It's been a while since I wrote this blog properly.
I was itching to introduce it to everyone.
I wanted you to see it, I wanted you to see it, and now it's finally here.
I'll write it. Yamauchi.
This long blog.
Today, I would like to introduce two things.
A shirt and pants.
Neither of them are normal.
Quite a white thing.
I'm already impressed.
The shirt is made of a fabric that I am familiar with.
And this is the first time in my life that my pants look like this.
That's the kind of clothes.
Let me introduce you.
Yak wool standard shirt
material _ YAK 50%, SUPER 120S WOOL 50%
color _ YAK BEIGE (undyed)
First of all, this.
The fabric is yak wool from Kuzuri Keori in Aichi Prefecture.
18.5 micron yak and super 120 wool are ``blended'' into a ``worsted'' thread.
It's the "plain weave".
3 years? No, 4 years? Well, it doesn't matter either way, but Yamauchi and I had made a three-piece piece out of yak wool fabric a while back.
If customers who have been visiting our store for a while are reading this blog, I'm sure some of them will be able to catch my eye.
It is the same fabric as the "yak wool" at that time. this.
At the time, for the special order, Kuzuri Keori told me, ``Yak'' cotton (the raw material before it becomes thread), which can be made into worsted wool, is no longer available, so I had it at Kuzuri Keori. I was given the opportunity to use all the fabrics I had, and made three types of clothes: coats, jackets, and pants.
This fabric is no longer available. That's what I thought.
Then, a few years later.
It seems like I got yak made from raw materials of the same quality. Mr. Kuri. lol
So, it's revived.
At that time, "shirts" were not made at our store.
As the name suggests, it's called a standard shirt, but in the past few seasons Yamauchi's sizing has been a little large, but my impression is that it's back to its previous size, so it's just the right size.
Introducing a shirt that stands out for its quality of fabric and level of sewing.
But, this fabric is amazing.
People who have custom-made clothes from our store back then still use them today, and I find them so comfortable that I still use them a lot.
As mentioned earlier, it is a mix of 18.5 micron yak and SUPER 120S wool, which is equally fine.
Both are undyed and are made with the colors of the fibers themselves, but because they are not dyed, the potential of the raw materials is overflowing.
This is Kuzuri Keori, who specializes in ``worsted'' hair.
A 50% blend with the maximum amount of yak that can achieve Kuzuri-san quality.
Its plain weave.
I think everyone will be able to feel the melt-in-your-mouth texture of the fabric, no matter where they touch it or how they touch it.
And I also know the price per meter of this fabric, and it's quite expensive.
However, it is a fabric that has an even greater aura than that.
As for the fibers, as I mentioned earlier, they are ``18.5 micron Yak'' and ``SUPER 120S,'' but the yarn is ``60 count twin yarn.''
In other words, it is a thin raw material, but it is quite thick.
When you wear it, the thickness of the threads and the tightness of the stitches make it feel light but heavy.
As for the fabric, it has no unevenness, has a well-defined pattern, and flows down.
The smoothness unique to Kuzuri Keori, the resilience of the plain weave, and the comfortable weight.
The color and shine unique to undyed fabrics.
It's "exquisite". this.
I thought about it when I wore it myself, but seriously, everyone should try this on.
Because it's a great fabric.
Can you tell from the photo?
The way this fabric falls naturally.
But it's not just the fabric.
Super Yamauchi quality is about how to shape that into clothes.
The collar has sharp edges.
And the pitch of this hand movement.
Everything is sewn onto the worsted fabric using 21 stitches per 3cm interval.
In reality, the fabric swells, so it's already a point, so the sewing thread is a point.
The buttons are brown pearl buttons that match the undyed yak wool.
Features a natural brown color.
I won't hide the fact that the buttons are attached because the viewer will know right away when they see it, but this time, I used a sewing machine.
Up until now, Yamauchi's shirts had all buttons attached by hand, but depending on the item and who is doing the sewing, the buttons are attached by hand or by machine.
Well, there are many ways to do this, but I think a sewing machine is sufficient for buttoning shirts.
The sleeve openings and cuffs are also made of the same brown butterfly shell.
The opening of the cuffs is a specification that utilizes the switching of two sleeves.
Even so, the cuffs are sewn at a neat level with no flaws.
The cufflinks have a naturally soft interlining that matches the fabric.
So, the back.
I have no complaints about the back.
Each part is sewn with the best sewing specifications.
The collar on the back of the neck is also wonderful.
There is a mixture of bag stitches, fine overlock stitches, folded down stitches, etc.
Well, the stitches are very carefully and carefully sewn. If you think so, that's fine.
Mr. Mizuide of Fashion Izumi in Saitama Prefecture is well known for sewing.
I had a drink with Mizude-san for the first time a few months ago, and it looks like the time will finally come when Mizuide-san will be at our store. lol
As expected, the quality of sewing by Mr. Mizuide of Fashion Izumi is very good.
And this shirt.
Yes, washing is OK.
This is very important.
I also tried washing my own custom-made yak wool pants made by Yamauchi, and they melted really well.
Moreover, the shrinkage is also quite stable.
This quality worsted fabric, designed by Kuzuri Keori and woven on a Schonherr loom, takes on a new level of quality when washed.
Super level up.
So, if you like this kind of shirt, I think it would be great to wash it before use.
After that, I think you'll start to notice the quality of the fabric and the level of the materials more and more.
The daytime temperatures are still high right now, but once the weather cools down, I think this shirt can be used for ultra-heavy use.
Kuzuri Keori's quality fabrics, Fashion Izumi's high level of sewing, and Yamauchi's extremely detailed designs.
You can wear it normally, and it has the name “Standard” on it, but If you use it a lot, I think you'll be able to fully experience the charm of a shirt that is completely different from your ordinary ones.
Genuine indigo dyed wool easy tapered pants
Like the yak wool shirt I mentioned earlier, it is a worsted 100% wool that is woven using Kuzuri Keori's Shonherr loom.
These pants are dyed using real indigo dyeing.
This collection is the first time Yamauchi has used indigo dyeing, and this is one of them.
"Genuine indigo dyeing".
In the first place, indigo dyeing is sometimes referred to as ``shoai-zome'' (true indigo dyeing) or ``hon-aizome'' (true indigo dyeing), but it depends on the region in which the indigo dyeing is carried out. Looks like it's going to change.
This time, the brand used indigo dyeing by a young craftsman from Nara Prefecture.
He seems to be a craftsman who has a field behind the dyeing factory, where he grows ``tadeai'', which is the raw material for indigo dyeing.
It seems that he takes the time to do everything by himself, from growing the indigo to fermenting it to the actual dyeing process.
Until now, Mr. Yamauchi had not been good at the "redness" characteristic of deep indigo dyeing.
Therefore, the brand has not used indigo dyeing.
However, a craftsman in Nara Prefecture seems to be exploring ways to create a deep blue color even with deep indigo dyeing.
However, as mentioned earlier, this process takes time, and the indigo construction process, which normally takes one week, takes twice as long as two weeks and is carried out slowly and at low temperatures.
In addition, even though the finished clothes are a deep indigo color, in order to minimize the redness, they are dyed with "light indigo dye" over and over again, and it takes a long time to dye them. I dyed it by applying it.
The reason for "over and over again" is that once a thin indigo dye is applied, there is also a "drying" process, so the process of "dying thinly and drying" is repeated over and over again. It will be done.
This results in a deep blue indigo dye with as little redness as possible, and also minimizes the fading that is common with natural dyes.
A deep blue indigo dyed in the mountains.
The color is so deep that you can't tell it's indigo dyed at first glance.
This is the "limiting concentration of indigo".
The fabric has an incredibly deep and powerful aura.
When you look at the completed pants, each part has a different color.
This is also something unique to Yamauchi.
Each piece of fabric is cut into lengths of just over 2 meters and is dyed with indigo.
The fabric becomes one pair of pants.
In other words, each pair of pants is made entirely of fabric from the same lot.
However, the characteristic of these pants is that the colors are slightly different.
The slight difference in color between the two meters of fabric is unique to natural dyeing.
We take advantage of that and create one-of-a-kind pants.
This color unevenness differs from piece to piece.
However, everything is made of deep blue.
Enjoy this color as something unique to these pants.
The shape of the pants is easy pants that do not open at the waistband.
As for the base fabric, it's from Kuzuri Keori, and I believe it's SUPER 120S.
This fabric too.
According to Yamauchi, the higher the quality of the wool, the deeper the color can be achieved, so the indigo dyeing of Kuzuri Keori's fabric was perfect for the clothes he was aiming for.
The photos were taken in a location with lots of natural light so that you can see the texture of the fabric as it is, and the deep colors and the natural beauty of the wool fabric are clearly visible.
The fabric itself is a worsted material with a bulge that is very suitable for fall and winter, but I think that the repeated indigo dyeing makes it even more dense.
This type of natural dyeing usually leaves the fabric dry and dry to the touch, but this time Yamauchi's is non-non-non.
It's not dry at all.
Because it's the quality of Katsuri's fabric, it has a silky texture and shine that really shines.
From behind the deep indigo color, the drape and luster of the heavy fabric peek out.
"Kuzuri Woolen × Indigo Dyeing with Limit Concentration"
This is a dream collaboration. lol
Well, a price is a price.
Still, the selling price is not as high as Arashan Cashmere or Ferreira Mohair. not at all.
However, the aura is first class.
The front opens and closes with an Excella zipper.
The belt loops are also very finely sewn.
And the back.
The sewing specifications on the back are also perfect.
As you can see, there is no lining.
Of course, there is no discomfort around the feet.
It should make you feel incredibly good.
The waist specification on the back is a surprising Yamauchi specification.
This is Yamauchi's original, but because we place importance on the waist fitting and sense of security when wearing it, it is designed with facings.
A separate 100% cotton black fabric is sewn on the back of the waist. That's what we call a return.
On the back of the endpaper, there is another endpaper.
The back of the waist even has a facing.
Normally, pants wouldn't be designed like that.
The number of steps increases significantly, it takes more work, and it also takes more time, but we don't make it easily.
This greatly improves comfort and durability for long-term wear.
That is Mr. Yamauchi's aim.
I think everyone will instantly feel a sense of security when they wear these pants.
That is Yamauchi quality clothing.
Anyway, it's carefully crafted.
She may have a simple appearance, but she pays close attention to every detail when designing her clothes.
That's why we are able to continue to use it heavily without hesitation for those who have acquired it.
This is a part that clearly shows what the brand considers very important. What are the specifications on the back?
He is 167cm tall and weighs 52kg, and wears a size 3 shirt and size 2 pants.
The pants are a little long for me, but in the photo, they're worn high up at the waist.
The pants are designed to allow a little bit of the fabric at the hem to collect on the shoes, so I think they are the best balance for fall and winter.
Well, if you feel the length is too long, you can hem it up, but I think most people will find this to be fine.
For the shirt, I wanted to get the maximum feel of the yak wool, and when I thought about washing it, even though the shrinkage was stable, I thought it would shrink a little, so I decided to take the appropriate amount. I'm wearing a size 3 because I think it's good.
I think the pants have a very manly outline.
I think it has a shape that all adult men will like, except for those who like wide-leg pants. It's not flashy though. In a good way.
The quality of Kuzuri Keori's fabrics is evident, and the shirts and pants are made with the brand's meticulous design.
I think both are at a pretty high level.
I hope that those who get their hands on it will use it very heavily.
The more you use the shirts and pants, the more you will notice that they improve in appearance and feel.
If you like it, please experience it for yourself.