Today is Araki Yuu.
It's going to be hot from now on, but I'm wearing long sleeves. smile
I probably can't wear it unless it's under the air conditioner in midsummer. this is.
But if you like it, I think you will like it, so please judge it as "clothes". rather than seasonal.
Two types of shirts made of the same brown linen, with different appearances.
Raw Cut Pointed Collar Narrow Shirt
Shirt in brown twill linen.
It's not the last few seasons that the unique look of linen fibers has been so abundant from the beginning.
This shirt model is the brand's narrowest fitting shirt.
There is waist shape of just shoulder.
However, the roundness of the human upper body gives it a three-dimensional feel, so it's no surprise that it feels cramped.
I think that even people who normally wear loose-fitting clothing will be able to wear it without any discomfort.
And the shape and fabric are the same, but the eye-catching feature of this shirt is the “overwhelming cut” design.
This is the “raw cut”.
Araki Yuu's specifications of "cut off" and "uncut" are very meaningful.
Nowadays, even a moderate designer can make it look their own way, but it's very dangerous for clothes, and I don't think anyone can do it.
Unless it's properly lined, it's just a ragged piece of clothing.
That's why I don't treat this type of uncut stuff that often.
And there's a huge benefit to Araki Yuu's doing this cut-and-dry thing.
That is "stitched seam allowance".
Normally, if you sew the parts together at the same time as processing the edges of the fabric, the seam allowance will become thicker.
Therefore, as one of the sewing techniques, there is a method of cutting invisible parts where many fabrics overlap and become too thick or rough.
Of course, Araki Yuu also does that properly, but not only that, but it also changes how the “outline” looks when you wear it.
Especially the fabric this time is twill linen.
It is completely different from the fine count cotton plain weave of normal shirts.
By "shifting the seam allowance", the shoulder area where the "body", "back yoke", and "sleeves" overlap is also flat.
Well, it doesn't look flat at all because the thick linen thread is blowing out.
Almost everywhere you can see this "raw cut" stitching.
All the specifications are the same except for the "top edge of the base collar" where the upper collar is "pinched", the "front alignment of the body", and the "gusset on the side of the hem".
Cufflinks, sword rags.
Bodice side and hem.
Quite tight round hem.
Antique lace as usual on the back yoke.
And this is the back.
Contrary to the front, the back side is a specification that does not have any breaks.
I wonder if it's finer than the grain of the fabric.
Well, the fineness of the hand movement is dangerous. I put a lot of effort into making it. I don't want to say that, but because it's like this, I don't feel uncomfortable when I actually wear it. Araki Yuu shirt.
After all, the world's first spec match is overflowing with clothes, but that's not the case.
The stitching on the back that touches the skin is super smooth.
It's not a particularly loose size, and the surface that touches the skin is inevitably large, so "comfortable to wear" is an absolute requirement.
On the other hand, there is no bulge due to excessive seam allowance on the front side, so the outline of the clothes can be seen clearly.
Well, the threads are gushing out so much that I don't really pay attention to them.
All this behind.
This is also the back.
It's under the armpit.
It's hard to tell from the photo, but the sleeves are "tube-attached".
Normally, shirts are sewn together from the sides of the body to the inside of the sleeves and are often formed at the same time, but this is constructed separately.
This will allow your arm to move smoothly.
As I said earlier, it's a relatively tight-fitting shirt, and some people think it's tight, but thanks to the specifications of the sleeves, I don't have to worry about it being stretched out in a negative direction.
I like this style of shirt, so when I first started selling Araki Yuu, I had the same model of striped shirt, and I still wear it often.
So, I'm also wearing this brown linen one in the same shape.
I think I washed it about 15 times.
The stiffness of the linen when it was new was removed by repeated washing, and it became bulging.
The rest is thread.
Threads are gushing out like overflowing.
If you look at the picture, I think you can understand that the fabric seems to be soft.
It's called twill, but it has a strong drape that makes it look like it's trying to fall under linen, but it also has conflicting elements like gauze that floats softly and softly.
Also, new ones are a little hard and the color is quite dark brown.
Even so, since the fabric is dyed, the linen feels strongly against the skin, but it disappears overwhelmingly as you wear it.
You can literally see that the fibers "curl".
A feeling of wearing is completely different from a new article.
The more you wear it and wash it, the more gentle it becomes.
He/she accomplishes evolution of the best part of appearance and comfort.
The dough has obviously swelled.
Everything else is a little whiter.
That should be it.
If you're sharp, you can feel it, but I think the spouting threads look whitish.
In other words, it is in the same state as denim.
Denim fabric has synthetic indigo molecules that are large, and the molecules do not enter the center of the thread, resulting in a "white center" = "white center". is exposed, and a phenomenon called "discoloration" occurs.
The fabric this time is different from denim in the process of dyeing (denim is rope dyed in advance), and it is "dye dyed (post-dyed)" linen that is dyed at the stage of the fabric. The fabric is made with the aim of changing naturally with wear and washing without dyeing through the center.
That's why we use twill weave because it needs to be a little thicker, and by using it repeatedly, not only does the color change, but the corners of the fibers are smoothed out, giving rise to the bulge of linen. I'm aiming for
The one in front is the new one, and the one in the back is mine.
The new one is very flat and dark brown, but you can see that the color tone and swelling are completely different.
New on the left.
The one on the right is mine.
The texture of the fabric has also become richer, making it very easy to wear.
It's not so much a shirt, but it's clothes with the spirit of "grow yourself".
No Collar Utility Shirt
And here with the same fabric.
Collarless utility type shirt.
This is no break.
After all, taste is important when it comes to the appearance of clothes.
This may be good for those who are not good at cut-off.
Asymmetric chest pocket.
In contrast to the previous shirt, this is the widest type among Araki Yuu.
It doesn't feel loose, though.
The length is longer than before, so I guess you could call it a box silhouette.
The roundness of the hem is also looser than before.
And characteristic blouson type cufflinks.
It's rare for shirts.
The brand also makes shirt jackets by combining this style of shirt with fabric that gives it a little more weight.
Compared to the shirt I mentioned earlier, this is the type where the edges of the fabric are neatly processed on the front and back.
For that reason, the seam allowance feels a little stiff, but I don't think it bothers me at all because this Utility Shirt is the type of Araki Yuu that has a lot of room in the horizontal direction.
Please be assured that the specifications have been changed to suit the prototype.
Also equipped with gussets on the side of the hem.
There is a chest pocket with different uses on the left and right.
In terms of the original story, there is a mountain-shaped pocket for frequently putting things in and out, and a pocket with a flap to prevent things from falling out.
Both pockets have hand-sewn reinforcements at the openings of the pockets that are subject to stress.
The round flap is well made and well made.
It has a slightly military scent, but the color gives it a slightly gentlemanly look.
In the summer, the sleeves are rolled up indoors, and in autumn, it's like a shirt outerwear.
Of course there is no lining.
This is also brown linen, so I think it will change positively by continuing to use it in the same way.
If you like it, please take a look.