Hello.
This is Noguchi from CASANOVA&CO.
Today, I'd like to talk about this event starting this weekend.
IRENISA 26SS / LIMITED STORE
2026.03.14 (SAT) - 2026.03.18 (WED)
The IRENISA limited store starts this Saturday.
During the event, we will be launching the 3rd delivery of the 26SS season, along with additional variations.
Among the 26SS collection, or rather, among all 12 IRENISA collections to date, what excited me most was the fabric I introduced at the end of my previous blog post.
I have no intention of ranking things, and I believe that all in-line items created by a brand are manifestations of that brand's essence, so I think they're all amazing. But this particular one really hit me hard.
It's a power fabric that has been quite strongly crafted, especially now that IRENISA is gaining more recognition.
Moreover, the craftsmanship isn't hidden in subtle details; it's something that makes anyone who sees it wonder, "How did they do that?"
It's not something only for those "who get it," but rather something with a visual magnetism that draws everyone in, and a depth of background waiting for those who are drawn in.
It's quite incredible.
IRENISA
DOUBLE-BREASTED CHESTER COAT
color _ BEIGE
size _ 2
IRENISA
SHORT LENGTH SHIRT BLOUSE
color _ BEIGE
size _ 1
IRENISA
REVERSIBLE TIGHT SKIRT
color _ BEIGE
size _ 1
Currently, we have these three types in stock.
A men's Chester coat, and a women's blouse and skirt.
The 3rd delivery also includes pants and a short-sleeved shirt, so I think you'll be able to see them at the event. (The short-sleeved shirt might not make it in time for the event...)
I think I selected every single piece of clothing IRENISA offers in this fabric, didn't I?
When I heard Mr. Kobayashi and Ms. Abe talk at the exhibition, I was completely captivated.
According to them, the origin of this fabric was a certain fabric sample that a textile manufacturer had.
When they visited a textile manufacturer in Kiryu, they were shown an enormous collection of samples that the manufacturer owned.
Among those vast samples, there was a fabric that would become the inspiration for this IRENISA collection.
The fabric, named "Hogushi-ori" (loosened weave).
According to what I heard, it seems the fabric was produced by that same textile manufacturer around the 1960s, but due to its extreme difficulty and inefficiency in production, it can no longer be produced by that manufacturer today.
It's what you might call a lost technology.
So, what exactly is this "Hogushi-ori" fabric?
From this point on, I haven't seen the actual product myself, and the information is based on what I heard at the exhibition, so some parts might be difficult to convey, but please use your imagination to fill in the gaps. (laughs)
In a word, "Hogushi-ori" is a technique of "weaving with prints applied only to the warp threads."
...At this point, question marks were already swirling around my head.
My question of "Is it even possible to print only on the warp threads?" wasn't wrong, it seems.
First, "roughly weave in the weft threads for temporary weaving."
Then, "print with a plate."
Next, "remove the weft threads."
Finally, "do the main weaving."
That's the process by which "Hogushi-ori" was made, which explains why it became a lost technology.
It seems the name "Hogushi" (loosening) came from the act of "removing the weft threads."
The patterns printed only on the surface of the warp threads through this unbelievably painstaking process would become blurred from their original state during the main weaving, as the weft threads flew back and forth at high speed, causing the warp threads to rotate and twist. This technique reportedly allowed for expressions that appeared as if layers of patterns were overlapping.
Just as I exclaimed, "What is that!?" at the exhibition, Mr. Kobayashi and Ms. Abe apparently felt the same way at the Kiryu textile factory, saying, "We want to do this!" However, as I wrote earlier, this "Hogushi-ori" is a lost technology.
If that's the case, they had no choice but to create a new technique to produce "blurred pattern layers."
And so, this fabric was born.
On a base beige fabric, there are blurred purple and green patterns, and overlaid on top, ivory plant patterns that resemble embroidery.
The patterns beautifully crossover.
However, this is not "Hogushi-ori," but rather a "jacquard" technique that IRENISA developed this time.
In other words, the aforementioned "embroidered plant pattern" is not embroidery, but rather a woven expression using jacquard.
What's special, however, is that the "jacquard plant pattern" is overlaid on top of the "printed pattern."
The jacquard pattern is created while the fabric is being woven.
In contrast, the printed pattern is applied onto the fabric after it has been woven.
Therefore, originally, the "printed pattern" should overlap the "jacquard pattern."
However, it's the other way around.
The print is in the background, and the jacquard is in the foreground.
This time, IRENISA created the jacquard pattern with "polyester yarn," printed the entire fabric with "special ink," and then "washed the fabric" to remove the print only from the polyester parts.
This makes it appear as if embroidery has been applied over a printed fabric, even though normally the print would overlap the jacquard.
I don't know if there was ever a precedent for this kind of technique, but IRENISA, inspired by "Hogushi-ori," has created an expression that reverses the inevitable layering order from the original process.
It's quite groundbreaking.
This is beyond cool.
And as I mentioned at the beginning, the result of this effort effortlessly transcends the realm of "cool because it's niche," possessing a captivating charm that draws you in at first glance.
The fact that something imbued with so much background, ingenuity, and technique can also be visually appealing is truly incredible.
Normally, these two don't go hand in hand.
But it's so cool that it catches your eye at first glance, and it strongly embodies IRENISA's unique style.
The material is 65% rayon and 35% polyester.
Since it's a light fabric, enough to make pants and short-sleeved shirts, this coat also feels light despite its generous volume.
However, thin shoulder pads are added to prevent it from becoming a sloppy overcoat, striking a balance between lightness and IRENISA's characteristic allure and tension.
It's truly IRENISA to achieve such a dignified silhouette despite the lightness of the fabric.
I believe that only with excellent patterning and beautiful lines can one gracefully wear and drape such a fabric.
When the wearer stops moving, the clothes naturally return to their proper position, creating a beautiful silhouette.
Only such clothes look beautiful when worn with volume.
Just by throwing it over IRENISA's classic set-up, you can instantly change the whole vibe.
For those who wonder "how to wear it," please try it on once.
I think you'll be surprised.
Women's blouse & skirt.
It would be disastrous if I wore it, so I had the mannequin wear it.
The blouse features a drawcord at the hem, allowing for blousing.
The skirt has a dark beige organza attached at the waist.
The skirt is, in fact, reversible.
As mentioned earlier, this fabric features jacquard and printed patterns, so when reversed, the printed pattern becomes translucent, while the jacquard pattern shimmers depending on how the light hits it.
I think it's incredibly stylish to reverse the skirt and wear it as a set.
For all women who have an IRENISA fan for a husband or boyfriend, I highly recommend trying this out.
If you wear a jacket over this set, it might even work for a casual wedding.
Gentlemen, there are also pants and short-sleeved shirts in this fabric, so please look forward to those.
We're likely to have quite a lineup ready for the 14th, but I think items will arrive tomorrow, so I'll introduce the main lineup again on Friday.