Today, I would like to introduce Araki Yuu.
Because this time is also good.
One jacket and two shirts.
Both shirts have the same shape, but the fabric is different.
The jacket is MOTORCYCLE JACKET again this time.
color _ MUDDY BROWN
At Araki Yuu, there are various types of jackets, including the 4B JERKIN JACKET, but recently I've been ordering all these.
I think I like this jacket too.
I tend to have them make this all the time. smile
Round front, square back and short length.
The sizing is also relatively large, but for those who like this feeling, I think it's a transcendent jacket. this.
The MOTORCYCLE JACKET made this time is an EXCLUSIVE specialty of our store.
The fabric is 100% cotton.
However, "dyeing" and "organization" are dangerous.
Dyeing is "mud dyeing".
In Japan, “mud dyeing” is done only on Amami Oshima.
It is also not the stage of the fabric, but the dyeing with "thread".
In other words, "yarn-dyed mud dyeing".
Well, mud dyeing on the fabric is also nice, but it looks different when the fabric is dyed at the thread stage.
The shade and depth of the fabric are exceptional.
And at first glance, you can't see the structure of this fabric at all.
This was made by Mr. Araki of Araki Yuu together with Mr. Weaver.
A "variable weave" that combines plain weave and satin weave (satin) in the image of three-dimensional stripes.
The yarn count is 40 count two-ply yarn for both warp and weft.
Sometimes the threads are dyed with mud, and the fabric structure is the fabric structure, so it has a very unique dry and solid feel.
But when I wear it, the inside gets wet.
This fabric structure has a unique touch of yarn-dyed mud dyeing.
This feeling can only be experienced with this.
that kind of fabric.
I think there are people who like this fabric alone.
Well, that's what I'm doing, so it's a pretty expensive fabric.
However, I think there is something that makes me feel crazy.
I really wanted the brand to make something with this fabric, so when I ordered it, I thought a lot about it.
I wanted Araki Yuu to make the most useful material, not only the fabric, but also the clothes themselves.
I knew that the price would be reasonable, so I wanted to create something that could easily overcome that.
After that, it became this within me.
There is no lining, and you will be wearing the fabric most directly, yet you can clearly see the outstanding quality of Araki Yuu's sewing.
A jacket with a style that will impress you at its level no matter where you look.
Sewing specifications that do not use overlocks for unreasonably fine stitching as if sewing a thin dress shirt.
Basically, it is a double stitch sewing, but the spacing between the two stitches is not constant, and the width changes depending on each part.
All the stitchwork is the same color, but I'm fascinated by the contrast of the sewing details.
That's why, along with 4B JERKIN JACKET and KNICKER BOCKERS, I think it's clothes that let you feel Araki Yuu's overwhelming level.
For the button, I asked for unpainted brass this time as well.
Except for the shirt, buttonholes are hand-sewn with silk thread, so this is also the specification.
At this stage, I think Araki Yuu is the only hand buttonhole at our shop.
Isabella, who is due to arrive soon, doesn't even have button holes in some of the fabrics. In a strange way.
This is the back.
As I mentioned earlier, the jacket does not have a lining, so I think you will be able to see to your heart's content how well the techniques used to process the inside of the jacket are.
Only the armhole is piping processed. I think you'll understand when you see it.
Behind the brass buttons are all leather power buttons.
Safe and reliable specifications that can be used without worry.
This is it.
Only two inner buttons are replaced with hand-shaped horn buttons instead of hand-shaped brass buttons.
I think that those who like the wildness of this shaped horn button will like it.
Processing of the back of the cuffs.
Frankly speaking, it's a masterpiece.
This is all done by Araki Yuu's Araki-san.
I don't know anyone else in Japan who makes clothes on their own at this level.
However, if it's a level of clothing that makes Shirot-san grow hair, I sew it myself. There is something like that. I just graduated from a vocational school. Like.
The important thing is that this level of Araki Yuu is made in a skilled sewing factory.
No, I sew myself from start to finish. That's what I mean.
The “design” that can be seen from the appearance of clothes does not change with the season.
However, the quality of the clothes is top notch.
Incredibly fine and hand-crafted.
And when you look at the finished product, you can instantly tell that the "time spent" in the production is completely different from the clothes that are distributed in the world today.
This is not something that I could easily imitate even if I tried to imitate it.
Because I don't think there are many things that can make you feel that way from clothes.
That's why Araki Yuu has a serial number on everything he completes.
Well, it's a piece of clothing that's made with a lot of care, so it's best for those who wear this MOTORCYCLE JACKET to just use it without thinking about it.
If you want to wash it, it's fine if you wash it honestly, and the most appropriate thing is to wear it when you want to wear it.
Then, when I realized it, I think that the mud-dyed fabric is going to be amazing.
Well, first of all, maybe three years later.
It's okay to have tremendous expectations for changes in appearance three years from now.
Araki Yuu is available in sizes 0, 1, and 2, but at our store, we only have sizes 1 and 2 for the MOTORCYCLE JACKET.
It's a relatively perfect fit, but it's a three-dimensional shape that blows your mind.
That's why I think a lot of people can wear size 1 for small people and size 2 for big people.
Araki Yuu has dealt with various types of MOTORCYCLE JACKET so far, but this is the first time for craft dyeing "mud dyeing".
The price is the price, but I think that those who have it in their hands will feel that it is much higher than that.
Hont, that's great. this jacket.
LONG PULLOVER SHIRT
LONG PULLOVER SHIRT
material_ LINEN 55%, HEMP 45%
And a shirt.
What a long-awaited new style. this shirt.
If you look at the name and the photo, you'll know it, but it's a new style with a long length pullover.
WHITE is 100% COTTON.
100 count two-ply yarn fabric.
At Araki Yuu, we always have plain white shirts.
However, recently it has not been available at our store.
However, this time there was this in the sample, and I thought that the balance was really good, so I asked them to make the sample exactly.
I didn't realize it at the time, but I thought it was different from the plain white shirts that we used to sell.
It had changed.
It was a fabric made with "Kaneta textile".
100 count two-ply yarn with a fabric density unique to Kaneta.
The "sound" you can definitely feel when you wear it.
And wet skin Atari.
The collar is a one-piece collar without a base collar.
A design that allows the collar to rise and return when the first button is opened.
There are no stitches at the tip of the collar.
Collar attachment is an advanced technique in which the edge of the fabric is cut and the body is sandwiched.
The back yoke, armholes, etc. are all cut on the front.
This reduces the overlap of the seam allowance and is a unique process of Araki Yuu to aim for flat seams.
The back yoke is a bias specification that uses fabric diagonally, and antique lace is placed at the joint.
The front has an asymmetrical pocket, and the opening of the pocket is hand-stitched with silk.
It's the same as the MOTORCYCLE JACKET I mentioned earlier, but Araki Yuu has hand knots where reinforcement is needed.
After all, the appearance is more beautiful than Kandome sewing machines, and that is very important.
If you don't care about it, you won't notice it, but it's very important when it comes to this level.
Well, that's why Araki Yuu's clothes are incredibly durable.
The hem is also trimmed.
Since it is a pullover shirt with a long length, the round hem is tight.
As is often the case with Araki Yuu's shirts, the hem is cut off as is, and the body is not folded in three.
I put a label on the hem and processed it.
It takes a lot of work to get the required length of the fabric, but it's perfect.
I think that this specification is the most beautiful processing of the hem even if it is cut off.
The texture of the fabric on the cover, cutting, and sewing are difficult, but I think that the way the threads blow out, the way the body falls, and many other aspects are very beautifully produced.
The cuffs and their opening are also different from regular shirts.
There are no stitches on the cuffs and no sword rags.
The left and right cuff openings intersect and disappear into one.
Depending on when you wear it, this area may come into direct contact with your skin, so Araki Yuu's shirt is always designed to be flat and not uneven.
It's a thoughtful design.
And the reinforcement of that part is also made of handmade silk.
This is a side photo.
Sleeves are attached after the sleeves.
Usually, the sleeves are sewn continuously from the side of the body, but anyway, it's elaborate.
Also, this LONG PULLOVER SHIRT has very rounded shoulders.
So the outline from the shoulder to the arm is much smoother than before.
I think you can see the flowing curve of the shoulders.
And this black.
This is a similar style shirt, but the fabric is linen and hemp.
The warp is linen and the weft is hemp.
The texture is plain weave.
I don't think you will feel a stimulating touch on your skin, which is rare for this kind of fabric.
There is a strong tension peculiar to hemp of the weft.
Also, the thread spouting out from the cuts here and there is thicker and more wild than the 100 pairs of cotton I mentioned earlier.
At first, it is black, but as you wash it, you can see the old mood that has passed since time passed.
Of course, washing is best.
It's been a while since I've dealt with shirts, mainly pants, jackets, and outerwear, mainly from Knickerbockers.
Also, this shirt isn't that big, so it's only available in sizes 1 and 2.
It's a great three-dimensional shape, but I wanted it to be as loose as possible, so I didn't order the smallest size, 0.
I'm 167cm tall, but still 1 feels good.
All of them are clothes with a complicated structure, but they are all white goods that Mr. Araki of Araki Yuu spent a lot of time making.
Check it out if you like it.