Hello.
This is Noguchi from CASANOVA&CO.
Today, following up on the other day, I’d like to introduce each of the four series from “WONDER ROOM,” which will be unveiled at our store at an event starting on January 18th.
The four series are:
・WHALE
・FRIEND
・SHADOW
・WAFFLE
I will introduce them sequentially, along with the lineup of items that have arrived.
【WHALE】
"Fabric that can only be expressed with machines and techniques inherited through generations at a factory with over 100 years of history.
Machine No. 45, introduced about 80 years ago, is completely different from the mass production machines used by other factories.
The balance of thread and gauge density that can only be achieved with this machine creates an overwhelming density and softness that cannot be replicated by other factories.
This is also reflected in the refined beauty of the back side, and this clumsy fabric, which can only be knitted 30cm per hour, should be experienced through the warmth it conveys to the skin."
*Quoted from the official brand statement
WONDER ROOM
”WHALE” Atozuke Hoodie
color _ black
size _ S,M,L
WONDER ROOM
”WHALE” Sweat Slacks
color _ black
size _ S,M,L
During the event, you will also be able to see the Atozuke Hoodie and Sweat Slacks in their alternative color, bleached white, as well as the crewneck sweatshirt in both colors.
I don't have photos yet because they haven't arrived...
All of the above items use sweatshirt fabric, but WHALE actually has another super-dense cut-and-sew fabric made from ultra-pima cotton, which hasn't arrived yet. The sweatshirt fabric is more central to the WHALE line, so I'll explain more about that to those who are interested when they visit the store.
Let's return to the Atozuke Hoodie and Sweat Slacks.
It's what you might call a loopwheeled sweatshirt fabric, but it's completely different from typical loopwheeled fabric.
But in reality, I believe this is what true "loopwheeling" really is.
I think many people generally have the vague impression that the process of loopwheeling itself has value.
And indeed, as sales associates at select shops, we tend to say "this is loopwheeled" when explaining sweatshirts.
Isn't it the case that the value of "loopwheeling," which should originally have been a truly valuable process, has become hollowed out as it has been discussed in the world?
In contrast, WONDER ROOM has not used other knitting machines or replaced the process with another,
but rather pursued the true value of "loopwheeling" through "loopwheeling."
I believe that this is the WHALE series.
It's a really direct challenge, isn't it?
And the results it produces are truly amazing.
It made me realize for the first time, "This is what loopwheeling truly is."
While it's not something anyone else can imitate due to the extremely specialized machinery and techniques involved, I believe this is what lies at the pinnacle of exploring the value of "loopwheeling."
As stated in the official document, they use a machine called No. 45, which is said to be completely different from existing loop-wheeling machines.
In a blog post to be published around Wednesday or Thursday, I spoke with Mr. Kakoi, who is in charge of fabric development, about the No. 45 machine. He said it's a clumsy machine, and it's impossible to operate it without "that person" who has the specialized skills.
But because of this, it's possible to achieve an airy touch while being extremely high density.
Normally, if you tighten the stitches, it would become stiff and rigid.
The front side of the fabric.
You can clearly see that the threads are tightly packed, and they are incredibly firm and lustrous.
And the back of the fabric.
The pile is so neatly aligned that you could even wear it inside out.
I've never seen such beautiful pile.
The highest level of loopwheeling, combining the maximum density achieved by machine No. 45 with the meticulous and careful craftsmanship of the artisans.
Just by looking at the front and back, I think you can feel the power of the fabric. But it gets even better after repeated wear and washing, and it starts to exude a gentle quality.
I've been wearing the Atozuke Hoodie almost every day for the past month and a half, and it's become increasingly airy, feeling lighter than when it was new.
The sewing is also very solid and, in a good way, sturdy, so I have zero anxiety about wearing it roughly.
To leverage this powerful fabric, the design remains within a simple range, but with a pattern that meticulously calculates the proportions of each part, it possesses a quiet strength that allows it to be worn effortlessly in daily life.
Anyway, it's the best sweatshirt fabric for everyday wear, and it has enough fabric power to stand up to strong clothing.
I believe that when WONDER ROOM is talked about in 5 or 10 years, the debut WHALE series will be legendary, as it's a series with low reproducibility that challenged the existing loopwheeling process.
By the way, why is the series named WHALE, meaning "whale"?
Japan has a culture of eating whales, but it was once very rare to catch a whale.
Being able to eat a whale was a great blessing, and when a whale was landed, it was said that the entire village would share in the catch.
In other words, "sharing happiness."
The WHALE fabric is so precious that no one else can make it, and it makes the wearer feel gentle, which is why it's something to "share."
That's how it was named.
Please receive that share and be amazed by WHALE.
【FRIEND】
" The fabric is produced at a 70-year-old factory that develops and manufactures fabrics that achieve comfort satisfying world-renowned fashion houses.
Based on machines imported from overseas, they independently developed a machine that combines the best aspects of loopwheeling and jacquard knitting, allowing for high-density knitting.
This machine uniquely expresses a technique derived from jacquard knitting, which is typically not possible with pile fabrics, approaching comfort. It is truly one-of-a-kind.
By meticulously varying the yarn quality and twist count for the face, middle, and back layers, they successfully achieved supreme comfort, elegance, and washing durability. The thickness and lightness, designed for 365-day, 72-hour wear, make it a suitable fabric to support everyday life."
*Quoted from the official brand statement
WONDER ROOM
”FRIEND” Crewneck Sweat Shirt
color _ black
size _ S,M,L
WONDER ROOM
”FRIEND” Crewneck Sweat Shirt
color _ black
size _ S,M,L
Compared to WHALE, FRIEND is a sweatshirt fabric that is less thick and easier to wear year-round.
However, the production background and process are completely different.
Furthermore, that process, or rather, the concept, is incredible.
A continuous stream of surprises and discoveries.
This is the front of FRIEND.
If you just look at this, it might be difficult to see the difference from WHALE, but can you tell that it's fluffier in density and yarn quality than WHALE?
First of all, in WONDER ROOM, not only each series, but also within a single fabric, the top, middle, and bottom threads are all different.
That's the conclusion they reached after endlessly repeating experiments and pursuing comfort.
So, even with this FRIEND, it's natural that each thread is adjusted to the appropriate count and twist rate.
However, this is where FRIEND gets serious.
This FRIEND is made on a "jacquard knitting machine."
???
You all thought that, didn't you?
Generally, jacquard knitting is used to create patterns.
In fact, the factory that makes FRIEND is said to be responsible for knitting the signature patterns of certain luxury brands using the same jacquard knitting machine.
Yet, this FRIEND fabric is plain, no matter how you look at it.
What does that mean?
As mentioned earlier, jacquard knitting machines can create patterns by controlling the threads.
Then, to create a pattern on the front, corresponding "thread floats" are created on the back.
This is where WONDER ROOM focused its attention.
With FRIEND, the front is designed to be plain, with the reverse engineering of the thread floats on the back calculated to provide "the most comfortable feel when touching the skin."
A completely inverse approach to the conventional idea of jacquard knitting.
I think it's a truly unique way of thinking.
This is the back of that FRIEND.
It's completely different from the WHALE we just saw.
The twisted yarn is slightly softer and fluffier, and the threads are flying like pile.
They relentlessly pursued and experimented with how these threads would float.
They also thoroughly tested the appropriate yarn quality and twist count.
And so, this FRIEND was created, and it truly feels amazing when it touches your skin.
It's also highly stretchable, and the surface of the fabric has a moister sheen than WHALE, giving it a considerably luxurious feel.
Unlike WHALE, which is garment-dyed, FRIEND is fabric-dyed, so I don't think it will fade easily.
Anyway, I think it's the best series for wearing all year round.
So, we mainly ordered two types: a crewneck for year-round use and summer half pants, but we will also have other lineups available at the event.
It seems the WONDER ROOM team is creating new shapes that weren't at the exhibition...
I'm looking forward to it too.
【SHADOW】
" The fabric is produced at a 70-year-old factory that develops and manufactures fabrics that achieve comfort satisfying world-renowned fashion houses.
They developed and used a machine that can create unevenness in yarn. They created an original yarn that is different from regular slub yarn, using the highest quality yarn that does not exist in conventional slub yarns. Then, by using that yarn and developing and using a knitting machine that can knit it at the extreme limit of density while retaining softness, they succeeded in achieving a uniform, beautiful pattern, supreme comfort, and washing durability.
This fabric, reminiscent of abstract art, can be called a new product that creates new sensibilities in everyday life."
*Quoted from the official brand statement
WONDER ROOM
”SHADOW” L/S Crewneck Tee
color _ olive
size _ S,M,L
WONDER ROOM
”SHADOW” L/S Crewneck Tee
color _ v.Gray
size _ S,M,L
WONDER ROOM
”SHADOW” S/S Crewneck Tee
color _ olive
size _ S,M,L
WONDER ROOM
”SHADOW” L/S Crewneck Tee
color _ v.Gray
size _ S,M,L
Unlike WHALE and FRIEND, SHADOW is a series that offers long-sleeved and short-sleeved T-shirts.
This SHADOW also embodies WONDER ROOM's relentless pursuit of craftsmanship.
According to Mr. Kakoi, who is in charge of fabric development, slub was originally a technique born to express texture in inexpensive materials where yarn quality was unstable.
In other words, he says that there are no existing slub yarns made from high-quality raw cotton.
So WONDER ROOM started by creating the highest quality slub yarn for this SHADOW.
Furthermore, they reportedly developed an entire machine for creating variations in yarn thickness during spinning.
I can't really talk about how this machine works, but...
However, it is certain that they created a slub yarn of unparalleled quality that does not exist elsewhere, using a completely original method.
And that yarn, knitted to an extremely high density, is this SHADOW.
It's characterized by its uneven texture, with horizontal stripes running through it.
Its high density gives it a crispness, and these slub-like horizontal lines also contribute to that crispness, allowing the garment to beautifully stand away from the body when worn.
Even in the hanging photos just now, you can probably see the fabric's tendency to hold its shape horizontally.
It's not some stiff, super-heavy jersey, you know.
The crispness of SHADOW, given its suppleness and weight, is remarkable.
The shape appears simple, but the sleeve attachment, for example, has an S-curve, making it quite a unique pattern.
The four series of WONDER ROOM share a common design that doesn't go overboard, aiming to leverage the nuance and characteristics of the fabric.
I want even those who usually wear shirts in spring and summer to try wearing this alone.
I believe the fabric will satisfy you, and it's designed to make the most of it.
【WAFFLE】
" The fabric is produced at a 70-year-old factory that develops and manufactures fabrics that achieve comfort satisfying world-renowned fashion houses.
The ideal waffle fabric features a distinct uneven texture on the surface, no shrinkage, excellent skin conformity, good kickback, and high washing durability, all expressed in 100% cotton.
The machine is based on a completely different type imported from overseas, neither loopwheeler nor sinker. The needles are adapted for loopwheeling, the fabric width is narrowed to the extreme to increase density, and thick, original plied yarns are used with a high-gauge setting, then slowly knitted.
Over 30 samples were made and over 300 washing tests were conducted until the balance of yarn type, thickness, and stitch density achieved the ideal waffle.
It has become a cutting-edge product that, in its analog expression, reawakens important senses lost in the pursuit of convenience."
*Quoted from the official brand statement
I apologize deeply, but the WAFFLE series did not arrive in time, so I couldn't prepare photos...
I plan to create an opportunity for you to see it elsewhere at a later date, so please check it then.
For WAFFLE, as the series name suggests, we're making cut-and-sew garments from waffle fabric.
However, this is also super WONDER ROOM quality.
Mr. Kakoi, who is in charge of fabric development, apparently loves waffles personally.
He loves them so much that he's tried making waffles with almost every type of cotton that exists in the world. (Laughs)
Furthermore, he thoroughly tested whether it should be single yarn, double yarn, or plied yarn, and so on.
It's too insane...
The WAFFLE from WONDER ROOM was born from the results of countless trials and errors.
However, it didn't stop there; next came the washing tests.
Precisely because they pursued yarn quality to balance both durability and comfort, they also had to experiment with how much washing it could withstand as a result.
As a result, after over 300 washes, the ribs reportedly disintegrated first. (Laughs)
At that point, they realized, "This won't do!" and commissioned a different company specifically for the ribs.
I heard that it's a highly specialized company that only makes "ribs for a certain brand's MA-1"...
Thus, the WAFFLE was completed, equipped with the best ribs that wouldn't lose to the waffle body.
It's incredibly durable, comfortable, and has excellent kickback, remaining steadfast no matter how many times it's worn or washed.
Yet, it gently wraps around your body in the closest way possible to your skin.
This series is filled with the WONDER ROOM team's obsessive, thorough pursuit and kindness.
Although it got a bit long, those are the four series that make up WONDER ROOM.
All four series feature deeply refined fabric development and designs that excel in subtle balance to leverage those fabrics.
And the kindness that can only be felt from such clothing.
This is the WONDER ROOM.
If you're interested, please look forward to it.
On Wednesday and Thursday, we will be publishing interviews with the three members of the WONDER ROOM team.