Hello.
This is Noguchi from CASANOVA&CO.
It's already the end of 2024, with only a few days left.
To everyone who visited CASANOVA&CO or made a purchase this year, thank you very much.
And to everyone who follows our online store and Instagram, thank you as always.
We will continue to strive to provide an enjoyable experience for everyone in 2025.
So, as the title suggests, this time I'd like to introduce a new brand.
I briefly introduced it on Instagram yesterday, and many of you may have already guessed from the images, but it's not clothing.
It's perfume.
It's been a long time since we've featured perfumes in our store, but this is a brand I had privately simulated in my mind, thinking, "If we were ever to carry perfumes, it would be these guys."
And that is...
ATELIER MATERI
To tell you upfront, there are 12 types of fragrances in total: 9 Eaux de Parfum and 3 Extraits de Parfum.
This is the full lineup of the brand.
Apparently, this is the first time the brand has been carried in an area west of Kansai, so we have prepared the full lineup so you can experience the entirety of ATELIER MATERI.
Among our regular customers, some may have a habit of wearing perfume, while others may not.
I myself have always loved perfumes and used to buy them in between splurging on clothes.
So I've always had the habit of wearing perfume, but after using ATELIER MATERI perfumes for about a year, what I've realized is that they are "perfumes that don't tire you out."
I personally don't get a stuffy nose or headaches from strong perfumes, but even so, perfumes can still be tiring.
To give you an idea, the closest feeling of fatigue might be like "indigestion."
It's like your nose and brain, which control scent, are constantly working at full capacity, and lactic acid gradually accumulates.
This kind of fatigue doesn't happen with ATELIER MATERI.
I think that's quite remarkable.
We have a staff member who is allergic to perfumes and can't stop sneezing when they wear them, but even he said that ATELIER MATERI was fine.
I think it's proof that they carefully select and use only high-quality natural fragrance ingredients.
Therefore, I believe that even those who haven't had a habit of wearing perfume before can use it with confidence.
And I think those who are used to wearing perfume will also be surprised.
But first, let me briefly introduce the brand itself.
ATELIER MATERI is a French brand.
It is created by Véronique Le Bihan, a French woman.
While the perfumer for each fragrance varies (some are responsible for multiple types), Véronique Le Bihan, the director, is also knowledgeable in architecture and other fields, and the philosophy surrounding them forms the foundation of all creations, including the brand's scents and bottle designs.
Navy blue glass bottles made with a combination of straight lines and curves.
Caps made of concrete.
And the hand-brushed gold streaks adorning those caps.
And the fragrance blending of each scent.
Everything is based on the brand's underlying philosophy.
...However, for more detailed information on this, please let me explain it thoroughly in-store.
I think you'll appreciate it more when you experience the actual product,
Because the main point today is to let your imagination run wild about each fragrance.
However, I think the bottle is very well designed, and the quality of the spray nozzle is also excellent.
Now, for the main topic.
First, I will introduce each of the nine Eaux de Parfum, along with the visual images provided by the brand, to describe their scents.
Please read with a rich imagination, as if you are generating the scents in your mind. LOL
ATELIER MATERI
Narcisse Taiji
note _
TOP: Pear, Ginger, Tuberose
HEART: Narcissus, Hay, Bran
BASE: Leather, Patchouli, Musk
First up is this one.
As the name "Narcisse" suggests, it's a fragrance based on narcissus.
However, while narcissus is the base, the top notes, which you perceive immediately after spraying, strongly feature tuberose.
Both are floral ingredients extracted from flowers, so some might associate them with a feminine image, but it's a refreshing scent with a green floral impression that I think suits men very well too.
For this Narcisse Taiji, the brand uses narcissus fragrance ingredients from Southern France.
Among them, they chose "wild narcissus" that grows in mountainous areas.
Moreover, local producers are said to harvest over 1.5 tons of narcissus flowers.
I can't even imagine the scale of picking over 1.5 tons of flowers...
However, the amount of fragrance that can be extracted from these harvested narcissus flowers is far less than imagined.
From 1.5 tons of narcissus flowers, the pure narcissus fragrance that can be extracted is...
Believe it or not...
Only...
1 kg.
From 1.5 tons of flowers, only 1 kg.
It seems incredibly unproductive, but this is what it means to use the finest natural fragrances.
After an unbelievable amount of effort and an unimaginable amount of time, the raw materials for beautiful fragrances are created.
While it may not always be true that something is good just because it took a lot of time and effort, even in the world of meticulously crafted perfumes, not just clothing, there are products that involve such human touch, and those are what captivate people.
You will also feel that from ATELIER MATERI.
Against the splendid, initial burst of narcissus, animalic notes like leather and musk gradually emerge, expressing the dark, hazy aspects of narcissus—which is precisely what you'd expect from 100% natural "wild narcissus."
Narcisse Taiji is easy to wear year-round, and I think it's a scent that even those who haven't used much perfume before can easily try.
ATELIER MATERI
Poivre Pomelo
note _
TOP : Timut Pepper, Grapefruit, Pink Pepper
HEART : Angelica, Peony, Osmanthus
BASE : Cedarwood, Vetiver, Mate
"Poivre" is French for "pepper."
"Pomelo" in Japanese is "buntan," or more commonly, grapefruit.
While I imagine almost no one actually sprinkles pepper on grapefruit when eating it, when expressed as a perfume, it's incredibly pleasant.
The opening is precisely those two fragrances asserting themselves directly, creating a clear impression with both freshness and spiciness.
I want you to imagine eating grapefruit sprinkled with pepper; it's a juicy and spicy image, like the grapefruit pulp and pepper berries bursting in your mouth with every bite.
Personally, I've never encountered a perfume where pepper smells so genuinely peppery, but the contrast between the acidity and sweetness of grapefruit and the bitterness, as if you've bitten into grapefruit peel, is beautiful, making it a very fresh and clear scent.
The pepper is a mix of Timut pepper and pink pepper, which not only gives it the typical sharp spiciness of black pepper but also successfully expresses the fruity juiciness of pink pepper berries.
It's the freshest scent from the brand, and it's not too strong, so I think it's quite versatile for any occasion.
This is a citrus fragrance that will smell pleasantly crisp, especially during the humid rainy season and summer months.
ATELIER MATERI
Santal Blond
note _
TOP : Bergamot, Cardamom
HEART : Jasmine, Sandalwood
BASE : Hinoki, Tonka Bean
This Santal Blond is also a very versatile scent from the brand, I believe.
As the name suggests, this is a fragrance based on sandalwood.
Sandalwood is a commonly used fragrance in perfumes and incense, so many people may have heard of its name.
In Japanese, it's called "byakudan," and it's characterized by a slightly powdery sweetness within its woody notes.
This sandalwood is also very rare as a natural fragrance, and it is said to take decades for a sandalwood tree to release its scent after being felled.
To complement the rare natural sandalwood scent, hinoki cypress, also extracted from wood, was used.
From the start, you can feel the refreshing scent of hinoki, but it's not the sharp, "new house" kind of hinoki scent; it's very mellow.
It feels like the sweetness of sandalwood and tonka bean is enveloping the hinoki.
Also, a splendid spiciness of cardamom is distinctly present in the top notes, and these are well-balanced and layered within the perfume, creating a fragrance where each note has a very clear outline.
ATELIER MATERI
Cacao Porcelana
note _
TOP : White Cacao, Rum, Everlasting
HEART : Jasmine, Blond Tobacco, Davana
BASE : Patchouli, Sandalwood, Tonka Bean
Frankly speaking, compared to the previous three, this scent might not be as easy to wear.
However, I think it's a wonderful perfume that offers a surprising and refreshing experience, coupled with an unexpectedly familiar comfort.
As its name Cacao Porcelana suggests, this fragrance has cacao at its core.
A sweet and savory scent, like chocolate cookies baking in the oven.
I think if you try the scent, you'll feel it—it's such a vivid and bold cacao perfume that images of chocolate will start playing in your mind.
In the creation of Cacao Porcelana, the paramount mission was to maximize the rich aroma of white cacao.
So, Marie Hugentobler, the perfumer, apparently collaborated with a French chocolatier to research cacao roasting.
Entrusting cacao matters to chocolatiers, who are cacao professionals.
While the saying goes, "Let the cobbler stick to his last," this pursuit and focus on bringing out the potential of the ingredients truly embodies ATELIER MATERI's character.
The general term for perfumes with delicious sweet dessert-like smells is "gourmand," which means "glutton" in French, and I think Cacao Porcelana can certainly be described as a "gourmand" perfume.
However, it starts with the alcoholic scent of rum and gradually settles into a woody impression, so it's a gourmand that, in a good way, isn't straightforward.
It's incredibly cacao-like, which tends to dominate the impression, but the middle and later notes are also very interesting, and I believe it's a signature scent for the brand.
ATELIER MATERI
Cuir Nilam
note _
TOP : Cardamom, Violet Leaf
HEART : Rose, Leather
BASE : Patchouli, Tobacco
This Cuir Nilam, while not easy to wear, has a very distinctive scent.
The image it evokes is more masculine.
"Cuir" is French for "leather," and as the name suggests, it's a leather-based perfume.
When it comes to leather perfumes, many tend to evoke the image of an adult, gentlemanly man rather than a youthful one.
And they are also scents that tend to strongly divide opinion.
However, this Cuir Nilam, amidst the typically heavy leather, also possesses a pleasant smokiness and a light, ethereal quality.
The key player is "Nilam."
Nilam is the Indonesian word for "patchouli," and indeed, patchouli asserts itself strongly from the opening of Cuir Nilam.
While the scent of patchouli is sometimes compared to ink, the presence of patchouli in this fragrance not only provides the richness of leather but also creates a widespread impression that lingers in the back of the nose.
As time passes, a faint sweetness also emerges, giving it an impression of tenderness within its strength, despite being a leather scent that isn't overly harsh.
I think it's a powerful scent that can stand up to heavy clothing.
ATELIER MATERI
Rose Ardoise
note _
TOP : Nutmeg, Pink Pepper
HEART : Rose, Sage
BASE : Vetiver, Leather, Ambroxan
Actually, the CuirNilam I just mentioned also contains rose, but this Rose Ardoise is, as the name suggests, a perfume with rose as its main theme.
Many people probably have the impression that rose perfumes are for women.
I felt the same way, and indeed, most "rose" scented products on the market are targeted towards women with feminine packaging designs.
However, this Rose Ardoise is, to put it simply,
a "cool rose."
Roses themselves have a feminine image, but this Rose Ardoise gives the impression of a rose interpreted in its entirety, from the thorny stem to the earthy roots.
Therefore, it's not overly floral and also possesses masculine aspects.
You can also detect the spiciness of pink pepper and the astringency of leather, making you think, "Was rose always this easy to wear?"
I think both women and men will like this one.
ATELIER MATERI
Bois d’Ambrette
note _
TOP : Mandarin, Ginger
HEART : Ambrette, Angelica, Amyris
BASE : Musk, Sandalwood, Ambroxan
This is a popular musk-like scent in the world of fragrances.
You probably see "musk" in various places like room fresheners and fabric softeners, but originally, musk is a scent collected from a part called the musk pod within the body of a musk deer.
In other words, it's an animal-derived fragrance ingredient.
However, it is said that there are currently no fragrances that use natural animal musk.
Why is that?
Because the killing of musk deer for fragrance collection became an issue, and now the CITES convention prohibits the import and export of natural musk.
This means that the musk scents used in the world are basically synthetic fragrances, but ATELIER MATERI has focused on "natural botanical musk."
That's the "Ambrette" in the name.
Botanical musk, which has gradually started to be used more in recent years, is a valuable fragrance ingredient extracted from the seeds of the ambrette plant.
I haven't smelled real natural animal musk myself, so I can't make a clear comparison, but I think it has a sensual sweetness similar to musk, with a subtle floral note and a refreshing aftertaste.
Bois d'Ambrette uses ambrette lavishly.
While it definitely has a musk quality, the freshness of mandarin also blends in, giving it a translucent impression rather than a heavy, lingering scent.
It's a familiar scent, but it's made up of unique fragrance notes and I think it's a very well-balanced perfume.
ATELIER MATERI
Cedre Figalia
note _
TOP : Bergamot, Basil, Jamaican Pepper
HEART : Spinach, Mate, Fig Leaf
BASE : Cedarwood, Milky Fig Note, Dry Wood
Cedre Figalia is the most recent addition to the brand's eau de parfum lineup.
The core notes are probably spinach, basil, and fig.
When sprayed, the fresh, green impression of spinach and basil spreads refreshingly.
And, in parallel, the scent of fig rises, which is incredibly milky.
The image is of a lusciously ripe fig, a smooth and creamy fig.
Though I haven't eaten many figs, lol.
At first, there's a strange sensation as the fresh greenness of spinach and basil goes back and forth with the milkiness of fig.
Then, as time passes, the greenness gradually settles, and the presence of cedar becomes more pronounced.
I think people who like this kind of scent will get hooked.
I certainly got hooked.
ATELIER MATERI
Iris Ebene
note _
TOP : Red Mandarin, Petitgrain Mandarin, Jamaican Pepper
HEART : Pink Pepper, Iris, Suede
BASE : Peru Balsam, Sandalwood, Leather Musk
Last but not least, the ninth fragrance is Iris Ebene.
Over the past four months, I've been wearing all nine fragrances in various temperatures, humidities, and activity levels to understand them personally, and Iris Ebene was the one I found most beautiful.
My favorite.
Incidentally, my second favorite is probably Cedre Figalia.
This is completely my subjective opinion, and since everyone perceives scents differently, it's not a big deal, but...
However, even the director, Véronique Le Bihan, apparently loves this Iris Ebene the most.
Her image is of wearing a cashmere sweater in the cold season and donning this scent.
So, I also wore this scent when I wore HERILL's cashmere cable knit.
The main notes are iris and suede leather.
Iris as a fragrance ingredient often has a powdery, cosmetic scent, but in Iris Ebene, it's a well-balanced finish with an earthy feel.
The accompanying suede leather gives the impression of very supple, well-groomed suede.
Although it contains a leather scent, it's a very soft and elegant fragrance, unlike the flashy masculinity typically associated with leather.
Iris Ebene, Cacao Porcelana, and Cuir Nilam are relatively heavier scents within the brand, but ATELIER MATERI's overall impression is of a very transparent fragrance, so I don't think it would feel unpleasant even in the summer.
However, if I had to personally recommend it, I'd say it's more for the autumn and winter seasons.
I think it's also good to change your fragrance according to the autumn/winter and spring/summer seasons.
So, that concludes the eau de parfums.
I'm sorry this has already become quite long.
But, there's more.
From here on, it's Extrait de Parfum.
Oh...
I've been casually using unfamiliar terms like "eau de parfum" and "extrait de parfum," but
you can simply understand them as classifications based on the concentration of the perfume, and that's perfectly fine.
In order of increasing fragrance concentration (proportion of fragrance ingredients):
・Eau de Cologne
・Eau de Toilette
・Eau de Parfum
・Parfum
These are the classifications.
You'll probably find it if you search on Google, and I won't go into detail about the exact percentages here, but
In the "parfum" category, which has the highest concentration, the fragrance concentration is said to be around 15-30%.
The extrait de parfum that I'm about to introduce boasts a fragrance concentration equal to or greater than that.
In other words, in the classification of perfumes, extrait de parfum is "the most richly created scent."
Therefore, they generally tend to be long-lasting and strong-smelling.
That's generally speaking, of course.
However, to avoid any misunderstanding, I think the nine types of eau de parfum I just introduced also have a long-lasting scent.
In my personal experience, if I spray it once in the morning, the scent will mellow out and last until evening.
With extrait de parfum, it's like the scent is even richer and more dynamic, changing as it strongly lasts.
And because of the high concentration of the scent, the appeal of extrait de parfum is that you can feel its rich creation.
It might be a scent that connoisseurs would appreciate, but I'll introduce three types.
ATELIER MATERI
Burgundy Oud
note _
TOP : Blackcurrant bud absolute, Cardamom essence, Bergamot essence
HEART : Geranium essence, Magnolia essence, Davana essence
BASE : Oud, Amyris essence, Leather
In my personal experience, among the three types of extrait de parfum, this is probably the most widely accepted scent.
And when I asked the brand's distributor, it seems that this is indeed the most widely accepted one globally.
Burgundy Oud opens brilliantly with a strikingly fresh blackcurrant scent.
It uses blackcurrant from Burgundy, France, famous for its wines, and has a fresh and rich scent that firmly retains the fruitiness characteristic of ATELIER MATERI.
And deep within that scent, the smokiness of oud, which is central to this perfume, is firmly present. Over time, the sharpness of the blackcurrant gradually softens and becomes rounded, while the hazy, shadowed impression of the oud emerges, enveloping the blackcurrant and melting into the skin.
It has a gorgeous quality, but on the other hand, I think it's a mysterious and enigmatic scent.
ATELIER MATERI
Ambre Papier
note _
TOP : Black Pepper, Pimento, Red Mandarin
HEART : Jasmine, Myrrh essence, Mate absolute, Saffron extract
BASE : Siam Benzoin resinoid, Vetiver essence, Tonka Bean absolute
Ambre Papier struck me as a very spicy and multi-layered perfume.
Initially, the saffron scent and pepper are striking, and gradually, a syrupy sweetness, like tree sap, begins to assert itself.
Ambre Papier was inspired by Armenian paper, a traditional incense made from paper soaked in resin.
It uses benzoin, a fragrance extracted from tree sap, which is also used in Armenian paper. This particular fragrance is collected bit by bit by craftsmen who make incisions in trees by hand.
Furthermore, only light-colored sap is carefully selected, showing an uncompromising commitment to using the best ingredients.
The benzoin thus obtained has an elegant sweet scent similar to vanilla, and along with tonka bean, it supports the sweetness of this fragrance.
If you smell it on a blotter, the distinctive saffron scent might be confusing, but on the skin, I think it's a surprisingly approachable fragrance.
ATELIER MATERI
Neroli Hasbaya
note _
TOP : Neroli essence, Bitter Almond extract, Pistachio
HEART : Orange blossom absolute, Damask rose absolute
BASE : Peru balsam, Sandalwood, Iris
"Muhallabia" is a traditional dessert popular in Middle Eastern countries like Lebanon and Syria.
I've never been to Lebanon or Syria, so it was new to me, but after looking it up, it seems to be a dish similar to milk pudding.
Neroli Hasbaya was created with inspiration from that Muhallabia.
Honestly, among the three Extrait de Parfum types, this one excited me the most, and I struggled the most to put it into words.
I can only tell you that you absolutely must try it, but the image is something like this:
The fruity scent of neroli, reminiscent of orange,
A savory and sweet scent like crushed almonds and pistachios mixed with honey,
And a slightly powdery sweetness from sandalwood and iris
Somehow these scents blend without feeling out of place.
It's a truly unique and incredibly interesting scent.
Including Burgundy Oud and Ambre Papier, I highly recommend the Extrait de Parfum collection to anyone who loves fragrances.
That concludes all 12 types.
Honestly, it's hard to imagine scents from words alone, and like taste, the sense of smell varies from person to person.
Nevertheless, I wanted to introduce them this way so that you could view them with at least some imagination.
They will be available in stores from January 2nd, so if you're interested, please feel free to try them out.