Finally, it has appeared.
A much-anticipated and highly anticipated release.
Araki Yuu.
It's a 100% cotton short-sleeved shirt.
But this short-sleeved shirt.
Cotton, yuck.
And Araki Yuu's construction is also amazing.
For me, it's something I'm dying to get my hands on, and it's more than just drool-worthy.
Take a look carefully.
First, the materials.
As mentioned above, it's 100% cotton.
But this cotton.
For me too, it's something I feel very strongly about.
It's called "Suvin Gold Supreme."
yes.
Last December.
We would like to thank Mr. Sugihara of nonnotte and Mr. Ota of Kaneta Textiles for their hard work.
This cotton fabric was the first woven clothing item in Japan and was sold at our store, Casa Nova & Co.
At the time, there were two versions available, a plain weave version and a twill weave version, but the initial nonnotte special order was only available in the plain weave version.
However, in order to make the most of this incredible material, Ota from Kaneta Textiles had been conducting research and prototyping behind the scenes until the very last moment, creating a fabric that maximized the use of the "Suvin Gold Supreme" material.
Of course, neither Sugihara of nonnotte nor I knew about this.
And the items made using that fabric are now available at Araki Yuu.
In the first place, the Suvin Gold Supreme raw materials rarely come into Japan under normal circumstances.
Therefore, if you wanted to make clothes out of it, an enormous production lot would be required.
However, Ota was kind enough to stock the lot at Kaneta Orimono, which meant we were able to start selling it in our store in December.
At that time, due to the circumstances, the first unveiling of the Suvin Gold Supreme material was at our store, CASANOVA&CO.
After that, I heard that Kaneta Orimono was asking several brands to consider using it.
However, I had heard that although several brands had considered using it, the raw materials were expensive and very specialized, so other than nonnotte, no other brands had really taken the plunge.
Except for one brand...
The world's best cotton fiber Suvin Gold Supreme × Araki Yuu
This is truly a dream-like piece of clothing.
When I heard from Araki Yuu that he had acquired the Suvin Gold Supreme material, I was already super excited.
And when I actually saw the real thing, it really took my breath away.
Its perfection.
Because it's a short-sleeved shirt.
Does wearing a short-sleeved shirt ever make you shiver?
For me, this short-sleeved shirt is the overwhelming No. 1 thing I've ever been excited about in my life.
As expected from Araki Yuu.
It's in a class of its own.
this.
The best cotton fiber in the world.
"Suvin Gold Supreme".
As I wrote about in this blog in December, this is the first generation of the Suvin breed.
Because the Svin variety is a "recessive genetic trait," the quality of the raw cotton gradually declines from the first generation, second generation, third generation, etc.
Svin Gold Supreme (1st generation)
Svin Gold (2nd generation)
The following are all Svin (3rd generation)
・
・
・
It becomes.
Even on a global scale, the total production volume of the Svin variety is very small, and of that production, most is sold within Japan.
So, for us Japanese, swig cotton doesn't seem like a particularly welcome thing, but the phenomenon is unique to Japan and is very unique.
But, they are the "parents" of Svin's "parents."
Suvin Gold Supreme.
This is absolutely amazing.
Look again.
Those who regularly look at clothing brands that use Kaneta Orimono's fabrics will know that Kaneta's fabrics are extremely distinctive.
As a weaver, most of the looms I own are shuttle looms, the most analog type.
This weaver is known for making fabrics that are extremely high density and extremely strong to the touch by making full use of this technology.
However, this is nothing like that ultra-dense touch.
This fabric is made using the finest raw materials and has been the product of Kaneta Orimono's extensive experience, calculations and research in order to make the most of them.
This fabric is designed so that the "twist angle" of the fibers and the "thread angle" are as uniform as possible.
Then there's the "cover factor," which is how much of the fabric's surface area is covered by the yarn.
With this goal in mind, Suvin Gold Supreme's twill fabric is produced without direct contact with the yarn as much as possible.
I'm sure you've heard the word "density" often in relation to fabric, but I imagine no one has heard the term "coverage factor."
I also first heard this term from Mr. Ota of Kaneta Textiles.
The fabric of this Suvin Gold Supreme has a cover factor designed by Mr. Ohta.
In order to make the most of the quality of the raw cotton and the yarn, we do not make the fabric dense.
It was designed so that the gap would be filled exactly and reduced to zero.
In short, the entire surface area is completely covered with Suvin Gold Supreme thread.
If there is a gap between the threads, the material will become "see-through."
On the other hand, narrowing the gap any further would reduce the attractiveness of the material and yarn.
In other words, it was designed to achieve a coverage factor of "just barely opaque."
The shine of this fabric, its wonderful touch and fine texture.
I really want everyone in the world to know about it.
Araki Yuu then turns these exquisite cotton fabrics into clothing.
Araki Yuu
Short Sleeve Shirt
material _ COTTON 100% (Suvin Gold Supreme)
color _ WHITE
size_1,2
*Size 1 is sold out.
Araki Yuu
Short Sleeve Shirt
Material: 100% cotton
color _ DYED DARK
*Sold out
Here.
A very rare short-sleeved garment from the brand.
Araki Yuu has put a lot of thought into this short-sleeved shirt, resulting in a stunning piece.
By the way, the DYED DARK color scheme has already sold out, as we were unable to prepare any at all due to reduced production.
this.
A shirt that incorporates all of Araki Yuu's techniques.
The parts that are cut off and the parts that aren't.
Where to add stitches and where not to.
By utilizing a variety of sewing specifications and techniques, they have created some incredibly cool items.
First of all, the collar has a soft nuance.
This collar is slightly small and gently curved, and has no stitching.
Small, open collar.
The collar has no overstitching, but there is stitching on the edge of the placket.
back.
The back collar is a classic style that is sometimes seen at Araki Yuu.
High yoke with raw edge sewn back body.
The back yoke features antique lace, a signature feature of the brand's shirts.
The armholes are high and cut off.
The seam between the front body and the back yoke is not only not raw but also has a welt stitch.
The part in this photo is especially worth seeing.
・Seamless collar
- Welt stitching at body and yoke
-Raw armholes
It is an incredible place where three different specifications coexist.
For me, the contrast of the stitching is simply beautiful.
However, this is apparently a sewing specification that Araki of Araki Yuu came up with through trial and error, with the goal of making the wearer look their best when wearing the garment.
Looking at these sewing specifications, you can really sense the thought that went into Araki Yuu's trial and error in creating each and every short-sleeved shirt.
If you think about it logically, if a brand mass-produces its products in a sewing factory, the first short-sleeved shirt they make would never be of this quality or have these specifications.
I think this shirt very strongly reflects Araki Yuu's approach to clothing design.
So when I saw this shirt for the first time, I didn't take the order home with me, but instead ordered it right then and there.
It is a short-sleeved shirt made with such craftsmanship. I really wanted to introduce it to as many people as possible.
The delivery will be in August when the autumn/winter season is starting. Even if I know that, it doesn't matter.
I think Araki Yuu's clothing design is an absolute necessity.
No matter how little they produce, they continue to make it themselves, and the concentration of the product continues to improve.
If I am no longer able to introduce brands that continue to "create what I think is my own" then I will lose sight of the meaning of my existence.
It's not normal at all, it's not rational, and I think it's extremely difficult, but if someone continues to do it and what they create is first-rate, I believe that such a person should definitely be known and recognized by the world.
I feel this especially strongly in the world of clothing .
However, if they were making something tacky or low quality, I wouldn't think that at all.
I think everyone should really know about brands in this space.
By doing so, I believe that owners can learn something from the clothes and have a major impact on their own "values."
Let's get back to the topic.
The hem is cut off.
Side view.
There is a gusset on the side of the hem.
As you can see, the hem itself is raw cut, double stitched, and has threads sticking out.
But,
This is the hem seen from the back.
This is a detail used in Araki Yuu's raw hem shirts, where when the hem is raw, a facing is sewn to the shirt using the same fabric in exactly the same shape as the hem.
However, there is a facing fabric sewn to the back of the hem.
Because the grain of the fabric is set on the bias (diagonal), the facing fabric is very unlikely to fray.
The grain of the fabric on the front is vertical, so threads will come flying out, but the facing fabric is double stitched (sewn twice) and sewn on a bias, so the threads are contained to a certain extent and the shape of the shirt is not changed.
Araki Yuu's clothes are not just for the atmosphere. Not at all.
He designs the specifications in great detail and then takes his time to sew them together himself.
It's a very well made, nice outfit.
And this shirt.
The chest pocket is a distinctive feature.
A shape I've never seen before.
This is because Araki from Araki Yuu was bothered by the fact that when she put her sunglasses in her chest pocket during the summer, they would slip off when she bent forward.
In the first place, it is very unusual for a brand to produce short-sleeved shirts.
Until now, the idea was to develop fabrics and make clothes using fabrics appropriate for the season.
However, in Japan today, summer temperatures are rising rapidly.
With this in mind, and in order to make the most of the Suvin Gold Supreme fabric, we took a slightly different approach to Araki Yuu's previous clothes.
This Short Sleeve Shirt was designed to be suitable for midsummer with its "construction specifications and volume of the clothing."
During the summer, there are more opportunities to wear sunglasses, and as a result, people often put their sunglasses in their pockets when they take them off.
So, your sunglasses will fit snugly in your breast pocket, and they won't fall out even if you don't button it up.
This chest pocket design was created by Araki himself, the creator.
This pocket was created with that idea in mind, and I think it's an incredibly well-made detail.
This pentagonal flap.
There is double stitching on the top, which looks absolutely stunning on the Suvin Gold Supreme.
Truly "good fabric and good sewing."
When these two elements are combined, you can truly appreciate the quality of the item.
This pentagonal flap is made from two pieces of fabric sewn together.
In addition, the pocket itself has very fine stitching.
In addition, both ends of the pocket opening are hand-sewn with silk thread.
Pocket of appreciation.
And, and, you can feel Araki Yuu's originality on the sleeves as well.
Until now, the shirts that Araki Yuu has made have mostly had relatively narrow arms.
That's also my favorite,
This time, it's a short-sleeved shirt that is perfect for midsummer.
The volume of the five-quarter sleeves is designed to allow wind to pass through, and the hem is designed to allow the amount of wind to pass through to be adjusted.
The sleeves are designed with the primary consideration of ensuring that the wearer feels comfortable when wearing this shirt.
By the way, this is a photo of the back of the sword rag.
Very flat and very pretty.
Have you ever seen a shirt with such flat and beautifully finished edges?
I...
there is no!
I wonder if this sword rag was removed a few years ago?
This detail was thought up by Araki, who researched "how to make the cuffs feel most comfortable against the skin."
Because this is really amazing.
Araki Yuu has mastered behind-the-scenes processing to a level that no one else can match.
This is a brand that makes clothes like that.
Overall view from the back.
The back of this short-sleeved shirt is also finished in an incredibly beautiful way.
Even though the front is cut off in some places, the back is sewn very neatly.
This shows how comfortable Araki Yuu's clothes are.
In particular, with this short-sleeved shirt, there's a high possibility that the inner layer is thin.
So you can literally feel the quality of Araki Yuu's sewing on your skin.
This is the back of the placket.
The edges of the fabric on the back of the placket are also neatly overlocked.
This short-sleeved shirt has a wide placket on the inside and a thin interlining because the Suvin Gold Supreme is made from a very soft fabric.
I think that the mood of Araki Yuu's clothes and the soft nuances of the fabric are not compromised, and even the short-sleeved shirts are fitted with interlining to help maintain their shape and prevent them from looking flimsy.
This Short Sleeve Shirt has a wide lining, but my impression is that this is not a brand that often puts interlining in the front part.
However, this short-sleeved shirt is not an extension of a regular shirt, but rather was developed with the idea in mind of "what is best for Araki Yuu to wear in midsummer."
So, as I said earlier, I think you can really feel the "traces of Araki Yuu's thoughts."
This is the finished product: a 100% short-sleeved shirt.
I think it would be better for everyone to have this.
Well, I wouldn't say everyone has received theirs yet.
Cuffs seen from the back.
Even though the photo is taken from behind, the high quality of the clothes is overflowing.
wear.
Height 167cm, weight 52kg, number 1.
Normally, I wear size 0 for Araki Yuu, but I thought that people of my build, or even those a little bigger, could wear size 1 with a nice volume, so this time I am only carrying sizes 1 and 2.
Oh no, that's bad.
This is the level of aura he has in a short-sleeved shirt.
I've never seen it.
By the way, this Araki Yuu short-sleeved shirt is of course the last one for our store's spring/summer season.
Although only a limited number of people will be able to physically own this item, those who are able to get their hands on it can enjoy Kaneta Orimono's Suvin Gold Supreme fabric and Araki Yuu's clothing making to their heart's content.