The new season of AUBETT was announced yesterday.
As I mentioned earlier, AUBETT designer Sugihara-san will be in the store all day tomorrow, the 23rd (Sunday).
It's been about a year.
Mr. Sugihara will be at the store.
Normally, when a designer would be at a store like this, it would usually be on a Saturday, but this time, I thought it would be nice to have a Sunday as well, so I asked for a Sunday, so I decided to schedule a visit on a Sunday. It would be nice if someone could match.
As I have written about before on this blog, he is a designer with a solid career in making clothes. Mr. Sugihara.
Through the clothes Sugihara-san makes, I was able to learn a lot about how to make clothes, and the way I think about clothes has changed.
Mr. Sugihara said that he has been making clothes for years and years and that he has dedicated his life to it.
Clothes made by people like that who put their heart and soul into making them are of great quality.
Nowadays, there are a lot of people who are "designers in name only," and anyone can call themselves a "designer" and start making clothes as soon as they graduate from vocational school.
However, even with all the clothes that are flooding the world, there is always a "level" or "concentration" of the clothes.
And it shows in the clothes. absolutely.
What's more, when you actually spend time wearing the clothes themselves, not just when they're brand new, over a period of six months or a year, the difference in the quality of the clothes becomes wider and wider.
There aren't that many bright clothes that go beyond the new ones. both externally and internally.
At our store, we take this into consideration when choosing the clothes we handle, and the clothes that Mr. Sugihara makes are exactly Mr. Sugihara.
I can really feel the originality and personality that I've cultivated over time being reflected in the clothes, giving form to them.
That's the kind of clothes.
That's why, to welcome the new season, we're inviting Mr. Sugihara to stand in the shop for just one day, displaying clothes made by Mr. Sugihara.
I'm also planning to have the actual "patterns" that Mr. Sugihara used when making his clothes available in the store for people to see.
Because he is a designer who is best at ``3D cutting'' patterns. Very distinctive.
Mr. Sugihara designs all his own clothes using 3D cutting, including coats, shirts, pants, and cut-and-sew items.
It's not an external patterner's brand.
That's why my clothes smell so "Sugihara-san."
Today, I would like to introduce some of the items that will be released tomorrow.
YAK MELTON OVERCOAT
Made of 100% "yak wool", it has a double weave structure, meaning both the front and back sides are "front".
That is a coat made of super heavy melton fabric.
Great for cold weather.
Normally, due to the raw material price of the yak fiber, the amount of yak fiber can be reduced to make it lighter.
However, Mr. Sugihara ignored it.
This time, it's a super heavy yak that has been shaken off.
The 3D sizing was designed by Mr. Sugihara, and the density and amount of fabric used is quite high, but it's called "river sewing" and considering the amount, it's a lie.
It feels so airy to wear.
Even among world-famous brands, when using river stitching, the weight of melton fabric is 300g/m or 400g/m, but AUBETT's fabric is extremely heavy at 760g/m.
Normally, it would be finished with a light finish, but in order to maximize the effect of river sewing, I used heavy melton with that much weight.
This is the edge of the fabric being sewn.
River sewing is...
Fabrics called "double weave" are made by two pieces of fabric being woven at the same time in a loom, and threads passed through them so that they become one piece, making it double but one piece of fabric. I hope you think so.
Split the edges of the double-woven fabric by hand.
Then, make one piece of fabric into two pieces at the edges, fold the edges inward, and sew by hand.
That kind of sewing technique.
This time, the coat is made from a large amount of fluffy yak wool, so to match the volume, the edges of the fabric are folded back 1cm wide and sewn with river stitches.
Of course, the edges of the fabric are all hand-split and all the sewing is done by hand, so it takes a lot of time, but it has many great benefits for the wearer.
The biggest feature is that it is extremely lightweight compared to other sewing specifications.
Especially this time, "Heavy Yaku Melton".
With this quantity and this feeling of wearing, this combination is the only one.
Although this technique is sometimes seen in women's coats, it is often simply aimed at lightness.
However, Mr. Sugihara used river sewing to create a heavy melton coat that would be so heavy that it would be a pain to wear it if it were sewn using a regular sewing machine. I thought it would be possible and tried it.
Well, there are many reasons why clothes sewn with river stitching are lightweight, such as facing parts, reverse fabric parts, specifications to hide seams, and no need for lining, but for customers, this is the only reason why they are lightweight. Feel everything you can't feel.
Nowadays, it seems that there are no factories in Japan that can produce this kind of river sewing due to efficiency and technical issues, but there are only a few domestic river sewing factories in Japan.
It seems that the "sewing process" alone for this coat takes two and a half days for each coat.
The amount of time it takes to sew just one outfit is incredible.
I think Mr. Sugihara mentioned the factory in Nara Prefecture. I'm sure.
This coat is packed with many of Mr. Sugihara's techniques, including the river sewing.
It's an oversized design that takes advantage of draping, but it's available in three sizes: 3, 4, and 5.
Normally, for this type of size development, one of three patterns is used as the standard, called a master pattern.
Based on that, we perform dimensional adjustments (reducing or enlarging) called ``grading'' to create a size development.
However, this coat is unique to Sugihara.
"Not grading" size expansion.
The size you choose will depend on your physique.
Ultra design where all sizes are independent.
By combining this super heavy fabric and sewing specifications, the ``three-dimensional oversize'' that Mr. Sugihara has been pursuing for over 10 years since his days at Saint Laurent has been successfully realized.
Ever since I was working at Saint Laurent, I had spent over 10 years in the corner of my atelier, solving and creating, solving and creating, over and over again, perfecting this form.
This is the ideal figure that Mr. Sugihara aims for.
The shoulders are greatly dropped, but I make sure that no matter what body type wears it, the drape I designed will always be created.
That is "three-dimensional oversize."
The width of the body is also large, but the darts placed in the body and located far away from the body create a shape and create a wonderful "face" at the front.
This gives it a sense of large size, but it also gives it a "three-dimensional" feel.
It's also on the sleeves.
Mr. Sugihara always aims for the idea of ``growing sleeves.''
The human body has a torso, arms and legs, but these are not "parts". Isn't it one whole, seamless?
That's why I place great importance on the fact that the clothes these people wear are not just a collection of parts, but rather as a whole.
When you raise your arms, a drape forms on the side of the body, and when you lower your arms, a continuous drape appears on the sleeves and the body.
Clothes with arms that ``grow out'' from inside the body, connecting everything together.
This makes clothes look beautiful and stylish no matter what era you wear them, and they suit the wearer.
This is the most attractive feature of 3D cutting, but it is said that "river sewing" can achieve this in the softest and most natural way.
Fabrics, patterns and sewing.
This is a winter coat that matches these three things at an extremely high level.
Since it is a woolen yak, it has a lining on the inside of the sleeves to make it slippery.
This coat is designed to be worn with the sleeves rolled up, so the lining is long enough to not be visible when the sleeves are rolled up.
However, this is also hand sewn.
With this raw material, this weight, this specification, and this design, I don't think this price is bad.
You can really feel the potential of undyed yak fiber.
OVERSIZE H/N PULLOVER
material_CASHMERE 95%,POLYURETHANE 5%
This is the first "cashmere sweater" I tried as a brand.
This is also dangerous.
In the photo, it is a high-necked undyed color, but it is also available in black.
Also, the crew neck type is undyed and black.
Mr. Sugihara himself loves sweaters and has worn them for many years, but due to their characteristics, they tend to weaken, sag, or pill, and every time he removes them, the fabric becomes thinner. I felt sorry for losing weight.
And when it comes to making knitwear, cashmere is the way to go.
However, until now, cashmere that Mr. Sugihara was satisfied with ended up being astronomically expensive.
However, he had a very good encounter and was able to significantly reduce intermediate costs while maintaining the high quality of cashmere.
However, there are many high-quality cashmere knits in the world.
When Mr. Sugihara thought about the meaning of creating a new cashmere knit, he searched for something that could never exist anywhere else and that could be worn over and over again.
That is the knitted cashmere fabric this time.
Super tight cashmere knit.
First, three strands of 15-count singleton cashmere yarn, which is designed to be much thicker than usual, are twisted together and knitted to the limit of machine knitting.
However, if you do just that, it will end up being a "heavy cashmere sweater that you've seen before."
Therefore, we developed AUBETT's original "polyurethane thread only in the horizontal direction".
As a result, the machine was able to reduce the clogging limit by more than double.
Clogged eyes that exceed the limits of machines.
What's more, polyurethane has a tendency to deteriorate, but to prevent it from deteriorating, two polyurethane threads are inserted and placed in an ``invisible place'' that won't touch the skin from the front or back. .
The knitted fabric is knitted to the limits of the machine, and then packed with the power of rubber until it can no longer become clogged.
This is an excellent knitted fabric that solves the problem of knits that tend to come loose at the elbows or stretch when worn.
Also, one piece of cashmere weighs 1kg, but the polyurethane gives it firmness and makes it surprisingly light.
This one is pretty bad too.
And the shape is, after all, "3D cutting."
Due to the production process, knits are formed by the "eyes" of the knitted fabric, which results in a linear pattern, which usually limits the outline of the garment.
However, he took advantage of this and created an original shape.
I don't think you'll see this shape in a sweater.
Even when viewed from the side, you can already see the beautiful triangular shape of the arm.
Because it's made from raw materials, it naturally feels rough on the skin and is comfortable to wear, but I don't think there is anything that doesn't sag and is formed with this outline.
LATINE DENIM WIDE 7 POCKET PANTS
And this. AUBETT denim.
It's denim, but it's not Okayama.
Also, it's not indigo dyed.
At our store, we use ``Latine Denim'' woven by the very familiar ``Yamaei Keori'' in Aichi Prefecture.
Yamaei Keori is a weaving shop that specializes in woolen fabrics.
The tilt The authentics that I introduced the other day were all original fabrics from Sanei Keori.
Although it looks like denim, it is a fabric that does not fade, has a high fabric density, and was designed with the aim of creating denim that has the beauty of woolen fabric.
I think you can see the fineness of the fabric even in the photo. Latina organization.
Like selvedge denim, a fabric hem is included on the outseam side.
However, since it is made by the woolen company Yamaei Keori, it is not selvedge like regular denim.
There is something called "Mimi name" which is used at the edge of the fabric of a suit, and it is a fabric Mimi specification that uses dobby weaving technology.
Fabric is a flat, straight object.
In other words, the "fabric hem" is also straight.
At AUBETT, all clothes are 3D cut.
Jeans that are commonly available are also often quite flat.
In particular, if a straight line of fabric is used as is for the outside seam, there will be considerable restrictions on how the outline will appear.
One side will always be straight.
However, Mr. Sugihara's design has transformed it into something completely different.
A dart that goes into this inner thigh.
This is quite a key point.
The outside seam retains the traditional jeans detail of a straight line, but the darts on the inner thigh ``raise'' the shape and create a three-dimensional shape.
These pants have a very manly shape.
And the back yoke.
Here, too, the pattern is different from normal.
Although the shape fits the waist and buttocks, the side view is dramatically straight.
If you try it on as if you were wearing regular jeans, I think you'll be impressed by all sorts of things.
Also, there are pockets that utilize the back yoke and body switching.
This makes it a "7-pocket" specification.
A blanket created in collaboration with Yu Seto, a sculptor, and AUBETT.
Yu Seto drew a work with an eagle pattern and placed it on a blanket as a jacquard.
This piece is made into a blanket by Yarn-dyed in 8 colors using SUPER 140S raw materials, using the colors of Yu Seto's "realistic" eagle work that lives in a different place at the same time as us.
The intricate color contrast that depicts the work itself is made of eight colors of yarn-dyed wool jacquard.
The ground seems to be heavy inlay. 100% wool.
This is a blanket that has been repeatedly tightened to create a dense and heavy feel.
Up until now, the brand has only been selling clothes, but from now on, they will also be selling items like this.
Tomorrow, there won't be a huge amount or variety, but I think you'll see a lot more than what I introduced today.
Tomorrow, the 23rd (Sunday), I'll be waiting for you with Mr. Sugihara.