Araki Yuu is finally here.
For the time being, it will be a spring/summer collection, but this season we have only had scarves.
And finally appeared.
There is no problem if you have high expectations for Araki Yuu's clothes this time.
No matter how high the hurdles are prepared, they make clothes of a level that can easily overcome them.
Due to the nature of the brand, there aren't many new clothes, or rather, new clothes, but for that reason, we have them make not only according to the sample, but also with what we specify. everytime.
So, this time there was a super dangerous fabric made by Araki Yuu.
The moment I saw it, it grabbed my heart.
And since then, my instincts have been waiting for it from the very depths of my heart.
Ever since I saw the sample fabric, I have never forgotten about that fabric.
I see clothes from many brands, and I have seen collections many times, but this was an unforgettable experience.
So expect a lot.
This time, one type of jacket and two types of pants.
I would like to introduce three of them.
material _ COTTON 52%, LINEN 48%
A jacket called JERKIN JACKET exists as a symbolic position of the brand, but we also think of it as the “face” of our store.
Stand-type neck shape with double deep front alignment.
Well, you can also be single.
A single-layered jacket with no lining, with plenty of Araki Yuu's generous techniques.
It's based on an old motorcycle jacket, so it's short in length and has curves in many places.
The front hem is also gently rounded toward the center.
On the other hand, the back is a square type, not round, but a straight cut hem.
Also, the swing in front of the arm is quite strong.
It is curved forward.
And, as I said earlier, the collar is a stand shape.
Regarding this, it's okay if you can handle it without worrying about anything while standing up without folding it back.
It's not excessive, but it's a jacket with a little shape at the waist.
Using the change of the bodice, I put a little shape.
And the side pocket using the change is arranged.
The side pockets are also well made.
The pocket opening is lined with the same fabric as the outer material, making it sturdy.
The triangular stitch that runs down the pocket is the facing stitch.
And on both sides of the pocket opening, there are hand-stitched candome.
Araki Yuu also does machine sewing that takes advantage of the unique durability of the sewing machine, but there are also hand-stitched parts here and there.
If you only use a sewing machine, it may become too stiff or excessive, so in order to achieve the ideal appearance of Araki Yuu, "hand stitching" is added to make it finely finished. .
I think hand-stitching is necessary for places that need to be stitched with a sewing machine, places that greatly affect the comfort of the garment, and details that should be done more precisely than a sewing machine.
Also buttonholes for clothes other than shirts.
All hand sewn. with silk thread.
And this fabric.
This is amazing.
Because it's dangerous.
From the moment I saw this fabric until I wrote this blog, it stuck in my head.
Coloring fabric named.
As mentioned above, the blend ratio is 52% COTTON and 48% LINEN.
It is a material in which warp and weft threads are woven together.
Well, rather than the material, the structure of the super-complicated organization.
This is of course Araki Yuu's original.
It's not distributed anywhere else.
This time, this fabric was made by Araki Yuu himself.
It's the fabric that formed the "organization chart".
Due to the nature of the brand, Araki Yuu makes everything from start to finish by himself, rather than factory sewing.
Pattern, cutting, sewing, special (buttonholes, candome, button attaching), finishing
I was doing the flow.
But this time, even before that,
“Fabric design” was added.
An “organization chart” is a “design drawing” of fabric.
Recently, I've been going to weavers more often, so each time I'm asked to see various organization charts, but this is quite complicated.
Well, it's not as easy as just drawing a blueprint to create the fabric, but there are more difficult processes involved in creating the fabric.
However, I have never seen clothes that started from the organization chart of the fabric by myself recently.
Especially for Japanese brands.
Overseas, Isabella Stefanelli is making her own fabrics for spring and summer deliveries, but this is another area of yabayaba's masterpiece, so I put it aside.
I don't think there are any Japanese brands.
At our shop, Mr. Matsui of Nobuyuki Matsui once used a loom to weave fabric by himself, but he said he would never do it again.
That's how much fabric is the world of a transcendent professional craftsman.
When I go to a weaving shop, I can really feel it.
This is literally a world where only skilled craftsmen can be involved.
Well, this time Araki Yuu's fabric was not woven by Mr. Araki himself. .
That's why Araki Yuu's rich territory starts from the stage before the fabric is created. this.
The "depth" and "complexity" of this fabric are overwhelming quality.
As mentioned above, single specification.
One of Araki Yuu's unique features is the brass buttons that are carved by oneself.
Also, the inner button is carved out of water buffalo.
Excellent sewing technique on the inside.
Leather back button for button reinforcement.
Like Yamauchi, Araki Yuu's needlework and sewing level are outstanding.
back of the buttonhole.
It's also hand sewn.
It's very beautiful and sturdy.
Curved cuff opening.
Overall, the cut uses a lot of curves, and the sewing is of this level, so I think you can feel the old mood of clothes from the haute couture era about 120 years ago.
This MOTORCYCLE JACKET is exclusive to CASANOVA&CO.
material _ COTTON 52%, LINEN 48%
This pair of pants first appeared in the previous autumn/winter season, but at that time, we asked them to make a 100% wool plain weave with a fabric basis weight of over 500 and a full lining.
Then, it was so wonderful that I liked it too much, and I wore it so often that I couldn't get enough of it.
However, since a wool coat of 500 metres is at the level of a midwinter coat, I thought I could only wear it in winter.
That's why I thought that this was absolutely necessary outside of winter, and appeared again.
Also, in “GIOMETRIC GRAY” where Araki Yuu designed the organization chart.
This Knickerbockers also has a very complicated structure.
As you can see, the front is no tuck.
The top button is a rare three-hole brass button.
Slash pocket on the waist side.
As you can see from this photo, the fine pitch and high-level stitching quality.
The front opening is all brass.
The inside of the front placket and the inside of the waist belt are also at a wonderful level.
This buttonhole is also hand sewn.
The belt loops are made by neatly folding the fabric, ironing, plain stitching, and topstitching.
One of the features of Araki Yuu is not only the visible parts, but also the fact that we do not use overlocking as much as possible.
It takes quite some time, though.
However, the durability is completely different, and the appearance is also very beautiful.
And the hem which is also a big feature of this Knickerbockers.
Adjuster belt with 5 intucks, hem band, and original brass parts.
No matter how you look at it, it's very different from the normal hem finish.
However, this is also full of Araki Yuu's sewing techniques.
Each tuck is evenly folded inward.
Kobastitch of the belt of the hem to fasten it.
However, there are no visible stitches on the adjustable belt that continues from the hem belt.
This kind of stitch work completely changes the appearance of the clothes.
I think you have a very good eye for detail.
You can see that it takes a lot of time to sew this one.
Also switch to the hem back.
and box pleats.
This is the back.
Piping for switching is also fully equipped on the back.
Hand-stitched Kandome at the opening of the hem.
Not only the front but also the back is very complicated and has various sewing specifications.
A round pocket and two darts of different lengths.
The piping of the split stitching of the bodice is still alive.
Super smart trousers.
Originally, Knickerbockers seems to be a gentleman's clothing that was created for Dutch gentlemen to enjoy sports on their days off.
In Japan, the image of carpenter's pants is strong.
Well, I really liked the last one, so I'm definitely going to use this geometric fabric again this time. That's what I thought.
I said it before.
The price is around 90,000, so it's a high hurdle, but the pants are so well made that I wanted as many people as possible to get their hands on them.
So, 10 orders in all.
Well, I'm going to wear one, so I'm selling 9 of them.
Because this really moves me. For those who fit.
So, I was able to make my own part a little earlier before the delivery, so I wore it.
I was inspecting a single layer of cotton linen Knickerbockers that is different from autumn and winter.
Then it turned out to be too good. smile
I was on a business trip to Paris until the other day, but the only pants I took with me were these Knickerbockers and pajamas, so I wore them every day.
By the way, it doesn't matter, but the lineup includes COTTLE and Tukir for shirts, Yamauchi for T-shirts, sleeveless from OLDE HOMESTEADER, and PETROSOLAUM for shoes. smile
In all of them, the lower body was always Knickerbockers.
I have only washed it once so far.
Araki Yuu has already been washed at the atelier even when it is brand new, so there is no big change.
Brass is caught at the airport, isn't it?
The brass adjuster on the hem was repeatedly detected by the metal detector at the airport, and I was always suspicious of my feet when I came and went.
Only at that time, I thought I should have worn more normal pants.
Since it is composed of black and gray colored threads, it feels a little white from the beginning.
I've washed it, and I've already worn it a lot, so I wonder if the fabric has a bulge.
Since the original story is the original story, the length is short.
I don't know if you can tell, but I'm 167 cm tall and size 0 is about this.
I don't think it's suitable for those who like the fabric to pile up on the hem, but I think it's good for those who are okay with short lengths.
There is a volume in the wading, but it feels like it can be stored at once at the hem with 5 tucks and 1 box pleat.
I think you'll understand when you see it.
Seasonally, winter is cold.
Well, the price is the price, but I think that this time's Knickerbockers will also be transcendentally impressed.
Because it works so well.
Now it's sunny and I can do Araki Yuu's Knickerbockers style all year round.
By the way, this is also our shop exclusive.
CURVED CROPPED PANTS
color_FADE BLACK CORD STRIPE
This is the first deployment.
Three-dimensional curved pants.
Although it is cropped, it is not shorter than Knickerbockers.
The fabric is 100 cotton like sashiko.
Even if it is straight, the cutting is curved at the knee position.
Deep rise in L-shaped pocket shape.
The front has brass buttons as well, but because the rise is deeper, there is one more button than normal pants.
Comes with a brass cinch back and round pockets.
The design does not include a waistband, but it does have a unique facing on the inside like a waistband.
Knees that stand out three-dimensionally.
The front body is usually a single piece of fabric, but this one is made up of two pieces that are joined together at the center.
Distinctive cutting with sashiko-like striped threads biased at the knee position.
This allows the fabric to stretch more naturally at the knees, creating a more sensible structure.
The darts on the back and how to enter are also characteristic.
Due to time constraints, I wasn't able to take many pictures of these pants, but it would be nice if you could see the actual product.
Araki Yuu will be delivering clothes for the first time in this spring/summer collection, but it is not clear when the second time will be.
Was it a jacket and a shirt then?
It's one of the best brands in Japan for making clothes that our shop is proud of, so if you like it, please take a look.