The IRENISA event is currently being held, and today I would like to introduce you to something special.
This is a brand new to our store.
SARTO.
This is a brand that makes extremely good products.
My encounter with this brand came suddenly.
One day, I received a phone call from a certain designer that I respect.
Of course, we also carry that brand in our store.
“Mr. Fukuda, there is an amazing brand, do you know it?”
That's it.
The designer of the brand that called me was not just a mecha, but a designer who had a way of thinking about clothes that I truly admired.
I thought that since such a designer would go out of his way to make such a call, the brand must be more than just an ordinary brand, but when I asked about it, I learned that the designer who had called me had also been introduced to me by someone around him. Apparently, he saw the SARTO clothes that we will be introducing this time.
It was there that he felt so much sympathy and was so impressed that they hit it off.
That kind of thing doesn't happen very often, but apparently it did happen.
I also really like the clothes that designer makes, so if he said that much, I said something like, ``I'm interested.''
Then he said, "Let me introduce you to CASANOVA!"
At that time, I wasn't particularly looking for a new brand to handle, so I think I said something along the lines of, ``Well, I think it depends on the other person's (SARTO)'s circumstances and intentions.''
A few years passed after that, but the presence of "SARTO" still remained in my mind, and I received a call later.
Then, the person who contacted me from SARTO was also someone I knew.
This has something to do with it. I thought that.
However, whether or not they will be available in stores is another matter.
Moreover, I knew it was a Japanese brand.
When it comes to Japanese brands, I can't help but feel that there are a lot of brands that don't really fit into their "category", so I don't actively go out to look at new ones or carry new ones. of. Almost.
Lately, the only thing that has surpassed that for me is calmlence.
If I say that, I think it will make some sense.
So, I was first introduced to the brand by a brand that we handle, and a person I knew was also a brand contact for SARTO, so I decided to go to the exhibition for now. So, I made an appointment.
Actually, I didn't have high expectations, so I didn't have a lot of time...
On the day of the event, as usual, I looked at too many clothes at other brands' appointments, so I was late, got lost, and couldn't find the entrance to the venue, so it took me longer than I originally did before I could start looking. .
But, it's okay. Probably not handled. I entered the venue with such an extremely rude and naive idea.
After that, I felt very sorry for myself.
The venue wasn't that big, but as soon as I saw the SARTO clothes lined up there,
Hey, hey, hey, hey, this is...
Wow, that's amazing.
Are there still people like this in Japan? . .
So I decided to listen to the story and put on some clothes.
I changed the Shinkansen on my way home at the last minute, and just wanted to see the limit. and.
At that time, I was pretty tired, if I may say so myself, so I decided to go back to Okayama about an hour earlier than usual today. That's what I thought, but since I've come across something this good, I can't help it.
That's why I saw and felt SARTO's clothes until the very last minute, and my heart was captured.
This outfit is amazing.
I can understand why a designer I respect went out of his way to call me.
That's why we decided to carry it in our store and introduce this brand to everyone.
And the first one is Spring Court.
However, it's not normal at all.
It really has a "SARTO feel" to it.
I think it's very good for adult gentlemen.
Let me introduce you.
SARTO
LIGHT COTTON DOUBLE FACE COAT TYPE001
material_COTTON 100%
color _ L.BEIGE / BEIGE
size_S,M,L
this.
If you look at the photo above, you can kind of tell that it's a reversible coat.
Rather, it is a "reversible coat" with "river sewing".
Moreover, the ribs are sewn at a rib factory in Japan, rather than in China, which is the mainstream in terms of price.
Moreover, it is one wash. lol
Well, if you know what I mean, I think that alone will give you a general idea of what this coat is like.
To begin with, "river sewing" is a sewing method mainly used for women's winter coats.
Due to the characteristics of river stitching, it is now often used in men's winter outerwear due to its lightness.
River sewing is a sewing method that takes a lot of time, although you can find many ways to do it by searching on the Internet.
A thin piece of fabric called "double weave" or "double face." Outer fabric.
Normal fabric is made of one piece, and one side is the front and the other side is the back.
However, it is a fabric in which two pieces of fabric are joined together by threads (binding threads) that exist inside, so that both visible sides are facing out.
As mentioned above, this is called double weave or double face.
The binding threads are cut only at the edges of such fabrics, causing a slight separation between the two pieces of fabric.
Then, fold the separated edges of the fabric inward and sew the edges together by hand.
This is called "river sewing".
The characteristics of clothes completed with river sewing are:
・Less overlap of fabric
・No lining is required as the edges of the double-faced fabric are processed using only the fabric itself.
・Almost no interlining is used
The first characteristic is that it is extremely light.
Also, since there is less weight on the edges of the fabric, the movement of the fabric is very light.
I absolutely love the way this fabric sways lightly.
However, most of the "river sewing" that exists is made of thick wool-based fabrics.
This is because the fabric is torn in the middle between two pieces of fabric and the edges are sewn together by hand, so the thicker the fabric, the easier it is to sew.
Besides, outerwear in the middle of winter must have a high level of heat retention, right?
Therefore, the fabric tends to become heavy. This is also a method that can be used to reduce the weight.
However, this SARTO coat is "100% COTTON".
This double-weave cotton fabric, which is overwhelmingly thinner than woolen fabric, is beautifully made with river stitching.
Moreover, it is "reversible".
"Reversible river coat".
As a brand, SARTO is very distinctive, and that is the form of its clothes .
I think this way of drawing the form is very consistent in SARTO's clothes.
All clothes are "SARTO form".
Therefore, the method used to draw the outline and shape of the clothes neatly is "river sewing."
SARTO's collection has a long lineup of river-sewn clothes, especially in the fall and winter.
Well, I think this was the brand's second season, so it must have only been one fall/winter season.
Simply "a brand that uses a lot of river sewing".
That's not to say, I use river sewing a lot as a way to make sure that the outline of the clothes that SARTO draws is exactly as I wanted. Is that an image?
The "form of SARTO's clothes".
Because it's super cool.
I think you can already feel the nuance in the first photo I posted.
once again.
this.
Obviously, the way the arms are drawn is unusual, and the volume.
Transcendence.
Do you understand? ?
This feeling.
If you look at it from the front, your arms will come straight in front of you.
When viewed from the side, the arm swells out from the shoulder point of the raglan sleeve to the elbow, and curves sharply from the elbow.
There is a big difference in the appearance of the arm between the front and side.
When you look at it from the front, it looks smart, and when you look at it from the side, it feels incredibly powerful.
That is SARTO's pattern technique.
This idea can be felt in all of SARTO's clothes, and I feel that it is something that is very important to us as a brand.
Of course, I'm not just simply drawing the outline of the arms, but also the body.
Well, when people try it on, it looks really cool.
Well, I'll post a photo of me wearing it at the end of this blog, so you can get a sense of it.
So, this coat is extremely well made.
As mentioned earlier, the stitching that forms the coat is river stitching.
The collar and front edge have a stitch called AMF stitch that imitates hand stitching.
This also helps to suppress the edges of the fabric to a certain extent, so it stays in a beautiful state.
And, as I said earlier, I do one wash.
Normally, coats with river stitching tend to have a beautiful impression, so in order to bring out that quality, most coats are given a nice finish, but at SARTO, we wash the products after they are completed.
This creates bulges and shading in the river seams, as well as a noticeable movement in the AMF stitching.
I had never seen this kind of way of making clothes before.
That should be it.
SARTO has only recently debuted as a brand, but the people behind it are not young at all.
Who is making it?
I think there were 4 people at SARTO, including the designer, patterner, and production staff. These people make their own clothes without selling them to outsiders.
Also, the people at SARTO are currently part of a certain brand, so I can't name them. and.
yes.
These are clothes that are seriously made by people who have worked as Kagemusha.
That's why it's not like the flow of clothes that is common in today's world, where young designers pop up and ask someone else to make their clothes for them.
Clothes are made by people who have been involved in the production of clothes for many years, know about them, and have the ability to do so.
The moment I saw it, I could feel it.
So, although I don't have much recognition as a brand, I think I found something quite good.
Well, to be exact, I was introduced to it. lol
So, if you are able to watch it, please watch it with high expectations. SARTO clothes.
Soft collar unique to river stitching.
Especially since the material is 100% cotton of excellent quality.
The mood seems to fluctuate.
The switching of the raglan lines stands out.
River sewing + one wash Tamamono.
The back vent treatment is also perfect.
It's a reversible design. The vent specifications have been devised to meet both requirements.
It's well done.
The hem also has a unique lightness.
You'll know when you wear it.
And this coat.
The layout of the buttons looks unfamiliar.
This item is also reversible, and is designed so that either the front or the back side can be properly aligned to the front left.
Sometimes, with reversible clothes, even if the front is on the left, the back is on the right.
No matter how genderless the world is, I think it's a no-no for an adult male to wear the clothes on the right unless that's what he's aiming for.
That's why SARTO is designed so that it can be worn properly on the left front.
The buttons are placed on each side of the front edge, so they don't get in the way at all.
It's well thought out.
The pocket on this side is a box pocket.
Nut buttons are placed at both ends of the pocket opening, and these are also well made.
Even though there are buttons on both ends, your hands can easily fit into the pocket opening, and what's more, the structure prevents items from falling out.
Also, the appearance is completely different.
In addition, this.
Glycan.
Following the AMF stitch, as the name SARTO suggests, it is a tailor essence.
It's a hand-sewn kandome.
If it's a casual coat, you'd think that the parts that need reinforcement would be sewn using a hand sewing machine, but with SARTO, it's sewn by hand.
Adjustable straps on the cuffs.
And this one is also very well done.
If the adjustment tab is on one side, it will get in the way when you wear it on the other side, right? As for normal things.
The base of the adjustment tab also has a hand-sewn hook just like the previous pocket.
These two places.
But, there's something wrong with the location.
No matter how you look at it, it's not reinforcing the basics of the tab...
look.
this.
Hall appears.
yes. This notch is reinforced.
Using this...
In this way, the tab is designed to be used on the other side when worn on the other side.
Really, it's well thought out.
And then to this side.
The previous surface was a coat that gave a sense of authenticity, but this surface brings out the strength of the clothing even more.
The adjustment tab mentioned earlier also appears again.
In terms of color, this side is BEIGE.
The surface you mentioned earlier looks like LIGHT BEIGE.
Even if you wear it on this side, it is designed to be placed on the front left side.
And the seams really stand out.
The structure of the clothes is clearly visible, and there is no flat feeling.
This side also has AMF stitching running along the front edge, and the stitching throughout the pockets is also done using a sewing machine.
The pocket itself is attached by hand sewing.
Do you understand? ?
This pocket has a box pocket design on the previous side, so this one has an external pocket design.
However, it has both bead edges so that it can be used properly.
And the belt.
The belt comes in the LIGHT BEIGE color shown on the front, but the coat itself comes with belt loops on both sides.
Both have a loop on the left side to prevent the belt from falling off.
On this side, an umbrella yoke appears.
The presence of the umbrella yoke makes sense in shaping the coat's form.
By the way, when you flip up the umbrella yoke, a thread loop appears.
I think it's a detail that makes you feel that a lot of care has been taken down to the smallest detail.
This side is also nicely vented.
Well, I've introduced the details, but in short, think of it as a very well-made coat.
By looking at the details, you can decide whether you can wear it with confidence or not.
Clothes are made up of small details that make up a single piece.
So I think that kind of thing is very important.
Also, regardless of brand recognition, I think you can tell how serious they are about making clothes by seeing how much care goes into each piece.
Therefore, please wear SARTO with the utmost confidence. lol
However, the real thing starts here.
I don't usually post photos of myself wearing it here.
SARTO has a clear difference.
See below.
She is 167cm tall, weighs 52kg, and wears a size S.
surface.
LIGHT BEIGE.
The ``hugging comfort'' created in the body and the transcendent form of the arms.
Coexistence of strength and beauty.
Normally, I only post a few photos of myself wearing the clothes, but I really like the shape of the clothes in this one.
So, look further.
I think it outlines an amazing outfit. seriously.
And here.
Opposite side. BEIGE.
Sharp and powerful.
I think it's obvious that you can't see it in normal clothes.
The shape of the sleeves is impressive, starting from the top of the shoulders.
It's not excessive, but it's definitely different.
This has a huge positive effect on how you stand when you wear it.
By the way, the depth of the fabric is strong due to the one-wash process, so it looks quite heavy, but it's not like that at all in real life.
Surprisingly soft, lightweight, and gentle to wear.
It's not a cheap coat, but rather than being worn with care and care, I think it's a coat that looks better when handled roughly and sloppily.
Well, I think if you can see it in person, you'll be able to feel its charm.
If you are interested, please take a look.