Summer "Yamauchi" Part1

Today, I would like to introduce you to Yamauchi.

There are quite a few variations, so I'll introduce them in two parts.

The second time will probably be tomorrow. perhaps.

This time, it's a short-sleeved shirt and pants that can be worn with a T-shirt.

As for the T-shirt, which I have introduced before, it is made by the "Free Cut Strong Twist Punch" which is a legend even for our store CASANOVA&CO.

The other day, we introduced OLDE HOMESTEADER T-shirts and BODHI cashmere T-shirts, and these T-shirts are the three mainstays in our store this season.

The fabric was made by Ono Modai-Sai in Tokyo, but it was difficult to turn it into clothes, so no one had been able to make it into clothes, but Mr. Yamauchi of Yamauchi successfully created it many years ago, and it is full of originality. This masterpiece series is so good that no one (any brand) can make anything close to it anymore.

This T-shirt is amazing.

This year, it appears in a different form.

It's a V-neck.

Yamauchi Free Cut Strong Twist Punch V-Neck T-Shirt - 1

Yamauchi

Free cut strong twist punch V neck T-shirt

material _ COTTON 83%, POLYURETHANE 12%, NYLON 5%

color_BLACK

size_2,3,4,5

Yamauchi Free Cut Strong Twist Punch V-Neck T-Shirt - 2

Yamauchi

Free cut strong twist punch V neck T-shirt

material _ COTTON 83%, POLYURETHANE 12%, NYLON 5%

color_SUMI

size_2,3,4,5

this.

As mentioned earlier, the fabric is made by Ono Modaiko in Tokyo.

The material has also changed.

83% cotton, 12% polyurethane, 5% nylon.

The cotton is highly twisted and the threads are very tight, making it very noticeable and not fluffy.

However, due to the fluctuation of the strong twist-based fabric, it has a very glossy and luxurious feel when worn.

Everything on the outside is cotton.

The polyurethane from the back supports the fabric itself, and since strong twist cotton and polyurethane are difficult to combine as knitted fabrics, nylon is used inside to connect them.

Yamauchi Free Cut Strong Twist Punch V-Neck T-Shirt - 3

This fabric has a special structure that allows it to stretch and contract with great strength.

And, as you can see in the photo, the edges of the fabric are left uncut.

This is exactly what this fabric symbolizes.

With regular T-shirt fabric, if you just cut it, this will definitely happen.

・Curling (Teenjiku Kurukuru)

・Frayed threads

These two.

However, with this fabric, the polyurethane that appears on the back plays a major role in supporting the structure of the fabric, so the above two things that would normally happen do not occur.

What's more, since it's made of highly twisted cotton, it doesn't stick to your body even when you sweat, and it feels a little cool when you wear it.

Moreover, it dries quickly. Even after washing and sweat when worn.

This is a T-shirt that is very useful in the summer.

Yamauchi Free cut strong twist punch V neck T-shirt - 4

This makes it possible to create rounded hems that are difficult to create neatly with T-shirts.

T-shirts with rounded hems usually have diagonal wrinkles near the seams.

This has no irregularities, it rounds flat, and it looks completely different.

For adult men, I think this is an important element of clothing.

Yamauchi Free cut strong twist punch V neck T-shirt - 5

The cuffs have no folds and are cut off.

Yamauchi Free cut strong twist punch V neck T-shirt - 6

And, as I said at the beginning, this time it's a V-neck.

It's shallow. What is your impression of V?

It feels like a V-neck with a slightly tight neck. Good impression.

Yamauchi Free cut strong twist punch V neck T-shirt - 7

The seams are made with three needles.

The back side that touches the skin is flat.

I guess this spec is a little rare. There are three in the table.

And only the thread in the middle is colored.

By the way, although it is a three-needle stitch, not only is the color different in the middle, but the thickness of the thread itself is also different.

Only the middle one is 30th.

Also, he is said to be 60th.

Therefore, the thread in the middle is set to be twice as thick as the other sewing threads so that it can be seen more clearly.

In fact, it seems that instead of using 60-count yarn, they tried using a slightly thicker 50-count yarn, which is the brand's standard, but it seems that 50-count yarn made the seams stiffer, which is what Mr. Yamauchi wanted. It didn't look or feel like it was worn.

That's why they decided to make the yarn count thinner and made it a combination of 30 and 60 counts.

Well, he's a person who does very detailed designs.

Especially when it comes to sewing specifications.

Even when it comes to T-shirts, we are looking for high precision as a brand.

Yamauchi Free cut strong twist punch V neck T-shirt - 8

If you try wearing this colored stitching, it will be a surprisingly good accent and I think you will like it.

Yamauchi Free cut strong twist punch V neck T-shirt - 9

This is the first appearance.

"Charcoal dyeing".

To be more precise, it is "Kishu Bincho charcoal dyeing".

I'm not acquainted with this, but apparently there is someone in Okayama Prefecture who does this.

Mr. Yamauchi said that it is a method of dyeing using ultra-fine charcoal powder.

It's not a sticky gray, but more like a blue-gray color, and it's characteristic is that it has slight unevenness.

Yamauchi Free cut strong twist punch V neck T-shirt - 10

The BLACK one I mentioned earlier has a completely different level of sophistication from other T-shirts, but this SUMI one has a more casual feel.

The unevenness of the fabric will also increase.

Yamauchi Free cut strong twist punch V neck T-shirt - 11

It may be good for people who don't like T-shirts to be too casual in the summer.

I don't think it looks like a T-shirt.

I think it's amazing that Modaisho Ono's fabric is being made into T-shirts.

Yamauchi Free Cut Strong Twist Punch V-Neck T-Shirt - 12

behind.

Yamauchi Free cut strong twist punch V neck T-shirt - 13

Back side.

If you have seen or own Yamauchi's T-shirts from past seasons, you will understand that in order to make the most of the ``unraveling'' property of this fabric, previous models have been made with The back seam was also cut off.

However, this time, Mr. Yamauchi apparently wanted to use triple-needle sewing, so the back side has a flat seam.

Therefore, the only parts to cut off are the hem of the body and the cuffs.

Yamauchi Free cut strong twist punch V neck T-shirt - 14

The seams on the back of the hem opening are made by stretching only the lock and securing it with a kandome on the back side.

Therefore, even if the hem is cut off, you can rest assured that the seams will be firmly fixed.

Yamauchi Free cut strong twist punch V neck T-shirt - 15

The fineness of the fabric on the inside is amazing.

Can you see that there is no fluff at all and the eyes stand out? ?

This is really amazing.

Seriously, it's extremely comfortable to wear.

I wear it all the time, and when I wash it in the washing machine, sometimes I put it in the net and sometimes I don't, but I can keep wearing it just like when it was new.

I think some people can't wear T-shirts that are too casual even in the summer, and I think they can be worn at work depending on the type of job.

This T-shirt looks so beautiful.

A T-shirt that has the functionality and appearance to keep you cool in the summer.

Actually, the delivery was very quick, in February.

No, it's too early. So I kept it in storage for about 4 months, but I think it's time to use it right away, and Mr. Yamauchi says that they don't have all the brands in stock, so our store is my last resort. lol

Yamauchi Wool Mesh Cross Short Sleeve Jacket - 1

Yamauchi

Wool mesh cloth short sleeve jacket

material_WOOL 100%

color_RED OCHER

size_2,3,4

Next is this.

Extremely good fabric from Kuzuri Keori.

100% Super 120 hard twisted worsted wool mesh.

Even though it's called mesh, it's a plain weave fabric with a completely different structure from regular mesh, which has threads gathered together to form a mesh structure.

Yamauchi Wool Mesh Cloth Short Sleeve Jacket - 2

This overwhelmingly beautiful fabric.

The eyes of the fabric make it look like the wind will pass through it comfortably.

In addition, it has a naturally flowing appearance that is unique to worsted wool, which is made from highly twisted and thin material.

Like the previous T-shirt, this is also very comfortable during the Japanese summer.

Yet, it doesn't stain even when you sweat, dries quickly, and is easy to wash.

Yamauchi Wool Mesh Cloth Short Sleeve Jacket - 3

As you can see from the photo, there are almost no stitches on the outside, and there are no buttons on the front.

The size is a little roomy overall as it moves away from the body.

I think it would be really comfortable to wear an OLDE HOMESTEADER sleeveless shirt or tank top as an inner layer in the summer.

Yamauchi Wool Mesh Cloth Short Sleeve Jacket - 4

back.

Yamauchi Wool Mesh Cross Short Sleeve Jacket - 5

The front is buttonless, giving it a casual feel, but the neckline from the back has a very stylish look.

Mr. Yamauchi always says that even though he likes the relaxed look at the front, he wants to take great care of the back, so the back collar has a stand-up collar.

It is important that the collar is present properly.

Therefore, when worn, the back neckline will align with the neck.

The image is that the collar gradually disappears from the back to the front.

Yamauchi Wool Mesh Cross Short Sleeve Jacket - 6

The hem is straight.

Flowing wool fabric.

Yamauchi Wool Mesh Cross Short Sleeve Jacket - 7

And the back.

It is a specification that the front endpaper is properly present.

Overlock is frequently used in the sewing specifications throughout.

The reason for this is that Yamauchi usually handles seam allowances by folding down or splitting down, but when using wool mesh fabric, the seam allowance ends up being too stiff, and it doesn't bulge out. This is because we choose the sewing specifications that make the fabric look flat when worn.

That's why there aren't too many stitches on the front.

Yamauchi Wool Mesh Cloth Short Sleeve Jacket - 8

The armholes are also overlocked.

I didn't take a photo, but the back neck has a beautiful endpaper.

Yamauchi Wool Mesh Cross Wide Silhouette Pajama Pants - 1

Yamauchi

Wool mesh cross wide silhouette pajama pants

material_WOOL 100%

color_RED OCHER

size_2,3,4

Yamauchi Wool Mesh Cross Wide Silhouette Pajama Pants - 2

Yamauchi

Wool mesh cross wide silhouette pajama pants

material_WOOL 100%

color _ DARK NAVY

size_2,3,4

And finally, this.

The wool mesh pants from earlier.

Although they are called pajama pants, they don't feel like pajamas at all because the fabric made by Kuzuri Keori is of such high quality.

These are extremely cool pants.

Yamauchi Wool Mesh Cross Wide Silhouette Pajama Pants - 3

Easy-fitting pants with elastic waistband.

The waist pockets look like Baker pants.

Yamauchi Wool Mesh Cross Wide Silhouette Pajama Pants - 4

Distinctive pocket stitch work.

Yamauchi Wool Mesh Cross Wide Silhouette Pajama Pants - 5

There is no front opening.

Yamauchi Wool Mesh Cross Wide Silhouette Pajama Pants - 6

The back has a shoulder beaded design.

When new, the pocket openings are hand-tied, so please remove the threads when wearing them.

Yamauchi Wool Mesh Cross Wide Silhouette Pajama Pants - 7

When worn, it is quite light and has a great touch on the lower body.

However, in reality, the fabric still shines.

If you look through it, it will feel see-through, but when you actually wear it, I don't think you'll notice it that much.

The mesh mesh is extremely fine, and both RED OCHER and DARK NAVY are dark colors, so I don't think underwear will be see-through.

Especially with RED OCHER, even people who usually wear red pants (underwear) can feel at ease.

Yamauchi Wool Mesh Cross Wide Silhouette Pajama Pants - 8

Yamauchi Wool Mesh Cross Wide Silhouette Pajama Pants - 9

RED OCHER has a bit of individuality, but I think everyone in DARK NAVY will be in the strike zone.

I haven't had anyone try it on yet, but I'm sure those who do will find it comfortable. I'm sure.

In addition to this, the light fabric allows for a highly flexible drape.

Anyone can immediately imagine wearing this in the summer.

Yamauchi Wool Mesh Cross Wide Silhouette Pajama Pants - 10

A large amount of fiber is used, and the quality of Kuzuri Keori's fabric is durable and very impressive.

Yamauchi Wool Mesh Cross Wide Silhouette Pajama Pants - 11

back.

There is no lining so that you can feel the characteristics of wool mesh to the maximum.

Feel it with your skin.

Yamauchi Wool Mesh Cross Wide Silhouette Pajama Pants - 12

Of course there is no lining on the back.

It just has a very sturdy waist facing and pocket cloth.

Yamauchi Wool Mesh Cross Wide Silhouette Pajama Pants - 13

Waist detail unique to Yamauchi.

This specification is amazing because it will definitely work with any type of pants.

The waist is not a Marbelt, it's an original specification, but there are a lot of sewing points and a lot of parts.

There are endpapers on the waistband, and the way the hands are applied is not normal at all.

The waist area is a place that is subject to a lot of stress, so of course this design makes it more durable, and the fit is also quite good when worn.

Also, this wool mesh fabric has been popping up at Yamauchi in recent years, but the hurdles to weaving it are quite high, and a few days ago he said that Kuzuri Keori had stopped making it.

Therefore, it has a mesh structure like no other, so if you can get your hands on it, please use it and experience it for yourself.

Next time, I will introduce shirts and linen tie-dyed T-shirts.

At the store, we will be displaying everything after we close, so if you are able to come by, please take a look.

Back to blog