Today is Nobuyuki Matsui who just arrived yesterday.
We have been handling it since the 2017AW season, and it is already the 8th season.
Nobuyuki Matsui.
Every season I make clothes that can only be made by Mr. Matsui, so every time I see them, my heart is excited and fascinated.
The finished clothes are also made with high quality, but there are not many people in this industry who can create clothes of this level based on the collection theme.
And this season he's been making some really good stuff.
2021SS
"Still Move"
In other words, keep moving.
But it's not.
still does not move. I stayed still. That's what it means.
"Stillness and Motion"
A collection that expresses it.
According to Mr. Matsui, the theme came from plants.
Plants, such as flowers and trees, appear to be stationary, but they continue to grow and move.
Clothes are also stationary, but when you wear them, they move.
And as you wear it, the texture changes, and there is a "movement" that changes the appearance to a different look from when it was brand new.
Broadly speaking, the theme of the season was inspired by such things.
At the 1st Deli, they made me a blouson type jacket, an asymmetrical shirt, a cut-and-sew with different shoulders, a knit cardigan, and a ring belt.
Nobuyuki Matsui
Cardigan
material _ Cotton 65%, Linen 35% (Partly)
color _ Earchy (Brown)
size_2,3
cardigan.
Well, there hasn't been much in menswear lately, but it's about time.
That's why we have prepared it for you.
But it wasn't ordinary.
Knitted fabric based on cotton with a fairly firm and dry texture.
It is a completely original knit by Nobuyuki Matsui, which is knitted by machine, but stopped many times during the knitting process and roving (untwisted) linen threads are manually incorporated.
Commonly known as "Nobuyuki Matsui knitting".
I try to make them look roughly the same, but because I stop the knitting machine halfway through the process and put the linen threads in there by hand, it is impossible to create exactly the same thing. It's a cardigan.
The linen thread that pops out is also different for each piece, and I hope that those who own it will enjoy it.
This cardigan is a collection piece that considers knitting by machine as "movement", stopping it, and knitting linen threads by hand as "stillness".
I went to an exhibition, or rather to Mr. Matsui's atelier, and it caught my eye the moment I arrived.
I think that you can feel the power of Nobuyuki Matsui, which does not exist in this world.
And it's not just the knitted fabric. this.
asymmetric pattern.
I think this is also where Nobuyuki Matsui's color comes out clearly.
Raglan sleeve on the left.
Set-in sleeve on the right.
In addition, the specifications of the placket are also different, making it a very complicated cardigan.
A roving linen with a fluctuation that looks like plant ivy growing all over.
and button.
This is also a noteworthy item.
It is a nut button with leather.
Nut button = Jujube palm fruit. Certainly.
It is also "with skin".
You've never seen one with skin on, have you?
This will be a great learning experience.
It might be, so take a look.
In the first place, isn't Japan now a developed country?
As a matter of course, if you become a developed country, the tertiary industry of the service industry will be the center.
Therefore, most of the raw materials for everything are imported from overseas, where the primary industry is thriving, and purchased.
The same is true for clothing fibers and buttons.
So, most of these nut buttons are usually imported from Ecuador.
However, when imported, it seems that there is no "nut with skin" like this button.
This button by Nobuyuki Matsui is a very old button that dates back to the colonial era when the primary industry was thriving in Japan.
It seems that the button was made in Japan at that time.
Not available overseas. Of course, it is not made in Japan today.
That's why even the buttons have different colors one by one, and the density of the slightly discolored ones is different.
It is a button that suits this knitted fabric very well.
Roving linen on cotton with a firm core.
Nobuyuki Matsui knitting to shape it.
And the nut button with skin used here after the old times.
Those who wanted a cardigan and those who didn't, please watch this.
The back style is also alive and well.
The notation is Brown, but this color and
Nobuyuki Matsui
Cardigan
material _ Cotton 65%, Linen 35% (Partly)
color_Aidate (Navy)
size_2,3
NAVY with clearer contrast.
Against the deep colored ground, the roving thread, which looks like it is shining gold, overwhelmingly shows off the power of this outfit.
It's a piece that takes you to a special scenery just by wearing it.
Please feel the power of Mr. Matsui.
and,
one more.
Nobuyuki Matsui
linen jacket
material_Linen 100%
color_Natural
size_2,3
It's a blouson.
This is also a symbolic piece that greatly reflects the theme of this season.
"Noriwari".
Linen plain weave fabric dyed by the technique.
After weaving the fabric, a thick layer of starch is applied to the entire surface of the fabric, and the fabric is left to dry.
After that, the glue is cracked, the dye is poured, and the technique is dyed.
Continuing from last season's persimmon tannin dyeing, you've done a very advanced and expensive dyeing, Mr. Matsui.
Also, after the glue dries, normally the fabric is rolled or wrapped around a cylinder to break the glue regularly, but this is not the case.
He hit it with a hammer, laid it on the factory floor at the sample stage, and worked without being conscious of anything, stepping on it and creating natural cracks.
It seems that they have not stepped on anything that can be commercialized, but rather than regular and uniform cracks, it is artificial, but it seems that they have created "glue cracks" that are the closest to natural appearance that cannot be aimed at.
When you look at this fabric, it's very beautiful and has a lot of depth.
I don't call it a work because it's for sale, but I think it exists in a realm that transcends the framework of clothing.
As a clothing store, it makes me happy to be able to handle clothes made of this kind of fabric. very.
It's a G Jean type blouson.
But unlike that casual base, the specifications are also special.
The stitches are not exposed on the collar and draw a curve.
It also has a moon waist that supports the collar, which is not found in denim jackets.
The feather collar is made of two pieces of fabric, but the back collar is not visible against the front. I'm doing really well.
The back collar cannot be seen from the front.
With waist pocket.
It is cut with a front pleat and a switch like 3rd TYPE, but it has a very neat look.
Chest pocket.
The clothes Mr. Matsui makes are very structured, so they have pockets that you can't see at first glance.
Complicated specifications with piping that are unique and good at the back.
There is no lining on the bodice,
The original cupra lining, which is the thickest in Japan, is placed on the sleeve lining.
Two sleeves and a beautiful back style are the main premise, so it is a switching specification.
yes.
Adjuster bow with a sword tip type adjuster.
This blouson is made with a lot more changes than normal clothes, so you can enjoy the look of seaweed by changing the fabric.
Other than this cardigan and jacket, I have received it, so if you like it, please take a look.
