Hello.
This is Noguchi from CASANOVA&CO.
Thank you very much to everyone who viewed LEVER last weekend.
We have extended the viewing period by one day, so you can see it in store until tomorrow, Friday the 30th.
If you have the chance, we would be delighted if you could drop by.
Today, as the title suggests, I'd like to introduce daisuke tanabe.
As I mentioned in a previous blog post, the 2026SS collection by daisuke tanabe, titled "x", was inspired by James Blake's song "Like the End" and focused on the distortions of modern society.
The collection was surprising in its rapid grasp of current social conditions and its depth, and the clothing I'm introducing today is also a series that showcases daisuke tanabe's unique approach.
Tanabe-san's distinctiveness is evident in his ideas and the process he uses to realize them.
Despite their cool appearance, these are incredibly wild power pieces.
daisuke tanabe
x-ray jacquard denim jacket
color _ x-ray jacquard
size _ 38,40
daisuke tanabe
x-ray jacquard denim trousers
color _ x-ray jacquard
size _ 30,32,34
At first glance, you probably won't understand what's going on.
The only thing that might be clear is that it's denim.
The product name even says "denim".
However, this x-ray series is not just denim; it's a jacquard denim created with Tanabe-san's original technique.
Here's a close-up photo of the fabric.
The light brown weft threads freely cross against the indigo warp threads.
This was designed by Tanabe-san himself based on "a certain pattern."
This photo might make it clearer.
There's a double-welt pocket on the right chest, but also a pocket-like trace on the left chest.
Between the third and fourth buttons on the front, there's a mysterious button-like trace.
Next to it, there's also a line that resembles an action pleat.
...As you might have already guessed, this denim jacket has "a denim jacket pattern" on it.
All the details, fading, and stitching are expressed through jacquard weaving.
And it's "forcibly matched" to the pattern of daisuke tanabe.
At this point, the concept is already pretty wild and amazing, but the process of bringing it to life is even wilder.
The starting point was an image of a vintage denim jacket and jeans that I found online.
According to Tanabe-san, it was a considerable vintage and quite expensive.
Of course, it was difficult to purchase such a high-priced vintage item for reference, so he came up with the idea of "tracing from an image."
First, he cropped the image of the vintage denim and applied it to the pattern of his own denim item.
Then, from that image, he converted all the vintage-specific fading and details into "bitmap data."
Using an iPad, he relentlessly traced the vintage denim "dot by dot."
I didn't ask how many hours it took, but just imagining it, I can tell it was a pretty insane task. (lol)
And that's how he used a computer jacquard to weave rigid denim with a "vintage denim pattern" based on that data.
There are countless brands that research vintage-specific features and fading and try to express them through processing, but for a designer to convert that into bitmap data and create a jacquard is unprecedented.
What's more, even without including this denim, he's created a collection of considerable depth, and he's physically pulled off a method that no one would have ever dared to try. I'm completely blown away.
This is on another level, isn't it?
When I first saw this fabric at the exhibition, I honestly thought, "How did he manage to pull this off?"
Because no one had ever done it before, so he couldn't have known if it would succeed.
But Tanabe-san's flexibility of thought contributes to it.
"Since there are about 8000 warp threads set up on the loom, I thought I could express it with a bitmap resolution of about 8000px × 8000px."
He said something like that casually at the exhibition. (lol)
Theoretically, I understand.
Theoretically, that is. (lol)
However, the fact that he can even conceive of such an idea embodies Tanabe-san's monstrous level of thinking as a designer, which allows him to create new things.
With that backstory in mind, please take another look.
The pocket on one chest has no flap, there's a cinch back, and a center back seam.
It seems certain that the base was a T-back wartime model.
I think he also said the pants were from the wartime period, but there aren't enough clues to be sure.
However, with the strong whiskers and honeycombs.
I can surmise that it must have been a very cool piece.
Both the jacket and the pants have completely different patterns from the wartime originals they are based on, resulting in unnatural pattern placements in unnatural positions. This is precisely Tanabe-san's intention and a part of the collection theme "x".
The pocket opening is also misaligned.
The outseam on the left leg appears twisted, but the actual seam is, of course, straight.
This is amazing how much effort Tanabe-san put into weaving the fabric, but cutting it must have been a huge hassle too...
The stitching is off from the actual yoke,
Even though there's no actual center back seam, it looks like a T-back,
And the daisuke tanabe patch overlaps the cinch back,
Depth is created on a flat surface, like a trick art.
Furthermore, as you wear it, the warp threads will fade even more, offering another layer of enjoyment.
I don't think anyone has ever seen what this looks like faded, so the person who buys it will be the first in the world to see this sight.
I'm sure it will look even cooler when it's worn and washed, and takes on its owner's shape.
I thought it would be super interesting if a "real honeycomb" overlaid the "jacquard honeycomb" behind the knees, but since it's wide, honeycombs probably won't form. (lol)
But undoubtedly, what emerges after wearing them will be something neither the original vintage nor anything aiming to be it could achieve.
That is definitely because of Tanabe-san's added creation of "madness and perseverance."
It's appealing for both people and clothes to have such a crazy expression hidden behind a cool appearance.
Please take a look at this unprecedented jacquard denim.