Thank you to everyone who made an appointment at NEAT HOUSE, which was held for three days until yesterday.
I've been on a lot of business trips lately, and it's been super busy, so I haven't been able to write this blog for a while, but today, I'll write un/unbient.
un/unbient.
I don't know how many seasons it will be since I started handling it, but the first season at our shop was quite some time ago.
I set a theme for the line-up I handle each season, and decide the line-up based on that theme.
"Worsted" cashmere shirt.
It's also a plaid pattern with threads in a light blue color.
First of all, cashmere is the downy hair of cashmere goats, but most of the time we see it in the world is in autumn and winter, isn't it?
Cashmere goat wool is very good, so knitting it in the fall and winter season will keep you warm and comfortable.
In the winter in Japan, it's pretty cold outside, and when you go inside, the heating works really well, and the temperature difference is amazing.
Even in such a situation, it has a fiber characteristic that can handle it with ease.
After that, it is easy for everyone to imagine, but the texture.
This high-level combination of warmth and touch is the privilege of the cashmere sweater.
That's why cashmere knits come in handy.
However, all of them have one thing in common, and that is "knitting" of "blowing".
Not only cashmere, but animal fibers such as "wool" and "animal hair (cashmere, yak, mohair, camel, alpaca, etc.)" have two types of yarn before they become fabric.
・Spun wool
・Worsted hair
These two.
To put it simply, "spun" is a wool yarn that is made by spinning kinked hair into yarn, and using the kinks to make the yarn less twisted, loosely twisted, and fluffy.
"Worsted hair" refers to wool yarn that is smooth against the skin with little fuzz by twisting the hair or animal hair in a straight state as if it were combed firmly with a comb.
That's why, basically, worsted wool is the same type of wool as suit fabric.
Wool is suitable for knits that contain a lot of air.
And cashmere fiber has a "thermoregulatory function" that is unimaginable for humans, which is genetically equipped so that cashmere goats inhabit regions with extreme temperature differences and can maintain their lives even in such an environment. Because I have it, it is used as a knitted wool, and when I wear it, it protects me with warmth and comfort.
However, this time it's not "spun" but "worsted".
This is important.
I also love "worsted cashmere", but the price inevitably rises, so the hurdle is quite high.
to handle.
But, as I said at the beginning, I couldn't escape this.
The texture and comfort of "worsted cashmere" and a check pattern in shades of light blue.
But that's not all. In order to dramatically increase the durability of the "worsted cashmere", silk "raw silk" is wrapped roughly over the cashmere.
An original fabric made by Mr. Nakamura of un/unbient at Yamaei Keori in Aichi Prefecture.
Wear this and be surprised.
un/unbient
TAT STAND COLLAR SHIRT
material_CASHMERE 78%, SILK 22%
color_BEIGE CHECK
size_3
this.
The shape of the stand collar is made of worsted cashmere and raw silk, and the buttons are all brown pearl buttons (3mm thick).
Don't worry about subtle color differences. ignore it. I'm shooting indoors.
But this fabric cannot be ignored.
Ann's Nakamura says it's cashmere silk poplin, so it's plain weave.
A core of worsted cashmere yarn is covered with raw silk.
It's a plain weave, but it's not uniform, and the raw silk is wound roughly to some extent, so even though it's a high-quality material, the texture of the plain weave fabric has a three-dimensional look.
Gray ju, beige, light blue thread that goes into the ground with a good nuanced shade.
Is this thread the same material?
Probably double thread. Feeling seen with the naked eye.
If you use a microscope, you can see it in one shot, but I'm using a Mac computer now, so I can't use the microscope with this computer.
Because it's a computer-connected microscope.
Therefore, I think that the pattern is created by inserting one double yarn with the same blend ratio.
It's not overt, but this gloss.
If it's spun silk, it will shine more, but since it's unrefined raw silk, I think it retains its luster to some extent.
If this is a bright brilliance, I don't think it's very compatible with this coloring.
No matter how you look at it, I think that you can instantly sense that it is of high quality.
In terms of the touch of the fabric, it glides on your skin.
However, it is a completely different genre from the "smoothness" that can be experienced with high-quality cotton.
You can feel the presence of raw silk, and even more than that, "that feeling" of slipping on the combed cashmere skin.
There is no analogy for this.
Because there's not a lot of worsted cashmere, and no other fabric can achieve this touch.
But we all love it.
I think that.
Wear it and be amazed.
The appearance of the rich fabric flowing down and the brown butterfly shell button.
There is no placket on the front.
It is a back placket specification.
Sword rags and cuffs are of course 3mm thick brown butterfly shells.
Before the world of Corona, I had tea with Ann's Nakamura-san in Okayama.
At that time, we talked about various things, but Mr. Nakamura wanted to avoid intentionally attaching buttons that felt uncomfortable with the fabric. He said
I really like things with powerful buttons, like Araki Yuu's balance of cotton and linen with brass buttons.
But Mr. Nakamura said he wouldn't aim for clothes with those buttons.
Of course, it depends on what the brand is aiming for and why they are making clothes, but relatively un/unbient shirts often come with white or black pearl oysters.
However, this time the fabric is beige.
And because the fabric is the fabric.
In an effort to harmonize with the fabric, the buttons are brown pearl shell buttons, which are rare in the world.
Moreover, it has a thickness of 3 mm, and this contrast is considerable.
I think that the fabric and the buttons complement each other, and neither is inferior.
I think a lot of people will like this combination.
And even in the hanging state, a splendid arm line appears.
A beautiful triangular outline from the shoulder to the elbow.
It means that this worsted cashmere fabric flows down all over.
As for the feeling of wearing, there is a feeling that the wind can pass through, and there is an amount of thread used, so it is not super lightweight, but it would be nice if you could roll up the sleeves and open the front in the summer to make it easy to wear. I'm assuming
Only size 3 is the largest.
I have my own intentions for this, and I think anyone who doesn't reach 190cm can do well.
I'm 167cm, and I think the best balance is wearing worsted cashmere at this size.
For someone with a physique like mine, it would be a large size, but the fabric will fall off, so that's how it works.
And since it's this level of fabric, I thought it would be the easiest size balance to think about how I would wear this shirt, so I only handled size 3. doing.
Of course, people over 180cm can also wear it with just the right size.
Side box pleats.
Also, the cupra lining is attached only to the inside of the back yoke.
I've said this many times before, but it's a worsted cashmere-based shirt.
I think this is very comfortable for Japan's four seasons.
It might be dangerous in the summer. in a positive way.
And on the inside, a special edition of "tat" is printed.
This isn't a regular series, but Anne's Nakamura-san says enjoy the occasional encounters.
That's what it means.
It's not something that always exists, but it's a series that can be attached to something more special in the collection.
And below that is the quality display.
yes. this shirt. washable.
strongest. Super excellent.
If you like it, please take a look.