Today, I would like to introduce A.PRESSE .
This time, it's so faithful to the original that it's incredible, and the processing expression is amazing.
It was delivered to our store a little while ago, but the actual season is just around the corner.
That's why I've decided to introduce it on this blog.
In the climate just a little while ago, I think it would have been cold even if I wore this fabric.
I think it's great for people who like vintage and old things in the upcoming season, and who wear full-length pants even in summer.
Vintage Prisoner Denim Trousers
It seems that the old prisoner pants that are thought to be in the 1940s became the source material.
The vintage prisoner denim owned by Mr. Shigematsu of A.PRESSE .
I was also shown the actual vintage that was the basis for that.
It's no longer similar or similar.
According to Mr. Shigematsu, the pants passed through the hands of various people over time, and through repeated repairs and customizations, the pants have remained the same today.
The original pants had the "P" and "W" "Prisoner of War " printed very faintly on the left and right thighs on the front.
And there was damage to the fabric over the course of about 80 years from now.
However, the only difference between the A.PRESSE pants introduced this time and the original vintage is that there is no mention of "PW" and the degree of damage is different.
This reproduction is a tremendously high level that no one can do.
This is really amazing.
It's real. Real. monophonic.
I have great workmanship.
First, these pants.
The fabric is very special.
It has a touch of fabric that is very close to what has been around for about 80 years.
It is close to the texture of a fabric that has lost weight in the same amount of time as a single human life.
It dries dry and feels a little paper touch.
And, above all, its shades.
When the original vintage was born, it was a dark blue rigid denim, but over the years, it has faded to almost white.
However, since the original still has the " vertical drop " that is peculiar to the old ones, the vertical drop is completely reproduced.
And from above, it was dyed pink.
The pink dyeing seemed to have dyed not only the outside of the pants, but also the whole pants, and the inside was dyed pink.
But even that pink faded a lot.
A dyed pink fading on top of that very faded vertical drop of denim.
And the color unevenness.
It perfectly reproduces the texture of Prisoner Denim fabric, which is difficult to find in the world.
When I was in my early twenties , I worked part-time at a vintage replica American casual brand jeans shop in Amemura. no one has been able to do it.
I think this level is unprecedented.
The original vintage PW denim was also artificially modified by the owner at the time, but the change was never intended.
Such past owner additions and spontaneous additions and long years of time.
As a result, the " prisoner denim " that has remained in the present has reached the same appearance state by human hands.
It's easy to imagine the incredible number of prototypes and trial-and-errors involved in creating this look.
However, in this pants, not only the fabric of the original story has changed, but also the details are perfectly the same.
Looking at the specifications, you can feel the mysterious elements of the original story.
First of all, " needle cinch " faithful to the original.
The left and right pockets are single beaded.
First of all, it's not a patch pocket at this point.
Even though it's denim, the detail of chino pants of this era.
Buttons on left side only.
I think this button is also not common in denim pants from that time.
And a fairly narrow waist band.
However, if you look at the middle of the waist band, it is switched at the center.
For normal denim pants, switching the waist belt doesn't exist.
I wonder if it's chino pants? ?
In today's terms, it's a switch that allows you to adjust the waist size, so it's a detail that can only be incorporated into slacks.
Of course, this part is also a reproduction of the original, so in the first place, "PW pants " , was it necessary to have a careful specification that greatly increased the number of production processes? ?
I think it's a detail that is obviously omitted if you think about it with a normal head.
If anyone knows please let me know. smile
Next, when you turn your attention to the front, there are side pockets.
Can you see this in the photo? ?
The mouth of this pocket is curved.
I'm not straight.
In the case of casual pants made in today's world, in the case of this pocket specification, most of the pocket openings are straight.
If it is curved, it should be curved more boldly to show the design in an easy-to-understand manner.
But the vintage one had a delicate curve.
It's pants for PW , so it's not overstated. smile
Even though they are POW pants, I can really feel how carefully they were made in those days.
And, as I said earlier, a fairly narrow waist belt.
Belt loop length is also short.
Good for thin belts.
However, this belt loop is not normal either.
How to attach it by sandwiching it between the waist belt and the inner facing cloth ( white fabric ) .
It's called " flowing " .
Also the bottom.
Both the top and bottom of the belt loops are carefully sewn inside instead of being sewn on top of the waist fabric.
Is it necessary to sew prisoners' pants so carefully? I have a lot of doubts, but does that mean that the old work was polite in everything?
The hem is finished with a width of 3 cm from the edge of the fabric like chino pants.
I don't think this is usually possible with denim pants.
In addition, both the inseam and outseam are sewn with " rolling stitching " .
It's work. work.
Due to the winding stitching and intense processing, the deep seam puckering has already been created.
Next, here is also characteristic.
The front opening is a button fly, but there are places where the button is attached. part of the fingertip.
The stitches are put in lockstitches between each button.
This is a specification to prevent the placket from opening.
In this way, the white fabric is sewn on the facing cloth, and after it is firmly reinforced and finished, it is further stitched to prevent it from opening.
What's more, this opening stitch is carefully placed only on the inside, not without stitching, so as not to interfere with the front.
This is the production process for creating perfectly tailored pants.
If it was a 5P jeans, this wouldn't have happened.
I wonder how far the original vintage was aiming for "PW pants " with a high level of completion.
However, A.PRESSE who reproduces it properly is also quite crazy.
There is a lot of detail packed in just around the waist.
As I mentioned earlier, the bag cloth in the pocket is also dyed pink.
The back of the belt is attached, and the original is well made.
And this A.PRESSE thing is also perfectly reproduced to the inner structure.
It's exactly the same as the original story that Mr. Shigematsu showed me, even from the inside.
The bag also has a bag.
It's not a patch pocket.
Attached to the left and right sides of the back.
I didn't notice it at all, but this part is sewn twice .
This is not what happened to be sewn twice , but the whole thing is like this.
Moreover, since two stitches overlap and are sewn, does it mean something?
And the inner overlock.
This is also very dangerous.
Coarse pitch overlock with thick thread.
This is also unique to those days.
It's overlocked, so the whole thing won't unravel, but the threads will come out from the edge of the fabric.
The interval and thread count of this overlock are also reproduced.
Even though the thread is new, it feels like time has passed. smile
At our shop, if there is a thread protruding from the overlock, we try to remove it cleanly.
A. Regarding the Prisoner Denim of PRESSE this time, even this part is the design, so I left it as it is.
So enjoy the inside.
The texture of the fabric is very light.
If you wear it, you can use it lightly in the season when the temperature rises.
It's not as light as shirt fabric, but it's pretty light.
It's made of a thinner fabric, due to the fact that it's been around 80 years old and because it reproduces the " thin " texture of the original fabric that passed through the hands of various owners.
It looks like this even when new.
A.PRESSE has outstanding processing level.
The overall color unevenness of the prisoner denim pants that became the original story.
I don't know if it was dyed by a professional at the time, or by an amateur, but over the years, the pink color has become uneven.
The appearance and texture are reproduced super faithfully. Loyalty to the original. Admiration.
From a brand new state, the fabric becomes more and more flimsy as you wear it and use it.
But that's fine. No, that's fine. these pants.
If I do that, I think second-hand clothing stores that carry vintage clothes and people who really like vintage clothes will say, "You're wearing something amazing." this.
It looks the same as the original, and the level of reproduction is unbelievable, but there is still a little of the hardness of the new one.
So now, at first, I'm going to pull it out anyway. I think it's going to be very important to turn it off.
If you do that, I think that the brand and craftsmanship will be completely integrated with the feeling of processing that has been done so far.
If so, it's complete.
A.PRESSE Prisoner Denim.
I am 178cm tall, weigh 60kg and wear size 1 .
I think it will be very good for the coming season.
If you like old things, take a look.