The new autumn/winter season has started for most of the brands we carry, but it's time to introduce Araki Yuu.
It's not all yet, but let me introduce trousers and scarves today.
The characters printed on the paper read “special”.
And the notation of 1/6 piece in the world.
In other words, it is exclusive to our shop CASANOVA&CO.
A total of 6 trousers produced.
What's more, it's a completely new style that has never existed in Araki Yuu.
Araki Yuu is a designer who does everything from creating samples to producing collections by himself, so there are almost no so-called “new models” that exist every season in other brands as a matter of course.
Well, I don't always look for "new and new models" at Araki Yuu like other collection brands do, but I'm looking for clothes with transcendental quality that come from the work of making clothes insanely. Why?
However, this trouser this time is a “new model”.
Furthermore, the construction is amazing.
A level that is impossible to make unless you put a lot of work into it and spend a lot of time.
This is not a level of clothing that everyone can do. Say it clearly.
That's why I decided to place an order at the moment because I wanted everyone to see Araki Yuu doing so well.
On top of that, as soon as I saw it, my eyes were glued to it, and when I touched it, it was difficult to take my fingertips off. .
I asked him to make it straight from my heart.
In fact, we ended up with 6 amazing trousers that don't even exist as samples and are just here and there in our shop.
Well, actually I'm wearing one, so I can only sell five.
I've been looking forward to it for more than half a year, so the time has finally come.
It is a trouser that does not pander to the trendy fashion of the world.
CUSTOMIZED KNICKER BOCKERS
face material _ WOOL 100%
lining material_COTTON 100%
In modern times, there is a pair of pants commonly called "Nikkapokka", which is a uniform for those who work in civil engineering.
The prototype of that.
A long time ago, I read a book that studied the historical changes in clothing, and the men's trousers are classified as a very classic style, "Old Breeches."
One of them has a long history: men's short trousers called "Knickerbockers".
Underneath a classic jacket with a tailored color, it is a trouser that represents one of the representative existences as a symbol of a gentleman's western style that is active and highly mobile.
That's why, although it's completely different from the current fashion trend, I've been thinking for years and years that I want to introduce this kind of style, and over time, I've been able to give shape to it with Araki Yuu.
This trouser has a mountain of distinctive details, one of which is this.
It is the specification of the hem.
Since these pants have the property of respecting tradition, the length is quite short, but various things are concentrated in the hem.
5 intacs on the front.
It's all beautifully arranged and processed evenly.
Belt at the hem to hold it down.
In addition, it is adjustable with brass parts unique to Araki Yuu and tabs of the same material.
All the original brass parts are also processed one by one.
Everything looks different.
Also, if I write too much, the sentences will be longer than ever, so I will omit it, but each part of this hem is stitched with the right person in the right place.
Where the stitches are exposed to hold the edge of the fabric firmly in place, and where the middle stitches are finished.
It is properly used.
I think you can understand this when you see the real thing.
This is the back side of the hem.
The back style clearly has more parts than normal pants.
And one box pleat is put in to create the movement performance and roundness peculiar to "Old Knickerbockers".
Nice around the waist.
The top button is a three-hole brass button.
The button fly part is two-hole brass.
All hand-shaped by Araki Yuu himself.
The astonishing buttonhole is still alive.
All "hand buttonholes" without using a hole sewing machine that opens the buttonhole in an instant.
It's very inefficient, but it makes a huge difference in durability.
Because the crocheting of the holes is not mechanical, the stitches are tightly packed and the fabric can be gripped firmly.
If you look at the back of the hall, you can see at a glance that it is sewn by hand.
In today's world where speed is required in production, I think it is one of the symbols of a brand that stubbornly continues to make clothes that are over 100 years old.
The belt loop is also Araki Yuu.
It does not use a belt loop sewing machine that sews belt loops quickly, nor does it use a special trumpet mold.
Carefully fold the fabric and hit the stitches one by one with lockstitching.
The upper part of the belt loop is also sewn back over and over again without using a Kandome sewing machine.
The lower part is poured into the waist belt.
The fact that you don't use this Kandome is also a big feature of Araki Yuu's clothes.
Kandome sewing machines are categorized as special sewing machines, and they are exclusively for that purpose.
In general, about 48 stitches are sewn on a kandome, so it is inevitable that there will be too strong stitches in that part, and it is true that the sewing machine is for rational mass production.
In that case, Araki Yuu inserts a hand-stitched kandomome that is small and inconspicuous but can be firmly reinforced.
It takes an overwhelming amount of time, but with that kind of approach, the clothes that Araki Yuu creates in the world will be completed.
No one can do that, and it's almost impossible in Japan.
But keep doing it.
This is Araki Yuu's clothes, and that's why we feel so much love for Araki Yuu's clothes and would like to introduce them to everyone.
This is the back.
This trouser is fully lined.
Well, it's a dangerous level full lining specification.
All linings are 100% cotton, the quality normally used in shirts.
The concept of this trouser is that it is fully lined because it is important that it can be used as heavily as possible in the autumn and winter scenes.
Well, my ankles are cold because the length is short.
The merbert treatment is neat, and the lining is laid out with plenty of room so that it doesn't stretch as you move.
All serial numbers of clothes made by Araki Yuu as a brand, including samples, are also listed.
This is what I'm wearing. 2577.
The lining also has 5 tucks on the hem. Surprise.
The outer material is quite durable, but it is fully lined to further enhance it.
I will pass this trouser on to my grandchildren. seriously. That much toughness.
Well, since it's fully lined, it won't sag no matter how much you wear it, and the knees won't fall out, so I think it's a great benefit for autumn and winter scenes.
However, I wore it today, and I was working outside, and it doesn't get too hot even when I'm wearing it.
That's because the front is wool and the back is cotton, so it breathes.
But I'm sure it will keep you warm in winter.
Well, except ankles.
The construction of this trouser is also a shocking structure, but another thing I absolutely needed was this fabric.
100% wool. And plain weave.
I tell people who come to the store on a regular basis that I really like plain weave wool.
Because there are so many good things.
But this is on another level.
Metsuke 500 over.
If you look at this number and be surprised, I think you know a lot about clothes, but there is a standard called "metsuke" as an index for fabrics.
Roughly speaking, it is a number that expresses the weight of how many grams per meter.
The higher this number = weight, the more suitable the fabric is for the fall and winter seasons.
The smaller the number, the thinner the dough. In other words, it will be suitable for spring and summer.
In general, I wonder if the basis weight of the material throughout the year was around 240 or 250? I forgot.
I think there were about 300 fabrics suitable for the autumn/winter season.
Court is said to be over 450.
On top of that, this fabric is 500.
yes. I'm wearing my coat.
It means that the time has come to wear a coat.
Let only 5 people in the world experience it.
"A coat to wear."
Well, joking aside,
This fabric is not simply thick.
I don't know how to use thread.
Luckily, I was able to touch the fabric at the exhibition, so I really like the fabric of the weaver.
That's a lot of wool usage.
That's why it's over 500.
A large amount of wool is twisted quite strongly.
And it has this unique look.
It is "twisted heather".
Two yarns of different shades are twisted together to form a two-ply yarn.
The two-ply yarn already has a distinctive color with good contrast.
Align the twisted heather two-ply yarn.
・Twisted heather strong twist two-ply yarn
・Ultra high density
This fabric is produced.
The depth of the fabric unique to this weaver and the use of threads that dullly reflect natural light.
But it looks like it's starting to wither.
Paired with Araki Yuu's old style trousers, I think it turned out pretty good.
I'm wearing a size 0.
As expected, it was still hot, so I didn't wear anything messy, but I think that my body will gradually get used to it from here, and the expectations are very high.
I think that it has hidden latent potential because it is constructed to this level with such fabric usage.
It's close to the real thing, so the length is much higher than the ankle, but I think it's good for those who appreciate this kind of old mood.
petit rhombus scarf
color_BROWN HOUNDTOOTH CHECK
A silk scarf that was released for the first time in the spring/summer season.
In the past, it was made of thin silk for spring and summer, but this time the size is slightly larger, and the texture feels like silk flannel.
It's a scarf with different shapes on the left and right.
Antique lace is placed.
This scarf is made up of two pieces of fabric with different sizes and shapes.
Antique lace on the joint.
Such a thing.
Is the fabric silk spun?
It has an excellent touch against the skin with little fuzz.
At first, you may not think it is Silk 100, but I think you will gradually see its potential.
Well, from the moment I put it on for the first time, I don't think my skin will feel bad, so that's the proof of this material.
The color tone is also classical, and it's a super item that puts you in that mood just by wearing it.
Well, in the spring and summer, I had an image of it as a substitute for a towel, but this is good as it warms my throat and prevents colds.
So, as a result, you can bring it to a gentlemanly look.
It's more than just clothes, but it's sewn carefully and the edges are pretty well done, so I think you can fully feel the quality of what the brand makes.
Araki Yuu's scarf.
And as I announced a little the other day, tomorrow, October 2nd and 3rd, an event called BPM83 will be held in Ushimado, Setouchi City.
CASANOVA&CO is open as usual, but Ohno will be there for 2 days, so please go there.
The location is also good, and I think you can spend a very comfortable time in autumn.
On Saturdays and Sundays, it might be best to go to Ushimado and then CASANOVA&CO.