Hello.
This is Noguchi from CASANOVA&CO.
Today, I'll be talking about daisuke tanabe "syvash," which starts on the 14th.
This photo was posted on Instagram yesterday.
This is the mouton used in the 2025AW season.
This is seriously amazing.
Unbelievable lightness and suppleness.
And a surface texture I've never seen before.
I think you'll be very impressed when you see it in person.
Please allow me to introduce a few things.
daisuke tanabe
atlas
color _ blonze blue
size _ 2,3 (sample size 3)
First up is this.
The "atlas" jacket, lavishly made from mouton.
This daisuke tanabe mouton jacket differs from many other mouton jackets on the market.
That is,
It uses "mouton for clothing."
Isn't that obvious?
For those of you who thought that, I thought the same thing.
For example, that famous brand known for its mouton boots.
That mouton is said to use raw hides from Australia.
The characteristic of Australian raw hide mouton is that it's tough and sturdy.
So, it's apparently very suitable for use in boots and bags.
On the other hand, if you try to use it for clothing and make a jacket like this, it inevitably ends up heavy and stiff.
While brands that propose rugged styles consider this weight and stiffness acceptable, with the idea of "breaking it in," daisuke tanabe is different.
So, what's the difference?
Specifically, daisuke tanabe's mouton uses raw hides from France.
This "France" part is key.
France, like Australia, has a strong lamb-eating culture.
Many of the leathers used in the fashion industry come from animals processed for meat, so it's closely related to this food culture, but there seems to be a difference in the size of the sheep preferred for lamb meat in Australia and France.
In Australia, larger individual lambs are common compared to other countries, while in France, smaller individual lambs, closer to young sheep, are distributed.
This difference in individual size is very important.
It's true for any type of leather or animal hair: from birth, as an individual grows, its skin and fibers gradually become tougher.
The French raw hide mouton used by daisuke tanabe comes from small individual hides circulated based on French food culture, so the leather isn't thick yet, making it incredibly light and supple.
However, there's a downside, and as I've mentioned repeatedly, it's the small size of the individual animals.
Because the individuals are small, the amount of usable leather from one hide is limited, and it's difficult to get a large yield, which inevitably drives up the price of the finished product.
Moreover, just because it's small doesn't mean the market price drops, so it still costs a lot.
These are the disadvantages of French raw hides.
That's why not many people use it, apparently.
However, I believe that daisuke tanabe's mouton, created with such dedication, has become truly remarkable because of that.
The front is zip-up, allowing you to raise the neck to cover your throat.
You won't even need a scarf in the dead of winter.
From the quality of the stitching visible when the neck is raised, you can feel how daisuke tanabe makes clothes.
Although it's quite thick mouton, the stitching here is also incredibly fine.
I think you can wear it with confidence.
Although the logo isn't visible, the zipper is riri.
I believe all of daisuke tanabe's clothes generally have riri zippers.
And leather tape is placed next to the zipper, around the neck, and at the armholes.
Like this.
The pile of the mouton is also of undeniable density and quality.
While the quality of the raw hide itself and the perfection as clothing are truly wonderful, this mouton also reflects the collection's theme.
That is the "surface texture" I mentioned at the beginning.
As per yesterday's blog, the theme for 25AW is "syvash."
A season where life began to stir in a desolate world.
A collection that expresses the conflict between man-made objects left in that desolate world and nature, including life itself.
The most illustrative example is this photo.
The surface of the mouton jacket shines as if it were metal.
Mouton, or sheep leather, has the grain side with hair, while smooth leathers like lamb leather have the hair removed and then are tanned to become leather.
Therefore, when using mouton for clothing or shoes, the suede side is almost always used as the outer surface.
Since it's a suede surface, it shouldn't shine like smooth leather.
However, daisuke tanabe brushes and applies friction to the suede surface (the outer surface of the clothing), "floating the silver" from the glossy layer inside the leather.
Furthermore, by dyeing it in two stages, black and green, the "silver grain" of black shows through the gaps in the green surface, floating to the top.
I feel like it'd be better to ask Tanabe-san directly for the details, but anyway, I've never seen mouton processed like this before.
And it simply looks incredibly cool.
This mouton, like the raw hide, was apparently requested from a French tannery, and they communicated by sending the tannery photos of old bronze artifacts as an image reference.
They asked for a texture like that.
Focusing on artificial and natural objects, he was attracted to things with metallic expressions, and he thought that if he used the method above with mouton, he might be able to express that.
Tanabe-san is amazing.
The contrast between the parts that shine like metal and the original suede-like expression of the mouton becomes incredibly distinct depending on how the light hits it.
I'll say it again: I've never seen mouton like this.
And the fact that it's super light is practically cheating.
This mouton is also used in another style.
daisuke tanabe
poseidon
color _ blonze blue
size _ 2,3 (sample size 3)
This.
When spread out, it looks like a rectangular mouton blanket, but it has buttons, so it can be worn as a wrap skirt or a cape.
Buttons on the front too.
And buttons on the back.
Because the raw hide is small, it can't be this size without seams, but they used those seams to create pockets.
I didn't take a picture, but the pocket lining is also super luxurious mouton.
Some of you might say, "A wrap skirt or a cape sounds too challenging," but it's simply incredibly warm, so it can double as outerwear, and when you're not using it, just turn it into a blanket in your car.
First, a photo of the jacket being worn.
I'm 178cm and 60kg, wearing size 3.
We only have sample size 3 available, but generally, size 2 would be for someone around 175cm or shorter, and size 3 for taller individuals.
Side view.
Because it's supple mouton, you won't feel any unpleasant bulkiness.
The precision of this shape with mouton is amazing.
This is what it looks like with the neck raised.
The shimmering bronze mouton in motion is exquisite.
And here's the cape version of Poseidon.
I think you can use it like a blanket or a large stole as outerwear.
It also offers more freedom in terms of styling.
By positioning the buttons on the shoulder, one arm's movement is completely unrestricted, so there shouldn't be much restriction on movement.
It has a metallic sheen, so it looks like mouton armor.
Wrap skirt version.
I think this is also super cool.
A set-up offers unbeatable warmth and luxury.
You can see and order these in store starting tomorrow, so please come take a look.
Also, this time, when placing an order, please make a 50% deposit.
The price isn't cheap, so I think this will make it easier for you to consider.
While I was writing this blog, it was suddenly decided that you'll also be able to see the lineup other than mouton.
While it's not the full 25AW lineup, I think it's enough to give you a good understanding of daisuke tanabe.
Let me give you a quick sneak peek.
daisuke tanabe's original textile, 100% silk.
There are also jackets, coats, and hunting caps.
Italian calf riders jacket,
Plant-dyed Tuscan mouton stole,
Outwear and pants made from the highest quality "authentic Ventile" from the UK.
Quite a special approach to knitwear.
All of these items are now available for order.
Of course, the non-mouton lineup is also very much daisuke tanabe, so please look forward to it.
We look forward to your visit starting tomorrow.
I'll be waiting with Tanabe-san on Saturday and Sunday.