Hello.
This is Noguchi from CASANOVA&CO.
Today, I'll be talking more about the WR/ESSE event.
As I did yesterday, I'd like to introduce some of the pieces in the lineup.
Today, as the title suggests, I'm focusing on jersey fabric.
These three WR/ESSE jerseys all share the same knit structure, yet each has a completely different character.
Let me introduce each one.
fabric _
< PEBBLE >
A truly astonishing jersey that first appeared in the 26SS season.
At the time, we introduced it in the form of The Step pants.
PEBBLE The Step was the pair of pants I wore most over the past six months, but PEBBLE really is in a category of its own.
It's jersey taken beyond jersey—or perhaps jersey that doesn't fit within the category of jersey fabric at all.
Mr. Kakoi went through all kinds of trial and error to arrive at PEBBLE.
Actually, it might be more accurate to say that PEBBLE emerged from the culmination of the daily experimentation that is part of Mr. Kakoi's lifelong work.
Everything from the cotton itself to how the yarn is spun and its count, the finishing, the stitch density, and the machine settings.
Through research into all of these factors, he has built up a kind of formula for how they work together, then carefully identifies and combines the possibilities that emerge.
PEBBLE isn't an expression deliberately conceived from the outset. It's more like a destination only someone who has pursued their craft to this degree can reach. That's what makes it such a revolutionary jersey.
PEBBLE is made from Tangüis cotton.
After spinning this Tangüis cotton to their own specifications, they apply MVS processing to reduce fuzz and improve its resistance to abrasion.
The result is a strong, beautiful yarn, with every aspect—from the raw material and spinning to the yarn count and finishing—meticulously balanced.
It's made with doubled yarns held together and knitted at an extremely high stitch density.
However, the stitch density is set right at the limit, so the fabric won't develop an uneven surface and lose the refined look PEBBLE is meant to have.
This is a triumph of design and a feat of craftsmanship. Thanks to this, PEBBLE has a striking contrast between how it looks and how it feels to wear—and it's a good contrast, of course.
Those who saw PEBBLE The Step in 26SS will know what I mean: these are jersey pants, yet they don't look like jersey at all. They look like slacks.
At the same time, they have the stretch you'd expect from jersey, moving with your body, along with powerful recovery—and they don't wrinkle, even after sitting for hours.
They're also exceptionally durable in the wash. Even after 100 wears and washes, they barely change.
PEBBLE has achieved a position that neither woven fabric nor jersey can reach on its own.
WR/ESSE
[PEBBLE] The Step
color _ BLACK
These are PEBBLE The Step.
A masterpiece that clearly expresses the WR/ESSE style.
The waist has an elastic band and belt loops.
There's also a drawstring on the inside.
You can tell they were designed with a firm determination to make sure the waist stays put.
I wear them with a belt about 80% of the time, but when I'm just popping out on a day off, I simply tighten the drawstring.
They're just so practical.
As I mentioned in my previous post about NARWHAL The Step, the way the side seams are pressed here is excellent. It really makes sense.
This WR/ESSE post has been all about fabrics, but the design, patternmaking, and construction details are wonderful too.
They really embody the idea that the fabric makes the shape, and the shape makes the fabric.
WR/ESSE
[PEBBLE] The Field
color _ BLACK
This time, a jacket has arrived that can be worn as a set with PEBBLE The Step.
The Field. It's a coverall.
Workwear-inspired details.
Where it needs a sharp edge, it has one.
A hint of its jersey origins remains.
An exceptionally well-balanced coverall.
Writing this brought back a detail I remembered: at Mr. Kakoi's sewing studio, they use different machines for straight seams and curved seams.
I think he said the German-made machine produces cleaner straight seams...
I know absolutely nothing about sewing machines, so I've forgotten. Haha.
Here's what they look like worn as a set.
It's so sleek you wouldn't guess it's jersey from head to toe. It doesn't look casual at all.
With the addition of this jacket, WR/ESSE now makes a style possible that wasn't part of the lineup before.
PEBBLE really is breaking new ground.
The revolution is still underway.
fabric _
< CAMELLIA >
CAMELLIA is all about bringing out the very best in Suvin cotton.
Mr. Kakoi and I once had this conversation about CAMELLIA.
"It's unusual to see Suvin in one of your fabrics, isn't it, Mr. Kakoi?"
Mr. Kakoi said yes. But behind that answer, I could sense the pride of a true jersey and fleece professional.
To Mr. Kakoi, the appeal of Suvin jersey is the distinctive character Suvin develops after it's been washed again and again, becoming worn-in, soft, airy, and fluid.
In other words, the answer isn't in the fabric when it's new. Suvin's true appeal blossoms only after you wear it and wash it over and over.
But Suvin is usually defined by its "high luster," and the Suvin yarn generally available on the market is often treated to enhance that sheen.
That processing, however, makes the yarn thinner and weaker.
Prioritizing a glossy look when new can mean sacrificing the toughness needed to withstand repeated washing.
CAMELLIA is Mr. Kakoi's serious answer to that dilemma.
I might get in trouble if I go into too much detail about the technical design, but I'll share a little. Haha.
CAMELLIA is a jersey made from three strands of Suvin yarn twisted together.
Each of the three strands has a different twist: hard-twisted, loosely twisted, and untwisted.
The twist levels are precisely chosen to bring together the fabric's durability and substance with the qualities normally at odds with them: Suvin's characteristic luster and softness.
They apparently tested everything from single yarns to five-ply twists. They ultimately chose three-ply because a yarn with a cross-section closer to a perfect circle creates a flatter fabric, which helps bring out Suvin's luster.
On top of the three-ply construction, the stitch density is also very high, taking its durability to another level.
Without sacrificing Suvin's distinctive luster, the fabric has been made tough enough to let you experience "what lies beyond Suvin." To me, this is a very WR/ESSE way of approaching Suvin jersey.
WR/ESSE
[CAMELLIA] The Line
color _ WHITE,CHARCOAL,BLACK
CAMELLIA comes in The Line.
This style is released in both jersey and fleece, so CAMELLIA The Line is something like a sweatshirt-inspired long-sleeve tee.
As you'd expect, CAMELLIA's greatest appeal is the feel of the Suvin cotton.
Of course, this is brand new, so it’s designed to truly come into its own with wear. But I think there’s a difference in the balance of the styling, especially when compared with SEASCAPE.
For the lustrous textures of brands like IRENISA, which we carry, CAMELLIA is the perfect match.
I’ll share photos later, but conversely, I think the more casual textures of HERILL and SARTO bring out more character in SEASCAPE.
I’d been struggling to find a cut-and-sew top to wear under my IRENISA tailored pieces, but now I have the answer: CAMELLIA.
Of course, I think a well-worn, washed-to-death CAMELLIA paired casually with denim would look great too.
I think you’ll enjoy changing up how you style it as it wears in, too.
fabric _
< SEASCAPE >
At the debut collection, this loopwheel jersey was part of the WHALE lineup.
It was later given its own name: SEASCAPE.
Simply put, SEASCAPE is loopwheel jersey knitted at an exceptionally high density from Ultimate Pima cotton.
Like CAMELLIA, which I mentioned earlier, it is knitted with an exceptionally tight stitch. But while CAMELLIA is a jersey with a crisp, refined look, SEASCAPE retains the casual feel of loopwheel fabric while offering a wearing experience entirely unlike the tubular knits of classic American casualwear.
It’s thin yet substantial, with strong recovery—dry to the touch, yet with a supple, almost slick feel. That’s how I’d describe it.
There’s far more craftsmanship here than you’d guess from its first impression: Ultimate Pima cotton is left to rest after arriving from the US packed in containers, allowing it to fluff up, and the yarn is spun specifically for SEASCAPE as a matter of course. Once you touch it, you can feel the clear difference these details make.
I absolutely love SEASCAPE and wear it often. Of course, it’s comfortable and looks great, but what I can’t get enough of is how it feels when I put it on: light, yet springy and substantial.
In the world of 100% cotton T-shirts, where the room for differentiation is extremely limited, SEASCAPE is the first one where I’ve felt such a striking difference.
WR/ESSE
[SEASCAPE] The Line
color _ SALMON,DUSK,BLACK
The Line from SEASCAPE, too.
We also have The Plain (short-sleeved T-shirts) from CAMELLIA and SEASCAPE available in-store.
Like WHALE, SEASCAPE is garment-dyed, but it doesn’t noticeably fade even after repeated wear and washing.
My short-sleeved SEASCAPE tee, which I’ve worn for about a year and a half, has only the faintest fading along the seams.
Other than that, I think it’s lost some of its oils and feels a little drier now.
It has an open-end-spun feel, but with a depth of softness you don’t get from open-end yarn. I really love how it’s aging.
It works beautifully with casual outfits.
And when I’m dressed head to toe in black, I prefer SEASCAPE because it keeps the look casual.
This really comes down to personal preference, so please try them both on in-store and compare.
That’s a general overview of this release’s lineup.
There are plenty of other things I haven’t had a chance to introduce, so be sure to check them out in-store.
There is just one more series I haven’t introduced yet.
STRATA. A base-layer series in wool jersey.
The products aren’t finished yet, so I’m not quite sure what to do, but we’ll have samples available to see in-store during the event.
I’ve only seen the samples myself and haven’t actually worn them yet, but I think STRATA could change the way you live.
I’ll give you a brief introduction this Friday.
Stay tuned.