Today, I am writing this blog for the first time in a while.
Lately, I've been doing a lot of things because I've had a lot going on.
So, thanks to you, there are a lot of things I haven't been able to introduce at all.
Today, I'd like to introduce Araki Yuu, but the store also has a variety of products including Isabella Stafanelli, Yamauchi, MOTHER HAND artisan, calmlence, and GERNOT LINDNER.
It's already a bountiful harvest.
Also, oh yeah.
From the other day, a new collection has started all over the country, IRENISA.
At our store, we don't have it yet.
The plan is to start sales on February 17th and 18th with the two designers in the store.
IRENISA will be in February, and Sugihara-san from nonnotte will be coming at the beginning of March, following on from December.
Also, we have some brands that we carry starting this season, so if you're looking forward to those things, please look forward to them.
Today is Araki Yuu.
Lately, I haven't been able to introduce much about it even when it's in stores, and the other day I introduced an Arashan cashmere scarf and brass ring set for the first time in a while, but today I'd like to talk about clothes.
This jacket is also a symbol of the brand.
Araki Yuu
4B jerkin jacket
face material _ WOOL 50%, SILK 49%, POLYESTER 1%
lining material _ COTTON 100%
sleeve lining material_CUPRO 100%
button_BRASS
color _ DARK KHAKI
size_0,1,2
※sold out
this.
A jacket with four machined brass buttons on the front.
Actually, size 1 of this jacket was delivered to me a while ago, but since I had ordered the full size, I wanted to introduce it to you once I had everything.
I personally have a jerkin jacket that I've been wearing for years, but I haven't been carrying the 4B jerkin jacket for the past two years.
However, I thought it was time to do it again, and Araki Yuu was making some amazing fabrics.
When I saw it, I thought that a jerkin jacket would be perfect for this fabric, so this is the first time I've seen this jacket in a while.
This time, the specifications of the clothes made by Araki Yuu are amazing, but the fabrics are also amazing.
this.
The dark-toned fabric has thin red and blue stripes, giving off a transcendent mood you've never seen before.
As mentioned above, the fabric blend is 50% wool, 49% silk, and 1% polyester.
This "1% polyester" is the thread that makes up the red and blue stripes.
However, this is where the greatness of this fabric begins.
An original fabric whose structure was designed by Araki Yuu himself.
The warp yarns are dark brown or very dark khaki-like wool.
Black silk with nep in the weft that connects to the depth of the fabric. This silk feels slippery to the touch.
If you look closely at the photo of the fabric, you will see that it is a mixture of herringbone (twill weave) and plain weave, with faint red and blue stripes peeking out.
It's a fabric that is a mixture of twill and plain weave, but it's not just a combination of different weave types.
If you look at this photo, you might be able to understand something.
Not only the structure, but also the number of threads used is different between the parts where double threads are used (two threads) and the threads where double threads are aligned (four threads).
The center of the photo is "plain weave".
The one between the plain weave is "herringbone" (twill weave).
The twill herringbone section is made of wool and silk, each of which is a "double thread".
If you look at the plain weave area, do you notice that the threads intersect more than the herringbone area? ?
That part is the ``souito-biki alignment'' where the fuito (two threads) and the fuito (two threads) are lined up in parallel.
In addition, the red and blue stripes are each made of a single thread, but because they are arranged as thin threads against the double-thread wool of the khaki, they are buried in the wool and silk threads, making them slightly thinner. It's designed to only show its face.
Not only is the texture of the fabric switched between plain weave and twill weave, but there are also different combinations of threads made of materials with different expressions, and changes in the way the threads are used.
By combining these multifaceted elements, we create fabrics that are extremely complex and have a transcendental mood.
This fabric is made by Araki Yuu, who started ``development of fabric structure'' several years ago in order to further improve the level of clothing, but among them, I found that it has a multi-layered depth that I have never seen before. I was very impressed with the fabric, so today I'm introducing the 4B jerkin jacket, but in addition to this, I'm currently in the process of having my uniform "knicker bockers" made.
In other words, there are some people who have the potential to achieve this unique, transcendental mood setup.
Well, even a single item is enough.
Honestly, we live in a world where there are so many similar fabrics out there, flimsy, cheap, and boring, but in such a world, it's amazing how a clothing brand can design their own fabrics to this level. That's incredible.
I think everyone can feel the awesomeness of this fabric.
You can do this. The fabric looks so intricate that it's unbelievable.
Well, what's amazing about Araki Yuu is that not only that, but she also sews and makes all of the clothes she sells herself.
It's already crazy. This brand is.
The 4B jerkin jacket has been introduced on this blog before, but I would like to introduce a little more about the specifications of the garment.
As you can see, it's an old style jacket.
The shape of the jacket really gives off an old mood.
This jacket has a stand-up collar, box pockets on the chest, patch pockets on the waist, and a cut-away front style with the hem of the body gently escaping outwards, and the buttons that Araki Yuu made by carving brass herself stand out.
this.
Chest box pocket.
Pockets with this structure are no longer used on casual jackets.
It's a specification that requires a lot of work.
The edge of the pocket opening of the box pocket.
Do you understand? ?
The pocket opening is hand-sewn with silk thread to increase the strength of the pocket opening.
It is not a Kandome sewing machine.
Patch pockets at waist.
Even though it is a patch pocket and an external pocket, there is a cotton lining fabric on the back of the pocket, and the shape of the pocket itself is not just square.
And this is also a photo of the edge of the pocket opening.
Just like the chest box pocket mentioned earlier, there is a hand-stitched kandome made with silk thread.
Compared to the chest pocket, I think this one is used more often, so it's more durable and can be used to hold hands.
The hem of the front body is designed to flare out slightly.
It's hard to tell because there's no photo of me wearing it.
Brand-specific buttons made of hand-shaped brass.
Araki Yuu's clothes have a very heavy mood, so the best balance is that the buttons also have weight.
If they were regular buttons, Araki Yuu's clothes would have too much power and the buttons wouldn't harmonize.
There is also one brass button on the sleeve opening.
Plus buttonholes.
For the brand, all buttonholes on clothes other than shirts are made by hand at Araki Yuu.
We have been doing this since the beginning of the brand.
Normally, the holes are made with a buttonhole sewing machine, but at Araki Yuu, they are always made by hand.
This is because buttonhole sewing machines can cause slight wobble, and it takes time to make one buttonhole, but I personally feel that Araki Yuu's buttonholes are extremely durable. .
Also, when using a buttonhole sewing machine, the shape can end up being mechanical, but in the case of Araki Yuu's buttonholes, I think the hole itself fits perfectly into the clothes.
This is one element that tells the story of the brand's clothing making.
Behind the brass button is a leather power button.
Araki Yuu's clothes are all hand-washed in the atelier, so you can see the leather on the inside as well.
However, despite being washed with products, the seams that make up the clothes have not collapsed at all.
The switching part of the fabric is "standing".
Clothes that are simply sewn together with an emphasis on speed always tend to rip at the seams when washed, but this is not the case with Araki Yuu.
look.
On the back of the front edge, the facing part and the sewn switching line on the back of the collar.
The lines are so beautiful that you can't believe it has been washed.
It's beautiful, isn't it?
This is clearly proof that the stitching was done carefully and over time.
However, if you do just that, the clothes will be too hard, so wash them and break them down.
The level of clothing making is so high that I can't hide the quality of the craftsmanship at all.
That is one of the charms of Araki Yuu's clothes.
Well, no matter how you look at it, it's at an extremely high level.
Araki Yuu's clothes are sometimes said to have an atmosphere, but they don't have that atmosphere.
The product of careful, time-consuming, and serious clothing making.
And the back.
There are two pockets on the front with both beaded edges.
The lining of the body is cotton.
The sleeve lining is cupro.
You can specify the lining for the sleeves by conveying your image, but at our store we always leave it up to Araki Yuu.
When you look at the specifications on the back, you can see even more of Araki Yuu's skill in making clothes.
All Araki Yuu clothes, including samples, are marked with a serial number indicating the number of clothes made by Araki Yuu.
Well, you can see that, but what I want you to see is that.
"Double bead pocket".
I don't know of any other brand that makes these pockets other than Araki Yuu.
Officially, it is called "Nankin Tamabuchi".
There are many different types of pockets, but the one that is gradually disappearing due to the hassle involved is the "beam pocket".
It is the "double bead pocket" that exists above and below the pocket opening.
However, it is now said that there are even "sewing machines" for making the bead edges, as it takes a lot of time to make the pocket openings.
I feel that among these beaded pockets, there are two types that do not have edges.
"Nanjing jade edge" and "massage ball".
These two.
Araki Yuu is equipped with Nanjing Yuen.
By the way, "massage balls" refer to balls with very narrow edges.
At our store, Isabella's clothes sometimes look like this.
Both "Nanking jade" and "massage" are clothing techniques that have disappeared in modern times.
Check out the pocket edge of Araki Yuu's jerkin jacket.
I think the edges are "triangular".
This is done by carefully folding the edges of the pocket opening fabric inward.
What's more, when you look at the pocket, you can see not only the lining fabric, but also the outer facing part of the triangle.
The Nanjing jade border straddles the boundaries of the fabric.
I don't think anyone is doing this in the ready-to-wear world right now.
In fact, I can't do it anymore. lol
However, Araki Yuu's pockets with this Nanjing bead design are relatively recent.
In the past, Araki Yuu's clothes have the usual double-edged edges.
This is a tailor's technique, but Araki Yuu has been working on further acquiring the technique in his spare time between producing branded clothes.
That's why the specifications of clothes are being refined year by year.
Because the brand insists on making all its clothes by itself, it is physically difficult to make a large number of clothes.
If so, we aim to improve the concentration, perfection, and workmanship of each piece of clothing, and deliver even higher quality clothing to those who use it.
In today's world, there is a tendency for manufacturing to always progress in the direction of simplicity, but that is not the case with Araki Yuu.
That's why you can feel so much from the finished clothes.
And there are other places I would like you to see.
This tag.
Not.
Below that.
The back of the lining.
this.
Do you understand? ?
The lining overlaps and is hand sewn in place.
Usually, clothes that are lined are made larger on the back than on the front.
This is to prevent it from straining when you wear it and move.
However, the loose amount of the lining sometimes causes it to feel sluggish when worn.
Especially in Araki Yuu, the lining of the body is cotton.
To avoid discomfort when worn, the lining is designed to fit snugly when not in motion, and the overlapping fabric at the center of the back optimally follows your movements when you are in motion.
Even in the world of tailoring, it is said that a well-made tailored jacket will feel more comfortable after being worn for a while than the first time.
This also applies to Araki Yuu's clothes.
It's a detail that can't be seen from the outside, but by wearing it and moving, the clothes begin to fit the wearer's body.
I think this is a valuable asset, especially in the recent clothing market.
The switching of the lining is also super cool.
It's really cool, isn't it?
This lining switching line.
As I said earlier, there is a "line". seriously.
I think there are many different ways of thinking about "good clothes"...
This is exactly what it is.
I think anyone who looks at the back will be able to tell instantly.
I'm a heavy Araki Yuu user all over the world, so I've always wanted everyone to experience how great it is.
Well, physically there aren't enough of them to make it happen. lol
Height: 167cm, weight: 52kg, size 0.
MY uniform with early knicker bockers.
Knicker bockers are also good.
Well, the balance of the 4B jerkin jacket is as you can see.
It's been a while since I introduced Araki Yuu's clothes on this blog, so if you like them, please take a look.