tilt the authentics shirt


Yesterday, we introduced MEDIUM SPORTS WEAR, a new brand of OLDE HOMESTEADER, and today we will introduce tilt The authentics.




Mr. Nakatsu is making high quality shirts again this time.




For me, it's commonly known as the "Perfect Shirt".



overall balance.




When I made the shirt with The CLASIK and DJA's GIZA 45 No. 330 4 twisted twill, it was a little dressy due to the nature of the fabric, but when I thought about it from a different perspective, this time tilt The authentics. , a considerable one.




Having said that, there were various trade-offs, and I hadn't ordered a large quantity, so today I asked Mr. Nakatsu if he had any in stock, and he didn't have a single item.




That's why we only have a very small number of items that we can give to those who like them, and the maximum number of items we have is 3, so I regret that I wanted to introduce this to more people.




But, but, it's still a long way off, but I think the time will come when I'll be able to deliver the specialties with Mr. Nakatsu to everyone, so at that time, let me introduce you to a lot.




So, this time we will introduce the "perfect shirt" that ended up not being in large quantities.







tilt The authentics
SILK LINEN NO STITCH SHIRT


material _ SILK 78%, LINEN 22%

color_ECRU

size_1,2,3







tilt The authentics
SILK LINEN NO STITCH SHIRT



material _ SILK 78%, LINEN 22%

color_CHARCOAL

size_1,2,3




this.



As the name suggests, this shirt is called "NO STITCH".



No stitch.



It's a shirt with as few stitches exposed on the front as possible.




We are familiar with Mr. Mizude of "Fashion Izumi" who sews with such specifications.



In terms of shirts, it's probably the top rank in Japan.



A highly skilled sewing factory.




At our shop, besides tilt The authentics, it's Yamauchi.



Many of Yamauchi's shirts are sewn at Mizude's place.




You know, the shirts sewn by Fashion Izumi are quiet, but they have a unique aura.




I've already gotten used to seeing the level of sewing on this shirt, so it's amazing.



Compared to other shirts, the atmosphere is completely different.




After all, for example, even if the clothes are the same, the quality of the finished product will be completely different depending on who sews it.



Even with the same blueprint and the same materials, the difference after completion is obvious depending on the skill of the sewer.



However, with this shirt, the stitches are barely visible on the front.







Collar too. Placket too. The joint between the bodice and sleeves.



In this photo, only the buttonhole has stitches on the front.




When it comes to clothes, when I tell you the level of sewing, I often judge by "stitches that appear on the surface", but this is not on the surface at all.



Literally, the technology is "hidden inside".



A shirt that generously incorporates such sewing techniques.







Collar, placket.







Joining the bodice and sleeves.







arm joint. cuffs.



No stitches appear on the front anywhere in this.







This is the only place where you can see the stitches from the front, except for the buttonholes.



Tri-fold processing part of the hem.




This part is absolutely necessary for shirts.







There is no placket on the front, but there is a placket on the back.



It is a "back placket" specification.




On the surface, the shirt has few details anyway.



However, to that extent, it is "sharpened, sharpened".



The processing of the tri-fold part of the hem is even processing with super precision.




Well, I'll tell you a little more about sewing later, including the back side.







About fabric.



The fabric is an original made by Yamaei Keori in Aichi Prefecture by tilt The authentics.



The blend ratio is 78% silk and 22% linen.




If you're a regular reader of this blog, you might know just by looking at the photos, but silk is spun silk thread.




What is silk spun yarn?



・Raw silk



・Silk thread



・Silk spinning



・Silk spun yarn




It's one of the stages.



There are silk spun yarns in the world, but since it is silk spun yarn arranged by Yamaei Keori, you can rest assured of its quality.




The fabric is called "butcher cloth". Although the name of the fabric is not often seen, butcher cloth is originally linen, and it is a strong and rugged thick fabric that is irregularly switched between plain weave and odd weave to create strong unevenness on the surface.




It would be nice if you could think of it as the ultimate version.







The warp is a single thread of thick silk spun yarn with a mysterious number of 17 counts.



For the weft, a single thread of 17-count silk spun yarn and a single thread of 33-count linen, which is almost half as fine, are used.



It is woven with it.




At 78%, the silk that occupies a large area of ​​this fabric is a thick thread, and it is also called silk spun pongee thread, and the unevenness and knots of the thread appear irregularly, and it is very expressive to anyone who looks at it.




Moreover, the stitches where the warp and weft intersect are so beautiful that they are not jagged.



Also, just a feeling, is it thick at first? I think, but the thread is thick and the fabric is woven with plain weave, so there are plenty of gaps for the wind to pass through.




When it's new, it feels comfortable to wear, but after washing it, it's strange and mysterious.



You will start to feel lighter.




In addition to that, thick threads are mixed with silk and linen (using different materials in the warp and weft), so when washed, the unevenness will appear even more.




Even a brand-new shirt is said to be a "perfect shirt", so that's how good it is.




To "beyond" that I wore a lot.







And back.



There are several reasons why I call this Tilt The Authentics shirt "perfect".




·material



·Sewing



·pattern




This complex combination is largely because it matches at a tremendously high level.




The reason why I decided to write this blog today was when I was writing about MEDIUM SPORTS WEAR sweatshirts yesterday, I thought, "Oh, this is the one for tomorrow."




Mr. Nakatsu from tilt The authentic and Mr. Fukuhara from MEDIUM SPORTS WEAR are very important people to me because they are facing fashion making.




Anything simple, not just clothes, can't be deceived.



So this shirt doesn't skimp on any of it.




When you wear it, and when you keep wearing it, it will be a very big benefit to the owner.



The comfort is the same, and so is the appearance, including the fabric and shape.



It's "sharpened" anyway.




Besides, Nakatsu-san is close to my age, and I've been dealing with Tilt The Authentics since it debuted. And I'm doing something that ordinary people can't think of.




As tilt the authentics, Mr. Nakatsu's brand clothes show how much time and effort he puts into making clothes.



I'm sure that those who get their hands on such clothes will be more than satisfied, and when I see the clothes of creators all over the world, I always feel the "wonderfulness of clothes". I think you can feel it through the clothes of The authentics.




This genre of clothing goes far beyond the world of styling, coordinating, and that kind of appearance.





As a clothing store, I would like to deliver such things to our customers.



That's why I write this blog.



At the store, only those who can meet directly will be. no matter what.




Also, even with people I can talk to directly, I can't always talk like this. However, through this blog, I think that I can equally tell everyone who can see the details, regardless of whether I can meet them or not.




That's why I always write in long sentences.





Well, really, the power of properly made clothes is immeasurable.



Actually, I just placed an order for the 2022 AW season of tilt The authentics earlier today, so I remembered various things with Mr. Nakatsu, who we talked about various things together in the 5 years since our debut.




That's why I'm writing this.



Well, Mr. Nakatsu's shirt wasn't sewn by Mr. Mizude of Fashion Izumi from the beginning.



Mizude doesn't seem to accept anyone's work, and at our shop, only tilt The authentics and Yamauchi.



It's a brand of choice.




At our store, there is a customer who happened to meet Mr. Nakatsu from tilt The authentics at the store.



Mr. Nakatsu is a very good person.



Your personality is reflected in your clothes.







Let me get back to you.




back side.



Almost no stitches appear on the front, but they appear on the back.



The part that attaches to the collar.



There is a barely-there edge stitch at the joint with the bodice.







If you are familiar with clothes, you will understand that most of the parts are sewn with "bag stitching" because there are no stitches on the front.







Depending on the type of clothes and fabric, this sewing specification is not suitable for it, but it does not adversely affect the surface when worn, and the seams are not exposed, so the finish is very beautiful.




Especially with this shirt, the texture of the fabric is strong, so if the stitches appear on the front, it will look too casual, so it will not be in harmony with the shape.



Even in that sense, it is a specification that was considered.







The sleeves are also bag-stitched.







sleeve.



table.




The cuffs have one button, but as mentioned above, the cuffs are also non-stitched.



The sword rags that lead to the cuffs also look like they've been scraped off from the front.







Back of cufflinks and sword rags.



The sword boro is made of the same fabric as the outer material toward the inside, and is treated as a continuous piece of fabric, saying "I want you to come".



I think that this is also a rare specification now.










Beautiful back side with fabric and bag stitching.










A very well-textured fabric based on silk spun yarn.



In hot weather, if you wear it over a T-shirt or tank top, you can easily imagine how comfortable the wind will pass through it.







This is CHARCOAL.



For CHARCOAL, size 2 has already sold out.



Therefore, it is only 1 and 3, but it may be good for those who are astringent.







The button is CHARCOAL, black pearl shell.



ECRU is white pearl oyster.







The seams are straight when they are brand new because they have been beautifully ironed, but I think they will become a little softer after washing.



Due to the characteristics of the material, it is recommended to wash it by hand, but after passing water through it, the level of all the components of the shirt will rise dramatically.







You can see the texture of the fabric better with ERCU, but you can also feel the depth of this dark tone color.



I didn't take a picture of wearing it this time, but I think it's great for those who can wear clothes with proper room and proper size.




The touch on the skin, the outline from the shoulder to the sleeve, and the turn of the collar when the first button is removed are all wonderful, so please try it on and experience it for yourself.




Tomorrow, or rather, the date has changed, so today, the 19th (Saturday) is the first day of the three-day holiday, and there were many deliveries, so many brands, including Tilt The Authentics, are in stores. I think it will be sorted.





We are waiting for you to visit us.



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