Hello.
This is Noguchi from CASANOVA&CO.
Today, I'll be talking again about WONDER ROOM, which starts this weekend.
As mentioned in yesterday's blog, WONDER ROOM is a brand specializing in "Tenjiku and Urage" fabrics.
All fabrics are original, created under Mr. Kakoi's control.
These fabrics are truly exceptional.
Of course, achieving such quality requires extraordinary effort.
Over these next two days, today and tomorrow, please allow me to introduce the fabrics that WONDER ROOM proudly offers, each with its own name.
Today, we'll cover three fabrics.
・WHALE
・FRIEND
・WAFFLE
These three.
As those of you who saw our 25SS collection might know, these three fabrics are continuing from 25SS.
There was also a fabric called SHADOW in 25SS, which will also continue in 25AW, but it won't be featured at this event, so today we'll focus on the three fabrics above. (SHADOW fans, look forward to 26SS.)
First, WHALE.
【WHALE】
A fabric that can only be produced with the machines and techniques passed down through generations at a factory with over 100 years of history.
The machine, a Model 45 introduced about 80 years ago, is completely different from the mass-production machines used by other factories.
This heavyweight fleece is completed through an unusual combination of over-gauge and density, achievable only with this factory, this craftsman, and this machine.
It's a fabric that tests the craftsman's skill, as even a slight deviation in the machine's mood can prevent it from being knitted.
It is characterized by a firm feel and a soft, resilient touch.
This is also evident in the refined beauty of its reverse side. This unyielding fabric, which can only be knitted at a rate of 30cm per hour, offers a warmth that we urge you to experience through your skin.
*Quoted from the brand's official statement
WHALE also garnered significant attention from everyone in 25SS.
I wore it almost five days a week from December last year to April this year, and it's simply the best.
Its appearance, comfort, and resistance to washing are all perfect.
This is the first time a fleece fabric has moved me so much.
So, what makes it different from ordinary fleece?
It's the Model 45 hanging knitting machine and the skill and patience of the craftsman who operates it.
Mr. Kakoi says that this Model 45 isn't "the only precious machine in the world," and while there's no definite proof, he believes others might still exist somewhere in the world.
However, there's no doubt that WHALE can only be made with "this particular Model 45."
This is because this Model 45 has been so meticulously adjusted to knit at an ultra-high density beyond its limits that it's in a kind of extreme state where the stitch density and needle drop speed can no longer be changed.
Conversely, even if you wanted a "different texture," this Model 45 is inflexible.
No one can revert it to its original state.
It's precisely this ultimate pursuit of gauge, inch, and needle drop speed that creates WHALE's distinctive touch.
The surface of WHALE fabric.
You can see with your own eyes how tightly packed the threads are.
This cannot be done by any other machine than this Model 45, and this Model 45 cannot be operated by any other craftsman.
Moreover, creating something like this comes with a considerable cost.
The craftsman is an extremely meticulous person, and he doesn't overlook even the slightest misalignment of needle drops or looseness in the fabric, things that an amateur wouldn't notice.
Of course, he stays with the Model 45, watching the knitting process intently as he drops the needles. But if such an "error" occurs, he returns the partially knitted material to its raw cotton state and restarts the yarn-making process from scratch.
He detects it with his own eyes and takes it back to square one.
That's why, as a consequence, the concept of "delivery time" doesn't apply.
From the perspective of running a brand, this is incredibly challenging because you can't proceed with work based on deadlines like "it must be finished by this date."
So, if you want to create something with him, you have no choice but to wait for the craftsman to finish the fabric to his own exacting standards.
Furthermore, this Model 45 machine is apparently in a state where it could stop working at any moment.
This is because the Model 45 is an old machine, and they are still carefully using old needle stock from that era, but that stock is reportedly running low.
If they were to switch to modern needles, the Model 45 would no longer be able to produce the same fabric it does now.
However, there are no plans to introduce a new circular knitting machine. So, when this Model 45 stops working, it will mark the end of the craftsman's career as a fabric maker, a kind of "living and dying together" approach.
I've never heard of such a style, and ordinarily it shouldn't be possible, but WONDER ROOM even enjoys these unpredictable elements.
Therefore, no one knows how long this WHALE fabric can continue to be made.
While I have no intention of boasting about its rarity, there's an irreplaceable joy and fascination in being able to wear something of that caliber every day.
This is the kind of exciting uniqueness found at the cutting edge, combined with the gentle feel against the skin that only fleece can offer.
I believe this is Mr. Kakoi's fabric and the true essence of WONDER ROOM.
The back of WHALE.
I have never seen fleece loops aligned so neatly and beautifully.
I think this really speaks to the craftsman's meticulousness.
It's a part that clearly shows how thoroughly the fabric has been made.
Furthermore, WHALE undergoes incredible processes in areas where, once it becomes fabric, the difference cannot be seen with the naked eye.
This takes place in the raw cotton state.
Raw cotton is transported in foot-long containers from various producing regions like America and India.
Of course, to send a lot of cotton balls, they are packed in tightly.
This crushes the cotton, so at typical spinning mills, before the cotton is made into yarn, they put the cotton balls into a large box-like container, blow air from below with a special blower to fluff them up, and then separate impurities. So, there's a step involved in that.
This was the first time I learned about such a process.
However, WHALE went far beyond that. (laughs)
According to the craftsman, the best way is to wait for the cotton balls to naturally fluff up on their own.
For this, they spread the cotton balls in a large gymnasium-like space and just leave them.
This period can range from about two weeks to over a month, apparently.
It's an incredibly primitive process, but theoretically, it's somewhat understandable.
However, I believe it can only be done because the concept of "delivery time" doesn't exist. (laughs)
The variable duration, from two weeks to over a month, for leaving the cotton to fluff up is apparently due to humidity affecting how slowly the cotton opens up, so only the craftsman's tactile sense determines when it's ready.
If there are other fabrics made with such incredible skill and dedication by artisans who devote so much time, please let me know.
Of course, from the perspective of production efficiency and commercial aspects, it's difficult to accept such time-consuming methods. However, since WONDER ROOM is properly releasing it to the world, I respect this style and want to convey it with more love than anyone else.
I feel that WHALE has revived the value of "circular knitting," which was becoming a mere formality due to the phrase being overused, by confronting the machinery and process of "circular knitting" head-on and giving it form, making it the pinnacle of loopwheeled fleece.
＜WHALE items available in-store＞
・flight jacket
・crewneck sweat shirt
【FRIEND】
Developed at a 70-year-old factory, a fabric that delivers comfort satisfying global luxury brands.
Based on machinery imported from overseas, they uniquely developed a machine that combines the best aspects of circular knitting and jacquard knitting to knit at high density.
This unique expression applies jacquard knitting techniques, typically not possible with fleece, to achieve exceptional comfort.
By meticulously altering the yarn quality and twist of the face, middle, and back threads, this fabric offers supreme comfort, mental richness, and washing durability, making it feel like the warmth of cherishing everyday life with friends.
*Quoted from the brand's official statement
Next up is FRIEND.
This is also fleece, meaning sweat fabric.
However, it fundamentally differs from WHALE in that it's not circular-knitted.
FRIEND is "jacquard fleece."
I think this was Mr. Kakoi's invention.
The front of FRIEND, and
the back.
As the name "urage" (fleece) suggests, the back side of the fabric has a napped surface.
FRIEND was designed "paradoxically" using a "jacquard knitting machine" for this napped surface.
Doesn't make much sense, does it? (laughs)
I was confused too when I first heard it.
But this approach is revolutionary.
A jacquard knitting machine is designed to create patterns by pre-designing how threads move, specializing in producing patterns exactly as intended.
Knitted items with brand logos or signature patterns are almost always created using jacquard.
Mr. Kakoi focused on this "thread skipping method for creating patterns."
This is because to create a desired pattern on the surface, the threads on the back must move irregularly, skipping large or small distances in response.
So, instead of the back's thread skipping being inevitably determined by the front's pattern design, why not focus on "how the back threads should skip" and design it in reverse?
That's apparently how it came to be.
I understand the theory.
But honestly, I thought, "No way that's possible." (laughs)
But that's the amazing thing about craftsmen and designers, how they bring it to life.
To make the reverse side feel most comfortable against the skin, they designed the thread skipping on the back to resemble the loops of a towel.
They conducted an insane amount of tests on the length of the thread skips and the strength of the threads, ultimately landing on FRIEND.
This FRIEND fabric is just incredibly easy and comfortable to wear.
Since around April, when WHALE's Atozuke became too warm to wear, I've been wearing these FRIEND shorts constantly.
The touch of the jacquard fleece against the skin is excellent, and the fabric is stretchy, so whether I'm relaxing at home playing with my cat, standing in the shop, or traveling for long periods on business trips, I always reach for these.
Even in its debut season, I thought, "This is an unsung masterpiece!" and ordered a decent quantity despite it being the first season. You all raved about the shorts, even though they went on sale in January.
This led me to the clearly incorrect theory that "good shorts must be sold from January," so you'll likely see some shorts in stores in January 2026. (laughs)
Anyway, that's beside the point. I think FRIEND is a fabric that can find a role in your life 365 days a year.
While the touch is softer than WHALE, its durability is guaranteed.
It won't be affected by 100 washes and a tumble dry.
Unlike WHALE, which is garment-dyed, FRIEND is piece-dyed, so its color stability is also excellent.
Because wearing and washing are assumed, I've reordered FRIEND shorts due to how great they are. So, if you're facing the midsummer heat and thinking, "I can't take it anymore," it's not too late.
Whether CASANOVA&CO becomes a shop that sells shorts from January to August is up to you all. (laughs)
＜FRIEND items available in-store＞
・sweat slacks
・sweat shorts
【WAFFLE】
Developed at a 70-year-old factory, a fabric that delivers comfort satisfying global luxury brands.
The ideal waffle needs to have a firm textured surface, not shrink, achieve the best feel against the skin, offer excellent kickback, and possess high washing durability—all with 100% cotton.
The machine used is based on a completely different machine imported from overseas—neither a circular knitter nor a sinker. Its needles are adapted for circular knitting, the fabric width is narrowed to its utmost limit to increase density, and set to a high gauge. With thick, original doubled yarns, it is knitted slowly and carefully.
It took over 30 samples and more than 300 washing tests to achieve the ideal waffle, balancing yarn type, thickness, and gauge settings.
This resulted in a cutting-edge product that, despite its analog expression, reminds us of important sensations that had been lost in the pursuit of convenience.
*Quoted from the brand's official statement
Today's last one, WAFFLE.
Although it's only the brand's second season, it already feels like the brand's signature item.
This waffle is also not straightforward.
Apparently, Mr. Kakoi, who develops fabrics, loved waffles from the start.
So, because of his profession, he says he's tried knitting waffles with almost every type of cotton in existence. (laughs)
I was already laughing at how amazing this was, but Mr. Kakoi's pursuit never stops.
Beyond cotton types, he also thoroughly experimented with thread counts—whether single, plied, or grouped—he truly tried everything.
It's akin to a "roller-coaster strategy."
He systematically eliminated possibilities in search of the perfect waffle.
He even tried expensive, extra-long staple cotton, but while it felt good against the skin, it didn't "spring back."
"Doesn't spring back" refers to "kickback."
Whether stretched fabric springs back into shape.
This is a crucial point not just for waffles, but for jersey and fleece fabrics too.
Without kickback, the item would become increasingly saggy with each wear.
So, Mr. Kakoi then tried cotton with thicker fibers that would spring back easily.
However, this time, there wasn't enough oil, and it became dry and brittle; the future he envisioned after wearing it wasn't what he expected.
...It was through countless trials and errors like these that WONDER ROOM's waffle came to be.
The weight, density, and three-dimensionality that come with the amount of thread.
When a waffle fabric is this straightforward and expressive, it changes your baseline concept of what a waffle can be.
It might be natural given such an obsessive dedication to waffle fabric, but apparently, the ribbing collapsed first after more than 300 washing tests.
If that's the case, there's only one thing to do.
The pursuit of the perfect ribbing.
Another incredibly long journey begins.
We'll introduce the story of that journey at the event in store, but it's almost insane. (laughs)
I hope you also enjoy the history of Mr. Kakoi's rib development, which spanned about 10 years.
＜WAFFLE items available in-store＞
・waffle
・waffle slacks
That's all for today.
Tomorrow, we'll introduce a completely new lineup of fabrics.
We will introduce Iori-san's first jacquard fleece work and the "(personally) Ultimate Pima Oni-zume Hanging Jersey" which became a legend in 25SS.
To give you a glimpse into the essence of WONDER ROOM, this time we are focusing on fabrics, but we plan to post product shots of each item on Instagram on Friday.
We have listed the items used for each fabric to help you as a reference, so we hope you find it useful.
To be continued.