good as a summer jacket.
Also, Mr. Sugihara said that with river stitching, the clothes are made up of only the outer material, sewing thread, and buttons, so the three-dimensional outline is reflected very well.
The coloring is DEEP NAVY, but it's a fairly dark navy, so I think it can be used in the same way as black.
Darts that fit in your body.
Compared to a regular jacket, the darts that are closer to the center greatly affect the outline of this jacket.
Even though it is away from the body, it sticks to the body.
It may be something you can only experience with this jacket.
The cuffs are genuine face.
The button is a water buffalo.
Well, the design of the draping and the quality of the fabric and sewing are overflowing.
When worn, it is best to fasten the top of the three buttons.
Then the hem of the front will bounce beautifully.
Of course, there is no lining because of the river sewing.
Not only is it very light to wear, but I think everyone will be impressed by the high level of this jacket.
TECHNORAMA SZ JERSEY
color _ FOREST NIGHT
Finally, a T-shirt.
Well, it's still early.
This one uses a hard-twisted yarn called Technorama developed by Hokudaisho Ono in Tokyo.
And the threading is also super special.
It's a T-shirt with a double-ply cotton sheeting structure, but the two-ply yarns are combined with opposite S-twisted and Z-twisted yarns.
By doing so, it is a T-shirt that supports each other, does not sag, does not stretch, is dry to the touch, and is very windy and cool to wear.
Well, this is still early, so it's good to have a quick look.
I would appreciate it if you could consider it again when the time comes.
Of course, this is also equipped with 3D cutting.
It's a great feeling of closeness to your body.
Also, regarding this, although it is in an unwashed state, it will shrink about 3 cm after washing.
Therefore, the length of the dress is designed with that in mind.
Please rest assured that it will be better if you wash it.
The above lineup is the collection line of AUBETT, which will start on the 18th (Sat).
I will introduce another one tomorrow.