Today, I will introduce it for the first time in a while.
Isabella Stefanelli.
First of all, I think it would be great if people would think of the products we create under the brand Isabella Stefanelli as true "once-in-a-lifetime opportunities."
That means "production numbers are limited" .
It means "almost never encountering" the same thing.
Well, there are, but the above two are not the same as "limiting the number of products distributed due to business strategy" that you sometimes see.
The truth is that even though the brand strives to produce as many clothes as possible, it is unable to distribute them at all .
Also, the reason you almost never find the same item is because stores like ours don't have a "normal" system for ordering from brands.
Isabella Stefanelli opens an exhibition.
At that time, buyers from stores nationwide are gathered in order and orders are placed "on the spot."
If it is a regular clothing brand, there will be "samples" lined up when ordering for an exhibition.
However, in the case of Isabella Stefanelli, there are no "samples" at the exhibition.
The only thing there was a piece of clothing called sheeting, a so-called "cloth" that had the same shape as Isabella Stafanelli's clothes.
In addition to that, there are a wide variety of "fabric" lineups to choose from.
What kind of clothes will be made and what kind of clothes will be displayed in stores will be a test of the skill of us buyers gathered there.
Moreover, you have to imagine it in your head, make full use of your brain, and order it on the spot.
The reason is clear.
This is because there is a high degree of freedom and there are so many different choices that if you go back and order at a later date, everyone will have no idea which one is which.
So, the first time I was able to order and see the finished clothes was when Isabella Stafanelli delivered them to me.
I feel like I can match the answers at that time.
But, well, that answer will never come off.
absolutely.
The reason for this is Isabella's overwhelming ability and sense.
Well, if you think about it that way, in a sense, I might be off.
They will always create clothes that far exceed your imagination.
Every time, I am reminded of Isabella Stefanelli's ability.
And in my heart, I feel tremendous respect and take my hat off.
Such brands have no parallels even in the wide world.
Also, speaking of Isabella Stefanelli, those of you who are familiar with it are also aware that it is a brand whose prices are not disclosed.
I wouldn't go so far as to say that the price of branded clothing is the highest among our CASANOVA&CO stores, but it definitely ranks first. lol
However, the reason is clear.
This is because "all kinds of methods have been tried" on a single piece of clothing, and the result is perfection.
For example, today we will introduce a piece of clothing that is shaped like a shirt.
Isabella Stefanelli's clothes are all produced in her atelier on the outskirts of London.
Most of it is hand sewn.
80% to 90% of the construction is hand-stitched. No, maybe more.
For example, let's say that Isabella Stefanelli produced one of today's shirts.
On the other hand, let's assume that a shirt factory produces 100 shirts of a similar shape.
Both of them, at the same time, all at once. If production starts with , which one will be completed faster?
1 Isabella vs. 100 Shirt Factory
This is because production of 100 shirts at a shirt factory can be completed much faster.
In other words, Isabella Stefanelli's clothes cost hundreds of thousands of yen.
The general concept of ``mass production'' of 100 pieces allows prices to be diversified.
And such products have a certain specification, and when manufactured in today's world, they are all of average quality and uniform.
When making one piece of clothing, the cost can be spread over 100 pieces, making it more affordable. What is mass production?
This is not limited to Isabella Stafanelli's clothes, but is common to all products in the world.
Furthermore, the difference in production speed is not simply the difference in speed between "hand-sewn" and "machine-sewn".
There's a reason why Isabella Stafanelli's clothes are the way they are.
That's what I said earlier: ``Try every possible method.''
What do you mean. . .
As mentioned earlier, Isabella Stefanelli will begin production after the buyer's order at the exhibition.
Almost all of them come from "different orders" to Isabella.
Even though the number of clothing styles offered by the brand is not huge, there are still many choices when it comes to fabrics.
For example, suppose there is a form A.
There are dozens of fabric options for the A shape.
The fabric choices are not just different colors.
The mix ratio of the dough is different, and the texture is also different. Along with this, the thickness of the thread and the thickness of the fabric are different.
Moreover, the buyer can also choose whether the fabric will be used for the "front" or "back" of the garment.
In addition, Isabella Stafanelli has two types of fabrics: loom-woven fabrics and hand-woven fabrics.
Strictly speaking, there are also knits.
In order to shape each buyer's order for the shape of A,...
Isabella Stefanelli creates clothes using the "selected fabrics" and the most appropriate specifications .
Isabella started sewing at the age of 4 under the guidance of her Italian tailor father.
He is now in his late 40s, but when he was young, his father taught him to be a gifted person, and he taught him how to make clothes as a tailor.
And even now, throughout his life, he continues to make clothes.
It has been about 44 years now. The time spent making clothes.
A woman with that much experience in making clothes...
When making clothes...
In order to create that shocking quality,...
Before going into production...
Try "different things".
It uses fabrics that are actually ordered...
First of all, make a "miniature" .
Using miniature clothes, try out what methods and specifications best match details such as collars and pockets.
Specifically, how to attach the collar, how to process it, and whether to hide the seam allowance, expose it, or make it all in one piece. . .
Furthermore, Ms. Isabella ``tried everything'' she could think of, including the ``sewing thread'' .
Not only does the ``material'' and ``thickness'' of the sewing thread matter, but there is also the fact that ``no sewing thread is used'' in the areas to be sewn.
Specifically, "extracting thread from fabric."
This is also extremely hard to beat.
Sometimes the warp or weft threads that make up the fabric are removed and used as sewing threads.
In fact, some of the Isabella Stafanelli clothes that we carry in our store use fabric threads as sewing threads.
And then...
Detail specifications × Sewing thread type
With this in mind, she creates miniature-sized clothes using fabrics that will actually be used, and then chooses the combinations that Isabella herself is convinced will be used in her products.
That's why the specifications and quality of Isabella Stafanelli's clothes are so ultra-super, I've never seen them anywhere else.
This always moves me from the bottom of my heart.
Moreover, what we just talked about was only about the specifications of the clothes.
I won't explain it today, but there are a wide variety of clothing shapes, but all of them are amazing three-dimensional shapes.
I consider myself a superhuman for creating something of this level in the first place.
I briefly wrote about the process by which Isabella Stefanelli's clothes go from being ordered by a store to being put into production, but I'm not talking about the clothes themselves, but just a small part of the process before that. That's all.
Although it is only a part of the elements that create "Isabella Stafanelli clothes", in the entire production process...
The result of the accumulation is...
"Isabella Stafanelli" .
That's why I haven't been able to introduce this brand much on this blog, because it's not too complex and my blog tends to be relatively long.
But today, I'd like to introduce you to the first one.
There are many other items in the store, so if you are interested, please contact us to see if you can see them.
Isabella Stefanelli
Audey
material _ WOOL,COTTON,SILK
thread _ HEMP (hand-sewn part), COTTON (machine-sewn part)
button _ COROZO BURNED
size _ 2 (equivalent to S size)
this.
A shirt-shaped item with the name "Audrey" on it.
At Isabella Stafanelli, everything is named after a real person.
However, it is not a name that is added after the clothes are finished, as is the case with domestic brands.
In the first place, the design was based on the idea that the actual person might have worn clothes like this when they were alive.
As a result, the name of the person who imagined it is attached to the clothes.
The one I'd like to introduce this time is "Audrey Hepburn."
Isabella designs clothes based on the image of someone who sympathized with the person's way of life, way of thinking, and personality when the person was alive. )".
Born in Belgium, Audrey Hepburn instantly became known around the world in 1953 when she was selected for the role in ``Roman Holiday'' even though she was still a young actress.
It is said that he passed away in 1993, but based on his personality, Isabella imagines that he would have worn clothes like this when he was alive.The design of this shirt is based on his imagination.
As shown in the photo, the shirt has a stand collar.
However, this one piece is filled with extraordinary details that cannot be seen 100% in other clothes.
First of all, please take a look at this photo to get a little idea of how Isabella Stefanelli makes clothes.
back.
I'm sure many of you reading this blog know about Isabella Stefanelli's clothes, but have never seen the "behind the scenes" of them.
Even if you look at the product in the store, you may feel reluctant to actually turn it over at the store.
If you are familiar with clothes, I think you will be able to notice many things from the two photos on the back side above.
First of all, at the root of Isabella Stefanelli's mind is not a "fashion" mindset.
As I wrote at the beginning, Isabella's work as a tailor is at the core of her clothing making.
His father, who was a custom-made tailor, has taught me how to make clothes.
The item I'm introducing on this blog is a shirt type called "Audrey," so that's true, but all of Isabella Stefanelli's clothes have no lining.
The reason for this is that in the world of tailoring, there are three main levels.
This idea puts aside the season for a moment, but at tailor...
・Fully lined
・Semi-lined
・No lining
These three technologies can be broadly divided.
Of course, the lower you go, the more advanced technology is required.
The reason is simple.
This is because adding a lining allows you to hide the processing on the back.
Therefore, unlike fashion, in the world of true tailoring, ``no lining'' is considered the ``best technique.''
For this reason, Isabella, who has acquired overwhelming skills through special education from an early age, never uses lining.
Also, since I mentioned the lining, I would also like to inform you that we do not use the "interlining" that is customary for clothing.
This is also really serious, and it's super surprising, but it's because the direction and specifications of the fabric have been carefully thought out , without using interlining, which is normally used to keep clothes' shape and prevent them from stretching. , they are unnecessary.
It's so bad.
And this photo is also a photo of the armhole area around the shoulder on the back.
Can you see how the seams are so flat that there are no edges? ?
Even the areas where multiple pieces of fabric overlap are flat.
Of course, the optimal back seam is chosen depending on the shape and fabric of the garment, but the one thing they all have in common...
Isabella Stafanelli's clothes have very thin seams on the back and are very beautiful.
Another major feature is that the backs of all of their clothes are finished to an astonishing level.
By the way, in the case of this fabric by Audrey that I'm introducing today, I used the only lockstitch sewing machine I have in my atelier, and I used a stitch size of about 50. cotton thread.
Then, I hand-stitched with hemp thread to make the seam allowances flat.
Look. That's amazing, isn't it?
However, as I said earlier, if it is made of a different fabric, the combination of cotton thread and hemp thread will change, so this is what the Audrey I am introducing this time looks like.
And please take a look here again.
In addition,,,
From the front, this photo is on the side.
Please pay attention to the "body".
There are no changes to the body.
In other words, it is composed of a single piece of fabric.
There are no switches either on the back or on the sides of the body.
However, this is understandable if you are making two-dimensional clothes.
Isabella Stefanelli is super three-dimensional .
Creating this with a single, continuous piece of fabric.
Constructing the body from a single piece of fabric physically means that there are fewer sewing areas.
As for what I mean...
Please take a look at it carefully.
What I can say from what I have introduced so far.
"Fewer fabric parts, fewer sewing points."
This means that the world's most advanced "extreme techniques" are applied to the limited sewing areas.
The body is made of a single piece of fabric, and that single piece of fabric is used to its ultimate potential to create a stunning form.
In addition, that's why we make miniature prototypes of various things in the few sewing areas.
This is one of the dangerous elements of Isabella Stefanelli.
This photo shows Audrey with a back placket, but the back placket is hand sewn from white twill linen fabric.
By the way, if you look at the photo above, you will understand that the backs of both plackets are "fabric hem".
Isabella Stafenelli uses the fabric horizontally in coats such as Virginia's, and the width of the fabric is the length of the coat, but in this Audrey, the fabric is used vertically.
Therefore, the width of the shirt itself, including the back placket, is made of double width fabric.
I think this element of ``utilizing the fabric as much as possible'' is unique to Isabella Stefanelli.
It's really nice, isn't it?
By the way, the collar of the stand-up collar is sewn by hand with hemp thread using the same fabric as a facing from the back.
However, this part cannot be seen in the photo, but by folding the same fabric twice to create a facing fabric, and making the grain of the fabric "bias" (45 degrees diagonally), it can be made without using interlining. I aim to keep the collar standing properly.
Furthermore, even the fabric folded back at the back placket is doubled.
In the area of the collar where the most beautiful turning is required...
Double layer on the back placket (vertical stitch) + double layer on the collar end (bias) = "4 pieces of fabric".
Moreover, it is full and hand-sewn.
This is what creates a very beautiful collar line.
Return to table.
As I said earlier, the back placket is sewn with twill linen fabric as a backing.
The hand stitching appears on the front.
The buttons are grilled corozo buttons.
It's the fruit of a palm tree.
The button has a distinctive shape, but it is also baked to give it a rich texture.
But please take a moment to look at this.
Button thread.
This is also not normal.
Normally, buttons are attached using thread of one color, but buttons are attached using thread of two colors that match the fabric.
Not only the buttons, but even the thread used to attach the buttons are specifications that have never been seen on other brands of clothing.
This good looks and sense.
The appearance of the clothes changes greatly depending on whether this is a single color thread like normal buttoning or something like this.
Of course, Isabella Stefanelli is not a buttonhole machine.
Make the slits by hand and attach the buttons using two colors of thread of the same color as the fabric, similar to the button attaching threads above.
In this case, Audrey made a slit in the fabric, but some clothes do not have a slit for the buttonhole, but instead push the threads of the fabric apart by hand to create a gap for the button to pass through. Because it's okay. It's amazing.
The back has gathers using the hemp thread used in the main hand-sewn areas.
This is a shirt that depicts the form of clothing without using a back yoke.
I'll post a photo of the dress worn later, so if you look at it you'll understand that the gathers are an essential detail that creates the form of Audrey's clothes.
This is also sewn from the back with linen fabric.
armhole.
I think it's very hard to see, but this "armhole part" hides Isabella Stefanelli's super magic .
Do you understand? ?
At an angle I've never seen before, the shape of the armholes has changed dramatically.
Because Isabella Stefanelli rarely changes fabrics, there seems to be a "reason why it has to be this way."
In the case of Audrey, which we are introducing today, the armholes are usually circular, but unless they have this shape, the outline of the outfit that Isabella envisions would not be possible.
In addition, the sleeves are ``single-piece sleeves,'' but originally the seam should have been placed on the inside of the sleeves.
But there's a seam on the outside of my arm in a place I've never seen before.
There is also a reason why it absolutely has to be here.
I don't think it's possible because a price is a price, but Isabella Stefanelli's clothes, if you were to undo the seams and "decompose" them, you would definitely see pattern lines that no one could have ever seen or imagined. I'm doing
This is a photo of the back side, but even when viewed from the back, the armholes draw lines like this.
About the fabric.
The Audrey I'm introducing today uses fabric from England.
Materials are wool, cotton, and silk.
When I look at the fabric, I think it's a combination of double threads and single threads.
Also, at first glance, it looks like it's made up of about 5 colors, but since it uses 2 types of heathered yarn, if you count the number of colors, it's a really amazing fabric.
The texture of the fabric is not heavy, but it has a certain density, and although it is taut, it falls flat.
And for this collection, to match the theme, there was an option to hand-sew tips from Isabella Stefanelli's archive fabrics.
So, I asked Isabella to leave the fabric, color, and location to me for just one place.
That's why blue archival fabric chips are sewn on.
If you look closely, you can see that the texture of the fabric is very well organized and the threads are beautiful.
The hem and cuffs have the weft carefully removed.
Worn by a person with a height of 167cm and a weight of 52kg.
It's roomy enough, so I think it's the best size for people from my size to people around 170cm tall.
The sleeves of Isabella Stefanelli's clothes are always a little long for me, but I think someone with a similar build would find the sleeves a little better.
That's why the Isabella Stafenelli clothes that I wear on a daily basis usually have sleeves folded in a deliberate way.
You can see how the ``hugging room'' that starts from the shoulders and falls downwards slides in smoothly.
side view.
Even when viewed from the side, there is a "hugging room" in the front and back.
The drape starts from the top of the shoulder.
This is so beautiful.
Also, it may be hard to see, but please take a look at the sleeves.
The sleeves are just hanging your arms down, but the shape of the sleeves is clearly visible.
And the armhole.
If you compare the armholes and the sleeves themselves, you will notice that the armholes look smaller than the sleeves when viewed from the side.
By making the armholes appear smaller, your arms will appear ``slender and sharp''.
But do you notice that the arms look soft and gradually bulge out from the armhole towards the elbow to allow for natural movement?
If you look at the actual product on a hanger, it doesn't look like that. lol
It is designed to take on that shape when worn.
Furthermore, if you raise your arms a little, you'll notice that a diagonal drape appears from your armpits and around your waist.
This proves that the body and sleeves of the clothes are not simply attached as "parts", but that the upper body is made up of one piece.
Therefore, the entire garment follows your body movements.
It remains constant, but the facial expressions it shows change as it moves.
However, it is not difficult to move at all.
This is amazing. Isabella Stefanelli.
The back style is also stunning.
Extraordinarily beautiful drapes appear from both shoulders down.
The gathers at the neck allow for a natural fit on the shoulders and free up the fabric at the back.
Accompanying this is a high-dimensional form that is not unusual.
In this blog, I introduced ``some elements'' of Isabella Stefanelli's clothes making, but as expected, these clothes are truly ``a series of surprises'' when you wear them.
Especially when you wear it in your everyday life, there are many things that you notice naturally.
I was like that.
When I walk around town, I see incredibly beautiful drapes that naturally appear in positions I've never seen before.
When exposed to natural light, the beauty of the texture of the fabric and the deep contrast between the hand-stitched seams are captivating.
Even though you just put it on, it hugs your body and you won't feel tired or uncomfortable even if you wear it for long hours of the day.
A month later than when I first got it.
Three months later than one month later.
Rather than three months later, six months later, one year later.
three years from now rather than one year from now. . .
I notice more and more things.
That's why I'm starting to like the Isabella Stefanelli clothes I get more and more.
Isabella Stefanelli's clothes are the work of Isabella herself, who has dedicated her life to making clothes.
A talented person who has devoted most of his life to ``making clothes'' and is one of the most talented people in the world, has created with his own hands extraordinary things that would be mind-boggling to an ordinary person. After a long process, the "one piece of clothing" is finally produced.
I think this is very valuable.
I think that many people probably think that this class of clothes is not something that they can wear over and over again in their lives.
Because it's expensive.
However, I am sure that you will be able to feel the reason with your own skin, eyes, and heart.
As I have written many times on this blog, I believe that having really good clothes can be a great learning experience in life.
You can feel this very, very deeply in Isabella Stefanelli's clothes.
Honestly, it's amazing. Many things.
If you are interested, please take a look.