I announced the other day, LIMITED STORE with Graphpaper and BODHI.
Today, I would like to introduce a special product made with Graphpaper.
As I touched on it briefly in my previous blog, I've been making bespoke pieces for Graphpaper last year and the year before.
And this time, the third time, it was absolutely necessary to surpass what we had done so far, and even in the sense of creating something special outside the collection, we wanted something with great value.
I've been thinking about it.
It's been a few years since we started handling Graphpaper, but I think the brand's collection line-up is getting more polished every season.
However, there are fabrics that continue to exist even within the brand.
It was the first thing I picked up when I went to see the full Graphpaper collection at the exhibition for the first time, and I was thrilled.
The surprise and excitement I felt at that time still remain in my heart, and I felt the power of the brand to be able to create this fabric.
The fabric is, of course, the so-called original fabric that only Graphpaper can make.
At that time, it is also a fabric that is still being developed.
In the first place, I think that the word "original fabric" is used so easily as a sales slogan in the fashion market, but it doesn't mean that the original fabric is particularly good, or that the fabrics on the market are bad. I don't.
However, I think that it is very meaningful in the sense that it brings out the individuality of quality and texture that cannot be produced elsewhere, and further pursues its uniqueness and quality.
What is the original fabric?
So, this time Graphpaper and our CASANOVA&Co. bespoke product.
While it is a fabric that symbolizes Graphpaper, it is a super masterpiece original fabric.
Rather than simply changing the fabric or coloring of an existing item, the most important thing was to convey to everyone the wonders of the Graphpaper brand.
That's why I really wanted to use this brand's original fabric.
Graphpaper Selvage Wool
The name has changed from this season, but it used to be the fabric used for cook pants, and from this season it is used for chef pants.
Maybe you have one or know many of them.
Although it is 100% wool, it is completely different from wool fabrics that exist in the world.
The texture and appearance are very Graphpaper-like, and I think it's a very high-quality fabric.
The raw material is merino wool from Australia, one of the world's largest wool producers.
Merino is the dominant type of wool fiber in the world.
However, even among merino wool, it is classified by stage, and Graphpaper uses the highest quality among these.
We need durability for daily use, so we use very fine wool fibers, although they are not as fine as cashmere.
If you compare it, it's about a fiber level of about 1/4 of the fineness of human hair.
extraordinarily thin.
When such raw materials are used, the original fibers are thin, so they are less irritating to the skin, and very smooth and supple yarns can be produced.
And then use that fiber to make yarn.
The fabric goes through many stages before it is finished.
Raw material → Thread → Fabric
It's super easy to say, but there are many steps to get there.
At that step, there are many hurdles to reach the fabric that Graphpaper is aiming for, and the craftsmen are always on hand to complete it with their skills.
As I mentioned earlier, we use extremely fine wool as a raw material to make thread.
In other words, the thread is not a thin thread that is not sharp, but it is aimed at the appearance when the fabric is completed.
However, this fabric is simply dangerous. It's not a slogan before you wear it, but it's made with the assumption that you'll wear it.
It's a very neat fabric that's made with the wearer's real life in mind.
And when we use the thread to weave the fabric, we weave it with an old loom that creates a good texture and depth similar to hand-woven.
You may hear it from time to time, but it's a Schonherr loom.
Today, when it comes to wool, high quality, tastefulness, and maximizing the potential of the material, it's about Schonherr looms.
The good quality of the material makes the most of it, and if you want to create a fabric that is smooth and not frivolous, but has depth, you might want to weave it with this old-fashioned loom.
This creates a twill weave with a slanted surface.
once.
However, if it is only this, it will inevitably become a fabric with a slightly rustic impression.
If it's just this, the fabric feels like vintage wool wear.
Graphpaper's aim is not to recreate the old.
This is very important.
off-scale processing.
I think some people shy away from so-called wool because it irritates them, but that's because the raw wool is thick and the scales that cover the raw hair.
Similar to the cuticle in human hair.
Normally, the cuticle-like scaly scales are trimmed to reduce the tingling sensation, but that is generally the kind of processing used for poor quality wool.
Pour the off-scale processing into Merino highest quality.
This will give it a completely different look.
This Graphpaper fabric.
The warm feeling peculiar to wool and the worn-out fluff are removed, and the color can reach a state of deepness that seems to be sucked in, such as jet black.
The fabric can only be made through this process.
That's not all.
It's very time consuming.
After off-scaling and dyeing it as black as it can get to the point where it can't get any more depth, it's still fucking.
I can't say specifically, but I'm going through a lot of trouble again after dyeing.
"Using thin raw wool, we weave on a loom that is close to hand weaving."
If this is the only thing, it will simply be a textured fabric that has passed the time and is coveted by people who like old things.
Of course, that's fine, but Graphpaper isn't there.
Graphpaper is a selvedge wool fabric that only Graphpaper can create that no one else does.
The texture of the hand-woven fabric is the base, and the transparent texture of the fabric is added to it.
While it has the luster that only high-quality materials can provide, it has a unique sense of transparency and a touch that makes it hard to believe that it is wool at first glance.
I heard it for the first time too.
its processing.
I'm impregnated. Impregnation.
A Graphpaper original that is completed through many processes that no one can think of.
For those who like it, I will talk about it at the store.
As a person who introduces clothes, I sincerely hope that everyone, whether they already know this fabric or not, will see it again.
The yarn is tightly twisted and uses two-ply yarn.
It's a fabric that looks and feels comfortable against the skin, but it's also durable enough to be worn for many years.
And the intersecting grain of the well-proportioned fabric and the beautiful fabric without fuzz.
When this becomes clothes, it will be a high-quality appearance for anyone to see.
However, I wanted people to see the finer details of this fabric, so I looked through the microscope in high spirits, but the quality of the raw wool and the several stages of special processing caused the light from the microscope to reflect abnormally. It's chau. this fabric.
So, to put it bluntly, it's hard to understand, but please look forward to the goodness when it becomes clothes.
I'll let you know what I come up with at a later date.