It's early, but it seems like a new season is starting little by little.
COMOLI has already started at our shop, but Araki Yuu is the next as early as possible.
Seasons are almost irrelevant when it comes to this kind of clothing genre, but even so, the materials and specifications used are suitable for that genre.
There are two types of coats this time.
The 2021SS season Araki Yuu coats in our store are only those two types.
atelier coat with half lining
material _ linen 100% (mud dye)
It's a coat called Atelier Court.
It's not oversized like the original stand collar pattern, but it's a coat with a slightly longer body width and longer length.
The material used is 100% linen. The brand has been doing "mud dyeing" for a long time, especially in the spring and summer seasons, but the more times you dye it, the darker the color and the more expensive it gets.
So, this fabric this time is the darkest mud dyed so far.
In the first place, mud dyeing is really done with mud, but it is dyed in the rice fields in a region that is deep in the mountains and rich in nature.
Of course, you can't put a large-scale machine in such a place, so it's done by hand.
100% linen threads are bundled little by little and dyed.
And the color that has been completed over time is still exceptional.
Due to the light from the microscope, it looks quite light, but since it is a hand-dyed linen thread, the thread itself feels thicker.
With ordinary dyeing, the overall dyeing is neat, but the slightly random appearance is unique to natural products.
Weaving is done with a dobby loom that can create unevenness in the fabric.
The combination of the slight unevenness of the mud dyeing and the dobby gives it a very tasteful and deep expression.
And brass is added there.
Already, you can see that the dimension is different just by this.
Araki Yuu takes the time to rust the brass one by one.
First of all, it's already special from the way the button is shaped.
From there, I'm going to do another shot.
The buttonholes are also hand sewn (with silk thread).
The side pockets at the waist position are large, and the pocket openings are slightly S-shaped.
Both ends of the pocket opening are also hand-stitched (with silk thread).
But that's not all, the pocket's thoughtful specifications.
Mud-dyed fabric on the back of the pocket and white cotton are arranged on the back.
However, from the front, the stitching for switching is not exposed at all, and only the shape of the large pocket is pushed forward.
On top of that, the facing cloth is properly attached so that it cannot be seen from the front (slipped to the back by a few millimeters).
Originally, the basics of clothes are now more and more simplified and produced.
The place where you can see the posture of Araki Yuu who makes clothes properly.
At first glance from the surface, it looks like it doesn't make you feel that way.
Since it's the spring/summer season, it's unlined. Because the back of the body is also super excellent.
The buttonholes where you can see the hand-stitching and the Nankin-tamabuchi.
I have already explained a little bit about Nanjing Beading, but now it is a mechanized beading process, but this specification is obsolete because it cannot be mechanized.
The point is the edges of the fabric that are inwardly folded into triangles at both ends of both welt pockets.
Because it is a brand that continues to do this kind of thing, it is the reason why you can entrust your mind to clothes.
Complex specifications behind the invisible.
Multiple thread loops to fasten the waved (unstitched) lining and reinforced parts at the pocket opening.
After all, this is what it is.
Hook vent (I didn't take a picture) and a corner frame.
Dark brown herringbone cupra on the sleeve lining.
After the clothes are completed, it is common to press them with an iron to make them look crisp, but Araki Yuu says the opposite.
After making it properly and carefully, I wash the clothes myself.
By doing so, we succeeded in raising the expression of the material.
Well, it's clear that if you keep wearing it, you'll make even more progress, so please enjoy the future.
soutien collar half coat
button _ black brass
It is a half-length coat with a stainless collar.
Araki Yuu's most stripped-down looking coat, but it's amazing.
Of course, the size of the collar, the height of the neck, the measurements, the length, and the width of the body are well-balanced. The outline of the collar, which rises toward the neck, is the best.
Well, I don't have a picture of me wearing it.
The fabric is a dense cotton grosgrain.
At Araki Yuu, the texture of the fabric feels a little technical, which is rare.
Also, since it is grosgrain, it has ridges similar to picket.
However, it's harder, firmer, and more "dense" than picket.
Coloring is black.
Even though it's black, it's completely black, but due to the nature of the grosgrain fabric, it looks strangely whitish.
It can also be seen in tech fabrics, and I think some people can imagine a change that is close to the decadence of fabrics in the future.
Well, in short, think of it as a two-sided fabric.
It's made of 100% cotton and is made of natural fibers like the coat I mentioned earlier, but the threads are much thinner, and I think you can see that it's very "dense".
It's the same magnification as the mud-dyed coat just now.
It's a natural fiber with high density and little fuzz, so it's the reason why it's finished with such a look.
Since Mr. Araki hand-washed it after completion, there are wrinkles peculiar to washing. It's the same for Araki Yuu, but it's hand wash OK, so you can wear it roughly and wash it.
The buttonholes are also hand sewn.
From the table, I don't feel the slightest bit of dust.
The buttons are black painted brass.
As I wrote earlier, this coat is handled like a shirt, and I think it will shine even after repeated washings.
In anticipation of such a situation, I request the production of black buttons that gradually peel off the black coating.
So I think it will be completely different depending on the owner.
When you wear it, it feels like a thick cotton coat.
Just as it is.
If you mainly travel by car, this fabric density is suitable for winter.
Only if I wore a sweater inside.
For the time being, it is the back of the cotton.
There are also pockets on the inside, so you might be able to go out quite empty-handed.
There is no zigzag stitching on the back of the collar, but the grosgrain fabric still works well and the collar is solid and three-dimensional.
Then there's the sewing technique.
When you look at the clothes of Araki Yuu and Yamauchi, each of them has a different way of thinking, but you can touch the depth of the super-technical job called sewing.
It will be perfect clothes to keep wearing.
This season, start with the coat.
Take a look.