It's the middle of May, and most of the brands we carry have completed their spring/summer season.
It's this time of year, and I think it's time for some people to announce the end of spring and summer, but now that we're here, the spring and summer season is complete.
Araki Yuu.
Last year, long-sleeve shirts arrived just as other brands were becoming mainstream, but this time they arrived even later than the 19SS.
It's just that I'm making a good one for that amount.
Two long sleeve shirts and one vest.
I think that you can see the expression from the depth of the material that Araki Yuu draws out.
Yuu Araki
new classic shirt
material_silk 100%
dye _ garment dye
button_brass
size_1.2
A new classic shirt that will be the first in the 2020SS season.
Among the Araki Yuu lineup that we have been handling for the past few seasons, this shirt is relatively roomy.
The long, loosely rounded hem and moderately roomy width of the body, the loose waist shape, and the flowing drape of the silk material.
We already have one shirt in the same shape as this shirt, but this one is garment dyed.
It is sewn with undyed extra-thick silk, and after it has taken shape, the designer himself dyes it.
The dyeing method brings out the texture of this silk even more. Vegetable dyeing using walnut peel. Iron is used as a mordant (a mediator between the raw material to be dyed and the fabric) to bring out the unique expression of silk.
You could say it's raised, or rather, the color is the same, and the dryness peculiar to garment dyeing appears on the skin, so it can be said that it erases the dressy "feel" of silk.
It's just a touch of silk that doesn't just have a strong feeling of falling and slimy.
A dry, dry texture that seems to have already begun to wither.
However, the silk that feels wet when it hits the skin is still alive and well. It seems contradictory. Strangely.
One of the characteristics of the Araki Yuu brand is that the designer does everything from cutting, sewing, buttonholes, button making, finishing, and shipping all by himself. I don't think so.
It's a plain weave of silk, but recently there are many things like that, but the overwhelming feeling of the extra-thick silk fabric with such a high density and weight.
Originally, silk was woven on an old loom used to weave cotton.
I think that you can see the difference from other silk fabrics.
Regarding the color, it is said that walnut peel is used, but I am not familiar with that kind of thing.
Beige is beige, but it's different from Bimyo. If you dye it with chemicals, you can get a color that you have seen before, but this time the opponent is "walnut".
It has a gentle mood, but it's made stronger by Araki Yuu's exquisite tailoring. Or rather, the base is silk, which is unusual, so it has a lot of power.
This season, Araki Yuu used this fabric to do various botanical dyes. There was also a bright red silk that was so glamorous that no one would ever wear it.
Also, there were several gradations of grays and blues depending on the raw materials. I think there were about 7 in all.
So, I forgot what the red silk was dyed with, and this time I was at a loss until the very end. However, since the material is silk, the queen of fibers, I thought red might be too strong.
In addition, silk is a fiber composed of about 18 kinds of amino acids, and its extremely complicated structure is completely different from other fibers, so it is harder to understand than the vivid red color that can be differentiated at a glance. It's a color, but I wanted people to feel the harmony created by combining that color with silk.
Then, fortunately, the brass, which is also Araki Yuu's signature, has a great contrast. I had high expectations, but they far exceeded them. This brass button is also processed one by one by the designer to give it a slightly corroded look.
That's why I think you can feel a gentle decadence with this walnut color.
I've already hand washed it in the atelier after completion.
As usual, I've already upgraded one step at the finishing stage.
It's made of 100% silk, but it's about to get hot from now on, so I think it's okay if you actively run it through the water.
There are some people who are concerned about this shirt, but I hope you can rest assured that this shirt will not shrink.
Also, I like this, but it's still in new condition, so the high-class luster unique to silk material hasn't disappeared. It has a rather dull sheen. In the future, by repeating the approach to water more and more, the original luster of silk will disappear further. After the silk texture disappears, I think that the apex texture will appear.
It may be best to simply wear it as if you were wearing it just to protect yourself from the overly strong air conditioning. Regarding this summer.
If you can associate with me with that kind of feeling, I think it will transform into an even more wonderful shirt by next spring.
This shirt is only made in 2 pieces in the world. In other words, size 1 and 2 are handled one by one, so it will be exclusive only for our shop.
Thankfully, the number of inquiries about Araki Yuu has been increasing rapidly recently, so if you like things, I would be happy if you could pay attention to it.
And another shirt.
Yuu Araki
raw cut no collar narrow shirt
material_cotton 100%
button_brass
size_0.1
This is a collarless shirt made of 100% cotton. There is no base collar, so it is not a band collar. Pure and genuine colorless.
This fabric is a 100-count two-ply yarn fabric that Araki Yuu continues to use. It has firmness and a very high density. However, the finest cotton with a moist touch when worn.
At this time of year, if you wear it over a T-shirt or tank top, I think you will be able to clearly feel the difference in the cotton that Araki Yuu uses. Because it's amazing.
Cotton shirts are overflowing with the world, but it's different from the fabric. This is evident even in new condition. This is a level that you can choose for comfort against your skin.
However, it may be a few years before we can fully realize the potential of this cotton. Repeat the washing process, and when the thread that has been cut and processed no longer spouts out, stand on the starting line.
It's long.
Somehow, the fabric never dies.
It loses its elasticity and gradually changes from wet to dry, but the firmness remains and there is always a good hit.
The texture changes depending on how many times you wear it and when you dive into the water, but you can really enjoy how it looks from time to time.
It's not a feeling that only the owner can experience, but it's a privilege.
Also brass buttons.
Also, as you can see from the photo of this shirt at the beginning, this shirt has a chest pocket. Antique lace is sewn on that part.
This is what the designer likes and collects, and it seems that it is an old race about 100 years ago.
Normally, Araki Yuu's shirts are attached to the back yoke, but this one is also placed on the chest. And unlike the silk shirt mentioned earlier, most of the seam allowance is exposed.
However, it's not just a matter of putting what's originally on the back to the front.
It would be nice if you could confirm this with the actual product.
In terms of fitting, this shirt has a more defined shape than the previous one.
Of course, the amount of room is perfect, but it is a shirt that feels more just sized.
Recently, people have moved away from looser sizes, but I feel that there are more people who want to enjoy a more comfortable fit, so I think they will be pleased with their bodies. increase.
Also, all of Araki Yuu's shirts have sleeves attached later, so the movement of the arms is quite good.
In general, most shirts are sewn together on the sides of the body and the inside of the sleeves, but the separate stitching prevents the body from being pulled excessively when the arm is moved. It's a small difference, but it becomes very important when you wear it for a long time.
Please take a look there too.
Yuu Araki
round neck vest
material_wool 55%.linen 45%
button_brass
size_1
This is a vest that will finally be the first development in our store.
The world's only transcendent piece.
I think that the vest is quite rare among Araki Yuu's lineup.
Well, the price is the price. I don't have sleeves.
However, it's unique to Araki Yuu to do this without sleeves.
It's a relatively classical vest, and it fits well, but it's an ultra piece that will give you a completely different look once you put it on.
Coloring is like eggplant dark blue.
The fabric that looks like purple is wool linen. Cotton silk lining. Brown on the back is cotton.
The cotton on the back looks like tie-dye because it is also garment dyed like the silk shirt.
As mentioned above, this vest is made of wool, linen, silk, and cotton.
And depending on the place, even the sewing thread of the sewing thread is silk. Product dyeing it.
Some materials are dyed and some are not dyed, so this vest clearly shows which parts are dyed and which are not.
To be more specific, the areas other than wool are dyed with varying shades.
However, the concentration of cotton and the concentration of linen are also different, and the difference in concentration is created step by step.
Brown cotton and linen.
Dark pink silk.
The back is easily identifiable in persimmon tannin color, but the fabric on the front also has a dull brown weft linen peeking out from the back. Be prepared behind the purple.
The color appears and disappears depending on the light and angle, so it gives a complicated look from a very deep place.
The front comes with a large brass button hand-shaped by the designer, and the back also comes with a needle-made brass cinch back.
Nowadays, it is difficult to make needle cinches, but Araki Yuu uses needle cinches and inherits the classic style.
Well, you can't see it in the photo.
For this vest, the buttonholes are hand sewn with silk thread.
In addition, hand-stitched reinforced collars are also included in the areas where the load is applied on both sides of the pocket opening.
If you like it, it's well known, but it's unique to Araki Yuu, who continues to make clothes by hand, making clothes like 100 years ago.
The buttonhole is so beautiful that you wouldn't expect it to be hand-stitched.
However, it is much more durable than machine holes.
It's pretty strong in the genre of clothes called vest, but including the price. However, I don't think it's something you can wear multiple times, so long as you have this. I would appreciate it if you could see it like that.
Araki Yuu's vest has the power to change the appearance of styling in all seasons from spring to winter.
If you wear this over a T-shirt in the summer, it will be enough.
A vest that draws out the expression of each material through designer dyeing while using four types of materials.
It's not superficial, flat, or frivolous, and it might even have a heavy atmosphere, but I think that those who like this kind of clothes will be satisfied with the way the texture is presented. .
With this, all Araki Yuu for this spring and summer are complete, so if you like it, please take a look.