Hello.
This is Nakayama from CASANOVA&CO.
This time, it's COMOLI.
I think it's been about a year since I last wrote on the blog.
I remember writing about spring and summer clothes last time as well.
At that time, something I personally wanted to know about was the unlined tailoring, which is also in the title.
There are several items in COMOLI's lineup that are made with the same specifications.
Among them, this time we'll look at this one made with KHADI cotton.
COMOLI
KHADI Cotton Jacket
color _ WHITE
size _ 1,2,3
※Size 1 is sold out.
KHADI Cotton Drawstring Pants
color _ BLACK
size _ 1,2,3
Although some of you may already know, let me briefly explain unlined tailoring.
Unlined tailoring, simply put, is tailoring where the outer fabric and lining are made from the same material.
When you search online for unlined tailoring, it often says things like:
"Luxurious finish" or "the height of extravagance."
That's certainly true.
Simply put, you're using nearly double the amount of outer fabric for one garment.
However, when I wore COMOLI's unlined garments, I immediately sensed that they weren't made with such an intention.
It felt like they were trying to leverage some characteristic of unlined tailoring.
That's why I myself wore the KHADI Cotton Jacket extensively.
I've even washed it.
In conclusion, I was very convinced by COMOLI's delivery at this time of year.
・A soft, enveloping comfort
・Moderate breathability that isn't too airy
・A light feel that doesn't feel like a jacket at all
These three points were particularly strongly felt.
It's warm when the sun is out, and chilly on cloudy or rainy days.
It's that in-between season, neither spring nor summer, where you want to exclaim, "What should I wear?!"
And then,
I realized, "Ah, this is what I should have been wearing."
I'll introduce COMOLI's unlined tailoring, focusing on the three points I just mentioned.
First of all, the KHADI cotton fabric used is quite thin when it's a single layer.
The pocket part is made of a single piece of fabric.
It's thin enough to clearly see your finger through it.
The unlined tailoring of KHADI cotton means that this fabric is used for both the outer and inner layers of the body and arms, with two layers overlapping.
I apologize if it's very difficult to see, but this is the outer fabric on the shoulder part slightly pinched.
You can faintly see the lining showing through.
Yes, there are two layers.
All sewing areas, such as the armholes, shoulder lines, and side seams of the body, are sewn separately for the outer fabric and lining.
※This is the inside of the armhole.
Eh, does that mean it uses almost double the fabric, and the sewing process for the outer fabric is also done for the lining?
Since the outer fabric and lining are properly connected by stitching in certain parts, the fabric does not feel stiff or shift when worn.
Thanks to these specifications, the part that touches the skin is simply two layers of outer fabric and lining overlapping.
This results in a wearing comfort that feels like you're softly wrapped in air.
It's hard for me to put this comfort into words.
However,
I certainly felt that "this is the comfort I wanted" during this time of year when I tend to wonder what to wear!
However, with such a soft and comfortable feel, one might worry if it would be too hot on warm days, right?
I thought the same thing while writing this article.
That's where the thin fabric I mentioned earlier comes in.
A single layer is thin enough for midsummer, allowing wind to pass through.
The unlined tailoring has two layers overlapping, providing just enough breathability to prevent stuffiness.
COMOLI's garment making is truly amazing, even controlling and designing the air itself.
I was once again surprised by COMOLI's approach to making clothes.
Things made from luxury materials, rare and unseen items, or those created by historic companies, can all be evaluated as "good fabrics."
Of course, KHADI cotton is one of them.
Something that can be considered "good" even when used as is.
COMOLI doesn't just stop at "good," but instead finds new ways to utilize it and discover new possibilities, turning it into something "even better."
If you are someone who loves clothes, you might have seen it too much, and when you see KHADI cotton, you might think "Oh, KHADI" and it might not feel that fresh to you.
However, COMOLI's unlined KHADI is surely fresh.
COMOLI's unlined tailoring, which is so well-crafted that you can feel it the moment you put it on, is truly excellent.
The best way to wear it is over sleeveless tops like tank tops or camisoles.
Honestly, you can wear anything as an inner layer, but based on my own trials, I believe that the less sleeves the inner layer has, the better it pairs.
Although it's called a jacket in the product name, that's just referring to its shape.
I think the jacket was probably the best form to maximize the use of KHADI cotton with unlined tailoring.
However, I also thought that the balance of the atmosphere when worn was maintained precisely because it was a jacket.
Most of the interlining is not used.
I believe only the upper collar has interlining. That's just by feel, though.
So, it feels almost the same as throwing on a shirt.
Because of the gorge line, the neckline is neat, and air flows in, making it even more comfortable. A shirt wouldn't achieve this.
However, I think some people might be concerned about the original point.
White, huh?
That may be so.
Even though it's light and comfortable, it's still a jacket in shape.
I think fewer people are accustomed to white jackets.
Excluding those who particularly love white jackets, some people might only wear them for weddings.
I've included photos of me wearing it with pants later, and I think visually, the unlined tailoring's soft, airy feel combined with the jacket's neat shape creates an unexpectedly appealing impression.
This WHITE, I suppose, is COMOLI's take on a relaxed feel.
Now, moving on to the pants.
Since I've thoroughly discussed COMOLI's unlined tailoring up until now, I hope you can imagine that same comfort extending to the pants.
However, the pants are BLACK.
Compared to WHITE, it has a slightly drier touch.
The major difference is that most of the seams are sewn with both the outer fabric and lining together.
Both the front and back panels are in an unlined state, where the fabrics simply overlap.
Even looking at the photo, the body part is soft, but the sewn parts feel stiff.
The specifications are completely different from the jacket.
I sense some intention behind it.
It might be for durability, but I also thought that perhaps the stiffness in these parts helps to shape the silhouette when worn.
In fact, they create a good shape.
Even though it doesn't create a crisp, sharp form, I think COMOLI's good shape is one that somehow feels comfortable.
It's beautifully arranged in an instant when I move.
It also has a front zip, so it's secure.
Here are the fitting photos.
Noguchi (178cm, 60kg) was asked to wear size 2 for the photos.
The inner layer is a COMOLI Summer Wool Tank Top.
The COMOLI 25SS collection adds white to an all-black style.
Certainly, if it were any other color, it would seem too intentional, and while ecru might work, I feel it would blend in too much.
So, white it is.
That's what I thought.
Both the fabric and the shape are soft and rumpled; it no longer feels too formal.
At first, it was so fresh that I thought, "Oh, it's white," but it was a white that I got used to. As expected from COMOLI.
As for me, I don't wear much black, so I wear it with bleached, worn-out denim and leather kung fu shoes.
There are no cuffs, but the arm shape has a distinct forward curve, like a jacket.
It's amazing how this delicate fabric still holds its shape so well.
However, the right amount of wrinkles is just perfect.
While it feels similar to a shirt, the jacket-like thickness of the arms, felt in motion, keeps it from looking too casual, maintaining a slight tension within the relaxation.
Just right.
Speaking personally, this is pretty much my style.
Rolled up, rolled up.
Even so, the forward curve of the arm remains.
The wearing photos show it more clearly, but in BLACK, a unique luster emerges.
The silhouette falls into place in unexpected moments.
In the SS season, where coolness tends to be the focus, if you divide the seasons more finely, you might lose sight of clothing for this time that is neither spring nor summer.
In reality, there are few clothes truly suitable for such a time, making it difficult to imagine what to look for.
Once you wear KHADI cotton double-layered tailoring, you might find some kind of guidepost.
CASANOVA&CO
Masaharu Nakayama