Today, I would like to introduce a little of Nobuyuki Matsui's new collection.
"Through the curtain"
I used to do shows in Paris, but I haven't held a show in Paris since the Corona era.
During Tokyo Fashion Week, I was invited to hold a show for this collection at an atelier/showroom in an old building in Asakusa.
So, very much, it left an impression on me.
As per the theme of the collection, it's like looking through a curtain, it's not clear, it's ambiguous, but when you look through it, it looks beautiful, and at the same time, it's a collection that creates comfortable clothes.
But the details are quite the quality of Mr. Matsui of Nobuyuki Matsui.
Nobuyuki Matsui
Cardigan
material _ COTTON 78%, SILK 22%
color_WHITE
size_2,3
*Sold out
First of all.
cardigan.
As you can see, it's the lace fabric for curtains.
Nobuyuki Matsui's unique asymmetrical design cardigan.
The left sleeve has a raglan sleeve and no placket.
On the other hand, the right sleeve is a set-in sleeve, and the placket is switched.
I've written about the sleeves with different shapes on the left and right sides many times on this blog, but they follow the essence of Mr. Matsui's best at tailoring-based thinking.
Mr. Matsui is a super crazy designer.
I'm a designer, so of course I can draw pictures, draw patterns by hand, and sew at the best level.
You can still weave fabric.
At that point, I don't think I'll be in Japan. such a designer.
In addition, as mentioned above, the genre that I am most good at is "suits".
A designer who uses "genuine hair core" to create "hand stabbed" suits.
It's crazy.
There is no such designer.
That's Mr. Matsui, so even in the field of ready-made clothes, I change the sleeve pattern on the left and right so that the wearer can experience what happens with a slight change in the pattern.
this.
Placed on a flat surface, the arms are naturally spread to the left and right.
You can see that the angle at which the arm rises differs between the left sleeve and the right sleeve.
Of course, the switching lines on the left and right shoulders are different, so that becomes a design accent.
Experience it to the fullest.
The difference between raglan sleeves and set-in sleeves.
this.
The knitted fabric is an original knitted pattern that resembles curtain lace.
This knitting is all designed by Mr. Matsui, and is unique in the world.
This lace part is 100% cotton.
To be frank, the first time I saw this, it seemed like a pretty high hurdle, and I wondered if I could wear it. ? It was a feeling, but when I tried it on for the time being, it was unexpectedly unexpected.
I can wear it normally.
It's not ordinary.
But I'm not going to be a feminine boy at all.
There are gaps in the stitches, so it feels transparent, but if you compare it, it feels like you're wearing an Aran sweater.
So, I think that if you're stylish enough, you'll be able to handle it with ease. seriously.
After that, well, as you can see, the wind is very good.
This is super comfortable for spring and summer.
The rib part of this cardigan is all silk spun.
That's why the knitted fabric shines a little more at the ribs.
Also the right placket. Hem ribs too.
silk spinning.
Can you tell by looking at it like this? thread difference.
The ribs are silk spun with luster and transparency.
From there, the main body of the knitted fabric is made of 100 cotton that becomes a comfortable mat.
A beautiful transition too.
As you can see, the buttons are, of course, handmade.
Large transparent horn button.
The pattern is also different one by one.
The 100% cotton thread that forms the lace fabric is twisted together to make it thicker, so you can feel safe and secure.
I think it's pretty strong.
So you can wear it without any worries.
Because the thread is thick, I wonder if it looks like an Aran knit. when you wear it.
back.
This is an ivory color, but the coloring is WHITE, but there was NAVY as another option.
However, I thought that it was completely WHITE that this knitted fabric could be worn alive.
So this is only one color deal.
Nobuyuki Matsui
Pullover
material _ SILK 77%, COTTON 19%, CUPRO 4%
color_NAVY
size_2,3
*Size 3 is sold out.
On the other hand, this is NAVY's crew neck type.
This pullover style was developed in WHITE and NAVY, but in contrast to the cardigan, this one is NAVY only.
The reason is that it is the silk spun yarn that occupies most of the mixed ratio.
With WHITE, the sparkle was quite strong.
Most of the knitted fabric of the bodice is not lace.
So, this is NAVY.
This pullover is also distinctive no matter who sees it.
From the right shoulder to the elbow of the left sleeve is a thick lace knitted fabric.
And the left sleeve is raglan as well.
And the material of the front is also changed along with the knitted fabric.
Things change beautifully so that things can be seen through the gaps in the swaying curtains, and the threads hang like they are swaying.
Silk spinning occupies the ground, but from there, the organization switches vaguely to cupra and cotton.
this is the back
As you can see, the right sleeve is a set-in sleeve.
And the knitted fabric is only silk.
After all, this is a silk spun knit, and as I introduced it at MOTHER HAND artisan, it feels amazing when worn.
Mr. Matsui of Nobuyuki Matsui works with a knitter who has amazing skills, so he can realize things that cannot be done easily.
In the past, we even developed a knitting system with a name like "Nobuyuki Matsui knitting".
Wake is also a brand that produces wonderful knitwear.
A knit that coexists with the fineness and beauty of the texture and the vague ambiguity.
This is unique to Mr. Matsui, who is able to create such things with silk-spun knits.
I was surprised to wear this too.
Nobuyuki Matsui
Shrink raw edge jacket
face material _ COTTON 100%
sleeve lining material _CUPRO 100%
color_GREY
size_2
Finally this.
A jacket that expresses the ambiguity of the surface and the ambiguity of the boundaries of the parts of the clothes without taking the homogeneity of the fabric surface.
This is Nobuyuki Matsui's unique balance. The sleeves feel long, but if you wear it with long hands, it's a jacket that's insanely, transcendentally, awesome.
I have short arms so I have extra sleeves.
The base fabric is 100% cotton right twill.
The entire fabric has a salt-shrinking process that makes it feel uneven.
As a result, the entire fabric shrinks and bumps and bumps appear.
Also, thanks to the salt shrinkage, there is also a slight shade of color.
The collar is designed to float without stitching.
I think anyone can see it, but the essence is the denim jacket.
There is a hidden breast pocket and waist pocket.
Nobuyuki Matsui's finely honed sewing technique that attacks the edge of the fabric and the insertion of the cut off fabric that perfectly matches the width of the seam allowance according to the collection theme.
It looks simple, but it has fine details and a well-proportioned structure.
If you stare at this outfit for an hour or so, you'll realize that everything has been designed in great detail.
This is the switching of the elbow part of the sleeve.
Similarly, the double-stitched seam allowance and the width of the uncut fabric are exactly the same.
However, when it comes to cut-off clothes, the emphasis is on the atmosphere, and various parts can be deceived, so there are a lot of rough clothes as clothes.
I don't like that kind of thing.
Because Nobuyuki Matsui's clothes are all polished.
back.
The clothes that Mr. Matsui makes are mainly sharp clothes, but the overall shape is wonderfully applied where it is needed.
This is also a shape using the back switching.
Because it is in the loose size mainstream, it is suitable for everyone. I don't think it can be translated, but people who like this genre of clothes will like it very much. I think
inside.
The season is spring and summer, so it is a single specification.
However, piping is perfect for the bag cloth of the pocket.
It's a fairly thick fabric, but the edge stitching on the edge of the fabric is amazing.
A very polite specification to the back.
This is also one of the common features of this brand.
Look.
This back.
super high level.
Only the sleeve lining is lined with the world's thickest and strongest Cupra 100 gold.
This is completely considering slipping when putting on and taking off.
I can't really see it in the photo.
this.
The size is only available in size 2, which is the smallest among the brands, but I think it will be a great fit for those who fit.
Take a look at Nobuyuki Matsui's clothes.
