Today, I'd like to introduce Isabella Stefanelli.
I haven't had a chance to introduce it sooner because of all the deliveries and other tasks, but today, it's the trousers.
"Diane."
First, here is the full lineup of Isabella Stefanelli items currently in stock at our store.
Isabella Stefanelli
Amedeo
material _ WOOL (Handwoven)
color _ Bark Brown
size _ 4(M)
*Sold out
Isabella Stefanelli
Oliver
material _ WOOL,COTTON,CASHMERE
color _ Mopale
size _ M
Isabella Stefanelli
Oliver
material _ Cotton,Linen
color _ Tea Dye
size _ L
These three, plus "Diane" which I'm introducing today.
A total of four items are currently in our lineup.
Isabella Stefanelli
Diane
material _ Mohair,Cotton
fabric _ T2
size _ S
*Sold out
This.
"Astonishing Trousers", Diane.
For all of Isabella Stefanelli's clothing, she names them after "real people" whose way of life and accomplishments throughout their lives resonated with her.
These trousers are named after Diane Arbus.
Diane Arbus.
An American female photographer who lived from 1923 to 1971.
These are trousers that Isabella designed, imagining, "What kind of clothes would she have worn during her lifetime?"
First, about the fabric.
The material is a combination of "mohair and cotton."
This is a combination of materials I've never seen before in any other fabric.
A fabric woven in Bishu (a wool-producing region in Aichi, Japan), designed by Isabella, and woven by a wool weaving mill.
The combination of "mohair and cotton" is, if I may say so, a combination I have personally never seen before, and I once tried to create something similar.
At that time, Mr. Sugihara (now nonnotte) from the AUBETT era, and Kaneta Orimono (a cotton weaving mill that mainly uses shuttle looms) found cotton mohair difficult, so the "rust-colored" ZZ strong twisted twill triple weave fabric I made then was a blend of cotton, wool, and mohair.
I thought a cotton and mohair blend was impossible, but Isabella did it! (laughs)
Since it's a fabric developed in Japan, it features disappearing and reappearing stripes, much like kasuri.
The length and intensity of each line.
And the incredibly unique crispness and dry touch characteristic of mohair.
However, when you see it in person, even though it's a gray hue, you're captivated by its vibrant color and undeniably high-quality fabric luster.
It's an ultra-super-cool fabric.
And what elevates it even further is this.
Can you tell?
The bottom part of the pants.
The fabric is joined with both machine stitching and hand stitching.
The reason for this will be mentioned next, but by joining this fabric and creating the specified length, breaks and changes in the stripes are created.
This is yet another superhuman detail.
These "Diane" trousers.
Normally, trousers with this much volume around the legs would always have pleats at the front.
However, pleats are primarily a men's detail.
As mentioned earlier, these trousers are designed with a female motif, so there are no pleats at the front.
Therefore, although the waist is a size S, it's a bit larger.
It's meant to be worn cinched with a belt.
Side view of the "Diane" trousers.
Doesn't it exude an elegant atmosphere, suggesting a beautiful silhouette?
From here, the "ultimate details" of Isabella Stefanelli appear.
Pants with "outside seams."
The outside seam, also known as the side seam, is a section where the cut has no impact on the silhouette of the pants, whether it's present or not.
Therefore, there are sometimes pants where the outside seam is eliminated to take advantage of the fabric's draping quality.
Also, even with jeans, the selvedge is placed on the outside because the "outer line" of the pants will come out beautifully even if the outseam cut line is straight.
This is due to "gravity"; gravity ensures that the "outer line" of the pants always drapes correctly.
That's why what's important for creating the silhouette of pants is the "inner line," the "inseam."
The inseam, due to "gravity," doesn't always create a beautiful outline, regardless of the pattern line.
Therefore, many pants in the world focus on devising "inseam pattern lines" and putting effort into them.
"Except for Isabella Stefanelli."
This.
Everyone, take a close look.
Isabella Stefanelli's Diane.
The "inner seam that always exists" in all pants in the world is absent.
This is a detail so extreme it's unprecedented, unheard of, and one might ask who else in human history could ever reach this level.
Moreover, this isn't just some outlandish design; it creates a breathtaking trouser silhouette and "divine drape" when worn and moved.
I believe this is incredibly valuable.
An unparalleled uniqueness.
And what's more, the absence of an "inseam seam" is standard practice for Isabella Stefanelli.
Seriously, this is incredible.
The first time I encountered this specification for Isabella Stefanelli's pants...
"The joy of being able to find such clothing as a buyer"
I remember feeling it deeply from the bottom of my heart.
And then, when you look at the crotch, a "magical detail" appears.
Triangles are arranged at the base of each of the left and right body panels.
This is the secret of these trousers.
The impressive form felt when worn.
This is a "lump of superiority" that only the owner can experience.
Please experience it for yourself.
Because clothes change your values.
And, as I mentioned earlier, the fabric extension at the bottom of the pants.
I believe this reason is largely related to the "absence of an inseam line" mentioned above.
The fabric of these Diane trousers is "used horizontally."
By using the horizontally woven striped fabric horizontally, it forms stripes, but as I've said many times, because there is no inseam seam, the left and right pant legs are structured from a single piece of fabric.
Moreover, it's not just that there's no inseam line; it draws an "amazing outline even without an inseam line."
Therefore, the way the fabric is cut is incredibly special.
Consequently, although the original fabric width may not be wide, when used horizontally, the "width" of the fabric is insufficient for Diane's design.
That's why the fabric is pieced together.
I'll also introduce other details.
Because the waist area is also amazing.
First, the buttons are burnt corozo buttons.
The thread used for attaching the buttons is said to be silk thread.
Isabella Stefanelli's attached tags list all the materials used in the garment, and for these Diane trousers, it states:
・Machine stitching is "cotton thread"
・Hand stitching is "silk thread"
This is what is stated.
In the waist area, although it may be too fine to see in the photo, the "waistband" is sewn to the body with a double machine stitch using navy cotton thread.
Also, generally, all trousers have a "interlining" used inside the waistband to prevent stretching.
However, Isabella Stefanelli's clothing is made without "interlining" and "lining."
Therefore, multiple layers of plain-weave cotton fabric are inserted vertically into the waist to prevent stretching and improve the waist fitting when worn.
That white fabric peeks out from the waistband.
The harmony with the white kasuri stripes also works beautifully, doesn't it?
By the way, the belt loops are attached with navy cotton thread using machine stitching.
The fly construction is double-stitched with navy cotton thread, but it's stopped midway, and the final curve is left unstitched. This specification allows for the intended "crotch outline."
The bar tack at the bottom of the fly and the small crotch stitching are done by hand with silk thread.
The front opening features burnt corozo buttons.
All buttonholes are hand-stitched, and they are diagonal buttonholes that also provide ease of fastening and unfastening.
The "fly" and "extension" parts are also areas that bear stress with use.
Instead of the outer fabric, a white linen twill fabric is used for reinforcement and harmony with the kasuri stripes.
A fly that combines both durability and style.
The white linen twill fabric of the fly facing is hand-stitched at the edges to keep it from being overly visible from the outside, a tailoring technique.
The pockets and side seams are both sewn with silk hand stitching.
Kasuri stripes peek out from inside the pockets.
Back.
The placement of these kasuri stripes was a surprise until delivery, and it results in an incredibly stylish rear view.
The fabric handling shows Isabella's exceptional sense.
A rounded patch pocket is sewn only on the right side.
The pocket is attached not by machine but by hand with silk thread.
The silk thread used for hand stitching is made by twisting multiple strands of silk thread at all points, which emphasizes its strength and also makes the stitching stand out beautifully.
And now, the amazing inside appears.
Since it's Isabella Stefanelli's clothing, it's naturally impressive from the outside.
However, even when turned inside out, you can feel the aura of the clothing.
You feel something extremely refined.
As shown in the photo, it's a single-layer construction with no lining.
Considering the fabric weight and texture, these are year-round pants.
As mentioned earlier, inside the waistband, plain-weave cotton fabric (double-layered, perhaps?) is placed instead of interlining.
Therefore, the waistband is plump due to the thickness of the fabric.
Linen twill fabric is added as reinforcement behind the belt loop attachment points.
Similarly, the fly facing also uses linen twill fabric.
The piping sections are made of plain-weave cotton fabric, not piping tape.
The pocket bag fabric is a very soft-touch cotton twill fabric.
In this way, Isabella Stefanelli's clothing combines fabrics thoughtfully chosen for each specific area, even on the inside.
Since the inside is basically constructed with separate white fabrics, and the silk hand-stitching thread is black, the structure of the pants' interior is clearly visible, providing good contrast and making it enjoyable to look at.
It's a tremendous construction, though. (laughs)
The mood of the clothing gives a sense of "visual delicacy," but the construction of the garment itself possesses a rare robustness.
Isabella Stefanelli's clothing is created by making miniature versions and trying out all conceivable options before shaping them in the best possible way, even for the same clothing style but with different fabrics.
It's natural for her to change specifications and sewing threads for each garment.
That's why producing a single garment takes an "unusual" amount of time, and consequently, the absolute number that can be produced is extremely limited.
However, in return, the density of a single garment is completed to an immeasurable height.
I think such clothes are very precious.
As written above, the waistband and body are sewn together with a double machine stitch using navy cotton thread.
All thick sewing threads are hand-sewn threads.
The raw edges of the fabric on the outside seam are also finished with hand-sewn overlocking.
Can you see it?
For the outside seam, the joining stitch that connects the fabrics is machine-stitched with navy cotton thread at a fine pitch.
The seam allowance and raw edges of the sewn fabrics are then hand-sewn with overlock stitching and pressed to one side.
If you look at the back, you can clearly see where it has been pieced together.
However, the level of it is also incredible and intense.
Because it's perfectly sewn.
Just seeing this patchwork makes my heart tremble.
Here too, the joining stitch to connect each part is machine-sewn.
The raw edges of the fabric have threads pulled out, and each seam allowance is evenly split.
Furthermore, it is then reinforced with hand stitching across the seam.
This is an incredibly cool specification.
If you can see the real thing, please look closely at this part.
It's incredible.
The hem has a facing with the fabric direction changed.
With a narrow facing, the hem gains a slight weight, but since it differs from typical trouser specifications, it feels very light when worn.
The movement of the hem when worn is highly flexible, which I think is very stylish.
Also, until recently, there was another pair of Diane trousers, and they had a different fabric for the hem facing than the main fabric.
Even with the same shape of pants, the specifications differing depending on the main fabric used is characteristic of Isabella Stefanelli.
The back pocket is sewn with silk hand-sewn thread.
In this section, since no machine stitching is visible on the back, it can be seen that it is a one-shot hand-sewn construction.
Wearing them.
I am 167cm tall and weigh 52kg.
As I mentioned before, the waist is a little on the larger side, but that's how these pants are.
I wear them cinched with a belt.
When you wear these trousers, you can't tell where my actual legs begin, can you?
If someone with the right size wears them, the outline designed by Isabella Stefanelli will be 100% visible.
The outline is sharply defined when standing still.
But you know...
This is what happens when you move.
Can you tell?
The swaying drape of the fabric on the "inner thigh" of the right leg.
Only Isabella Stefanelli creates trousers where the fabric drapes even on the inner thigh.
Even with Japanese and international brands, you can get a clean line on the inseam of the inner thigh.
But that's not all; with Isabella Stefanelli, these are trousers where the fabric drapes on the inner thigh when you move.
Because these are trousers without an inseam, the "sway of the inner thigh fabric" occurs with movement.
This is unique to Isabella.
I think it's extremely difficult for other brands to replicate.
It might seem like a subtle detail that you wouldn't notice unless you look closely, but when worn, you definitely feel the beauty in it.
It's totally different.
Trousers that coexist with extremely sharp lines and voluminous proportions.
The area around the hips fits, and from there, the form flows with astonishing elegance.
No matter where you look, it's perfect beauty.
I am tremendously confident about this. Really.
Well, I didn't make it though.
The real thing is so beautiful it's breathtaking. Seriously.
Everyone wears pants, but these are of exceptional quality.
Well, given the price, they shouldn't be at the same level as pants found in regular select shops.
The only thing that can surpass Isabella Stefanelli is Isabella Stefanelli itself.
A superhumanly sharp outline without an inner thigh seam.
When in motion, a natural sway that follows the movement.
Isabella Stefanelli's clothing is also made very strong and durable, as seen in the construction of various parts, both inside and out.
For those who get their hands on these trousers, please fully experience the more than 45 years of clothing making that Isabella Stefanelli has dedicated her life to.
Because trousers are something everyone wears, I believe you will intensely feel this splendor.