This project with Yamauchi, which I have been announcing the other day.
Today, I would like to introduce the short pants with "Hakomura Shibori" that I briefly introduced yesterday.
As I mentioned a little bit yesterday, when I went to Mr. Yamauchi's atelier for the first time in a while, I was shown the Hakomura shibori fabric that "couldn't be commercialized".
Hakomura shibori is a traditional Japanese dyeing technique, one of the "Arimatsu shibori" dyeing methods that have been practiced since ancient times in the Arimatsu region of Aichi Prefecture.
It is a technique that has been used only for Japanese clothes for a long time, but Kuno Dye Factory is the first to apply Arimatsu Shibori to Western clothes instead of Japanese clothes.
Was it Issey Miyake? Certainly.
Also, Kuno Dye Factory continues to do tie-dyeing for world-famous maisons.
I just said it yesterday.
Dyeing "other than Yamauchi" performed at Kuno Dye Factory,
All "dyeing in the product".
In other words, post-processing.
Only Yamauchi in the world,
I'm doing "dyeing with fabric".
The difference makes an immeasurable difference in the process of clothing production.
The number of processes has increased significantly, and the hurdles for making clothes from fabric that has been subjected to Hakomura-shibori are extremely high.
Of course, there is a big difference in the degree of perfection between fabric dyeing and product dyeing.
The production process and the difficulty of making clothes exist in the dyeing process, but even the actual application of Hakomura shibori is a battle with the unknown.
Therefore, in Mr. Yamauchi's atelier, there are "traces" of Hakomura Shibori.
Hakomura shibori was performed for this production, but it was not what Mr. Yamauchi intended at the time.
Something that could not be reproduced and could not be mass-produced.
What I did for the trial production.
Around 3m of fabric with various Hakomura shibori was sleeping.
It seemed like a treasure trove to me.
Moreover, many of them had fabric touches suitable for the spring and summer seasons.
So call it "shorts".
The Hakomura Shibori is filled with Kuno Dye Factory's historic techniques.
I want you to experience it.
And the shorts this time are all one-of-a-kind.
Not all have the same pattern.
Furthermore, the nuances of coloring are also unique.
Therefore, we divide them roughly into eight types, from A to H in the alphabet.
However, there are differences within each type.
For example, the pattern A is the one with the most variations this time.
There are two patterns for A as well. smile
Well, even a professional can't control the finish, so I'd be happy if you could enjoy encountering each one.
Let me introduce you.
Yamauchi for CASANOVA&CO
Hakomura short pants
material_COTTON 100%
color _ A (first)
size_SM,ML
*Sold out
Yamauchi for CASANOVA&CO
Hakomura short pants
material_COTTON 100%
color _ A (second)
size_SM,ML
*Sold out
Yamauchi for CASANOVA&CO
Hakomura short pants
material_COTTON 100%
color_B
size_SM
*Sold out
Yamauchi for CASANOVA&CO
Hakomura short pants
material_COTTON 100%
color_C
size_SM,ML
*Sold out
Yamauchi for CASANOVA&CO
Hakomura short pants
material_COTTON 100%
color_D
size_ML
*Sold out
Yamauchi for CASANOVA&CO
Hakomura short pants
material_COTTON 100%
color_E
size_SM,ML
*Sold out
Yamauchi for CASANOVA&CO
Hakomura short pants
material_COTTON 100%
color_F
size_ML
*Sold out
Yamauchi for CASANOVA&CO
Hakomura short pants
material_COTTON 100%
color_G
size_SM,ML
*Sold out
Yamauchi for CASANOVA&CO
hybrid cotton shorts
material_COTTON 100%
color_H
size_SM,ML
*Sold out
A to H above, to be exact, there are about 9 variations of short pants.
As for H, as you can see, it is not Hakomura Shibori.
hybrid cotton.
This is also a fabric that was stored in the atelier because the fabric was too dense and the black dyeing was slightly uneven, so it could not be used for products.
However, I don't think you can see this unevenness in color.
This fabric is woven by Fukuda Orimono, and it is made by weaving very thin threads at an ultra-high density.
As the name suggests, it is 100 cotton with a touch that makes you think it is nylon.
So, I thought it would be perfect for shorts, so I made this one as an H pattern.
The lineup is as above.
Originally, the fabrics stored in the atelier were cut to around 3m for Hakomura shibori, so due to the number of meters, there were some patterns that could only be produced in one piece.
Except for the A pattern and the pattern for which we were only able to produce one piece, there is one each in two sizes, SM and ML.
The A pattern was a Hakomura Shibori that Mr. Yamauchi made for the actual production of the collection, but the color and pattern were different from the sample, so it was not possible to make it into a product at that time. what I couldn't do.
The A-patterned Hakomura-shibori fabric, which could not be commercialized, was made into short pants.
So, I wonder if I can prepare a certain amount only for the A pattern.
Well, they all look different. smile
Let me explain what kind of shorts they are.
this.
This is what was described as A pattern (first).
I'm wearing this
I don't care.
These are my shorts.
In Yamauchi, short pants have only appeared once in the past, so they are very rare in collections.
Because it's shorts, it looks light, but Yamauchi-san's techniques are generously packed, so the quality is quite solid.
Waist as you can see.
There is a front opening, but the waist band has evenly elastic.
The top button is a genuine water buffalo button.
The specification inside the waist is with tengu.
Front closure with Excela zipper.
The original marbelt specification devised by Mr. Yamauchi.
I think that you can understand this internal structure in an instant when you see it, but it is not at the level of ordinary short pants.
The curved Tengu parts are evenly stitched from the edge of the fabric without going out of order.
It's shorts, but it's equipped with this inner Yamauchi marbelt.
Due to the nature of clothes, these kinds of clothes are often worn in summer, especially in hot weather, so the market is flooded with flimsy and frivolous items.
However, this time, I asked them to use Hakomura fabric, which is like a treasure, so I asked them to make it with "super Yamauchi" specifications.
Cord inside the waist.
For the tip of this cord, Mr. Yamauchi uses heat-compression bonding because metal parts are overly assertive, and his principle is to avoid using anything other than fasteners as much as possible.
A belt loop is also provided.
I didn't take a picture of the back of the belt loop this time, but as usual, the fabric is carefully folded and the belt loop is sewn.
Usually, belt loops are made with a special tool that can be easily attached to a sewing machine, and there are also ultra-high-speed belt loop production machines, but Yamauchi doesn't use them. of.
If that's the case, the construction is not good enough.
Also, since Hakomura shibori is applied at the "fabric stage", even the belt loops can be finely patterned.
That's why I think each and every part that makes up the shorts stands out and stands out.
If this is a Hakomura shibori in the product, the whole will look flatter.
Anyway, this luck.
please look.
Shorts, 30 count sewing thread, 19 stitches per 3 cm.
This is a divine skill.
Now the stitches look like dots.
It's short pants.
It's shorts.
Shorts.
So I think fine stitching at this level is out of the question.
Extremely dangerous.
I've seen short pants in my life, and the number of stitches is overwhelmingly the number one. smile
Mr. Yamauchi designed it at that level.
Of course, the stitches on the hem are evenly spaced from the edge of the fabric.
back.
The specifications on the back are both welt pockets, and the water buffalo buttons are placed at the pocket openings so that the openings do not pop open.
The expression of a "craft" peculiar to Hakomura Shibori that cannot be artificially controlled.
A natural water buffalo with a wild flavor.
This button also has a different pattern, so it has a very high affinity in appearance.
It has an elastic waistband, but there are two darts in the back to make the waist look rounder.
Also, yes.
The front also has darts on each side.
Belt loops as above.
The belt loops are installed by pouring the upper part into the waist belt.
For the lower part, hang the overlock on the edge of the fabric and slam it.
This belt loop treatment is also a very durable and beautiful finishing method that can be used properly.
This is also a specification unique to Yamauchi.
Of course, it's not a normal installation method, so it takes a lot of time and effort.
Go back to the front desk.
As mentioned earlier, it is a zipper front, but the edge of the front opening, that is, the edge of the left front body, has edge stitching.
Here, normal pants do not have edge stitches.
This is Yamauchi's original specification.
Also, although it is cut off in the picture, the stitching on the front cover.
This part is generally curved a few centimeters below the opening end of the front and disappears at the joint of the left and right bodies, but this time, the stitching to hold the facing is added to the crotch. It continues until
As a result, the beginning of the inner thigh can be seen neatly, and the facing is reduced from interfering with the outer material.
This is well done.
Well, you can't see it in this photo.
I will talk about it while looking at the real thing.
The outside seams, the inside seams, and the seams of the buttocks are double-stitched like this.
Of course, this is also the 30th sewing thread, and the astonishing stitch work of 19 stitches between 3 cm.
Therefore, the sewing machine does not advance at all.
Moreover, because it is so detailed, when you are sewing here, you can not stop once.
Once you stop sewing, the angle of the next stitch will be slightly misaligned.
Therefore, it is necessary to sew carefully and slowly in a straight line.
This is professional skill.
This is what the back looks like.
There are 3 types of stitches in this area for a total of 4 stitches.
From the left, an overlock for processing fabric edges.
Next, lockstitching that is also exposed on the front.
Next, lockstitching that is also exposed on the front.
The rightmost one is plain sewing.
These four.
Since it is designed with the appropriate specifications to match the fabric of these shorts, it uses overlocks, and uses finer thread than double stitching for presser stitches.
Moreover, none of them are distorted at all, and they run parallel forever.
These shorts are very well sewn.
back.
You can see the inside of the waist belt, the deep pocket bag cloth, and the length of the characteristic front inside.
behind the back.
Same here.
It's hard to convey in a photo, but I think the real thing is a level that can impress.
The concept of making shorts will be greatly updated.
No matter how you look at it, I think Bing Bing will be able to see that it is sewn very carefully.
Mr. Yamauchi from Yamauchi says, "I really like sewing."
As you said, I didn't take a picture, but there was another endpaper on the back of the waist belt endpaper (black fabric that the drawcord passed through), and another endpaper on the back of the zipper front endpaper. And it's made with a lot of hands to the messy details.
The end paper is the fabric that is applied to the back of the outer material, and the fabric is sewn on the back of the fabric that is applied to the back.
Moreover, it is all top-stitched with transcendent luck needles.
However, it is not just the first "spec battle", it leads to a dramatic improvement in durability, and it does not look frivolous.
And above all, when you put it on, you can really feel that it is made with such care and effort.
That's why I think you'll be able to experience a dimension of shorts that no one has ever worn before.
The fabric that was only kept in the atelier.
To me, it looked really bright.
I wanted to make it possible for you to get your hands on it, but I never thought that Mr. Yamauchi would make such a detailed design.
When these shorts were finished, they were bigger, bigger, bigger, bigger than I had imagined.
When Yamauchi's sewing is added to the shiny fabric, it becomes such a quality. I was so moved.
So everyone will be impressed with the shorts.
And this time, there are two people who sewed these shorts.
Each person sewed half the quantity.
Rie Sano
and
Sachiko Sako.
The two of us sewed half the amount, but both of them are super high level.
Anyway, Yamauchi's sewing specifications are complicated, but they are completed with wonderful quality.
Well, if you can see it, turn the shorts upside down and take a look at this sewing technique.
Because it's dangerous.
So this.
what I wear
It's an A pattern.
Strictly speaking, it is classified as the first A pattern.
I'm 167cm and 53kg, and I'm wearing SM size, which is the smaller size.
Then I washed it once.
As a result, wrinkles from washing and puckering appeared.
No dimensional change is felt.
As for size, it is available in 2 sizes, SM and ML.
Just think of the smaller one and the larger one.
For the shorts this time, I wanted to make the most of the power of Hakomura fabric and Yamauchi's level of sewing, so I asked Mr. Yamauchi to make the shorts in a standard shape.
The shape was normal and good.
Because the quality of fabric and sewing is unmatched.
In Watari width, it is normal.
The length is about knee level.
I emphasized that you can wear it normally without thinking about anything.
Even though it's worn casually, the fabric and stitching are top-notch.
I don't care about anything, but the level of things seems to be on a different level than the short pants around here.
Therefore, it was best to aim for a shape that can be worn without thinking about anything.
I think you can use it more often in the summer when you can wear shorts, and I think you can really feel the process that went into making this kind of clothes the best way to experience it.
Since we were able to make this Hakomura fabric into clothes, please don't think too much and wear it very often.
So, if you sweat, wash it.
Wear it again after it dries.
I think that's what makes these shorts the most meaningful.
As for the price, A pattern to H pattern are all the same price.
The Hakomura cargo pants that are in the brand's collection are sometimes called cargo pants, but since they are 66,000 yen (tax included), I don't think there is any point in having these shorts if you don't get them. I was.
So, I think that it was completed at a not bad price.
We will be able to see this from June 11th (Sat).
