Yesterday, I introduced Araki Yuu's 4B jerkin jacket, which was the last delivery of this season, and today I will introduce another one.
Is it a new style half court standing position today? A jacket and one-size-fits-all pajama pants.
material_WOOL 90%, POLYESTER 10%
lining material_COTTON 100%
sleeve lining material _CUPRO 100%
button _ BLACK BRASS
This autumn/winter season, the Knickerbockers and this jacket that I introduced before will be a new style of clothing for the brand.
As I wrote before, I'm not asking Araki Yuu to constantly create new collections, so I don't have a lot of new styles of clothes, but the NEW STYLE was at the level you'd expect. So I'm ordering and making it.
And so is this field jacket.
I think that anyone who sees the military essence will be able to guess instantly, so that's fine, but the construction is wonderful.
very well done
In terms of size balance when worn, the 4B jerkin jacket and motorcycle jacket feel like they fit the body, but this one feels a little looser than those two.
However, it's not oversized at all. Relatively. relatively.
Overall, it is a jacket that is quite uncle. In a good way.
The collar can be worn with either the first button open or fastened.
There are no presser stitches or edge stitches on the collar, so it looks soft and three-dimensional.
I think it's hard to convey the shape of the collar in the photo, but it has a very classic collar shape with a strong curve that I haven't seen much recently.
People who like this think that the points here alone are sufficiently high.
Structurally, it's a one-piece collar with no base collar or moon waist. Not.
You can't see it at all in the photo because the pattern of the fabric is strong, but there are many parallel stitches in the place where the part that supports the collar called the moon waist is placed.
This makes the back look perfect.
The back style looks like the collar is standing firmly, and the back of the neck is set at a high position, but the stitching at the waist disappears as it goes forward, and the neck is deep enough to prevent it from coming off too much. Therefore, when viewed from the front, it gives the impression of a soft neck that is not too hard.
Well, in short, if you think it's a pretty good neck, that's fine.
Since the motif is a motif, the front chest pocket can be equipped with two gussets.
I was also surprised by this pocket.
I didn't notice it at all during the sample stage, but it's well done.
Like the 4B jerkin jacket I introduced yesterday, the pockets are lined with the same cotton lining as the back of the body.
The edge of the flap of the pocket has a meaning of reinforcement, and the outer material is folded back in three.
The processing of the edge of the fabric is overlocked so finely that I have never seen it before.
It's so fine that you think it's a lock processing of a thin women's cut and sew.
This is an outerwear.
It's so fine that it can't be seen clearly with the naked eye, but I think it's probably an overlock.
Well, to be honest, I think it doesn't matter, but it doesn't really matter to me.
Of course, not only the flap, but also both ends of the pocket opening of the pocket body can be tapped.
No matter how many clothes I've seen, it's great to see details that I've never seen before, things that no one else can do, and to know that clothes can do this.
Anyway, when it comes to looking at clothes or getting a new one, I think it's more satisfying to have something that's well-made and of a class that no one else can follow.
Well, I don't want to tell you how cool the initial specs are, but because the designer takes care of the details, the clothes will physically last longer, and in the end, people will wear such clothes negatively. There is no discomfort that you are worried about, and you can take it in your hand without worrying about it.
This is the kind of clothes that we aim to achieve, think about, and spend a lot of time making.
The waist is not a pocket with a gusset, but a pocket with a large capacity that is curved like a large bead or a box pocket.
The sleeves have two black-painted buttons in machined brass and adjustable cuff straps.
But this strap isn't just another part of the strap attached together.
One of the two sleeves is extended as a strap at the cuff.
What's more, I forgot the specific name of this shape, but it's not a linear part, but a curved necktie-like pattern.
Araki Yuu's clothes have a lot of curves, but rather than clothes that are made up of only straight details, it's natural that things that are made with curves and roundness are more beautiful. is.
And do it symmetrically.
Of course, the hurdles in the production process will be very high.
Nowadays, most of the products are made straight by thinking about the amount of fabric to be used, but it looks very mechanical and has a strong sense of mass production. That kind of thing.
Of course, that kind of clothing is fine, but Araki Yuu lives in a different world.
The button on the back of the sleeve is a leather power button and the cupra 100 sleeve lining that I entrusted to you this time.
Lined with 100 cotton.
The length is like a half-coat that covers the buttocks with plenty of room, so it has a deep center hook vent.
Can be opened and closed with a black painted brass button.
I was also impressed by the cotton parts that fasten this button.
Well, no matter how hard I tried, I couldn't get it to fit in the picture, so it would be nice if you could see it in person, but this white cotton part is made up of four layers of fabric.
The reason for this is that it is attached to the waist, which moves a lot, but when you wear it with the buttons fastened, the buttons do not interfere with the front.
This is crazy.
How to attach the lining similar to 4B jerkin jacket.
There is a large inner pocket on the left and right that is sandwiched between the facings of the bodice. with leather power button.
All machined brass black buttons are attached.
And this fabric.
Araki Yuu's special fabric for this autumn/winter.
As mentioned above, the blend ratio is 90% wool and 10% polyester.
The fabric is tightly woven with thick threads, and the surface has a three-dimensional effect as if it were a scale.
At the time of the exhibition, I was completely overwhelmed by the expression of this fabric, as I was completely overwhelmed by it. .
Recently, there are many brands with high-quality fabrics, so we also need to have an understanding of that. Moreover, there were very few fabrics that I could not understand with a microscope, but this was...
I don't understand the texture.
I mean this in a good way.
The fabric is woven at a weaving shop in Bishu, and the weaving shop is very creative and has created many masterpiece fabrics with many designers. That's right.
As for the touch of the fabric, the threads are thick and bulge and have resilience, so they have a tight feel, but both the warp and the weft of wool have a spun yarn and a core of polyester, which are also used for sweaters.
In addition, undyed wool and black wool are woven together, and the thread is very, very special.
Polyester threads are smooth and shiny.
Wool is the black and white thread that looks fuzzy.
When you look at the mix ratio, why does this fabric contain polyester? I was wondering, but I understood well that this is necessary to bring out the depth and texture of this fabric.
Undyed, whitish-looking wool threads meander while being twisted.
It's fastened with polyester.
However, I have never seen such a weave structure before, so it is impossible to analyze it.
This time, there was one more thing I didn't know, and I was able to make a new discovery.
I've never seen such a creative fabric, and it's a fabric with a strong texture, so I think it would be difficult for other brands to make clothes.
Unless you are a brand that can build clothes with a finish that is as strong as the strength of this fabric, I think you will lose in total balance as clothes.
Great fabric. this.
It doesn't feel like a heavy outerwear for the middle of winter like the classic melton fabric, but I think it will be used enough in the coming winter. I think everyone can instantly understand that the fabric is clogged and quite durable.
And above all, it looks pretty nice and uncle, and it feels like an old town doctor would wear it on a holiday.
I would be happy if you could consider this as a jacket that will accompany you from this winter.
material_WOOL 90%, POLYESTER 10%
lining material_COTTON 100%
button _ BLACK BRASS
And here are the pijama pants made of the same fabric.
One-size-fits-all pants with a very characteristic large waist that can be worn tightly with a drawcord.
Cord for squeezing a large waist.
The tip is equipped with brass parts.
Cord with double linen herringbone fabric and edge stitching.
It's pretty strong, so if you squeeze it without thinking about it, it's okay.
Slash pocket on the side.
The back pocket is a style that assumes that the waist is tightened, so it is placed in a rather irregular position.
This is a setting that is just right next to you when you wear it.
A rare 3-hole black brass button is placed on the top of the waist, and it is a button fly with a 2-hole button.
This buttonhole is also a handhole.
The placket facing cloth placed on the back is white cotton.
This cotton is sewn on the inside of the outer fabric by a mere 1mm so that it is not visible when worn.
This is called "withholding the lining", but even the placket is done with great care.
If you look at the picture, you may be able to guess, but I have a fairly large hip and the widest among the brands.
Even though it has a super wide silhouette, it has plenty of volume.
It's quite impressive.
And, although these pants draw such a powerful outline, the inside is also full of extremely polite specifications.
Like the Knickerbockers that I introduced the other day, it has a lining that makes it difficult for the knees to come off and is extremely durable.
The sewing pitch on the back is also staggering.
This technique allows you to sew a thick outer material and a different lining material as if it were a thin dress shirt.
It is impossible to apply this level uniformly to all clothes in factory production.
What you can do because it is a brand called Araki Yuu.
Piping is also applied to the hem and sides of the back of the body.
The length of the lining hem is not sewn directly to the main body, but it is a "swinging" specification, but it is attached with a knitted thread loop to fix it as needed.
You've never seen wide pants like this before.
Araki Yuu's pants are consistent in the strength of the fabric and the way the hands are put into the details of the back.
In particular, pants are the most stressful type of clothing, so I think you can give me the lower body with peace of mind.
Even if it gets colder from now on, I think it has the power to compete with any outerwear, so if you like this kind of thing, please take a look.
Now that the Araki Yuu line-up for this autumn/winter season is complete, many items are sold out, but I think it's relatively substantial.
Experience the quality of this brand.